If a shop is pushing you to go all out, they aren't listening to the customer. I dont see why they wouldnt want to do a built iag block and average power levels. Its not their car, its yours, remember that!

 

For a 20G, a stock block and ARP 2000's with a good tune will work fine.

Also in Colorado here... I don't use shops aside from renting a dyno.

 

Funk e built quoted me 7k for a basic built block. Mofab really only cares about big builds because they know you will most likely have issues and it's an easy revenue stream

 

Also, who the fuck thinks RA block with half inch headstuds is ok? What shop is that?

Yea I pretty much uncovered Mofabs business strategy after trying to work with them. Constantly recommending more and more and more and more. But they do good work. And they are genuinely good dudes. But yea they are above my income levels.
I really really wanna go support funk e builts business cause they seem to target my kind of audience, the whole, "fun daily driver, but not all out" typa work. But they are like 2 hours from where I live. And that's a huge tow truck payment.

- there's a smol shop with only 2 locations very close to where I live called speedy roo performance. The guy said the type ra shorty is similar to an iag s1 so long as you put some juicier studs in.
And I said, "like what, half inch"
He didn't even laugh he just said yes. So im really having a hard time thinking I should trust this place. But im gonna keep talking to him.

Maybe he'll do an iag for me.
The thing about the type ra is.... what if Subaru is trying to get rid of all those type ra engines they made because it pissed off the entire loyal fanbase and need to get rid of them, are shops getting commissions for selling motors that will just ringland into the atmosphere?
Not to mention all the new sti's are just all gonna have these bottom ends. The point of iag is to not be factory if you're gonna spend money.

Maybe I'll just tow my car up to funk e built. I hate the weekends cause no shops are open. I haven't yet been able to talk to anybody in person. Except mofab, but I can't afford them lol

 

Also, who the fuck thinks RA block with half inch headstuds is ok? What shop is that?

 

Actually im closer to funk e than I thought. Still an hour but there's a good tow company right next to me so I guess I'll just do updates on an iag stage 1

 

I've done a few rebuilds in my life and have a pretty good idea of what they cost. I've rebuilt my motor and tried a couple different turbos and none of it is what I would consider, "expensive".

I realize you're not looking to build something fast. Hence why I've made the comments I have.

 

I agree.

I think you should do an RA shortblock with ARP2000s. you dont need 1/2 inch headstuds for a 20g. way overkill.

 

i would also take this opportunity to DIY and learn.. understanding the car could down for months, spend 1k on a honda to haul you around during the downtime.. or better, a cheap toyota pickup.

 

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

Liked, but many people do not have a suitable place to take this on. I didn't, and it was a strong reason I didn't build myself. Another was time. But by all means if you are capable and have them means, go for it. I ended up building a shop - so next time round and in the meantime we are putting a bring a WRX back to life. Then I have a Savana transmission scheduled. That's hopefully just a weekend job though - when we get to it.

 

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

Liked, but many people do not have a suitable place to take this on. I didn't, and it was a strong reason I didn't build myself. Another was time. But by all means if you are capable and have them means, go for it. I ended up building a shop - so next time round <img src="http://www.IWSTI.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> and in the meantime we are putting a bring a WRX back to life. Than I have a Savana transmission scheduled. That's hopefully just a weekend job though - when we get to it.

Yea that's my problem. My hoa would have an autistic aneurysm if I so much as changed the oil.
I actually do need a shop to do this build for me. And I have a motorcycle so I have transpo.

I appreciate everyone's input.

I don't want to go with the type ra. Just thinking about that sti makes me want to vomit.

I'm gonna get the stage 1 iag and have boost creep do the build and tune.

I'll keep everyone who's interested updated. I still wash my car every Sunday. And I've thrown away the battery cause it was junk and discharged a little. I wish I could do more

 

not a bad idea. especially for the price.

 

Be prepared for some piston slap. Whenever my forged piston motor goes, I am likely just doing the new OEM short block. A good tune can keep it alive and not make a lot of noise.

 

slap for days son

 

I hate you all lol

 

slap so bad, people think you have a diesel

 

Nooooooooo staahp lol

I haven't even got the new sb yet and I'm already thinking about checking the oil lol

 

In all seriousness, you'll get slap. Different mounts make it worse. Both Leemanfor and I have Group-N mounts and it increases noise in the cabin.

 

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

I have one of the very first IAG blocks machined in house. I'm not saying that was good or bad, but it was quiet for almost 20K Now nearing 40K when very cold, say under 20F it sounds like a diesel, but not even for a minute. Like Yamaha I might have been served as well with a stock block. My car is not what we consider high power these days.

Recently I've gained a new noise - which might be rod knock Comes and goes, only when hot at idle. I need to decide whether to pull it apart before it goes. With the WRX and Race Van (Savana) on the road we would have a spare car, though the Savana is not an Ideal commuter car for me.

 

im at 25k on my block, and I've noticed that even at warm it slaps at idle a bit.

 

Definitely following. Please keep me posted. I’m fairly new to the community and dreaming about when I start tuning. I have even went on IAG and Cosworth websites to look at small blocks for a replacement when mine eventually goes to greener pastures. This has been an interesting read and looking forward to updates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'm around 5k and it's a little noticeable when warm in the lower RPM range. My plan is to get what I can get out of this motor before likely going back to a stick block or a closed deck, with tighter clearances.

I do think the Manley drop-in pistons are undersized... I could see that after install when I could see the top of the compression ring when the piston was lower in the cylinder.

 

Have you ever helped someone from the forums do a rebuild before? Is that something that interests you?

I can't do a build in my neighborhood so I'd have to do it wherever you build your motors. It'd be nice to avoid the fees of a shop, but I wouldn't mind paying something for your help.

I can afford a shortblock right now. I just can't afford the shop labor on top.

People on this site really seem to admire your nawlidge with these kors so that's why im asking

 

My last update until im ready to actually do the build. Then once I do I'll start posting info on how it went and things to look out for.

People usually only post when their having issues, I'd like to do the opposite. I also feel this could help other people who want to avoid race car type rebuilds.

I went over to speedy roo to at least check out the shop, cause I didn't get a very good impression from Google maps. It looked like any ordinary independent shop. It turned out to be a really cool legit Subaru tuner shop, they were even having a dyno day weekend with dozens of built sti's including some rare subarus.
I ended up talking to Dave and he was pretty genuine.
We talked about the type ra swaps and how people are loving them.

Perrin inlet
Fuel stumble kit
Cobb intake
Cobb ap
Cobb 1050 inj
Cobb 3 port bcs
Spark plugs
Hks bov for the lolz
Invidia ridiculous dual tip exhaust from turbo back
Cobb 20g
Equal length headers :c <- super sad face
Secondary air block offs
Tgv deletes
Killer b oil pan upgrades
ARP2000 head studs

I'll most likely have it tuned by Boostcreep a little further upstate from me. And I'll really let them at it as many times as they need until they feel it's got a bullet proof tune. I'm also going the e85 route. But I'll most likely never buy anything from Cobb ever again. Over priced rebranded parts

And I swear to f**** g** if it blows up again im going to drive it off a cliff

See you guys in a couple months!

 

What I can help with is tuning, so if you want to look at other options, let me know. I have at least one FlexFuel customer in this thread.

 

Lemme know when you get it tuned, I work in Longmont and I'll come watch

 

Update

I'm getting rid of it. Fuck this car

Never touching another piece of shit Subaru again in my life. Cars are a waste of money
Anything with an engine is a god damn waste of money.

I'm putting this 10 grand I saved into buying my first house.

Fuck subaru

Love isn't what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

Blown ring landings and blown head gaskets and greedy ass Japanese CEOs are what make a Subaru a Subaru

Never again in my life

PEAAAAACE I'm out

 

I feel like he's holding back...

 

greed? at least subaru sells cars that you can buy voluntarily..

greed is the government confiscating your money and returning no value. there is no virtue in forced charity.

good call on the house.. do it!

#EndTheFed.

 

also, everytime i read this thread title i see NAMBLA. =/

 

Even though the OP is out, I would like to give my opinion maybe it could be useful for someone else reading this. Its important to mod a car in a manner where it last, lots of parts work great on a dyno day but what about years after that day? All engines need are the correct amount of fuel, oil, and air (there is a lot more but that is the basics) how well those parts maintain that balance will determine how long an engine will last.

For example:
-If you put a exhaust manifold on this car it will perform great but if you're not careful with choosing the right one, or putting it together the exhaust flanges could warp and cause the car to run rich which could wash out the cylinders.
-Certain silicon turbo inlets (especially perrin) work great for the first year or so but the metal inserts in the tube will become loose and cause vacuum leaks causing the car to run lean.
-Lots of aftermarket blow off valves can leak.
-External Waste Gates though provide great boost control have V-Band flanges that may leak metered exhaust causing the car to run rich.

All of those examples are common mods which can cause the candle to be burned at the other end of engine longevity.

A tuner many years ago told me a major key to engine longevity was making sure the Air Fuel Ratio remains at the desired amount for the life of the car. The challenge is making sure the parts you choose to put on your car will accommodate the AFR for the life of the motor. Including the sensors that monitor should have an ability to meter the air at its densest form or thinnest form.

Ive owned my 2005 sti for about 10 years and during those years its been.... stage 1 / 2 / an 18g / FP Green / FP red / Full Race / and two engines along with all the supporting mods. The examples I mentioned above (and many more) all happened to me through this cars mod path. The OP's mod list he suggested was a very good foundation to ensuring a long and happy motor years to come. Wether it was something to be happy with, or taking the car further years down the road. Most of those mods will still be there and be reliable along the way.

I would also like to be clear that looking back at it all with my car and the things Ive done to it. I would either leave it relativity stock and enjoy it, or go all out. There's a lot of advantages to simplifying this car with fuel and air delivery from a rotated turbo / top feed fuel setup / with a decent exhaust manifold to be had verses keeping it in stock form. And just because you do go all out it does not have to make big power it just means you choose the right parts that have a capability to make a lot of power but more importantly have the capability to be reliable years down the road. Personally the idea of a big power subaru is something I am not interested in as its still heavy 4 cylinder at the end of the day. If I wanted a fast competitive car I would shoot for a light car with a larger displacement engine than my sti.