It's just necessary for longevity really. The better you treat it, you get the rest.

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there should be a breakin procedure listed in the manual.

on a side note: keep an eye on your oil - like check it every fillup. When i got my 2012 and took it in to get its first oilchange at 3K, it had eaten thru a quart of oil (i was flogging it hard after 1K and i think most of it just burned off thru hard turns and shearing).

iz now 120K of happy miles.

 

Shit I thought this was the one topic that had actually died. There's basically two schools of thoughts, follow the factory rules until 1k like they say, or start driving it hard from day 1. There's plenty of documentation of people claiming it worked out for them doing it one way or the other, just pick one. I think the warranty coverage risk is low, but do realize if you somehow managed to blow something during that period and they see that you've been hitting 6700 rpm instead of 3000 or whatever it is...good luck.

 

I am at 4600 miles on my 18 and yet to really get on it. 5k and it going in for Mods and will be on the track shortly after.

 

I ran my 15 in hard from picking it up at the dealer with 5 km on it, then went 2+ a month or so later.

No issues at all, I even had a comp/leakdown done prior to mods and it was sweet.

Ensuring it is up to temp and always ensuring you run the best fuel and oils are the main concerns, plus showing some form of mechanical sympathy is always going to help.

I did swap out all oils in the engine at 200km and driveline at 1k km.

I run in all my new cars, bikes like this, I have never had a problem with oil consumption or any other issues with any of them.

2 years later and it's never missed a beat.

I'm curious about how the people who have high oil consumption broke there engines in?

 

I'm curious about how the people who have high oil consumption broke there engines in?

they didnt break them in lol.

these topics always make me wonder if the motors are ran at the factory, and if so under what conditions. Aka, when you dont build your own motor, are you even seating the rings?

 

Breaking a engine vs breaking in an engine don't really relate, sort of, breaking a engine is a mechanical failure caused by poor tune, poor fuel or pushing your parts past their limit, and no mechanical sympathy to a point.

Breaking IN an engine is all about mating parts, bearings, cams, and ring to bore seal, you need load to do this properly.

By load I mean boost, on and off repeatedly, and this needs to be done in the first couple of hours of operation.

I let my temps come up and slowly ramp up the boost, lots of pulls, starting low and gradually rising to full boost runs.

After a while the bearings, cams and ring to bore have been pushed into each other and found their home.

If you don't do this your parts will bed in, but, due to limiting the load they will not seal/bed correctly, and once you have worn the surfaces down there is nothing, short of new rings and a hone, that can undo it.

There is lots of real data on the who's and why's IRT this, all about metallurgy and thermodynamics and other black magic, which is always a good read.

This guy expains it better than me > Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

i agree with cake eater and motoman.. you need load to seat all the things.. this doesnt mean launch the car at every light, but ease into boost in high gears after the oil is at temp.

 

That part

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I believe in breaking in an engine... I just don't believe that involves driving it like my grandma.

 

We have no idea what Subaru actually does to the motor before we get the car, but it's likely been run in to some point.

It is a fact that a motor needs to be run with higher cylinder pressure to seat the rings but on today's variable valve timing engines this may not require high RPMs. It is likely the ring seating is done at the factory.

We're also totally guessing about why they say to keep rpms <4000 for the first 1k miles.

Personally, if I build a motor it's getting a hard break-in. I've had good success with this with many motors. For a new car there's too much guess work involved to actually have a valid opinion imo. You can guess but that's all it is, a wild-assed-guess with little to no basis in fact.

 

Not sure why some people choose not to follow what the manual says for breaking it in. I mean, it doesn't hurt it any to follow it so why not just do it? You have the whole life of the car drive it like you stole it after its done anyway.

And the whole "engine is run at the factory" thing is a different situation -- like it was said earlier, no load vs with load is totally different on an engine.

 

Some of us want more pressure behind the rings to seat them better than you would by driving like a grandma.

 

I get the seating in thing, but isn't it better to ease into seating it instead of shocking it into submission? Otherwise, why would they even bother to list a break-in procedure if its so unnecessary?

 

Everything is probably seated within the first 50 miles anyways.

 

Nobody said anything about "shocking" anything.

Why would Subaru still give shit tunes? Why do they still use an inefficient engine? There are a lot of "why" questions with OEM's.

 

Because following the procedure is easing into it. So logic tells me not following it is shocking it. The break-in procedure isn't exactly "driving like a grandma" either. You can go as fast as you want... just not race the engine or go past 4K all the time. You can get to whatever speed without holding up traffic while keeping it under 4k rpm. I did on my old WRX and on this STI.

All those other things you listed are totally separate things. Just because there are things people don't like about what they do, doesn't mean all things they say is moot. They engineered the engine so I doubt they list it just for fun... that's all I'm saying.

 

You do your thing... I'll continue to load the rings based on my understanding of how engines work.

 

Aircraft engine manufacturers spell it out in easy to understand terms:

Hard Facts About Engine Break-In | lycoming.com

They also go over glazing, which is good to know if you ever start an engine from brand-new.

However, we still don't know what Subaru does at the factory, the engines may be run and loaded on an engine dyno before being dropped into the chassis. I'd bet they are.

Also, with a modern engine and especially a turbo you may see greater cylinder pressures at low to moderate engine rpms. These aren't big V8s with a lot of valve overlap. So, it may be possible to do a "hard" break-in under 4k rpms and there may be other reasons than piston ring seating that account for the <4k rpm guidelines.