Looking for something that will increase top end power and low end torque?
I've honestly always overlooked the 20g for the dom1.5. What you're describing sounds like what I'm looking for. You're on the stock block still yea?
Uhhhh...YYZ's engine: Who are you talking to right now? Who is it you think you see? Do you know how much whp I make? I mean, even if I told you, you wouldn't believe it. Do you know what would happen if I suddenly decided to stop rotating? A rod big enough that it could be listed on the NASDAQ goes straight through my block. Disappears! It ceases to exist without me. No, you clearly don't know who you're talking to, so let me clue you in. I am not in danger. I am the danger. Some other guy goes WOT and gets some FBK and you think that can't happen to me? No. I am the one who knocks!
<apologies, I have vacation starting tomorrow and am getting giddy>
I'm running DP, opensource tune, stock everything else and I'm only (estimated) at about 265/275).. but that's an edyno estimate, haven't been able to get to a dyno yet300whp is a downpipe and a good tune.
Okay sure.There is a correction factor in there. You're not doing an un-corrected 320whp on the stock turbo at that elevation.
a gtx3071r compressor almost perfectly matches the volumetric efficiency of our stock heads up to about 28psi @ 5800rpm. imo stock location, apt gtx3071r is perfect and is more than enough to max out your block. many videos out there of cars tuned w the 3071 or 3076... all running nice, safe, low boost and making good power w quick spool. 16-17psi @ 375 whp give or takeReason im looking for different turbo is because i dont want stock turbo to turn into blow dryer, can somebody tell the max efficient boost for stock vf48?
I think you should just do some basic bolt ons and get a a proper tune before you start thinking about any turbo upgrades.Reason im looking for different turbo is because i dont want stock turbo to turn into blow dryer, can somebody tell the max efficient boost for stock vf48?
OP, this is solid advice for you.I think you should just do some basic bolt ons and get a a proper tune before you start thinking about any turbo upgrades.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/power-bragging/Off-topic, my apologies... Just couldn't justify creating anew thread for this:
Is there a thread where users list their mods/mileage? I am having an inner struggle about whether to modify my '15 STI or not since I have the 100k bumper-to-bumper powertrain warranty and I am realllly worried about ringland or rod failure.
If I were to modify, it would be: Cobb AP, Cobb SF intake, Church Protune. I assume you can always ask for a super-conservative, reliable, safe tune... no?
Why are you worrying if you have 100k warranty?Off-topic, my apologies... Just couldn't justify creating anew thread for this:
Is there a thread where users list their mods/mileage? I am having an inner struggle about whether to modify my '15 STI or not since I have the 100k bumper-to-bumper powertrain warranty and I am realllly worried about ringland or rod failure.
If I were to modify, it would be: Cobb AP, Cobb SF intake, Church Protune. I assume you can always ask for a super-conservative, reliable, safe tune... no?
double checked my notes and ive got 5900, not 5800. I used this number in my VE calculations because this is basically the point at whick our stock heads, at a constant intake pressure, stop increasing in flow. there is no increase in airflow anywhere above about 5900rpm (+\- 100) hence no reason to be reving any higher and not shifting.Why give us 28psi@5800?
Why not what it will do at 7K where stock redline is?
Both might be better
Seems you are implying you can't run 28PSI higher - not that I do or don't want to run 28psi.
Why give us 28psi@5800?
Why not what it will do at 7K where stock redline is?
Both might be better
Seems you are implying you can't run 28PSI higher - not that I do or don't want to run 28psi.
Ok, so you are at maximum power and it wont go higher. That's not a reason to shift though because you lower it shifting early, and you loose time doing it, and force more early shifts down the road.double checked my notes and ive got 5900, not 5800. I used this number in my VE calculations because this is basically the point at whick our stock heads, at a constant intake pressure, stop increasing in flow. there is no increase in airflow anywhere above about 5900rpm (+\- 100) hence no reason to be reving any higher and not shifting.
Again, seems to me, max power is max power, and most of us with significant turbo upgrades run less boost and app constant power out to redline. It also seems to me you are pushing your build - and you would benefit having built heads.proof of this can be found on any datalog that includes calculated load, MAP pressure and throttle position.
calculated load = MAF (g/sec) x RPM
at constant manifold pressure (max boost) and WOT, calculated load levels off and stops increasing right around 5900RPM. this can also be seen in most dyno charts as the point of max HP.
the VE for our stock heads is almost dead nuts down the center of max effeciency on the map for the gtx3071r... and right around 28psi is where efficency starts dropping significantly
you could quite possibly be correctOk, so you are at maximum power and it wont go higher. That's not a reason to shift though because you lower it shifting early, and you loose time doing it, and force more early shifts down the road