[m3atwad]

Hello,

I'm looking for any advice regarding my rear passenger side rotor which is stuck due to a stupid mistake I made. I was working on pulling the rotors and forgot the parking brake was on when I got the the first rear rotor (passenger side rear). I tried to get it off without realizing the parking brake was on.

Once I realized, I released the parking brake but I guess it was too late. The rotor is stuck on and for the life of me I can't get it off. I've tried the following:
1. Set and release the parking brake multiple times to get it to free up.
2. I tried removing the dust boot rubber plug on the back side of the hub/wheel and using a screw driver to rotate the wheel with teeth on it as I read that can help release a stuck parking brake. This didn't help at all either and the wheel also seems to be pretty seized up.
3. Pounded the rotor (they are being re-used) with a hammer from the back side to try to hammer it out. This didn't work, but the rotor does move out towards the end of the lug bolts it just doesn't go far enough to come out. It also doesn't hammer out evenly because there is only one section open from the back side to hammer the rotor.

I also noticed it looked like the parking brake drum pad that presses out against the inside of the rotor is stuck and also comes out when I hammer the rotor. I can't see a lot but it does look like this is happening.

So right now I'm stuck and in need of any advice as to what to do next. If anyone has any helpful advice it would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[Jay11STI]

The star wheel inside can go both directions. Forward or reverse, one will force the shoes to expand and press against the inner hats of the rotor while the other direction will release. Just so you know, whatever direction it works on 1 of the rear wheels, its then the opposite direction on the other wheel. So if you are tightening on 1 side going a certain way, then its the opposite for the other wheel when doing it.So its possible you may be going the wrong way when adjusting the start wheel causing the shoes to tighten and apply pressure on the inner hats of the rotor. Try spraying some brake clean in there and going in the reverse direction.

Also, some rotors have small holes in them for the purpose of inserting bolts that can be threaded in to push against the flange to get the rotor off.

If all else fails....just hit it with your purse.

 

[Jedi03]

I would hammer the shoulder that the wheel sits on to get the rotor back on...that should allow the ebrake shoes to return to their normal position an allow the rotor to come off. If the pins that hold the pads to the back plate came loose then it's going to be alot of work to pry, hammer, etc to get it off

 

[m3atwad]

Thank you guys for the reply!

@Jay11STI I noticed there is an arrow by the hole for the star wheel. It points up so I assumed I needed to roll the star wheel up. This may be the wrong direction though if what you said is true. See below for the arrow I'm referring to.

I used a screw driver and tapped it up with a hammer so it was rolling away from me. This is the passenger side rear wheel location. I checked the other wheel location (driver side rear) which the rotor and caliper came off no problem after the e-brake was released and it seems to engage/expand the brake shoes when I roll it in the up direction though. So if they are both the same (both engage the shoes when rolling up) I have an issue, but if they are as you said I would have gone the correct direction with the passenger side rear as it would be opposite the driver side rear like you said.

Problematic wheel location:

As for hammering, I tried that too but the back cover presents a problem. How do you guys approach this? I hammered the rotor (throwing it away after it is off) pretty hard and it creeps pretty far, but since I can only hammer that one opening from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock shown above it doesn't walk out evenly and gets stuck. How do you hammer the rotor off evenly? Is there a way to get that cover off so I can hit the rotor on both sides evenly?


@Jay11STI One other question about the star wheel - is there a tool you can get to easily roll that thing? I am going to try to roll it down instead of up but can't really do that with a screw driver too well. If the passenger side wheel star wheel needs to go in the same direction as the driver side rear wheel then I indeed did go the wrong direction yesterday. To try to roll it down though I may need a tool or a better approach because I can't really angle the screw driver correctly to roll the wheel down. It won't fit angled up which is where I need it to roll the wheel in the down direction.

 

[Jay11STI]

Thank you guys for the reply!

@Jay11STI I noticed there is an arrow by the hole for the star wheel. It points up so I assumed I needed to roll the star wheel up. This may be the wrong direction though if what you said is true. See below for the arrow I'm referring to.
View attachment 76164

I used a screw driver and tapped it up with a hammer so it was rolling away from me. This is the passenger side rear wheel location. I checked the other wheel location (driver side rear) which the rotor and caliper came off no problem after the e-brake was released and it seems to engage/expand the brake shoes when I roll it in the up direction though. So if they are both the same (both engage the shoes when rolling up) I have an issue, but if they are as you said I would have gone the correct direction with the passenger side rear as it would be opposite the driver side rear like you said.

Problematic wheel location:
View attachment 76165


As for hammering, I tried that too but the back cover presents a problem. How do you guys approach this? I hammered the rotor (throwing it away after it is off) pretty hard and it creeps pretty far, but since I can only hammer that one opening from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock shown above it doesn't walk out evenly and gets stuck. How do you hammer the rotor off evenly? Is there a way to get that cover off so I can hit the rotor on both sides evenly?


@Jay11STI One other question about the star wheel - is there a tool you can get to easily roll that thing? I am going to try to roll it down instead of up but can't really do that with a screw driver too well. If the passenger side wheel star wheel needs to go in the same direction as the driver side rear wheel then I indeed did go the wrong direction yesterday. To try to roll it down though I may need a tool or a better approach because I can't really angle the screw driver correctly to roll the wheel down. It won't fit angled up which is where I need it to roll the wheel in the down direction.

Im not sure what that hole you have pitctured is about. On my 2011, the star wheel is accessible through the front of the rotor. There is a large covered hole in the rotor hat that allows visible access. I usually use a long thin flat headed screwdriver to adjust the star wheel. You should not need to use a hammer on the screwdriver in order to move the wheel. If you are using a hammer on the wheel then there is something wrong. I would first suggest you try to get the rotor back to its original position and then try to adjust the star wheel in the opposite direction in order to get the shoes to release. You will know its released since you should be able to move the assembly by hand with some effort. If the parking brake shoes where engaguged then you would not be able to move the assembly by hand.

Just so you know, once you do get this all off and put back together, you're going to have to adjust the parking brake via the star wheel on both sides since you've already messed with it.

 

[m3atwad]

OK I'll give that a shot. Maybe the rotor wasn't set all the way back.

The hole in the pick is the port that gives me access to the star wheel. This is an 05 sti so I guess they just put them on the back side.

 

[BootsJunkie]

Goes to show how long I've worked on my '05; I could've sworn the parking brake access hole was thru the front of the rotor as well. FSM shows it's thru the rear dust shield.

Don't be surprised that since the rotor is getting this bound up coming off, that it destroys the parking brake shoes and/or the hardware that holds the shoes onto the hub. Ask me how I know.

You should only need to completely loosen the star wheel adjuster, then thread two M6 bolts into the brake hub to pull the rotor off.

 

[m3atwad]

So I finally got it out. Turns out @Jay11STI was correct and that star wheel wasn't stuck. I eventually got a good angle with a screw driver and spun it all the way to retract the brake shoes. I will post some more details, but for anyone in this situation you DO NOT spin the star wheel in the direction of the arrow on the back of the dust cover. To retract the brake shoes (on the passenger rear at least) you spin the star wheel down. Towards you not up. This was one of the things that messed me up.

I did however brake a pin and spring off so my shoe is messed up. I'm hoping I can just buy a new pin and spring and restraint clip and insert it in the hole this one came out of. See pics below (the hole at ~ 3-4 o'clock):

Now that I've gotten all this off, as most old STI owners run into, I have stripped caliper mounting bolt holes in my calipers. After fixing my drum brake for the E-brake I now have to find the correct time-cert kit and inserts to fix them.

The take-away here for rotor replacement:
1. Don't be surprised if your calipers need threads and expect that taking them off is the hardest part of the job (seemed to be the case for me).
2. Make sure to release the parking break as soon as you get the car on stands so you don't forget like I did
3. Have some bungee cord assemblies with hooks to hold you brake lines once they are disconnected from the calipers or by some kind of plug
4. If you have an impact wrench or hammer it seems to break the calipers loose quite well when you are ready to pull them off
5. Have some bolts ready to force the calipers off if needed.
6. I would highly recommend getting an impact wrench - hugely helpful in my experience


Now wish me luck with the calipers :/

 

[Jay11STI]

Im glad you finally got it off. Yeah the whole stripping the caliper is a thing. It happens on a majority of the sti's. I would recommend you try to tap the threads in the caliper and see if it will hold. If not then I would suggest a time cert. Either way, I would recommend you replace the bolts for the calipers with brand new ones. From my personal experience, id suggest putting some anti seize on the threads of bolts so this doesn't happen again the next time.

 

[m3atwad]

Thanks for the tips Jay, this is now my current project. I was on the fence about ordering new bolts. I ordered two pairs since some looked bad but they are so cheap I mine as well replace them all.

I also have to see if I can order that little spring, pin and cap for the parking brake drum brakes. I "think" after that I should be in good shape. I did notice some of the rubber spacers that old the brake lines are worn out too so I'll probably replace those as well. I assume they will be cheap. I guess I also have to do the brake fluid since a lot leaked out.

On the brake fluid note, do people generally just flush the whole system to replace it with new brake fluid? I assume this is the approach you want to do rather than having half new half old fluid?

 

[m3atwad]

Also, do you know if the caliper bolts are fine or coarse threads? I assume they are fine for increased strength but I didn't see it on any of the Subaru info when I ordered the first 4 bolts. I just saw they were M12x54 (for the front for example) PN: 901120131.

 

[Jay11STI]

Thanks for the tips Jay, this is now my current project. I was on the fence about ordering new bolts. I ordered two pairs since some looked bad but they are so cheap I mine as well replace them all.

I also have to see if I can order that little spring, pin and cap for the parking brake drum brakes. I "think" after that I should be in good shape. I did notice some of the rubber spacers that old the brake lines are worn out too so I'll probably replace those as well. I assume they will be cheap. I guess I also have to do the brake fluid since a lot leaked out.

On the brake fluid note, do people generally just flush the whole system to replace it with new brake fluid? I assume this is the approach you want to do rather than having half new half old fluid?

I havent had to replace shoes or springs on my sti however I have done it on other cars. Dont let those springs fool you, they're tough to get on correctly. From my experiences, it will take a couple of tries with some struggle. Just remember after you replace all that stuff, you're going to have to adjust the parking brake via the star wheel. Let me know when you're ready.

As for the brake fluid, i mean if you are opening up the brake system in terms of lines or whatever, then yes you do should a brake flush to get all the air out of the system. Getting yourself a pressure bleeder like a mightyvac or something similar would be a good idea. Even in general, when I do a brake flush, I keep the bleeder screw open until clean fluid comes out. Thats for each caliper btw.

Also, do you know if the caliper bolts are fine or coarse threads? I assume they are fine for increased strength but I didn't see it on any of the Subaru info when I ordered the first 4 bolts. I just saw they were M12x54 (for the front for example) PN: 901120131.

Not sure of what kind of thread they are. From what I remember, I think the front caliper bolts were something like 12 x 1.5 thread pitch if I remember correctly. I cant remember what the actual length was. Either way if you have new ones coming form subaru then you should be fine.

 

[m3atwad]

Thanks Jay, I will look for a pressure bleeder and when I get these calipers drilled and back on I'll report back with details on this effort so it might help out someone else. Appreciate all the support!