What exactly are you getting tuned for? If it's just a stage one tune I say it's not really worth the money for pro tune and dyno time. Yes, most tuners generally tune through an Accessport. Again, if it's just a stage 1 tune, just buy the AP and do that, then go later on for a more worthwhile protune. Just my .02

 

I agree with the idea that a stage 1 tune is not worth it, IF you are going to go stage 2 shortly after. Otherwise a stock car, or a stage 1 car can both benefit from a pro-tune.

 

Your first two ideas are a good start. Another thing to think about is a boost leak test to fix any leaks. Also, I am assuming you have mods on your car now, and may be driving un-tuned? I would definitely take things easy until you get tuned if this is the case.

You wont need a cobb AP to get tuned. They can tune the car via Open source tuning, or using the Cobb pro software. Neither of which require you to own an AP. If you do get a cobb pro tune, be sure to get a copy of the tune for your use down the road. That way if you do ever get a cobb, youll have a copy of your pro tune just in case.

 

As far as I know, you will need any AP for anything AP. The PRO software is mostly just regular ATR with a few other caveats, but should require an AP to be married to the car.

 

These are all questions you should be asking them, not us. They will tell you what you need and what engine managements they prefer. They will probably want to do the compression test themselves before they are willing to tune it, but you need to ask them.

Change your oil and get a full tank of gas. Everything else they can tell you.

 

Have the tuner do the plugs and comp test. Just cheaper, easier and quicker that way.

I agree with OMG, only do it if you going stage 2 or higher. Again i agree with ENDR, while they are working on the car have them do a smoke test for leaks. If they can you might as well have them do a leakdown test. Some shops have the equipment some don't. Just another piece of mind and assurance that your car is A OK.

I know my local tuner will NOT tune it until they do a comp test so they don't waste your time or theirs.

This is a quote from the tuner local to me:

"There are a few things to consider that could help maximize your performance on the dyno. A 3port boost controller and a fresh set of 1 step colder spark plugs will ensure optimal performance with the current modifications on the car. Spark plugs can make a drastic difference if they are old and have a worn gap. It could be the difference of being able to push 17psi to being able to push 20psi which would essentially equate to 30+ ft/lbs of torque in the midrange. Also with the extra power you will benefit with the 1 step colder as it is putting us just one extra step away from detonation."

They did tell me that having a catless DP and/or a intake really won't make bukus of a difference and not worth buying if you already have a good DP and the stock intake.

As stated above email/call them and ask all questions because EVERY tuner is different and each has their set items to maximize THEIR tuning process.

As for an extra car, you could take 2 so you don't have to hang around or call someone local and go mess around. However I suggest, if they will let you, hang around and observe what they are doing. It's not just to keep an eye on your car, but you could learn some things you didn't know. If you're like a lot us, your not only protective of your car but love learning about it and watching the events unfold.

 

If you're like a lot us, your not only protective of your car but love learning about it and watching the events unfold.

Yes I love learning more and more about my car!

 

*an AP

Blocked from editing at work.

 

300whp on stage 1?

 

yeah i didn't think it was possible either... I will add a caveat to that though. The power level is based on uploading a data log to VirtualDyno. From what I've heard its pretty accurate, but obviously it could be off a little. But considering my exhaust is completely OEM, i still think thats fairly remarkable.

 

It's fairly accurate on a flat road if everything is input correctly, but I wouldn't read into the 300whp reading on a stage 1 tune.

 

The pulls we logged were on the highway, and it was pretty flat. After he uploaded the log he put in the couple variables it needed with me sitting next to him, and it all sounded right. Not sure where he couldve gone wrong... He did say that the car seemed to pull harder than some others he had tuned at the "stage 1" level.

I doubt my fuel pump (which he thought was aftermarket since I can hear it prime) or my intake (with box and bumper snorkel) could possibly make that much more difference from any other stage 1.

I know it does sound absurd to have that much power with so little mods... FWIW he was able to max out the injectors pretty quickly (85%).

EDIT: Oh and I have a 3-port ECBS

 

85% isn't maxed. Put it on a dyno(jet) and watch that number fall.

 

85% so the injectors dont get burnt up... Supposedly anything upwards of 90% can ruin them.

and I get the whole different numbers via different dynos thing. 300 is just the number from VirtualDyno and I dont have any other numbers to compare that with.

 

There is an option of what type of dyno you want to replicate on the VD. I suggested the higher reading dyno to watch the number fall.

For sustained use (track: 20+ minutes of WOT), 80% is generally the target to keep the injectors cool. For a street car that sees that high IDC relatively irregulalry, you can run them up past 100%. If you're not hitting ~100%, you're not near 300whp.

When I actually max injectors out on a car, the mixture leans as it cannot support any more fuel than static.

 

So can VD simulate power based on more than one type of Dyno? I don't have the program myself so I'm not familiar with it.

The 80% sustainted use is the target he tuned for. He tunes a lot of track cars and so thats his normal thing. However I didnt realize that you could ~safely run them up past that on a street car.

I knew 300whp sounded high...

 

Also keep in mind that the side feed STi injectors are smaller than the top feed STi injectors. What I posted above is in direct relation to what I see with the 565cc top feed injectors.

 

http://www.virtualdyno.net/


I run my STi up to the low 90's on ID1000's, 50 PSI base pressure, and a 450 lph pump (it's moving some fuel). It is a street car and I'm perfectly comfortable with this. Honestly, I'd be fine with this on track too...

For my S2000, which was primarily purchase for track, I have STi dark blue top feed injectors on a stock fuel system with E85. I just hit past 70%.

 

gotcha. I'm going to try to get a hold of the data log that my tuner used and see what outputs I get with various dyno settings... and perhaps find out which one he used as well in the process. hopefully that will give me a better idea of what I've actually got.

 

Who tuned the car?

 

TurboTime in Cary, NC

other than the whole VD being set up wrong (potentially), they did a great job :tup:

 

^ You cannot make that assessment based of his IDC's and yours not knowing anything else.

 

11:1 on these cars isn't really "a bit rich". It's the right kind of rich on gas and wanting to be safe.

 

Yeah, I figured going between 11.03 and 11.14 wasn't horribly rich, just more rich than the AFR's on a lot of protunes I've read and heard about, which from what I've seen sit between 11.3 and 11.5. I've had cars that would have noticeable build up on the exhaust pipes in a week or two. This one is not doing that, so I knew it wasn't ridiculously rich.

 

Should I just get a new V3 COBB AP and get a stage 2 91 octane OTC map for the car?

 

You're going to be hard pressed to find a "pro tuned" Subaru running gas at 11.3-11.5:1. Once you start getting over 11.3" gas, these cars start loosing power and you'll feel it.

Gas-referenced 11.5 - 12:1 is acceptable for E85.