Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

History

The STI is my first car

I flew down to LA on 07/21/2007 to buy it new from the Subaru dealership in Thousand Oaks. They picked me up from the airport and after signing papers at the dealership I drove the car 400miles back to norcal basically learning how to drive stick on the way home :lol:

Stock



Setup1
Maddad downpipe
cobb stage 2


Setup2
APS 3" TBE
APS 65mm CAI
Hallman MBC
walbro
protuned by Ed of EQ Tuning


dec 2007 first and last group drive


ouch!

01/27/2008 STI makes its first and only trip to the snow


RPF1s painted black


Setup3
Helix catless DP
APS 3" catback
APS TMIC
APS 65mm CAI
Grimmspeed uppipe
Grimmspeed crosspipe
crucial P&P&C manifolds
Hallman MBC
DW 740cc injectors
walbro
protuned by Ed of EQ Tuning

July 2008 Engine blows, 2 cracked pistons

car is repaired under warranty by dealer. Dealer just drops in 4 new pistons

april 2008 nasty parking lot door ding :crying:


Halloween 2008 accident

lady runs stop sign and hits me in the rear wheel area while I'm making a left turn. I get out and start yelling at her. He says she didn't see my blinker. I turn around and point to my still blinking turn signal :lol: Her fault and covered by her insurance. $3000 worth of damage. A month later we discovered that my tarmac II damper is cracked from the accident and leaking. Another grand worth of damage covered by insurance (don't ask how one bare damper without any springs or perches costs a grand )

November 2008 photoshoot in parents new garage


March 2009
Setup4
+dom3 turbo 2.4" IWG
+APS inlet
+TGV deletes
+Injectordynamics.com bosch 1000cc top feed injectors

dom3's IWG is worthless, overboosts and creeps even after wastegate arm is adjusted

April 2009
Setup5
+AMR Big MAF CAI intake
+KAS EL headers + 3 bolt uppipe modified for EWG by Covert Performance
+Tial 38mm v-band wastegate


Setup6
+E85 :banana:


05/02/2009 norcal BBQ


05/05/2009 Infineon track day


Setup7
+track fuel system


needed more fuel for E85 so I picked up this fuel system so that I could up the pressure for more flow

(same as airboy dyno)


engine blows again
07/17/2009 compression check reads 145, 130, 130, 70


08/07/2009 jagstyle finally creates a journal

stay tuned for Setup8
+RAW street series shortblock
+Supertech standard size innconel exhaust valves, stainless intake valves, dual springs
+AMS GT3076 V-band rotated kit
+perrin EL headers

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

engine pull

waiting for engine picker to arrive


engine is picked


engine stand


I was already sick of the fitment issues with the larger stock location turbo (turbo wants to hit tgv housing, crankcase barb and throttle body connector) but this is what pushed me over the edge to get rid of the dom3 setup...

discovered cracked and leaking dom3 turbo, only a few months old


discovered cracked uppipe weld (where uppipe was modified by covert performance for EWG)


many broken tools later, two cam gear bolts are stripped :banghead: so I was only able to get one head off...

holy sludge I thought E85 was supposed to steam clean the engine :lol:



I took the longblock to THE SUBARU Specialists - LIC Motorsports. so they could break free the remaining cam gear bolts and take car of my head job (wash, resurface, 3-angle valve job, install new valvetrain, set tolerances). In order to remove the stripped cam gear bolts they had to weld on a huge 19mm strut bolt . Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of the longblock in the back of the prius before dropping it off at the shop :lol:

how she sits now


what a mess :lol:

some more shots

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

stockpiled



teflon fuel return line to cut down on fuel smell in the cabin
cosworth timing belt guide
arp headstuds
group-n lateral link bushings
gates timing belt
oem headgaskets
ptp turbo blanket
3/4" many-ply silicone hose for crankcase barb (originally purchased with dom3 in mind as my dom3 was hitting and cutting my rubber heater hose)
group-n tophat top-perch adapter plates for coilovers
Prosport EGT gauge
RAW street series shortblock
replacement rear tarmac II damper

not pictured:
Brian Crower valves, springs and retainers because they are currently at the machine shop being installed in my heads


ordered

AMS Subaru Rotated Mount GT3076R V-Band Turbo kit



Perrin WRX and STI 02-08+ Equal Length Header System

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

stripping ugly APS TMIC

I bought the APS TMIC used. It was supposed to have extremely few miles on it so I was stupid and bought it on an impulse without asking for pictures. It arrived looking like sh*t; all sorts of bent fins, scratches everywhere, black smudges on the face where the rubber seal had burned in or something, powder coating chipping off, etc. I also can't stand the huge APS logo on there :tdown:

before:


so now I am striping it to bare metal and will either leave it bare or paint it stealth black:

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

git 'r done!

good luck with the build man!


J.

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Sick! I didn't realize you already purchased the AMS kit.

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

sweet build!!!

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

sounds like a nice build...

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Built block, 3076r, top mount. Looks a lot like what I would like to do. Eager to see updates on this one!

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Jag, how are you going to fix the fins on your TMIC?

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Hey dude, this time get an oil cooler and air/oil separator..definitely will be worth the money and will keep this block alive longer(not your fault, imho it's subaru's; but that's another story)

get an egt gauge if you don't have one too.

imho, replace old fasteners too...flywheel bolts too!

All the best dude, Carmi

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Brian Crower valves rejected, going with Supertech instead

So the machine shop rejected my Brian Crower valves. They said they are 2 thousandths off (too big) and absolute crap. So I'm going with supertech instead and I'll upgrade to inconnel exhaust valves and get dual springs.

edit: got more details and it is the diameter of the valve stems that is the issue

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

group n lateral link bushings

Removing the stock bushing is a piece of cake:



painting


white


pressing in the group-n bushings is a huge PITA





Replacement tarmac II damper for rear passenger side

Reason for replaement:
The other side (rear driver side) was hit in an accident last Halloween and the damper cracked at the strut welds and was replaced with a new version (new version has extra oil reservoir). I bought these coilovers used and had issues with ride quality in general and strange sounds coming from the rear passenger side. I was expecting the noise to be fixed when I sent the coilovers to be inspected and refreshed with new oil and seals but it wasn't so I finally decided to replace it and now both sides will match.


extra oil capacity


top is different, I'm going to need some extra washers


washing and adjusting settings


different tags, does the new one have the correct RCE valving?


random, always wondered why the bumpstop skirt doesn't fit through the spring separator


I've got an extra rear damper now. If anyone hits a curb let me know...




group n tophat top perch adapter plate

old


new


reason for replacement, old style has cracked

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

group n lateral link bushings

Removing the stock bushing is a piece of cake:



painting


white


pressing in the group-n bushings is a huge PITA





Replacement tarmac II damper for rear passenger side

Reason for replaement:
The other side (rear driver side) was hit in an accident last Halloween and the damper cracked at the strut welds and was replaced with a new version (new version has extra oil reservoir). I bought these coilovers used and had issues with ride quality in general and strange sounds coming from the rear passenger side. I was expecting the noise to be fixed when I sent the coilovers to be inspected and refreshed with new oil and seals but it wasn't so I finally decided to replace it and now both sides will match.


extra oil capacity


top is different, I'm going to need some extra washers


washing and adjusting settings


different tags, does the new one have the correct RCE valving?


random, always wondered why the bumpstop skirt doesn't fit through the spring separator


I've got an extra rear damper now. If anyone hits a curb let me know...




group n tophat top perch adapter plate

old


new


reason for replacement, old style has cracked

Hey, I'm looking to do my lateral links soon with Group-N bushings. I happen to have the same clamp/press as you (orange one), however I don't have the receive end. (what the bushing falls into)

Any idea where I could pick one up? I'm gonna try AutoZone perhaps. I think it's just a simple ball joint receiver?

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Busy man, and every build is looking to be more quality minded. I will be interested to see how the airfilter sits inside the fender with the AMS's intake on their rotated kit, please take few pics with he bumper off when you do, thanks in advance.

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Busy man, and every build is looking to be more quality minded. I will be interested to see how the airfilter sits inside the fender with the AMS's intake on their rotated kit, please take few pics with he bumper off when you do, thanks in advance.

Will do, I plan to take lots of pictures of the install

I ordered the kit last Thursday or Friday and they said the lead time was around a week so maybe by Friday I'll have a tracking number. That would be great and then hopefully we can start installing it all the weekend of the 22nd

This weekend I should have the heads back and we'll start installing everything onto the new shortblock

We also want to crack the case on the old shortblock and get some pictures of the damage

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

gasket kit

picked up a bunch of gaskets and miscellaneous stuff from LIC motorsports today. I love those guys, they always have every little OEM part in stock



13270AA190 Gasket Rocker (STi)
13272AA140 Gasket Rocker (STi)
13293AA051 Valve Cover Gaskets (Spark Plug)
10991AA001 O-Ring (Oil Pump)
806917080 O-Ring (Oil Pick-up)
806742160 Cam Seal Intake (STi)
806732160 Cam Seal IN/EX (WRX/STi)
21370KA001 Oil Cooler Gasket
806933010 Coolant Crossover O-Ring
21114AA051 Water Pump Gasket
13199AA000 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt, each.
13199AA010 Camshaft Sproket Bolt, each.
NGK- LFR7AIX NGK Spark Plugs (STi, 1 Step Colder)
14038AA000 Exhaust Gasket (Header to Block, TURBO)
RPS clutch alignment tool

still need:
header->uppipe gasket
power steering fluid (had AMS include a braided AN power steering line with the turbo kit)

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

heads return from machine shop



The heads are back from the machine shop with supertech valvetrain installed. The block will be assembled this weekend

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Why did you switch from the KAS manifold to the perrin?

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Why did you switch from the KAS manifold to the perrin?

It's a three bolt and the AMS turbo kit comes with a new two bolt uppipe

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

group n lateral link bushings take 2



My POS made in china pony c-clamp bent after pressing in just two bushings, so I picked up this beast today and finished pressing in the other six bushings. Made in USA ftw!



The car is still sitting on jackstands so I'm hoping to finish up the suspension stuff tomorrow (Saturday) and then engine assembly on Sunday with my buddy RAPTR

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

white manifold, black rails, links installed, headers arrive

intake manifold goes white


rails go black


links are installed


perrin header has arrived


Headers are 3/16" smaller than the exhaust ports in the heads. Should I port the flange so there is a smooth transition?

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

perrin header has arrived


Headers are 3/16" smaller than the exhaust ports in the heads. Should I port the flange so there is a smooth transition?

Gosh took you long enough to get a journal together for this car. was much need haha

IMO about the header, I would try and send it back and go with the Gruppe-s el header. the Perrin out performs the Gruppe-s on stock turbo setups due to the smaller runner design. but when you go to bigger turbo setup the Gruppe-s bigger runners come in to play and let the exhaust flow better and pick up more hp. also I think it will save you some money haha. but hey it’s just my .02

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Yes big time, perrin's headers make so much tq and spool great on 30r and smaller turbos because the runners are so small, but i def recommend smoothing the transition by porting the flange openings

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Jag, this is what i did with my perrin header.

didn't enlarge the opening (as i was not sure how big the opening in the head was), but i smoothed out the step from the pipe to the flange.

J.

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

old block dissected, 2 cracked pistons found

#4


#2

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

heads installed using arp headstuds

dining room is prepped for engine assembly


some pics of the RAW shortblock (09 STI block with the new nitrided crank )



oh, that looks bent from shipping, good thing I can take one from the other block...


flywheel is installed before lifting block on engine stand


heads are installed with arp headstuds, torqued in three equal steps to 85 ftlbs

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Do you know the cause of youre blown motor the both times ..?
OH AND BY THE WAY VERY F***** NICE JURNAL VERY DETAILED :tup:

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

Do you know the cause of youre blown motor the both times ..?
OH AND BY THE WAY VERY F***** NICE JURNAL VERY DETAILED :tup:

Thanks!

I believe the stock motor was doomed from day one with that sh*tty factory tune combined with my abusive driving habits. I bought it down in Southern California and drove it 400 miles back home to the SF Bay Area on a summer day in 100+ degree heat doing hard 5th and 6th gear highways pulls all the way home. Basically the worst possible conditions as our cars hate those kind of high gear low rpm lugging highway pulls. I had knocking issues with every tune I tried even when testing with 96 or 100 octane in the tank (when tuned for 91). Cobb stage 1, opensource stage 1, cobb stage 2, protuned stage 2...it didn't matter, I had tons of FBKC on all of them. Then at the end of my second protune when my tuner was driving the car back home after hours of road tuning, we pull over to check under the hood and find out that the turbo->ypipe elbow had slipped loose. We didn't know when it had happened and hoped that it was after the tune so that we wouldn't be throwing things off by re-securing it. I was supposed to meet with the tuner another day to check the tune to verify everything was ok but he flaked on me several times so it never happened. Eventually I went out to smash some twisties and the motor starting showing blatant signs of failure (tons of smoke out the tailpipe and oil filler cap).

I had the dealership repair the engine under warranty. Dishonest I know as it was a heavily modified stage 2 car but I wanted to stick it to Subaru for making the 07s so crappy out of the box. I even demanded they reset the clock on my powertrain warranty and when they couldn't do that I ended up getting a 7yr 100,000 mile extended warranty instead :devil:. Anyways, the dealership just dropped in 4 new pistons. They didn't even hone the walls or split the case to check anything with the crank and bearings. I never had perfect compression numbers on that rebuilt block (or the stock one for that matter. after my first protune cylinder 4 had twice the leak of the others but was still just within spec so I couldn't do anything about it) and always had tons of blowby. I knew I was playing with fire when I turned the car into a 400+ whp corn fueled beast but I was too in love with the magical never-knock properties of E85 :lol:. I started getting careless and taking my super fuel for granted and one day I went out to teach a friend how to use AccessTuner RACE and ended up adding 2 degrees of timing and 2psi of boost pretty much blindly just for fun to test my road dyno software. Then the next evening I took my roommate and his friend out for some pulls and on the way home I thought I was in second gear but I was actually still in first and when I punched it once last time I accidentally hit the rev limit really hard causing the car to backfire extremely loud. I don't know if that actually hurt anything but soon after that I started feeling slightly down on power and noticed smoke out the tailpipe and oil filler cap again.

Hopefully I do better this time around

If you want to make some side money I'll send you my lateral links and you can press in some Grp N bushings for me with your bitc*** C-clamp .

I never want to do that again. Huge PITA. Mine turned out like sh*t anyways as they are near impossible to install back on the car since a few are ever so slightly c0ckeyed I guess. I really needed a proper press, a c-clamp isn't the right tool, but I was being cheap. I was also disappointed because when you squeeze the group-n bushings in your hand they don't really feel any different from the stockers. From all the comments I read in the howto thread I was expecting the stockers to feel like mush but they actually feel really solid. It's just another one of those over-hyped group-n mods. It's not worth the trouble. I probably did more harm than good...I wish I just bought new lateral links with pillowballs...

Is that the non-synthetic rotella? Does Ron recommend it for built motors, or is that what you found on BITOG?

Yes, it comes from ron's recommended break-in procedure:

                                        RAW PERFORMANCE
                                        FORMERLY AXIS POWER RACING

NEW SHORTBLOCK/LONGBLOCK
SUGGESTED ENGINE BREAK-IN PROCEDURE


SHORTBLOCK/LONGBLOCK ENGINE WITHOUT NEW CAMSHAFT INSTALL-
First thing, go back and double check all hose clamps, fittings, and fluid levels.  Even if you think you did it, check it again.
It is also much easier if you have a second person helping you at this point.  
Unconnect the big black and big brown multi-pin wire harness connectors.  On turbo models these are located right behind the stock battery mounting location.  On stock non-turbo cars, these are located on top of the transmission bellhousing behind the intake manifold.  
Make sure the engine is full of new non-synthetic oil(see oil suggestions below) and that the oil filter is also full of oil and hand tightened to the engine.  
Turn the key as if you are going to start the car.  You want to engage the starter for 10-15 seconds then release.  Repeat this 5 times.  
Disconnect the negative side of the battery and push the break pedal.  This will quickly reset any codes you have stored in the ecu from cranking the engine with those connectors unhooked. 
Reconnect all connectors and the battery.  You are now ready to start the engine for the first time.  
It should start pretty much right up, but if it doesn’t don’t panic.  Try to start it again.  If after 5-6 seconds of cranking time, the engine does not start, it’s not going to.  You need to go back and check everything again with the wiring and fuel system. 
Once the engine starts, you IMMEDIATELY need to look at the engine oil pressure warning light and your oil pressure gauge if you have one installed.  If the oil pressure warning light does not go out right away, turn off the car and recheck the connection to the oil pressure sensor.  It is located on the front of the engine block underneath the alternator(stock location).  If connection is fine, restart the engine.
If again the oil pressure light does not go out after 5 seconds, turn off the car.  You need to go back and recheck your work.
Once you have the engine started and you have oil pressure, you want to run it at idle for a short period of time then rev the engine to 1500rpms for 5 minutes.  Hold it steady at 1500, try not to vary the revs too much. 
Keep an eye on both water temp and oil pressure light or gauge if one is installed.  Water temp should climb slowly and rest at just below mid point on the stock gauge.   The second person should be checking for any leaks or uncommon noises coming from the engine during this time. 
After 5 minutes, if you have no leaks and everything seems good, let the car idle for a couple minutes and then shut the car off and let it cool down for 15-20 minutes.  After it has cooled some, recheck all fluid levels again and you are now ready to drive the car. 

If you are only changing out the shortblock, and all other parts remain as they were on your old engine, you need to only recheck your air/fuel ratios.  If you have changed any other parts with the new engine like ported heads, cams, turbo, injectors, intake, exhaust, ect ect, you need to be making ecu adjustments(if possible) to insure proper break-in.  If you can not make any changes, you need to source someone who can.  

First 300 miles should be driven with NO BOOST AND NO MORE THAN 4500RPMS.  You want to do as much city driving as possible, which means lots of stop and go driving.  As you are coming to a stop or slowing down, you should be downshifting and letting the engine do some of the braking work.  If you do accidentally see some boost, that’s ok but try not to use any boost if possible. 
New forged piston engines will use some oil during run-in.  You want to keep an eye on your fluid levels at all times during the break-in process.   You will typically use some oil during the break-in process.
New forged piston engines also make more noise than stock engines do, so do not be surprised to hear more sounds coming from your engine.  The sounds should be light tapping noises and start to settle as engine temp builds.  If at anytime you hear anything that sounds unusually loud or gets louder as revs increase, do not run the engine until you can deduct what the sound is.  

After 300 miles, change the oil/filter.  Take a look at your oil.  It will look dirty and probably have a swirl effect to it.  That is the moly that is contained in the assembly lube.  You should not have any metal flakes, chunks, or otherwise come out with the oil.  If you do, contact us asap and do not restart the engine.  If the oil smells like fuel, that is a good indication you are overfueling the engine and you need to do some more tuning to correct this.  If you want, you can cut apart the filter but this is up to you.  
Install new oil/filter and recheck all fluids again.  Now you can start running some boost and revving the engine higher.







Next 1200-1500 miles can be driven with boost pressures up to 10-12psi.  This is usually wastegate set pressures for most turbos and external wastegates unless otherwise altered.  Try to keep boost at no more than 10-12psi.  
For every 250 miles you drive, you can increase the engine revs by 250.  So at 550 total new miles you can now rev the engine to 4750 rpms.   You want to follow these building steps up to your desired/new engine limited redline.  I suggest you set the rev limit at 7000rpms at first.  
As with the first 300 miles, you want to keep aware of your air/fuel ratios and make adjustments as needed.

After a total of 1500-1700 new engine miles, you should change the oil/filter again and can now have the car dyno-tuned if desired.  Do not exceed any limits set for the new engine like rpms and boost.  The blocks we offer do not have a hp limit assigned to them, they only have rpm and boost limits.  You must stay within those rpm and boost limits at all times.



WARRANTY CLAIMS

We do not offer any warranty implied, expressed, or otherwise on any modified and/or aftermarket part/parts supplied by us.  Only unmodified, stock parts will be returnable for warranty and final authorization is up to the part supplier.  What we do offer is this:  if for any reason the new engine fails at any time during the break-in, we would like the engine back in the exact state it was sent to you.  So if you only purchased a shortblock, we only want the shortblock back.  And it must be assembled and returned in the same packaging it was shipped it.  Any variance of this not previously authorized by RAW Performance will be considered a modification to the engine and not returnable.  
Once we receive the engine back, we will dis-assemble the engine and try to deduct the cause of failure.  If the cause of failure is due to machining, assembly, or failure of any part installed by us, we will either repair or replace the engine at no cost.  If the failure was due to any action out of our control like improper tuning, running low on fluids, pre-existing problems or outright abuse, repair or replacement costs will be the sole responsibility of the engine owner.  



Suggested break-in oils

We like Shell Rotella T 15-40 weight for all break-in mileage.  If you are in an extremely cool climate, you will want to consider a lighter weight of oil like 10-40 or 10-30.  
You can continue to use the Shell Rotella T oil after completion of break-in if you wish.  If you do switch to full synthetic, be sure to run a quality product.  We do not recommend Mobil 1 at this time.  For some reason, Subaru engines do not fare well with Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.  The Subaru engine likes to “drink” this brand of oil. 



Spark plugs

For all WRX/STI 2.0 liter heads, we suggest NGK BKR7E plugs.  For all US STI and turbo 2.5 liter heads, we recommend you  use either NGK-LFR6A-11 or standard Subaru part NGK-ILFR6B.  Plug gaps should be set from .031”-.035”.   Spark plugs should be new at time of engine install and checked at end of break-in procedure and replace if needed.  Do not run used and/or fouled plugs.

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

So you had some RCE issues too, not sure why so many are so deluded. Sad.

Anyway, you have a great journal here and I wish you were close enough I could come see the car. You do have some crappy luck though - hope things get more reliable for you.

If you want to make some side money I'll send you my lateral links and you can press in some Grp N bushings for me with your bitc*** C-clamp .

Waiting for engine updates...

 

Re: Jag's 07 STI E85 Powered AMS Rotated GT30R Build

So you had some RCE issues too, not sure why so many are so deluded. Sad.

Join the club.

They're wrenching on the engine as we speak...