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Great job on the How To video on the Perrin Crank Pulley!! I have done the same thing on my friend's cars!!! I have the same one on my car for over 10,000 miles with zero problems/issues. It takes the bog outta 1st gear, and the revs do come up quicker than norm. I must confess, I watch these videos all the time at work, over and over again...I just love them! Great vid on the Perrin Wing Stiffys!!! 5 of them would make the STi look like the WRC one! Shouldn't litter blue painters tape on the sidewalk though :lol:. Can't wait to see the F430 video!!! :bow:
 
I come from a Honda background. The similar mod/install on B-series motors is to remove the power steering and AC so only the timing belt is being turned by the crank pulley and replace the stock pulley with the CTR crank pulley. The problem with that is the OE crank pulley was also a harmonic balancer. It had rubber injected into it to absorb some of the engine vibrations. The CTR crank pulley didn't contain injected rubber and the theory is that it doesn't aborb the vibrations and wears down the bearings quicker. Now with all that said, is this the same for the STI? If the OE crank pulley doesn't contain inject rubber, is it because it's a boxer motor and the pistons move horizontal instead of vertical? Any clarification on this would be well appreciated. Thanks
 
The Subaru boxer engine is internally ballanced and does not require a harmonic balancer to absorb excess vibration. The pully has a certain amount of mass, as does the fly wheel and that is to increase driveability because with the lighter pully and lighter flywheel, the engine spools down very quickly when you take your foot off the gas. On the highway that is rather uncomfortable and unless you have the cruise control on your speed tends to vary greatly. In city driving scenarios that is not AS noticeable but you do feel it. It does increase acceleration and performance.
 
i'm about to go install my perrin pulley and I went to watch the video but it stops everytime when ben puts the breaker bar with 22 mm socket on the pulley to take it off. So what am i sopposed to torque the pulley bolt to? like 120 ft lbs?
 
BlackedoutSTI said:
i'm about to go install my perrin pulley and I went to watch the video but it stops everytime when ben puts the breaker bar with 22 mm socket on the pulley to take it off. So what am i sopposed to torque the pulley bolt to? like 120 ft lbs?

Install the crankshaft pulley
1) Install the crankshaft pulley.
2) Install the pulley bolt.
To lock the crankshaft, use:
ST 499977300 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
WRENCH
(3) Clean the crankshaft pulley thread using an
air jet.
(4) Apply engine oil to the crankshaft pulley bolt
seat and thread.
(5) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening
torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb).
(6) Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts.
Tightening torque:
127 N·m (13 kgf-m, 94.0 ft-lb)
7) Confirm that the tightening angle of the crankshaft
pulley bolt is 45 degrees or more. If not, conduct
the following procedures (1) through (4).
 
This is the first time I have removed an engine belt and I am wondering what is the best way to tell when there is enough or too much tension when you tighten the alternator back? Its been a day since I pulled the belt off and I have a vague memory of the stock tension. I just tried to match the feel of the tension of the other belt which I have not made any changes to. Thanks for any pointers.
 
Just did the install....took 1/2 hour. The belt tension is hard to know IMHO....I pushed down on them before I removed them and could deflect them 1/4-1/2 inch. So that's where I left them....more or less....:rolleyes:
 
Tip on tension of the belts: You should be able to twist the belt only 90 degrees when it should stop twisting, that is the tension you want;).
 
now theres 2 belts there and this may sound like a dumb question but is one of those the timing belt? im trying to find out if im able to do the timing belt myself or if im better off having a shop do it? also will install the perrin pulley screw up the car if it has a protune?


kevin
 
nevermind i know none are the timing belts... is one the ac belt and the other acc belt? ill prob replace those on my own but the timing belt im prob better off having a shop do it.... was thinking about doing that crank pully but didnt wanna screw up my tune


kevin
 
As a heads up, I found out the hard way about the Woodruff key Subaru uses on the crank. It's the little piece of metal you fit into the key way on the crank pulley, make sure it doesn't move around when taking one off. Mine wasn't flush and level and now I have to go to the dealership to get it fixed so I can get my STi running again.
 
From Perrin's website:

NEWLY REDESIGNED TO MAKE INSTALLATION ON 2008+ WRX/STI MUCH EASIER!
Yes we took our classic WRX pulley and modified the rear belt keeper to make for easier installation on the new 08+ WRX and STI. For those who have not seen these, there is no AC belt tensioner anymore and you need to stretch fit the belt onto the crank pulley. This was made even more difficult with our older design. So we changed it!

Are you using the old style or the new redesign?
 
How long do you disconnect your battery for in order to reset the ECU? Considering this is going to be my first mod, do I need to get my car tuned?
Disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal for a couple seconds, then reconnect the battery. That will reset the ECU so it can learn new values since the engine is slightly different.

It does not require a tune. That said, after the crank pulley, I removed another 1.08 lbs by switching the power steering and alternator pulleys. That was enough weight loss to throw off the tune. It's like a lightweight flywheel - you can get a slightly lighter one that won't cause any issues, but there are ones that are so light that they require a tune.

You can check out my journal and mod list, which will link you to my impressions and more than I can remember off the top of my head.
 
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