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Just opened up the thread on my computer and all the photo links are working.....not sure if it is only me though...not working on my mobile device though under the mobile view.

EDIT: Here is a link to the album if the first post isn't working still

Photobucket Link
the first post doesnt have images, but the link you have here is working fine.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I want to cut the barometric sensor off to but I'm afraid I will cut it wrong. Do you just cut straight across the plastic or do you dig into the valve first?
I cut down into it with a hack saw around three of the sides and then peeled the sensor off the top of the valve...all the barometric sensors guts are in the top of the plastic so anything metal can be destroyed.
 
I see in your pics it looks like your turbo and / or uppipe is off.

Is the passenger side able to be removed without removing the up pipe, down pipe, or turbo?

My manifold is coming off for rails and I'm considering the air pump delete.
 
I tried removing the pipe without removing the turbo and was unable to do so...the block off needed the up pipe at minimum to come off...ill have to readdress it in the future when I take the turbo off...
Just so everyone knows- it is possible to get the passenger side off with uppipe and turbo on. That's about the only thing positive I have to say.

My manifold was off, which, if I had any idea what it entailed I'd have not done fuel rails. I'm sure I'll be happy when I'm done, but ....

In the process or removing that damn passenger side tube I busted the throttle body nipple on the coolant crossover pipe. Then I spent an hour putting on the new cover plate. The trick to the furthest bolt is using a short allen wrench - no ratchet or wrench. Now I know.

In the midst of it all I bumped the jack and put a nice scratch and dent in my cars door. It's been a completely shitty day. Air pump delete FTW! F*CK THE WORLD or FOR THE WIN - depends on when you ask me.

I still don't have the BPS cut out, but I don't see that being an issue. Tomorrow is new day.

Thanks OP for the write up with pics. :tup:
 
I removed mine with turbo, downpipe, and manifold still on. I used a few wobblies, and used feel vs vision on those rear pipes, where the plates go. The hardest part was removing crossover pipe. I did pop off the throttle body to get it out. You could probably cut it out... but figured TB was easier. I do have an extra BPS, I cut off... If anyone needs one.
 
What are the advantages of removing this device?


It's pure purpose is to warm up the catalytic converter in your downpipe to improve its environmental efficiency and mechanical efficency.

Those of us who moved to a catless setup no longer need the air pump.

The next point is that the air pump or it's sensors always ends up failing and causing a CEL. It's a very costly repair, so most even with a cat will end up deleting it to avoid future repair costs.

The side benefit to all of this is that removing the pump and all the ducts frees up a huge amount of space around the engine allowing better ease to work in the engine bay.

Basically, unless you're environmentally conscious or need a cat system for environmental tests for your car to be on the road, the air pump is pretty useless.
 
Has anyone installed the kstec kit that blocks the valve at the tubes? I suspect this might be easier and can be done w/o taking the intake manifold off?



2 years ago I started throwing codes, I deleted them and pulled the relays....low and behold today I find the air pump silencer full of water!! I'm guessing from condensed water vapor in the exhaust which means one of the valves is stuck open and the check valve is inoperative.



The only disadvantage I see to the blocking at the valves is that crap can still migrate up to the valve and could cause problems.
 
Just wanted to say a huge thanks for the thread and for getting the photos back online. Still didn't 100% get it until I got in there haha. Even with the intake manifold and TGVs off I had to cut the crossover pipe in order to snake it out of there. It's amazing having that real estate back. Even though the AOS cramped things up in the back, overall I still feel like I have more room.

Honestly, many of the tasks I just completed fall in the category of things I would only do if already doing one or more related tasks. Full secondary air delete, TGV delete, turbo inlet, etc. All of these things were only barely worth it to me after doing them all in one go. I don't think I'd have the patience to mess with a full secondary air delete without at LEAST having the up pipe out of the way.

I haven't seen the kits that block things off without removal. You get to discard a significant amount of crap if you do the full removal, so again while I can't recommend that all by itself, if you've considered some other things like TGV delete then I definitely support doing full removal. I had been throwing secondary air codes already, then I had a boost leak related to the TGVs, etc. so it just made sense to do it all.
 
Has anyone installed the kstec kit that blocks the valve at the tubes? I suspect this might be easier and can be done w/o taking the intake manifold off?



2 years ago I started throwing codes, I deleted them and pulled the relays....low and behold today I find the air pump silencer full of water!! I'm guessing from condensed water vapor in the exhaust which means one of the valves is stuck open and the check valve is inoperative.



The only disadvantage I see to the blocking at the valves is that crap can still migrate up to the valve and could cause problems.

I think I am going to get the block off plate set. I believe you would unplug one of the pumps and leave the sensor plugged in?

As for CEL, is there a tuner that will just disable the codes on a cobb stage 2 OTS map for cheap?
 
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