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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
08+ STi Airpump Removal:

***Without looking under the hood of a 2015 STi, I cannot say 100% that this will apply completely. The same applies for the DTC codes to delete***

Setup:

1 - To be able to accomplish the airpump removal you will need to get the front end of your car in the air on either ramps or jackstands. This is because you will need to crawl underneath the car to undo the bolts on the passenger side flange that connects to the head. You can get the driver side from above (I am 6'3") but also easily doable from under the car.

2- You are able to re-use the gaskets previously installed, I am paranoid and replace any gasket I remove (minus the BPV and throttle body).

3- The blockoff plates are available from dozens of manufacturers, many overpriced for what you get. I got black ones because I hate chrome/polished aluminum...I paid extra for that...I am that ridiculous and particular. The kits vary from just plates to plates, fasteners, and gaskets.

4 - If you plan on leaving the valves installed, KS Tech offers plates that bolt onto the solenoid valves inbetween the line and valve (i.e. failed solenoid valve)

Tools:

Ramps/Jackstands
Flashlight to see where you are trying to work
10mm socket / wrench
12mm socket / wrench
Needle nose pliers
A couple of zip ties
Ratchet with extensions (6" / 12")
Swivel socket - Not neccessary but helpful for passenger bolts

NOTES:

I was able to easily remove the passenger side line but this was due to the fact I had previously replaced my uppipe. If you are installing an aftermarket header and uppipe, this would be the prime time to disable the passenger side, even if you don't have the time to remove the rest of the system. This would be as easy as unbolting the tube from the valve to the head and installing the blockoff plate. Your car will never know and won't throw any codes, this will also allow you to accomplish the rest of the job at another time.

Codes to disable on your tune (not sure which are required but just get them all):
P0410, P0411, P0413, P0414
P0416, P0417, P0418, P1410
P1418, P2431, P2432, P2433
P2440, P2441, P2442, P2443
P2444


REMOVAL:

1 - Remove your TMIC (or FMIC piping that is near the air pump and intake manifold). If you are not sure of how to do this, the air pump delete may not be for you.:lol:

2 - These are your primary work locations




3- Unplug the wire harness from both airpump solenoids.

4- Remove the (2) bolts from the front of the airpump. I can't remember but if there is a clamp on the lower tube under the air pump remove tension and pop the front cover/chamber off of the airpump. There is a plastic fastener that will pop right off.



5 - Unplug the airpump harness. The airpump plug is located right in front of the oil fill tube.




6 - Remove the (3) bolts that secure the airpump to the bracket and loosen the hose clamp and pull off the airpump. If desired, you can remove the (2) bolts holding the aluminum bracket to the engine as well.




7 - Remove the air tubing that runs along the driver side of the engine. The plug on top can be popped out On the back is a pinch clamp and on the lower portion of the front is (1) bolt the fastens the tube to the block as well as holds the exhaust cam/AVCS wires in place. Remove the bolt, use pliers on the clamp and pull towards the radiator, it should pop out relatively easily.



I cut over the lower bracket so that I could reuse it to retain the wiring in place


8 - The last easy piece that remains is fastened to the two solenoid valves with pinch clamps. Remove in any order and snake the final hose out, you are now 75% complete.





9 - The solenoids are orientened as seen below, the driver side solenoid has a larger plug than the passenger side. The reason for this is that it contains the barometric sensor for the car. Do NOT throw out the barometric sensor...your car will run like crap and short of buying a new valve, there is no easy fix. I have seen talk of putting a resistor in but if you don't screw it up the first time...there is no issue.




10 - The easiest valve to do is the driver side, the hose is attached with (2) 12mm bolts, you can access from the top by feel or go under the car and look right at it. Don't forget to save the gasket if you are not putting new ones back in. You can remove the hose from the solenoid or remove the whole assembly. The solenoid is attached to the block/head with (2) bolts. One is on the back and one is on top of the engine. Remove these and the solenoid will come right off the car. BAROMETRIC SENSOR!!!! Install your blockoff plate with the gasket and blockoff plate.

Torque Value: 14 ft-lbs



11 - Even with an aftermarket uppipe, the passenger side flange still was a bit of a pain. It is held in place by (2) 10mm bolts, remove these and make note of the gasket orientation. The soldenoid is affixed to the block with (1) bolt. If you have the clearance, snake out the passenger solenoid and hose or you can unbolt the hose and leave it for another time.




12 - Install you blockoff plate with the gasket and blockoff plate.

Torque Value: 6.6 ft-lbs

13 - Admire your success



14 - If you remove the driver side solenoid, this is the part you need to retain.



The process for removing the sensor from the solenoid valve can be frustrating, I went the route of using a razorblade and slowly cut off the upper rectangle. There are four plastic pins going into the valve body and two wires that actuate the solenoid. These are what is holding the sensor onto the top. If you cut through the pins you can twist the wires off and then clean it all up. (I borrowed the next two photos from the web)




Once you have the barometric sensor free, plug it back into the wire harness and ziptie it out of the way.




:tup::tup:
You are now complete. I taped up all the free plugs and packed them with dielectric grease to prevent any moisture issues. Either reinstall your intercooler or finish what you were doing and enjoy no airpump mess. You will need to disable the DTC codes referenced up top to prevent any CELs.
 

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Hello,

I have a 2008 STI and am down to the point of removing the RH (passenger side) valve tubing into the head. The engine is mounted in the car and I have not been able to get either end (valve or head) off. I am not even able to get to the head side. The Subaru manual says that I should remove the intake manifold to remove this valve, but I don't see that having been done by any of the postings in the forum. Should I remove the turbo instead?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello,

I have a 2008 STI and am down to the point of removing the RH (passenger side) valve tubing into the head. The engine is mounted in the car and I have not been able to get either end (valve or head) off. I am not even able to get to the head side. The Subaru manual says that I should remove the intake manifold to remove this valve, but I don't see that having been done by any of the postings in the forum. Should I remove the turbo instead?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
You won't be able to remove the passenger side valve easily if at all with the intake on. With the stock uppipe it will be difficult to get to the bolts on the head but removing the downpipe makes it easier.

The pictures in step 8 and 9 show the passenger side valve under the intake manifold as well as with the intake manifold removed.
 

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I'll be removing my engine soon so this will be on the to do list, and it will be a piece of cake by the looks of it! One question though. On picture 13, it looks like you removed both solenoids. Do i need to keep only the driver side solenoid? And the plugs you packed with grease are the connector plugs that plug in to the solenoids, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll be removing my engine soon so this will be on the to do list, and it will be a piece of cake by the looks of it! One question though. On picture 13, it looks like you removed both solenoids. Do i need to keep only the driver side solenoid? And the plugs you packed with grease are the connector plugs that plug in to the solenoids, right?
The driver side solenoid also has the barometric sensor. You can get around keeping the solenoid on the car by removing the upper portion as depicted. I packed the connector remaining on the car wiring harness with grease and then taped it up. Did the same with the TGV connectors.
 

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The driver side solenoid also has the barometric sensor. You can get around keeping the solenoid on the car by removing the upper portion as depicted. I packed the connector remaining on the car wiring harness with grease and then taped it up. Did the same with the TGV connectors.
I get it. Leaving the sensors out in the open like that won't mess with their function? Even tied down snugly I'd imagine dirt, heat, etc. would cause some sort of problem, no?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I get it. Leaving the sensors out in the open like that won't mess with their function? Even tied down snugly I'd imagine dirt, heat, etc. would cause some sort of problem, no?
I have never seen anybody having an issue with the sensor in all my searches. heat is no different then when it is on the solenoid. I made sure mine was zip-tied facing down to minimize any sort of dirt intrusion.
 

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Thanks again CNY! Only thing Id add is instead of using a razor blade and scoring the sensor, is to get a hack saw with a good blade and cut around the sensor. I tried the razor way for about 30 mins and made little to no progress. The hack saw took me 5mins.

Other then that I dont think it would be possible to do it completely without removing the manifold/up pipe.
 

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So I'm currently doing this delete. I only need to remove the barometric sensor from the driver solenoid (Bigger connector) right? The other solenoid I can leave out and just pack it's harness connector with dielectric grease and tape it up, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I'm currently doing this delete. I only need to remove the barometric sensor from the driver solenoid (Bigger connector) right? The other solenoid I can leave out and just pack it's harness connector with dielectric grease and tape it up, right?
Correct...only the driver side solenoid has the barometric sensor.
 

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Turns out it was easier to take out that barometric sensor than I thought! I just dug out the soft gel-like area around the senor, then I took a flat-head screwdriver and hammer and broke the surrounding plastic out of the way, then a razor to dig under the sensor, and then finally the screwdriver and hammer again to give it a few taps underneath the sensor and it popped right off! Thanks for the great right up, CNY!
 

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Just as a heads up, I did the air pump delete at the same time as my headers/ up pipe. The passenger side air tube I had to cut near the throttle body to get it out from this rats nest of an engine. You'll need a dremel with a cutting wheel or similar. There was a bit of pulling and tugging involved as well to get this tube and the passenger side sensor out. You will need universal joins for your socket wrench to even attempt to get at a lot of the bolts. Really not as easy as the guide makes it sound but I'm not a professional mechanic and managed to finish. Expect to take a 3 day weekend in case you get stuck a few times like I did.
 

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I do believe the secondary air pump was allowed to keep air requirements in the exhaust and intake so it doesn't cause a vacuum on the intake system which can suck air/oil out of the crank. Can anyone confirm this?
 
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