EDIT: Toe in.

On a car set up for STOCK ride height you get a toe in every time you compress a wheel, and you get a toe in every time the suspension droops. Seems that no matter what you do the rear tires toe in (as for number of degrees - don't know. I have not had a chance to calculate it yet).

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2041841-post1.html

 

Usually toe out.

really? i didn't know this. i mean, i wouldn't think static camber would have much effect on static toe, but i don't know.

 

after thinking about this for a couple minutes, i could see how adding neg camber would give toe out. Because, for the upright to angle in at the top, since the steering arms do not move, the upright must rotate around the steering arm. Since the steering arm is at the front of the upright, the rotation would give toe out. That is just my mental picture.

 

in the rear +neg camber = toe in

 

Yeah I was speaking from my past experiences.

 

i always thought for the front suspension, adding negative static camber while not adjusting toe, will result in more toe out..

dunno about the rear

 

I am not sure if the geometry is the same from the GD to the GR chassis, but when I had IAG do my alignment for my 07, they showed me that as you increase negative camber you increase Toe OUT. I have the numbers at home if anyone is interested. The reason I wanted this checked is to see if they could do a "street alignemnt" that would allow me to slam the camber fulll negative at the track.

 

Thanks everyone. I think in the front it's toe out. This causes a dilema at the track. Right now I have the camber plates set at -1.5 front camber. For the track I will want more neg camber. I guess I'll have to get a set of toe plates.. Either that or set the car up with toe in at the street settings.

 

it depends on how much toe it changes.
a little toe out in the front is good for track use.

what if your street setup is -1.5 or -2.0 degrees of camber and 0 toe up front
then when you get to the track, max your negative camber...hopefully that will means a sliiight toe out...

then after your track day is done, set your camber plates back to where they were before...

 

it depends on how much toe it changes.
a little toe out in the front is good for track use.

what if your street setup is -1.5 or -2.0 degrees of camber and 0 toe up front
then when you get to the track, max your negative camber...hopefully that will means a sliiight toe out...

then after your track day is done, set your camber plates back to where they were before...

You beat me to it. :tup:

Dynamic toe on an AWD car has a tendency to pull in thus reducing static toe out. Keep an eye on inside vs. outside tire temps though.

 

When you add negitive camber to the front you will get toe out. To make the car quicker you will need to set the toe after a camber change.

Team Crawford

 

When you add negitive camber to the front you will get toe out. To make the car quicker you will need to set the toe after a camber change.

Team Crawford

Thanks. I have to get a set of toe plates...

 

That should work!

 

When you are making toe changes they should be in response to under or over steer. If you are going the right way then you make the car more neutral.

As a rule of thumb, toe out will make the car more twitchy… Add another 300WHP and twitchy will turn into scary!

 

When you are making toe changes they should be in response to under or over steer. If you are going the right way then you make the car more neutral.

As a rule of thumb, toe out will make the car more twitchy… Add another 300WHP and twitchy will turn into scary!

Exactly. I'm putting down around 425. I want 0 toe