[JZeezSTi]

smh...

 

[sti2relaxxin]

I understand that was a pretty rough first post but I was having some clutch issues and stumbled on this thread. Reading through it, Neanderthal, you had some great info and you where very informative. Sti2relaxxin , in my opinion, was really being a "D" bag. I really got a kick out of how he was, in the end, arguing with you and tried correcting your grammar. In reality, he couldn't even get his own grammar correct. I very rarely ever chime in on these forums. I come from a long racing history and every now and then some guy pops up with something that I just can't resist to chime in on.

I've never been a douche bag in any post I've posted on this site, so I apologize if I came off as one. Before Neanderthal edited his posts they were pretty raw and I think I held my composure pretty well.

Just out of curiosity, what is wrong with my grammar in the post you quoted? The smiley face at the end?
EDIT- "the the". Busted! No more OT posts from me.

 

[krnluve24]

Hi, I know this is an old post but will the delay valve also slow the disengagement of the clutch?

 

[trinydex]

I just did this on a 2013 STi.

I cross referenced this thread on a different forum because there's simply too much noise in this thread.

http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/11-...ch-delay-valve-removal-diy-must-rough-engage-clutches.html#/topics/22744?page=3

I followed the rough instructions of xluben in post 40.

what I have to add:


if you don't have a 24mm wrench a 15/16 inch standard wrench will do the job. break the bolt that houses the delay components she'll the slave is still on the transmission.

you can remove the guts / delay components of the "06+" slave cylinder without removing the slave cylinder from the transmission. I broke the bolt, unscrewed it tediously ( the o ring and delay components make it so you cannot hand loosen until the very end), and then fished out the spring, the orifice and the cup with dental tools.

however, you may not want to skip removing the slave cylinder if you also replace the line. replacing the line introduces too much air in the system and a typical bleed of any type will not give you a solid pedal. in order to achieve a full bleed you must bench bleed. i even tried parking on a 41% incline (steepest in the Bay Area) and vacuum bleeding and it did not give me a rock solid pedal. the first 2cm of pedal is still compressing air. note, with a 41% incline, the nipple of the bleed screw is still well below the highest point on the slave cylinder. you have to pick the car up by the tail to get this thing pointed in the right direction.

if you don't want to shop all around for the right master cylinder to slave cylinder clutch line, then an off the shelf option is the chase bay WRX / BRZ clutch line.

https://www.chasebays.com/products/...ays-clutch-line-02-07-subaru-wrx-subaru-brz-scion-fr-s-gt86?variant=33631474953

it's twice as much as piecing a kit together yourself, but I'm lazy. it's long enough, maybe even too long, but this allowed me to route the line behind the hoses in the same area. it removes all the hard lines and the factory soft line.

 

[mekineer]

Does a 2008 Subaru Impreza wagon have a CDV?