I have the parts to do this, but waiting until the motor is done first. I want to drive the car and make sure it works before I tear into something else.

 

I thought about doing this too, but I'm really not sure the value. I decided not to.

 

I found an easy way to solve the lack of abailabilty of the bolt.
I removed it(original one) and tig welded the hole, that is it, install it back and works like a champ.

 

i postulated many many posts back in this thread that the heavy "knob" that we replace with the M16x1.5 bolt should actually not be replaced at all, since it has zero effect on the clutch delay.

well today, i pulled everything back out and swapped the "knob" back in. Finally, the super annoying harmonic resonance I'd been hearing is gone, and that confirmed all my suspicions. I'm now convinced that that knob is a tuned harmonic damper to eliminate/reduce noise from coming through the cylinder assy and into the cabin.

I'd suggest only replacing the internal ferules and flow restrictions for this mod. And NOT the weighted knob/fluid resevoir.

my 2 cents.

 

Thanks for posting that update. I had read this thread a while ago and I believe it was you that mentioned feeling an increased vibration. That got me thinking and I had even posted in a thread on nabisco that it seemed odd that that piece would have anything to do with the clutch delay because it's not in the direct flow of the hydraulic fluid...
(now i'm leaning towards not touching it at all, however, i had planned on plugging the hole with a set screw rather than replace with the bolt, as neanderthal racing had suggested)

NASIOC - View Single Post - Clutch Delay Valve - Anyone Remove It Yet?

Bump- planning on doing this soon.

My question is this:

Is it really necessary to remove the "shim housing" on the Master?
The slave seems obvious because the hydraulic fluid flows through the housing but the one on the MC isn't in the direct flow of the fluids.

It seems more like it's a vibration dampener though. (someone in one of the linked threads had mentioned feeling an increased vibration in the clutch pedal)

Has anyone that's removed that piece and plugged it torn into that thing to see what's inside of it?

edit: the round piece on the bottom of the MC...

 

^^^ When you placed the heavy "knob" back into place, did you just place it back with the stock O-ring and remove the washers?

I'm getting ready for a clutch/flywheel swap and figured I would knock out the delay delete while I had it all apart.

 

I simply re-installed the knob using the same stock gasket washer that you can see in the install pics. and i never did install any of those copper crush washers down into the hole, so can't offer any advice on how to deal with their removal.

for some more info on the harmonic noise I was getting... it was actually quite specific when it happened, but would happen every single time. It would occur when i would push the clutch in to change gears, and then once in the new gear would start letting the clutch out, but before it was fully re-engaged I'd begin to roll into the throttle. I've found this to be the best way to get smooth fast shifts. But without that knob, i'd get what can best be described as a low volume continuous groaning noise as the clutch spun up. It was not at all loud, but it definitely wasn't a happy sound. It definitely irritated me.

 

Braided steel brake line and ATE Super blue is here.

Have all the parts. Just need a warm day to get my car out of storage and a place to wrench on it to get this done.

Will most likely be in March since I dont have any front seats in the car right now and unable to move it. Ill update soon though.

 

Seat substitute:

In the spring I'll be installing a modified slave cylinder to see if it really makes a difference. To me only benefit would be if you are drag racing which I am not, just track lapping events for fun.

 

Seat substitute:

http://www.tcindustries.net/images/Blue_Milk_Crate.jpg

In the spring I'll be installing a modified slave cylinder to see if it really makes a difference. To me only benefit would be if you are drag racing which I am not, just track lapping events for fun.

Sorry. Im not driving my car 60 miles from storage to my house on a crate.

 

I kid, I kid.

 

This might be a cross-post with Nasioc, but it is an update.

I just about wrapped mine up.

I did remove this and replaced it with a plug from the link below as mentioned in post 83.

Replaced my 2006 slave cylinder with a 2005 that was gutted and completed just like I had posted in post 83
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3026361-post83.html

I installed a braided stainless line and used ATE Super Blue. It is all back together with the exception of the pitch stop on the engine. I just took it for a quick drive around the block to get a feel for it.

First impressions: There is definitely a difference. As many others had posted, the engage point for the clutch is lower and the pedal feels heavier. Not bad heavy, but slightly heavier.

As I didnt have the pitch stop installed, I didnt do any WOT pulls and banging gears. I did take it for one trip around the block to make sure it all felt ok. It already feels like I can drive the car smoother. The clutch doesnt "hesitate" and when I re-engage it, it is just a more "direct engage" as compared to before.

Weather is supposed to be lousy here until Thurs, so I wont get a chance to fully check it out until then. Ill report back though with a few pics and further impressions.

 

8 months later and I haven't even thought about returning the clutch to it's former mushyness. It just works the way it should, every time, with my foot directly linked to the clutch fork

 

 

Fourseason- in the photo below, I can see a brass colored banjo bolt halfway screwed into the slave cylinder, yet in the original install photos it shows this hole left open. Why did you screw the banjo bolt halfway into that hole?

 

picked up the bolt at lowes for anyone that cant find one. Gonna do it this thursday along with my clutch, ss line, and tranny mount.

 

Hmmmmm...... I was reading about this mod on a bimmer forum a few years back and totally forgot about this until now. Looks easy.

 

won't work on an 06/07 unless you swap out the slave cylinder.

 

Let me start off by saying that stinks! Will I find the reason here in this thread?

 

Yep45

 

Great job listing all the details in post 83. I checked out the part number for the slave cylinder on Subarugenuineparts.com and they sell it for 134.00 so I will have to think about this for a bit before I decide to go forward with it.

Just out of curiosity why would anyone be selling one of these off of their car? Did you get it from someone who was parting out their car?

 

Yes, it was a 2005 total part out. I think I picked it up for $20-25. I looked for a new one as well and decided against it. I found mine on nasioc.

 

I have one for sale is anyone is interested, I think its from an 06 STi.

 

2006 wont work. Has to be an 04-05.

 

I made the mistake of using one of those used part search sites last night and my inbox is filled with emails offering them for 80.00 and up. I think I will do what you did four and wait for a part-out thread to pop up.
Again; great contribution to this thread will all the info you posted. Post# 83 for future visitors.

 

Question boy is back with some...questions:

"1.) remove the safety clip from clutch actuating arm between accelerator
pedal and the tranny tunnel." Is this clip pretty easy to find once you get down and look behind the gas pedal?

2) Is the point of removing the reservoir so the system stays pressurized until you get it out of the engine bay and doesn't leak brake fluid all over the place?

3) In the initial instructions, the OP states you must "bench bleed" the system. Is this necessary or can I just put everything back together and use the bleeding instructions fourseason posted on page 9?

 

Thanks for answering my questions fourseason. Once I attain this piece I'm confident this will be an easy job. I'll remove the shim and if I hear any noises I'll put it back.

 

Fourseason- what steel braided clutch line did you use? I can only find one from Agency Power for 40 bucks and the STi one for 100.00.

 

Had to search my receipts for this one.

Cheapest one I found. I ordered it with the ATE Super Blue. Fit just like stock and comes with all new hardware.
Techna-Fit Clutch Line 06-07 Subaru STi - Modern Automotive Performance

$42 shipped for the line, Super Blue and using a VIP discount code. You'll have to search for the code, I dont remember what it was. Only saved me like a $1.

 

That's a huge help to me and everyone else who reads this thread; thanks again for going out of your way to find this information fourseason.

I actually found this Techna-fit line last night but was worried about how inexpensive it was. Now that you have confirmed that it comes with the appropriate hardware and is a perfect fit it makes it a no-brainer.

As far as a used clutch slave cylinder goes, it looks like I may be buying it new as they are hard to find used.

 

In case anyone is interested the part number for a 2005 STi clutch slave cylinder is 30620AA090

CYL AY CCH OPER [Part# 30620AA090]
Quantity:

Subaru
List Price:$103.95
Your Price:$76.09

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html