I think its doable on e85. Have no facts for you. Its equal in size to the gtx35r iirc. I dont see why its not a realistic goal.

I would go with the 6266 though.

 

6262 is slightly bigger than 35 actually. I'm all for going bigger as that's normally what you would do but this is a DD and I don't want to sacrifice spool for the 66 if I don't have too.
If someone has some info on how much later the 66 spools over the 62 that would help. But in my head bigger turbo is going to spool later.

 

Don't go small A/Rs on big turbos, sure you might get some spool but end up choking the power up way more up top and won't get your money's worth in terms of power (my opinion). You'll hit that number easily with a turbo of similar size to the HTA86 0.82 A/R

 

Ok good to know. I thought the small ar was gunna choke it up top. My tuner says the .63 is fine and on the car he tuned it didn't choke. I'm going to have to sit down with him and talk.
I'm set on the precision turbos so the hta86 is slightly smaller than a 6262. I'm thinking the 6266 is over kill for what my goal is? But I also don't want to get the 6262 and not hit my goal and have to switch to 6266. From what I see the 6266 is a 500whp turbo on pump. I'm only looking for mid 400s on pump and 550+ on e85.

 

Go gtx3576r with a .82, probably one of the best turbos on the market for 470ish whp on 93. I won't know for sure until May....

What cams? I'm running BC 272s.

 

Ruled out the Garrett gtx3576. Was actually my choice at first but heard its mismatched. But let me know when you do it. Id love to hear what you think of it.

I'm running cossi 274/278.

 

Listen to your tuner. We can give you all the advice in the world, but if you're set on that tuner, he knows what results he will get better than anyone.

 

Who is your tuner? If they're a real reputable tuner I would strongly urge you to listen to them. I was pushed to go 0.63 by my tuner and I was really set on going 0.82 because of my reading on the forums. I ended up listening to him and made almost exactly the same power and torque as a 0.82 setup did with much better transient response and 400rpm better spool, building power all the way to redline. I'm at altitude so it will be different, but your tuner either really knows his stuff or you should go to another tuner

 

My tuner does know his stuff and that's why I'm listening to him. Gunna be talking with him later.
He had a guy in there sworn on a .82 and tuner talked him into the .63 and he couldn't be happier. He said it felt like stock turbo spool and he pulled 480 and 460tq. Impressive when numbers match like that and he didn't have cams. So my cams should net me more than what that guy was and plus with e85 ill net a tad more plus drop a little in spool.
Tuners see this stuff every day so I'm gunna talk to him later and leave it in his hands.

 

Man the mis-information here is redic.

You will be choked up top with .63 guarenteed. It's physics....

 

It will flow less than the 0.82, but if it flows enough to make his target power level it will be more responsive in both boost threshold and transient response. In my case the 0.63 flowed enough to near the efficiency limit of the compressor so I lost almost no power over 0.82, but have better spool. As I said, that's at altitude where back-pressure is inherently less, but if he can make the power he wants with better spool why wouldn't he?

 

My 0.82 A/R is still taking a dump on the 0.63 A/R, low end and top end

It's all about how you match your mods, which is the biggest mistake people make when doing big builds. On paper, their build is INSANE, just wow, look at all the mods, it looks like it'll make 2000whp... The build is complete, now it's in the tuning phase and driving phase, do you know what happens next? The car is a nightmare to drive and makes power funny. What do I mean by a nightmare and making funny power? I'm glad you asked.

The car is a nightmare to drive because it is not practical, it's a shitty drive unless you're WOT, driving hard and in high RPM. The car is screaming noise, foot to the pedal... No other way to drive it in a fun manner.

The car will also make power funny, take a look at the *dyno SHEET* NOT the peak WHP/WTQ. Why do I say that? A car can make 700whp, but it'll only make for 500RPM. That's not a power band, that's a bragging right to a car that's not worth a dime when it comes to fun driving. Do you plan on driving the car?

Oh! You do! Awesome, this is what you need to know. MID RANGE POWER BAND. <-------- This is what you need. Personally, I suggest getting 500WHP and then working on increasing your power band.


My blurb is just saying, match your mods correctly. Your tuner's "reputation" shouldn't be a local thing only - Check the website around for tuners and their feedback.

 

This was so on point it needs to be emphasized in pretty much all bold.

 

Also keep in mind that spool isn't linear, it's a log function. Thus, making lag even less of a concern.

 

I think I might give the .63 a try... It's only around $300 if I gotta get the .82 housing.

 

I want you to post results....I'll post mine and we can compare. I'm not worried about the numbers, but the shape, and spool of the curve should tell the whole story. The numbers (max hp and tq) will be within 5% if we ran on the same dyno with the same ar.

 

I'll save your troubles. Buy 1.06 A/R or 0.82 A/R --> TIAL HOUSING <--

Why?

Stainless Steel housing and it's HALF the size of a traditional exhaust housing. V-Band everything, it'll save you lots, lots and lots of headaches with blowing gaskets. I'm sure User1029 can add to this one :lol: i'm not the only dealing with blowing gaskets on the daily.

 

Man this sounds like you've done this before :lol:

 

everything is Vband on the ETS kit. i was already getting the SS housing to match intercooler piping.

 

Exhaust side is the only thing that should be SS. If your pipes are SS, that's cool but you'll need to be more active in finding ways to protect from the heat. Aluminum does s better job in getting rid of heat.

Your compressor side is made out of cast iron usually and can't be turned into s vband.

 

So I just realized precision released the 6062 gen 2. Might be getting that with a .82 housing.
Makes more power than a 6262 as it has CEA wheels on both compressor and exhaust sides and since its smaller will spool faster.

 

Probably is aluminum but ETS calls it a brushed stainless finish. It's very light so it's probably not steel. But I could be. Doesn't matter as it doesn't get hot and my iat is always good

 

I like the ETS titanium FMIC kit.

ETS 2008-2013 Subaru STI Titanium Upgrade Front Mount Intercooler Kit

Its what I planned on using. $2084 the way I plan to get it :lol:

 

I like the ETS titanium FMIC kit.



ETS 2008-2013 Subaru STI Titanium Upgrade Front Mount Intercooler Kit



Its what I planned on using. $2084 the way I plan to get it :lol:

I was originally looking at that but the burnt look is tacky to me.
I'm very pleased with the brushed finish

 

I like the burnt look because itll match the Tomei TI exhaust. I have however kicked around the idea of the brushed

 

Everyone has there own preferences for sure.

I see more burnt finishes on things then I do brushed so I went the brushed route.
And the only reason I would have done titanium is for the weight but the core is the same core throughout the kits and that's where the weight comes from. The titanium pipes can't be much lighter than the other kits