Clutch isn't slipping. Your lagging with your pedal release. It tends to happen when your new to these cars. You just need to learn the transition with the clutch release point and the gas pedal.

 

it takes more than 1100 miles to learn the clutch on this car. I also advise you to stay in intelligent mode while learning it because switching modes forces you to re-learn on the fly and is detrimental. for example, I would often burn the clutch if I was in sport # when I first had the car.

 

Same here, i still stick to i mode because i tend to give it way too much gas and i did burn it it a couple of times. I pretty much only switch once i'm actually rolling unless I'm launching it.

 

Probably let off the clutch before the hill assist let go and slipped the clutch.

 

I have been in a manual for almost 40 years and this by far is the most difficult car to master. Good luck, and the Subi clutch do smell something fierce.

 

oh so im doing it wrong lol, thank guys i was hella worried this morning thinking my clutch was already going out

 

Look up the term clutch delay valve. It's a way for Subaru to keep idiots from engageing the clutch too quickly which would otherwise put excessive shockload on the drivetrain. If you know how to operate a clutch properly it just leads to excessive wear and the most annoying part that I call wandering engagement. Some people will argue this point, but it rang true for me.

 

Wandering Engagement. Perfect term. I like it and I am going to use it from now on.

 

You really only need to press in the clutch about 1/3 of the way in for the clutch to bite.

I would also disable hill assist. Every man his own but I am not a fan of it at all. Press the brakes to hard on a level surface the thing still kicks in and I stall the car out if Im not paying attentions. But maybe going up and down hills in san fran it could be useful?

Also ixizSclutch eliminates all the extra travel after the bite point of the clutch. Like I said my clutch has such a high bit point the the rest of the 2/3 of clutch travel is dead space.

You are probably depressing the clutch all the way down to the stopper and releasing it to slowly. I would say any of these 3 things would help you

1) Learn where your clutch bite point is. Probably like I said 1/3 of the way in. So when shifting only press the clutch in 1/3 of the way and not actually bring the peddle all the way to the stopper.

2) You press the clutch in all the way to the stopper and wait to get on the gas when releasing the clutch. (Unlearning and learning this would probably be very hard)

3) Get the ixizSclutch adjuster and you will be able to push the clutch all the way down to the stopper (since you adjusted stopper much higher eliminating all the extra travel) and it will give you the normal "general" sensation of other manual cars you have driven in your life.

 

"wandering engagement" Exactly!

 

First off, I admit my 45 years of clutching conventional 4/5 speeds may be counterproductive to my STI, but to me the friction zone of the STI's clutch is among the lowest I've experienced. Muscle memory from other clutches had me not depressing the STI clutch pedal far enough resulting in synchro blockout while changing gears. Sad to say, but it's taken me about 15 months and 8000 miles to instinctively get it right. I've not had any clutch disk burning scent, but I'll admit I've missed shifts.

A couple more observations. The short throw shifter has gotten much freer as the mileage progressed. The engine has too and has become much less susceptible to increasing clutch load (that is, killing the engine). The 2.5 is among the quickest revving engines I've had (even in I mode) so getting used to that is part of my 15 month slow learning process. I've had to experiment with best driving position/coordination. Much of this may be due to my old slow neurons. Someone mentioned many months ago that reaching about 2000 RPM as you traverse the friction zone worked well. I find that to be roughly true (1500-2000 RPM for me). This is assumes level ground. I also have found that I can anticipate the hill holder delay feature pretty well.

Hang in there, you'll be fine.

 

Did I mess up my terminology? When you said the clutch friction zone is the Lowest, do you have to push in the clutch pretty far? I literally just have to push it in 1/3 of the way in and it bits.

 

As soon as I test drove the car I found the clutch in the new STI to be extremely easy to live with for a 300hp car. The clutch in my RX8 was stiffer.

 

+1 for disabling hill assist. It was the first thing i did when i got home with my car the day i got it. Here i am at stage 2 power with 42k on the clock and still enjoying the original clutch.

 

I feel like even wearing different shoe types affects my clutch control. Driving in boots just sucks.

 

Amen to that... Had to drive in flip flops one day and that was a nightmare until I went bare foot.

 

Hmm, learn something every day. Apparently our GD's have all been pre clutch delay valve.

Clutch Delay Valve Removal DIY. A must for rough to engage clutches.

This one mod I would do under warranty if and only if I thought the valve were impeding normal driving. I would not do it to allow me to do dropped clutch starts or other abuse. Call me unethical if you want, because I admit I'd probably replace it too if I thought the car needed significant warranty work. No sense being rejected for unrelated warranty covererage over a technicality.

I'll leave it at that since I really have little experience with later models. That said, I haven driven a GR and didn't notice any problem.