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Sorry for my noobness but does the wrx have the same fuel set up? I have had the stumble since day 1 of ownership on my 2011 stage 2 wrx and its driving me crazy.
 
Sorry for my noobness but does the wrx have the same fuel set up? I have had the stumble since day 1 of ownership on my 2011 stage 2 wrx and its driving me crazy.
Not sure.. I'm assuming it is since it is the same engine. Couldn't hurt to try the mod. Literally cost me $12 and 30min to do.
 
Couldn't hurt to do it a few days before the protune.

I haven't zeroed out my tables yet and all my data logs look just fine.

Personally I'd say just do it. Take some data logs and if everything is in order great! If not, just set it back to stock. Literally takes 5 min to put back :)
 
Won't hurt at all. The data getting changed isn't the kind of stuff you're even going to notice on a normal data log. You have to log the ROM raider parameters and drive around logging for hours to notice. If anything you'll just run a little rich from 2700-3100 rpm.

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I should point out that this isn't the kind of thing a protune will normally address anyway. You should ask your tuner to zero the load compensation tables for acceleration and cruise.

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Thanks for all the help! I'm going to give this a shot this weekend and I hope it takes care of the problem. It sounds crazy but the stumble, in a way, makes driving this car annoying. I find myself driving my beater legacy more around town because the NA ej22 is so smooth compared to my WRX.
 
Everyone with a car this "Stumble/Hesitation" involves, whether the car does this or not. Trust me. Do this.

After ruining my quick-connect OEM hose trying to connect it to the new hose... I took it off and installed the 39 inch 5/16" fuel injector hose easily over the quick-connect's fitting... putting a clamp after the bump in the line. The hose is in a tidy loop covered with loom armor, with two zip-ties limiting movement. The 39 inch hose is just long enough to snake beneath the hoses there and connect naturally, as shown. Only a probing, experienced eye could notice.

Flashed the new map with the tables zeroed out. Went driving.

I have been very open about my car's smoothness, which other mods influenced. However, I now know smooth. I could attempt to describe it, but it really has to be driven to be believed.

It has made a positive change to my already good LTFT.

It has reduced my Knock Sums, a lot.

One meter piece of 5/16" fuel injector hose and two clamps. Cover it if you want. Works magic.

EDITED: For more info on the tables.

See here.
 

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Everyone with a car this "Stumble/Hesitation" involves, whether the car does this or not. Trust me. Do this.

After ruining my quick-connect OEM hose trying to connect it to the new hose... I took it off and installed the 39 inch 5/16" fuel injector hose easily over the quick-connect's fitting... putting a clamp after the bump in the line. The hose is in a tidy loop covered with loom armor, with two zip-ties limiting movement. The 39 inch hose is just long enough to snake beneath the hoses there and connect naturally, as shown. Only a probing, experienced eye could notice.
Where did you source that hose loom? It looks like the stock stuff and I can't find it anywhere.
 
Where did you source that hose loom? It looks like the stock stuff and I can't find it anywhere.
Unfortunately, I forget... but it was probably AutoZone. That's closest to me and where I go first. Over the years I've used it a lot, and have a couple sizes on hand. But after covering that hose I have about six inches of it left so I'll be getting more. That said, I'm pretty sure it is a standard item in stock at auto parts stores.

Funny aside, I spent days deciding on what to do about the hose... a naked coil of it was not an option under my hood. Then, after finding the 5/16" barbed connector wouldn't work, after about two hours of trying, filing, sweating, etc. I had to toss those plans and use Plan B, which I prefer by wide margin... the one shown. Further, I had made two versions of my map... one with the tables zeroed out, and one with them reduced by 75%. Chose the zeros at the last minute.

Yesterday I went for some ammo for a buddy, for his birthday. As usual, when I got there and before I shut the engine (thus AP monitoring) off I checked my Knock Sums. For the first time, in the years of monitoring them, Cyl 3's total was 0. Zero. None.
 
I bought my hose yesterday at Advance Auto and all they had for hose covering was a pack of DEI Cool Tube which also happens to be 3'. It was $19, but I like having the hose protected from both heat and chaffing. I created a new map and will be fitting the new hose on today. Must say, it is a little un-nerving to make changes to the map of such magnitude (from 16 to 0).
 
I bought my hose yesterday at Advance Auto and all they had for hose covering was a pack of DEI Cool Tube which also happens to be 3'. It was $19, but I like having the hose protected from both heat and chaffing. I created a new map and will be fitting the new hose on today. Must say, it is a little un-nerving to make changes to the map of such magnitude (from 16 to 0).
That's why I vacillated about which map to flash, all zeros or reduced by 75%, for days. Then I realized that if I used just the reduced LC maps, that no matter what the results were I'd want to try the zeroed one anyway, "just to see." By fully committing and using the zeroed map, however, results would dictate direction... not my paranoia or indecisiveness.

And it is that magnitude of change that fathers my conviction... that NO car with these tables active can perform at its best. Not after what I now know.

Your reasoning behind the protective covering echos my own. Plus, of course, I simply prefer a coherent engine bay.
 
What are the consequences of performing this mod without a retune? Just a rich spot in the curve?
You haven't looked at and understood the LC tables. There is no "curve."

But I know your question, it was mine as well until I decided to do this. Some don't have options because others did their tune. Maybe these screenshots will help explain things...
 

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You haven't looked at and understood the LC tables. There is no "curve."

But I know your question, it was mine as well until I decided to do this. Some don't have options because others did their tune. Maybe these screenshots will help explain things...
Interesting. So by not zeroing the spot in the table, the ecu is compensating in a positive direction for load and it isn't needed.
 
One more successful fix. I could not get the connecter off with the zip tie method and the nice tool would not clear the bend and support. I cut the top off a cheap ball point pen cap and split it lengthwise. It made the perfect tool to uncouple the connecter. Car runs much smoother now.
Edit:
The cool tube cover makes the coil a bit bulky, but fits nicely none the less.
 
Been reading this thread with interest. I've got a bone stock 08 STi that's had the stumble since I got it new. I've had a pro tune on the list of things for a while to see if that could improve the situation. Can you do this mod with a stock ROM or is that going to cause issues? If the load table isn't zero'ed out are things going to run rich? I'd love to give this a try. It may be an interesting data point to see what happens on a bone stock car if there aren't any adverse effects.

David
 
I just did this mod over the weekend and it was well worth the ten bucks in hose. The car pulls so smooth I was shocked. Its sad that of all the mods I have done, this hose has been my favorite. It almost reminds me of my buddys Evo X in terms of smoothness and was well worth the time and money.
 
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