I hope this helps.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetr...ums/drivetrain-components/198975-help-me-get-rid-squeaky-clutch-under-tmic.html

 

Thanks for the info, i've already took a look at the page

Just got back from subaru, and they said because i changed to dot4 fluid, (ATE super blue) so it creates the squeaky sound..
and they said the fluid is corrosive, and could be eating the parts inside, so there is nothing they can do to fix it.. unless they order parts in to replace it.

is it true though? DOT3 is what they recommend, but dot4 is thicker therefore puts stress on the pedal, or even corrosive?

 

I don't think the fluid got to do with the noise.

This is what I did to fix mine.

Remove the Intercooler (really easy). You need someone to pull the fork towards the front of the car so you can remove the pivot be careful removing the rubber you dont want to break it. (see diagram part #4), once removed grease both ends.

http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-conte...s-Assembly.png


http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-cont...0/04/Subaru-Impreza-Clutch-System-and-Clutch-Disc-Components-Parts-Assembly.png

 

I don't think the fluid got to do with the noise.

This is what I did to fix mine.

Remove the Intercooler (really easy). You need someone to pull the fork towards the front of the car so you can remove the pivot be careful removing the rubber you dont want to break it. (see diagram part #4), once removed grease both ends.

http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-conte...s-Assembly.png

Can you please re-post the link? It's not complete. Thanks.

 

Mine does it with stock fluids and line.
They stated it was normal. (Since it was an intermittent occurrence) I doubt this is the case because none of my previous Subarus or others I have driven feel like this.
Feels rough, especially when warmed up.
If it gets worse it's going back in.

 

WilliamG experienced mad squeaking when he went to Super Blue...and once he changed it back the sqeaking went away.

 

so it could be the oil? because it didn't have it.. until i changed to super blue.

 

It's not the STI diagram but it looks pretty closed. If you see the Diagram part #4 (pivot) needs to be removed and grease at both ends.

http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-conte...s-Assembly.png

 

had the squeaking clutch pedal, took it to dealer under warranty and they said they needed to change the pressure plate. who am i to argue? The squeak went away.

 

they said because i changed different brake fluid, it will not be under warranty..

 

Mine Squeaks, so did my previous car. If you pull the rubber boot where the hydraulic shift line runs into the trans (dont know what it looks like on the subaru yet, but on the previous car it was a rectangular boot on the bottom of the bell housing) and spray some silicone or something in there on the pivot for the clutch fork it should stop. You get a little moisture in there and presto-rusto....squeak squeak squeak

Could also be pressure plate in which case deal with it or get ready to spend some time and money

 

Look up at you clutch pedal assembly. There is an arm that goes from the top of your clutch pedal along the brake and gas pedal and enters the firewall on top of the gas pedal. When you pump the clutch you will see the arm move a cylinder on top of the Gas pedal. White lithium grease the pivots and the cylinder and pump the clutch. No more noise for me!

 

Mine squeeks from the pivot point when it is cold. Has been that way since 2008. Lubing it never helped.

 

I hear squeaking but its not loud. I hear its from dirt stuck in there and can be fixed by cleaning and lubing... adding lube wont do it since the crap is still there.

 

These cars have very loud mechanical systems, but they work well. You have an STi, not a BMW.

My 6 month old clutch squakes intermittently. It's just the system. If it starts to bind or gets worse in a very short amount of time, then worry. OTherwise it's normal operation.

 

Clutch pedal noise 04 WRX STi Fix - YouTube

 

/literally just finished fixing mine, i have a 2000 outback but i believe it should be the same procedure. Take off your air filter with the box, unplug all hoses and unplug air sensor plug. Remove hose clamp and take off remaining part of air box from your throttle body. Now you have a CLEAR view of the problem. Now you should be looking at the clutch cylinder, in front of it on the engine or tranny there should be a rubber boot thing, looks kind of like a shift boot, mine was all cracked and dried out, remove that by sliding it up. Now there is a hole where the lever goes to the throw out bearing (i think) that was covered by that rubber boot, spray some wd40 in there or get in it with a flashlight and a grease gun, problem gone, shifts a lot smoother and is easier to push down on the clutch. In fact it feels so smooth that i wasn't shifting as well because I'm so used to having to let out the clutch so slow due to the fact that it was never that smooth. Hope it helps.

 

I had also a clutch squeaking noise (coming from engine compartment), only when the engine was hot. When engine was at cold the clutch was fine (STI 2010 with 40k miles)

So basically, to fix it, I took off the inter cooler. On top of transmission you will see the clutch slave cylinder. I took off the spring, the target was to access the ball joint of the clutch fork below the rubber protection. To unbolt the slave cylinder, there is 2 x 14mm bolt, but to access those bolts, you need to take out the starter motor.

Disconnect the negative on the battery

The starter is held in place with 2 bolts (14 mm), one on the top below ground wire, and one under the starter motor. I found it easier to unbolt the bottom bolt of the starter motor from under the car.

Taking out the starter motor is it pretty straight forward, just need a bit of torque to undo the bolts.

Then I was able to unbolt the clutch slave cylinder (without taking off the hydraulic line).
I sprayed a bit of lithium grease through the rubber protection (inside the transmission case, where clutch fork goes in), and them I pealed off the rubber protection and put synthetic high temp grease on my finger (not too much), and grease the the joint of the clutch fork.


Then I reversed operation, re installed slave cylinder...and make sure to have clutch slave cylinder pin in line with the clutch fork. install back the spring, grease with synthetic grease.
I sprayed lithium grease on slave cylinder. Then get in the car and press clutch pedal several times. I immediately felt the clutch pedal smoother.

Re install starter motor, and inter cooler and re connect the battery.

Switch ignition on, wait approx 10 seconds for computer to reset butterfly intake position after disconnecting battery, then start the car.

Then test drive, specially in city, and your clutch squeaking noise will have disappeared!
Hope this hepls

 

Hi everyone,

Reviving a dead post, I hope everyone has solved their squeaky clutch problems on their cars, but if not, and it's the spot welds, I'm offering a kit here that will help you replace them without removing the dash, or with multiple universals. The idea is pretty simple, but have helped others do this job in less than 2 hours with the right hardware. Take a look!

https://www.humblerumble.ca/

Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers,
Peter

 

Hey everyone,

Further reviving an old thread. I had the dreaded clutch squeak and looked at all of the main culprits (firewall welds, pivot shaft, pedal assembly squeak, leather seat squeaking against plastic of seat...) and none of them solved my problem.

Turns out my slave cylinder was not sufficiently lubricated under the rubber dust boot. If you've tried EVERYTHING else and cannot figure out what your squeak is, try sliding the rubber boot off the end of the slave cylinder and spraying it with a decent amount of lithium grease. Put the boot back on and drive it for a day or so and the squeak should go away.

 

damn I’ll check that out! Thanks