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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got everything on my car, parts installed...

6GunRacing 2004.5 hub/bearing conversion kit
ZZYZX Motorsports coilovers
Eibach ERS springs, 450/400
Noltec camber/castor plates (front)
Cusco camber plates (rear)
Rota G-Force, 17x8 +48, hyper black with 225/45-17 Hankook RS2's

So far with my eyeball alignment the car drives nicely on the street, but I don't feel comfortable pushing it on the street so I won't be able to offer a full performance review until later.

Ride quality is decent, almost as good as stock with the dampers set to 1/2 turn from soft (rebound) and 3 clicks from soft (bump). The Koni 8611 dampers offer 2.5 turns of adjustability for rebound and 12 clicks for bump. From what I've read, the ideal range of spring rates for these dampers is somewhere in the 400-800 range, although Steve @ ZZYZX tells me they can go much lower than that, and higher than 800.

Please excuse some of the poor quality pictures, I snapped a few too quickly.

Droop travel, rear.




Looks like I've got a whole 3 to 3.5 inches of droop in the rear. Use the top of the wheel as a reference point against the tape measure.

Compressed, on the ground.


Jacked up...


Front droop



Ghetto fabulous. :D



A few pictures of the front...




A few pictures of the rear.....

Look at how close they pushed the entire assembly in towards the car. This picture was taken with the car on the ground. When it's in the air it's very close to touching.


This is the result of pushing the coilover in so far, look at all that clearance...







The end result...

 

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Nice, I envy you so much... so the brake line and abs sensor are held on by zip ties.... =X
 

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Nice coilovers. I am running Advanced Design Dampers w/ seperate rebound and compression. They are mounted in Ground Control coilovers w/ Ground control castor/camber plates. I am currently running 700lbs in the front and 550lbs in the rear all Hypercoils. I have pretty much the same amount of droop as you do which is a huge improvement over my Tein Flex which had maybe 3/4". The ride is also a step up from my Tein Flex setup even on some poor roads. I think the ride is actually more dependent on the dampers.

Do you autox? If so and you plan on running some sticky rubber you may need more spring. Nice looking coilovers though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
AndrewSS said:
Nice, I envy you so much... so the brake line and abs sensor are held on by zip ties.... =X
:D

I don't mind the zip ties, I'm not trying to win any beauty contests. With the way things are set right now the car almost feels like a big Miata. The rear end is loose, but not snappy. I'll tweak the dampening settings a bit and see what happens.



The car has developed a bit of a squeak noise... which is odd because I just noticed it 30 minutes ago. It sounds like it's coming from the glove box, and the noise resembles the noise an old mattress makes when you're uh, jumping up and down on it. ;)

I'll get in there tomorrow and see if I can't find anything. While I'm in there I'll relube the swaybar bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sti752 said:
Nice coilovers. I am running Advanced Design Dampers w/ seperate rebound and compression. They are mounted in Ground Control coilovers w/ Ground control castor/camber plates. I am currently running 700lbs in the front and 550lbs in the rear all Hypercoils. I have pretty much the same amount of droop as you do which is a huge improvement over my Tein Flex which had maybe 3/4". The ride is also a step up from my Tein Flex setup even on some poor roads. I think the ride is actually more dependent on the dampers.

Do you autox? If so and you plan on running some sticky rubber you may need more spring. Nice looking coilovers though.
:cool:

I've never heard of Advanced Design? Sounds like you've got a pretty nice setup though.

I chose the springs I did because HPDE's are more important to me than autocrossing (yeah, I autocross), and those springs should keep a 255/40 RA1 off a rolled rear fender at ~1.5 negative camber. Eventually I would like to get into SCCA time trials. If I ever decide to step up to something as sticky as a 275 V710, I'll go with stiffer springs.
 

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if you dont mind me asking how much did they set you back? I've been looking into coilovers and it seems that i would either go with the ohilns or the zzyzx's. I really like the customizeability of the zzyzx's though.

I see their fitment is A+ but they are a little "ghetto" ;)

What make you go with those koni's and those spring rates? over all I give you props for being one of the only people on here with them. I'm sure they would be great on the track :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I picked them up used for $3100, which included the Noltec race camber/castor plates and the Cusco camber plates. I also had to purchase another set of springs because the 850/600 rates that came with them are too much for what I need right now.

I got in touch with Steve at ZZYZX and he said that brand new they go for $4000, and theres a short (month?) wait because they're built to order.

I was *very* close to ordering a set of KW V3's when I saw the post for these over on NASIOC. All I really wanted was a decent quality coilover setup that would last for a while. When I saw the post I did some research and came to the conclusion that it was a pretty good deal that would be flexible enough for autocrosses and HPDE's, and eventually time trials, so I went ahead and purchased them. What I like about the Konis is the good product support, and obviously the performance isn't so bad either. What I was, and still am amazed by is the flexibility of the 8611 damper. I can pretty much run any spring I want to run.

I do feel a bit wierd though... this is my first coilover setup on any car. I've been doing a lot of research on how to take advantage of them, but I still feel kinda like a rookie that jumped straight to the majors.

I chose those spring rates because I wanted to go with the least amount of spring that would get me what I wanted. Which is to keep a 255/40 RA1 off of a rolled rear fender without having to compromise camber and height settings. I didn't want to go sky high on the rates because I wanted the car to be fun to drive on the street. So I didn't want something that would totally overwhelm street tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sweet, I'm one step closer to solving the squeak problem... I managed to duplicate it while the car is sitting still. If I turn the wheel all the way to the right, all the way to the stop, and turn it back and forth by about an inch away from the stop

Now I need to find a friend to turn the wheel for me so I can put my ear to it and figure out where the noise is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I think the Noltec plate I have mounted on the passenger side is bad.... I'm 90% sure that's where the squeak is coming from.

*edit* -> I suppose I was supposed to grease these things up... crap.
 

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^ have you checked the bearing in it?

I know that a friend of mine (splash on here) had bad noltec plates, the bearing was making the strut shaft move instead of the bearing actually working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
AndrewSS said:
^ have you checked the bearing in it?

I know that a friend of mine (splash on here) had bad noltec plates, the bearing was making the strut shaft move instead of the bearing actually working.
The bearing itself is actually working, or moving... it's just really noisy. Tomorrow I'll take it out to inspect it and grease it up to see if that has any effect.

I also sent an eMail to Noltec to see what they recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After some inspection it looks like the plate in question might be shot. On the healthy one, I can see a bit of a grayish material that looks like it might be some sort of lubricating tape (teflon?). On the other one, it looks like some of this material has been squeezed out through the top and some of it was just resting there.

I tried spraying some white lithium grease on it, hoping it would penetrate, but it didn't seem to help.

Andrew, what plates would you recommend?
 

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^ PDE no doubt, I think they are the best plate out there overall.

Get the version 2 plate too, well thats the only one for sale new now, but used I bet you can find the 1st version. The newer one doesnt raise the car as much (being the biggest change I believe).

I am replacing my noltec plates with the PDE v2 plate when I install the RCE springs in a week or so... I already have the PDE's waiting :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I'm actually thinking about just buying another set of Cusco plates. They'll work for the time being, and I'm almost out of money.

Also, I went back to check my other 2004.5 thread and followed your link... it looks like I've got the plates in wrong, which *may* have something to do with why one of them might be dead.
 

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the PDE V2s also have a hole in the top plate to allow for adjustment, unlike the V1s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I swapped the plates around, and the noise is still on the passenger side so I think my plates are good.

I'm stumped. I can't figure this out.

Initially, when the car is cold, there is no noise. After about five minutes of driving the noise starts. At first it is very faint, but the longer the car is driven the louder it gets. The noise is not affected by acceleration or braking, but seems louder as the vehicle speed increases. The noise starts out as a high pitched squeak, and later becomes a combination of high pitched squeaks and low pitched creaks. I am able to duplicate the noise while the car is stationary by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. Turning the wheel all the way to the right lock and then back and forth about an inch away from the lock is the most reliable way to duplicate the sound.

Driveability of the car is unaffected.

I'm tired. The next time I get a few minutes I'll swap the coilover assemblies and see if that has an effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
More clues. I did something today that I should have tried to begin with.

With the wheel still on, I shook it with my hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. There was some free play. I also noticed that the bottom of the strut moved with the wheel. So this seems to narrow down my noise to these three things...

1. bearing assembly is not properly tightened to the knuckle
2. bearing is bad
3. damper needs to be rebuilt

If anybody else can think of anything, please chime in.
 

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Wow, that was a great deal on those. I'm considering the Ohlins Sportlines coilovers at $2800, so for $3100 I would have jumped on those in an instant. I cant see paying $4000 though, sadly.

The flexibility of the Koni DA is awesome.
 

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Mykl said:
More clues. I did something today that I should have tried to begin with.

With the wheel still on, I shook it with my hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. There was some free play. I also noticed that the bottom of the strut moved with the wheel. So this seems to narrow down my noise to these three things...

1. bearing assembly is not properly tightened to the knuckle
2. bearing is bad
3. damper needs to be rebuilt

If anybody else can think of anything, please chime in.
I would have a hard time explaining how the wheel bearing being loose or the damper being bad could make it squeak when stationary turning lock to lock.

Usually, wheel bearings will kinda knock when loose. What you're describing sounds like something sliding/slipping.

What does come to mind is the plate bearing limiting how far the strut body turns with the strut shaft. If that is happening, then the the body either turns without the shaft, or the shaft doesn't turn as far. Either way something else has to slip, and it's usually the spring on the perches... (squeak)

Granted, you already swapped plates, but both of my Noltecs squeaked like mad because the plate bearing was stiffer than the internal shaft resistance, making the spring slide on the perches.

I suppose what else it could be is whatever holds the lower bracket on the damper body could be loose, making the lower bracket slide in its threads...

My $.02,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think typically you would be right about the bearing, but I'm not sure if you are or or not familiar with the 2005 STi front wheel bearing. It isn't actually a pressed in piece like the 2004. The bearing itself is sealed, and comes with the hub built in. The entire unit actually bolts to the knuckle. So if those bolts aren't tight enough, I think I could see how the bearing housing could move around in a the knuckle a small amount and cause a noise like the one I'm hearing.

So I think it would be more accurate for me to say that the noise is potentially coming from the "bearing housing" and not the "bearing."

At the moment, this is the explanation I'm clinging to because I can't seem to find anything else wrong with the suspension.

But if tightening those bolts doesn't help, I will move the entire damper from one side of the car to the other to see if the noise follows it. I have been tightening the upright bolts to 115 lb. ft. of torque, as well as making sure the bolts in the back that you loosen to adjust ride height are tight. Since all four corners have been tightened the same and it's only making the noise at one corner, I doubt it's that.
 
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