Re: Willub's 04ish 1.5XTR SM STi: New Daily Driver!
THIS is what I have been thinking but couldn't put it in words. That is assuming the shocks have enough travel (either way) to accomplish something helpful.Jack up the car again and pull that coilover off the car. Now - leave the bottom perch as is - don't touch it. Pop off the top camber plate, and pull the 8" spring off the shock. Put on a 6" main spring, and a 3" tender spring, and put the top camber plate back on. Put the coilover back onto the car. With the car at full droop in the air, the shock is fully extended and the main spring is fully extended. However - the tender spring should be slightly compressed. (it should be noticeable) Now lower the car back down, and the tender spring will compress 100% all the way to flat as a "block". This is known as "block height". Because the tender spring is fully compressed, it has now gone from roughly 3" in height down to 1" or so. Therefore, your shock is now also compressed by another 2". You've now gained 2" in droop travel, BUT you have reduced your bump (compression) travel length. At static the car looks 100% the same, but the shocks are already compressed and there's now less room before you hit the internal(?) bump stops.
Thanks for sharing Acejam and Yazel. Neither willub (right?) or I even run a rear bar at this point to combat the lifting issue.Here is another super important thing that I learned: When you are testing droop travel, you really need to jack up the car from the middle. Front skidplate or rear diff. If you jack up from the side, you won't be at true full droop. It will look like you are, but the force from your swaybar on the opposite side of your car is actually holding the shock *UP* in place.