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Whiteline vs Cobb vs Hotchkis

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7.3K views 49 replies 30 participants last post by  ebo03  
#1 ·
How are people deciding which set to get? I've never bought sways before, so I have no experence with them. I've only tested springs as far as suspension goes. So, what made you pick which sway?

I only plan on street and minimal track time. What should I get? Help me suspension gurus! Right now I just can't decide.

And.... which endlinks do I get also????
 
#4 ·
No STI front sway bar is that hard to install. Aren't Cobb and Hotchkis the exact same product?

The Cobb and Hotchkis parts are roughly equivalent to a 23.5mm bar. So, your choices are Whiteline in 22mm or 24mm and Cobb/Hotchkis at ~23.5mm. I think that's a pretty good size, and seeing as the Cobb/Hotchkis are lighter and the same price, they seem like a good choice.

Also consider Cusco's 22mm bars, as they're the only bars I know of that come with rubber bushings. Rubber is better than urethane because it never needs to be lubricated- they're maintenance free.
 
#6 ·
stretch said:
Rubber is better than urethane because it never needs to be lubricated- they're maintenance free.
Just when you think you have heard, researched, asked, read, clicked, pulled your hair out, trying to make a decision and then finally making one..... you learn something new!:p :censored:

Stretch, seeing how I just bought some 22mm front and rear whiteline sways, what "maintenance" need to be done to the urethane and how often?

Thanks,

Jay
 
#7 ·
LightWerkz said:
i'd go cobb or whiteline, the hotchkis sways are PITA to install.
Arn't all sway bars exactly the same, just different sizes? So how can one swaybar be "easier" or harder to install than another?

Just asking because I may try and install mine this weekend! (while

Thanks,

Jay
 
#8 ·
I went with Hotchkis 'street' bars which are the same diameter and method of construction (hollow) as Cobb.

Front install is like any other bar. One major plus in my opinion with the Hotchkis/Cobb front bar over Whiteline is that the ends of the Hotchkis are bent such that they are parallel with the suspension mount points, resulting in no weird angles for the endlinks, no need for extra spacers, none of that stuff. Also I have not heard one instance of Hotchkis/Cobb front bars having the endlink rubbing issue that Whitelines seem to suffer.

Hotchkis/Cobb rear bar includes completely new mount points, not just bushings. This complicates installation a bit. My bar fits perfectly but there have been stories from some folks (Cobb and Hotchkis I think) where the rear bar appeared to be too short. I personally think those cases can all be explained by people having been given the wrong rear bar.
 
#9 ·
wdb said:
Also I have not heard one instance of Hotchkis/Cobb front bars having the endlink rubbing issue that Whitelines seem to suffer.
I could be wrong but isn't the rubbing issue only on the really big bars, 29mm???
 
#10 ·
jaydow11 said:
Arn't all sway bars exactly the same, just different sizes? So how can one swaybar be "easier" or harder to install than another?

Just asking because I may try and install mine this weekend! (while

Thanks,

Jay
The bushings need to be relubricated from time to time. I recommend Prothane grease- it sticks like glue, so it doesn't rub off. Yet, it somehow still lubricates. You'll still have to relube from time to time, but no more than once a year.
 
#11 ·
Yeah I a big bar fan! 29 front 26 rear FTW! Soo much fun. Only got minor endlink clunking, with the whitelines .
 
#12 ·
I have the Cusco 22mm rear bar with Kartboy endlinks - setting on the middle hole - very easy to install (no need to lubricate the mount bushings:tup: ) and I am very happy with the handling results.

I'm on otherwise stock suspension for now, and will be transitioning to RCE Blacks when they come out
 
#14 ·
Or you can always go with something like 20K rear spring rates and no rear sway bar and 15K front spring rates and just the front bar.

This way, you will save weight. The only problem is this is almost a race only set up but, I have known some people did this and he daily drives his car.
 
#15 ·
I installed the whiteline adjustable bars on my 06. I first used a typical lithium grease but it went away quickly (just a few weeks) so I disassembled the endlinks (Kartboy if I remember correctly) and relubed everything again using "boat trailer" wheel-bearing grease. This stuff is great, I used to use it when prepping my MX bikes for Mudd or rainy conditions. It lubes well, sticks and is resistant to washing away. I have had it on for about 8 months now and it is just starting to clunk and bump around a bit indicating it is probably time for a tightening, cleaning, and regrease. I am running the stock front sway bar; i was looking for better rotation (re:oversteer) when I made the mod. I intend to bolt up a set of coil overs when the stock dampers are wasted. I use the car as a daily driver, I mean a real daily driver. It is probably a shame, how much I drive this car! Everywhere,in every condition. I love dirt roads. I love to go to the mountains (Deals Gap). I love to do track days (in just over a year I have done 5). I am running my 5th set of tires in 25k miles (!); and they are not looking like they need to be run in
the wet anymore(Nitto NT-01's).
 
#16 ·
I use anti-seize on my swaybar bushings, havent needed to re-lube in over a year.
 
#18 ·
I don't know of a way to install a FRONT sway without dropping the front subframe brace. It is extra work and you need some 17 & 19mm sockets and a breaker bar. Maybe others can chime in...can it be done without removing the U-brace? I'm on the Cuscos sways & Zero-2rs and very happy with them on the middle setting.
The good part was we just swapped the new Cusco rubber bushings into the stock sway brackets, lubed them with some white lithium, and bolted 'em back in place. No problems so far and the grease seems to be holding up just fine.
 
#22 ·
Personally, I don't know if it's because I used the Kartboy endlinks with the WL combo, which there have been stories saying that that combo creates rubbing with the tie rods which is true for me. Maybe it was the Kartboy endlinks .. I shouldn't have made that broad of a statement with the WL, so I'll edit that.

The X-brace has had a lot of great reviews and is easy to install. I think the X-Brace is supposed to stiffen the body of the car, where as .. sways ____. I'm up early right now and can't think that well. Take this post as a grain of salt for my incapacity at the moment.
 
#25 ·
Personally, I don't know if it's because I used the Kartboy endlinks with the WL combo, which there have been stories saying that that combo creates rubbing with the tie rods which is true for me. Maybe it was the Kartboy endlinks .. I shouldn't have made that broad of a statement with the WL, so I'll edit that.

The X-brace has had a lot of great reviews and is easy to install. I think the X-Brace is supposed to stiffen the body of the car, where as .. sways ____. I'm up early right now and can't think that well. Take this post as a grain of salt for my incapacity at the moment.
Thanks for clarifying things. I'm not going to be doing suspension for a while, but down the road I was planning on buying the WLs adj sways. Looks like I need to do a little more research though.
 
#24 ·
Im in the same boat. My car is my daily throughout the year including snow. I am looking to eventually get into auto-x and track events. Im debating between the WL 27f 24r bars and the cobb combo. My only concern is that ive noticed rust on the WLs after awhile. I just dont know what setup will be the best for DD
 
#26 ·
And now to stir the pot some more.
As I understand polyurethane, lithium-based grease is corrosive, so non-lithium grease should be used (which Hotchkiss recommends and sells) or simply wrap sway bar with Teflon tape at point of contact with the bushing and use no lube (a method I have not tried yet, but wish I had).