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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anti-sway bar install write-up

Installed my Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ), and D-bracket braces (KBR15) with no real issues on my GR. Both installs were done using ramps only*, thus the suspension was loaded.

TiC has a writeup with good pics for the front, but I have seen too many posts like this one about botched installs and thought I would try to be careful to avoid unneeded problems.

Here is the procedure I used:

Front:

  1. Remove the "under cover" by removing the three 12mm bolts, two plastic clips at the back, and two plastic rivets up in the forward parts of the wheel wells.
  2. Spray penetrating oil on end link threads and nut.**
  3. Loosen the 14mm end link nuts using 14mm ratcheting box end wrench and 5mm allen.
  4. Loosen the ten 14mm bolts for the support arm. (The front center two are bolt-nut pairs.)
  5. Remove the support arm.
  6. Spray penetrating oil on the threads of the inverted 12mm bolt and the nut and on the threads of the upward facing 12mm bolt on each D-bracket.
  7. Loosen the single 12mm nut and 12mm bolt on each D-bracket.
  8. Remove the end link nuts.
  9. Remove the D-bracket bolts and nuts.
  10. Apply Anti-Seize to end link threads, D-bracket rear bolts affixed to frame, and threads of all removed bolts.†
  11. Remove stock anti-sway bar.
  12. Position Whiteline 24mm bar, hanging it on the end link bolts.
  13. Grease the provided D-bushings, grease bar surface, and put D-bushings on bar.
  14. Install D-brackets (each with inscribed arrow pointing forward), loosely threading the 12mm bolts and nuts.
  15. Hand thread end link nuts.
  16. Tighten D-bracket bolts and nuts fully by hand.
  17. Tighten end link nuts.
  18. Torque D-bracket bolts and nuts to 18 ft-lbs.
  19. Torque end link nuts to 35 ft-lbs.
  20. Re-attach support arm starting with hand threading of rear center two 14mm bolts.
  21. Hand thread eight remaining bolts, leaving the support arm loose to avoid problems with holes not lining up.
  22. Tighten all ten support arm bolts.
  23. Torque all ten support arm bolts to 44 ft-lbs.
  24. Re-attach under cover.
Rear:

  1. Spray penetrating oil on the inboard lateral link bolt threads and nut.
  2. Using a paper clip, very small screwdriver, or awl, clean any dirt that might be clogging the 5mm allen hole on the inboard end of the end link bolt.
  3. Spray penetrating oil on end link threads and nut.
  4. Spray penetrating oil on the threads of the 12mm bolts and the nuts on the rear of the D-bracket mount.
  5. Loosen the 14mm end link nuts using 14mm ratcheting box end wrench and 5mm allen wrench. (Since the allen inserts into the inboard end of the bolt, a box end wrench, crescent wrench, or adjustable wrench must be used on the nut while you are holding the allen.)
  6. Loosen inboard lateral link nuts.
  7. Loosen the D-bracket bolts.
  8. Remove inboard lateral link nuts.††
  9. Remove end link nuts.
  10. Remove D-bracket bolts.
  11. Apply Anti-Seize to lateral link bolt threads, end link threads, two original D-bracket bolts, and two Whiteline D-bracket-to-brace bolts.
  12. Remove stock anti-sway bar.
  13. Position Whiteline 22mm bar.
  14. Grease provided bushings, grease bar surface, and put D-bushings on bar.
  15. Install D-brackets over bushings, first hanging the each bracket in its eyelet and then loosely threading top 12mm bolts in by hand.
  16. Insert end links bolts through bar and hand thread end link nuts.
  17. Install left and right Whiteline braces (KBR15), hand threading inboard lateral link nuts.
  18. Depress bottom of D-bracket with D-bracket end of Whiteline brace and hand thread Whiteline D-bracket-to-brace bolts.
  19. Tighten end link bolts.
  20. Tighten 12mm stock and 13mm Whiteline D-bracket bolts.
  21. Tighten inboard lateral link nuts.
  22. Torque end link bolts to 33.2 ft-lbs.
  23. Torque 12mm and 13mm D-bracket bolts to 29.5 ft-lbs.
  24. Torque inboard lateral link nuts to 89 ft-lbs.
Recheck all bolts and nuts periodically for proper torque.

*"Ramps only" means the end to be worked on is on ramps, but jack stands are positioned under hard points beneath the raised end of the car and positioned so they will not kick out if a ramp fails. Floor jacks are raised to hard points on each side and wheels on ground are chocked.

**Be careful to avoid getting penetrating oil anywhere it is not supposed to be. I hold a rag or paper towel behind what I am spraying and I spray the oil very carefully.

†Nothing against the anti-Anti-Seize/pro-Loctite crowd but I do not like shearing bolts and stripping heads and nuts on bolts and nuts that I have already removed and re-installed before. I also mark key bolts/nuts, like the inboard rear lateral link nuts and bolts with a fine marker line to monitor them for movement and have never had any unexpected bolt or nut movement on any bolt or nut to which Anti-Seize was properly applied on any one of my cars.

††The inboard lateral link nuts are getting rounded out, even by 6-point sockets, when people try to remove them. I recommend ordering replacement nuts and flange bolts before continuing if it appears that either of the nuts is not going to come off without being destroyed.
Rear suspension, Subaru IMPREZA ? Subaru parts catalog
Self-locking nut: 902350006 -- $0.60 from subarugenuineparts.com
Flange bolt: 901000110 -- $1.42 from subarugenuineparts.com
 

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Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

to cut more time off and for the lazy like me.

use an electric impact which limits out at 70ft/lbs. hand thread on the bolt to insure its not crossthreaded. then impact till it touches the metal. then torque to spec. (most of them i just pound on till i get a few of impact sounds, which is normally about 20-30 ft/lbs. the longer i leave the gun hammering the bolt, the higher the torque on the bolt.)

the electric impact cuts the time to less than 1/4 of the time with hand rachet tools. best tool in my box for 100bux.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

to cut more time off and for the lazy like me.

use an electric impact which limits out at 70ft/lbs. hand thread on the bolt to insure its not crossthreaded. then impact till it touches the metal. then torque to spec. (most of them i just pound on till i get a few of impact sounds, which is normally about 20-30 ft/lbs. the longer i leave the gun hammering the bolt, the higher the torque on the bolt.)

the electric impact cuts the time to less than 1/4 of the time with hand rachet tools. best tool in my box for 100bux.
Sounds like a good investment. During the FSB install, because of space limitations with the car being on ramps only, I opted not to even break out the air wrench for removing the ten cross-brace bolts and the D-bracket nuts and bolts. Even so, the wrenching seemed to go by quickly.

The 14mm ratcheting box wrench is worth the money, since it can be used on both the front and the back end links in conjunction with the 5mm allen.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

nice write up, very organized :tup:
Thanks.

Had I taken pics--which I was not going to do with hands covered with grease, grime, and Anti-Seize--I might have submitted this as a how-to for a combined Whiteline FSB and RSB install or at least an addendum to TiC's FSB install.
 

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Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

I added the F/R sway on my car too and that lateral link nut was such a PITA. Had to ask a friend to get an impact wrench to get that one off. Car handles really well now. Love it.:lol:

BTW, what's a good electric impact gun that I can use for projects like this. (and won't rape my wallet)
 

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Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

fathers day is coming... check out home depot or similar. i got my set last fathers day. it was like 40% off. i got a makita.



it comes with a light, which turns on when the finger switch triggers. such a nice feature.

dont skimp either. get lithium batteries. lighter and not effected by cold weather - worked awsome during my normal -10 to -15 install days. yes, i do installs in the cold, but stop the installs at -20. Where as other battery types tend to lose their charge or discharge faster than normal in the cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

I can see where this would be handy in your environment. Breaking out the compressor, hose, and air wrench is a hassle in extreme temps compared to a battery powered tool.
 

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Re: Whiteline 24mm FSB (BSF39XZ), 22mm RSB (BSR49XZ) installed with no issues

I'm glad I got an honorable mention for what NOT to do, lol.

I hope everyone can learn from my mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is it even possible to get the rear endlinks on the stiffest setting for the 22mm adjustable. I am having issues....
Yes. I got mine on the stiffest setting before changing them to medium.

Are you having trouble with positioning the end links or lining them up to go through the holes? What is the specific problem?
 

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Yes. I got mine on the stiffest setting before changing them to medium.

Are you having trouble with positioning the end links or lining them up to go through the holes? What is the specific problem?
I assume you like the medium setting more then? Yes, so basically i am having trouble lining up the end links with the holes, it's so hard to push the links towards the outside of the car and slip the bar into position...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I assume you like the medium setting more then? Yes, so basically i am having trouble lining up the end links with the holes, it's so hard to push the links towards the outside of the car and slip the bar into position...
Medium is fine until I get springs or coilovers. Then I will adjust if necessary.

Put Anti-Seize on the end link bolt and in the hole on the RSB. This will make it easier to get the end link bolt into the RSB hole. A flat pry bar and small rubber mallet will help if you cannot get it to sink by hand.
 

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Cool, Thanks, I will give it a go after a purchase the pry bar. I can't believe I don't have one either.... Thanks for write up to, saved me much anger...
 

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I think if you are on stock springs, it will be really tough to get your stock endlinks into the stiffest setting on the RSB at stock ride height. Also, at this setting, there will be a bigger load on the endlink which may lead to premature endlink failure. So I would suggest keeping it at medium unless you get aftermarket endinks like the whiteline adjustables.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think if you are on stock springs, it will be really tough to get your stock endlinks into the stiffest setting on the RSB at stock ride height.
It is somewhat tough with the car on ramps, which struck me as easier than having the suspension unloaded with the car on jack stands. The stiffest setting did seem to put a lot of stress on the end links.
Also, at this setting, there will be a bigger load on the endlink which may lead to premature endlink failure.
This^. I was tempted to put it on soft until I can go to a higher spring rate, since stiffer springs would reduce the amount of work the SB has to do.
So I would suggest keeping it at medium unless you get aftermarket endinks like the whiteline adjustables.
I am not totally sold on the WL end links because I have read of failures. I would prefer a design that is comprised of a single piece of metal. That being said, I should probably order something for the day either F or R end links snap.
 

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It is somewhat tough with the car on ramps, which struck me as easier than having the suspension unloaded with the car on jack stands. The stiffest setting did seem to put a lot of stress on the end links.

This^. I was tempted to put it on soft until I can go to a higher spring rate, since stiffer springs would reduce the amount of work the SB has to do.

I am not totally sold on the WL end links because I have read of failures. I would prefer a design that is comprised of a single piece of metal. That being said, I should probably order something for the day either F or R end links snap.
Yes, you should be doing the torquing all endlink nuts to spec with the suspension loaded. Since the stock endlink is only designed to have 1 dimension of movement (east, west), attempting to use stiffest rear setting would require you to bend the endlink in the (north,south) direction. If you are on coils or springs, then the distance between the stiffest hole and endlink mount on the control arm is shorter so theres less risk of snapping the stock link. With the WL adjustables, the section that is bolted to the lateral link is a spherical ball joint so theres more room for play.

I believe most of the failures were due to user error and botched install. Getting these properly installed is not so easy.
 

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Ugh, I need to be added to the list of RSB install FAILs. Well, the bar itself went in easily, but that lat link nut would NOT budge.I couldn't even get the passenger side off, which should be easier since the exhaust isn't in the way. So now it's rounded off and I am braceless for a few days until I can get a shop to whack 'em out.

I tried:
PB Blaster + 15 minute soak (3 times before a wrench even went on the car)
Basic forged wrench with pipe fitted for leverage
High power impact gun w/ 6 point forged socket
Large pry bar (started to get minor rounding)
Large pry bar + pipe and some wood pieces to align the moment arm
More PB Blaster
Torch held on the nut, with digital pyrometer to monitor relative temps
Yet more pry bar

At this point we were rounded off, and any torque just twisted the socket off the nut. So we took it to the next level and welded the forged 6-point socket onto the nut. The weld broke. So we rewelded the crap out of it...and it still broke.

And then, I admitted failure and called it a night. I'll pick up replacement/factory nut+bolt pairs tomorrow and let my shop have at it. And btw, my car only has 5k miles on it, and was driven in snow once last winter, so it's certainly not 'weathering' of parts.
 

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Ugh, I need to be added to the list of RSB install FAILs. Well, the bar itself went in easily, but that lat link nut would NOT budge.I couldn't even get the passenger side off, which should be easier since the exhaust isn't in the way. So now it's rounded off and I am braceless for a few days until I can get a shop to whack 'em out.

I tried:
PB Blaster + 15 minute soak (3 times before a wrench even went on the car)
Basic forged wrench with pipe fitted for leverage
High power impact gun w/ 6 point forged socket
Large pry bar (started to get minor rounding)
Large pry bar + pipe and some wood pieces to align the moment arm
More PB Blaster
Torch held on the nut, with digital pyrometer to monitor relative temps
Yet more pry bar

At this point we were rounded off, and any torque just twisted the socket off the nut. So we took it to the next level and welded the forged 6-point socket onto the nut. The weld broke. So we rewelded the crap out of it...and it still broke.

And then, I admitted failure and called it a night. I'll pick up replacement/factory nut+bolt pairs tomorrow and let my shop have at it. And btw, my car only has 5k miles on it, and was driven in snow once last winter, so it's certainly not 'weathering' of parts.
glad to see im not the only one who had trouble. after snapping the adaptor to my socket/breaker bar, I tried using an impact gun. It still didn't work, so I'm taking the exhaust off tomorrow to try and reach the drivers side nut better, and probably the wheels as well. It seemed impossible to get the whiteline adjustable rear end links to drop into bottom section and slide a bolt through, I am ready to take a hammer to everything to make it all fit. I also don't know how to correctly adjust them/tighten them. (stock ride height).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
glad to see im not the only one who had trouble. after snapping the adaptor to my socket/breaker bar, I tried using an impact gun. It still didn't work, so I'm taking the exhaust off tomorrow to try and reach the drivers side nut better, and probably the wheels as well. It seemed impossible to get the whiteline adjustable rear end links to drop into bottom section and slide a bolt through, I am ready to take a hammer to everything to make it all fit. I also don't know how to correctly adjust them/tighten them. (stock ride height).
I would order a replacement nut first and probably the bolt, too.
Rear suspension, Subaru IMPREZA ? Subaru parts catalog
Self-locking nut: 902350006 -- $0.60 from subarugenuineparts.com
Flange bolt: 901000110 -- $1.42 from subarugenuineparts.com

You will probably destroy the nut getting it off.
 
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