IW STi Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this subject has probably been talked to death but after much reading I have come to a very specific question.

I have already done a few track days on stock BBS, and with very few mods to the car (except for brake fluid and track pads). The re070s are suffering, so it's time to move to RA-1s. I'm not planning to keep using the BSSs on the track, so I also need a new set of rims.

My winter tires are running on the 17x7.5 ASA JH3s from Tire Rack, which seemed to be the right cheap and cheerful answer at the time for winter road use only. They are Low Pressure Cast (then shot peened, FWIW), and 23.8 lbs each. (There doesn't seem to be a huge weight benefit for most other cast wheels.)

Considering the price, why would I not use these wheels for track days?
- Are the benefits of moving to x8" or x8.5" significant?
- Are the benefits of moving to 18" significant?

I know the benefit of moving to forged would be less weight (which I'm willing to compromise on) but would they be significantly stronger (where I'm not willing to compromise). Or rather are the JH3s significantly weaker?

Currently Tire Rack has those wheels on special at $99, which seems hard to resist. Is there something fundamentally "wrong" with these wheels for this price?

Thoughts? (Apart from me being a tight wad!)
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,253 Posts
the wheel width is going to be the real limiting factor.

being on stock suspension, you could run an 8" +48mm offset wheel and 255/40 RA1s and be golden.

why not run the BBS? you can get 255/40 RA1s on there.

Use the Cheapies for street duty and keep the 8" wheel for the track.

grab a set of 255/40 RA1s and then get some 225/45 17s for your new cheapies for the street.

oh an 18" has no real benefit with the stock brakes, you can get just as wide of a 17" plus 17" tires are cheaper! :D
 

·
The Hoff Fan Club, member #001
Joined
·
9,936 Posts
yea if you want to get a rim just for track duty i would stay with something thats 17''. tires get real expensive, real quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We're getting closer...

T3h_Clap said:
why not run the BBS? you can get 255/40 RA1s on there.

Use the Cheapies for street duty and keep the 8" wheel for the track.

grab a set of 255/40 RA1s and then get some 225/45 17s for your new cheapies for the street.
I thought about that option, but I'm real partial to the look of the BBSs, and looks are my priority for the street.

For the track I'm looking more for functional, without compromising on safety, but I'm not looking for the ultimate performance wheel.

Tough to please, eh?:D
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,253 Posts
Blueberry said:
I thought about that option, but I'm real partial to the look of the BBSs, and looks are my priority for the street.
hmm, you could always pick up another set of BBS's.

Blueberry said:
For the track I'm looking more for functional, without compromising on safety, but I'm not looking for the ultimate performance wheel.
well, you don't seem like you want to drop too much change, so it seems $ is more important then function.

If you put function first, then price there are a few viable options. The first that comes to mind is,

17x9 +43mm FN01RCs with some 255s would be good for the track, may need some rear camber bolts and a fender roll but they are only ~$800 for the set.

I found a set of "Street" wheels that fit what I wanted so I bought those instead of Track wheels like I planned. The beauty of this is the BBS's are still good wheels for the track (in my case more Autox).

Once I find a Race wheel that fits my needs I'll be picking it up, but I'm anal about wheel fitment if you havn't already noticed :lol:

Blueberry said:
Tough to please, eh?:D
I've dealt with worse :lol:

-t3h_:clap:-
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,274 Posts
evilSTi7 said:
yea if you want to get a rim just for track duty i would stay with something thats 17''. tires get real expensive, real quick.
+1.

Stick with 17"s. I ordered a set of Prodrive PFF-7s (which are 18s) since I've been lusting after them forever and figured I would use them as an auto-x set of wheels. Then I had to buy 18" tires. :( They are $texas. Stick with the 17s where the prices are much cheaper, especially when you are getting into R-Compounds.

You can pick up another set of the stock BBSes for cheap. I say go for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Back to the main question...

T3h_Clap said:
17x9 +43mm FN01RCs with some 255s would be good for the track, may need some rear camber bolts and a fender roll but they are only ~$800 for the set.-t3h_:clap:-
Could be a possibility, but I spotted a few 17x8's that would do the job for those $$$s. Anyway, the FN01RCs are cast, similar to the JH3, so apart from the looks (they are nice, BTW) is there any benefit?

I certainly like the sound of another set of BBSes; any idea where they come "cheap"? Even Ebay prices are $1500 for wheels with tires.

Back to the main question:
For $99/wheel, is there anything fundamentally wrong with the ASA JH3s for track use, apart from the fact that they are only x7.5?

Cheers,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
There is nothing wrong with a good cast wheel.

For equivalent design, the fatigue strength is equal to forged. The impact strength is slightly higher for a forging, but if you hit that hard I would consider both wheels junk and there will be other damage.

I once hit the Armco at the track and bent a cast wheel 0.060" out of true. I also bent a suspension pickup along with the obvious sheet metal damage. (It wasn't a Subaru.)

If you are OK with the width and the extra unsprung weight, the ASA wheels will be fine.

For a few dollars more the SSR wheels in the same size are on sale for $250 each. The weigh about the same as the stockers. I have a set for my Victoracers in gold and at speed you can't tell them from the BBS's...
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,253 Posts
you guys need to remember he has a MY05, different wheels are available for the MY05 that aren't available for the MY04s.

17x8 RPF1? not in a good offset
17x8 SSR Type C? not in any MY05 fitment (yes there is an SSR Comp RS but those are $400 a copy).
 

·
Poor Speed Racer
Joined
·
4,432 Posts
1) track wheels WILL get messed up, so if you are going to buy something remember it will never look new again
2) Its the track and **** happens, i would go cheaper/heavier (rota then 5zigen then Enkei) that way if one breaks/chips etc its cheap to replace.
3) stay with 17's
4) you can always get a set of falken RT-615's as they are nearly R-comp quality.
5) I would recomend NOT shaving the RA-1's if you get them. It will take you about 3-4 sessions to get them nice and sticky, but its nice on those other sessions to get used to them, as they get stickyer (is that even a word?) and stickyer as you drive on them


thats the spazegun guide to wheels ;) have fun and stay safe!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
I have been thinking about a specific set of track wheels too. After 7 track days this year and hopefully more next year it might be time. I too don't want to spend $400+ per wheel for track so I have been thinking of going with Rota Slipstreams in 17x8.5 with RA1s. Not the least expensive but I think it would work very well.:p
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,253 Posts
Andy STI said:
I have been thinking about a specific set of track wheels too. After 7 track days this year and hopefully more next year it might be time. I too don't want to spend $400+ per wheel for track so I have been thinking of going with Rota Slipstreams in 17x8.5 with RA1s. Not the least expensive but I think it would work very well.:p
as long as that high offset works with your suspension that's the least expensive option on the table.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
We're getting there...

spazegun2213 said:
1) track wheels WILL get messed up, so if you are going to buy something remember it will never look new again
2) Its the track and **** happens, i would go cheaper/heavier (rota then 5zigen then Enkei) that way if one breaks/chips etc its cheap to replace.
3) stay with 17's
4) you can always get a set of falken RT-615's as they are nearly R-comp quality.
5) I would recomend NOT shaving the RA-1's if you get them. It will take you about 3-4 sessions to get them nice and sticky, but its nice on those other sessions to get used to them, as they get stickyer (is that even a word?) and stickyer as you drive on them

thats the spazegun guide to wheels ;) have fun and stay safe!
1) Agreed. That's why I want to keep the BBSs for road only.
2) Totally agreed! That's why I was looking at the $99 ASA JH3s; just seemed too good to be true!
3) Yup, if only for tire costs!
4) Think I'm going to start with RA-1s.
5) That's my plan.

Andy STI said:
I have been thinking about a specific set of track wheels too. After 7 track days this year and hopefully more next year it might be time. I too don't want to spend $400+ per wheel for track so I have been thinking of going with Rota Slipstreams in 17x8.5 with RA1s. Not the least expensive but I think it would work very well.
Having seen Mykl's Rota G-Force on his Silver STi, I think it's going to be Steel Grey 17x8s for me with RA-1s.

T3h_Clap said:
as long as that high offset works with your suspension that's the least expensive option on the table.
Do you really consider that to be a high offset? I'm running stock suspension; should I be concerned?


So, 17x8 Steel Grey Rota G-Force, with Toyo RA-1 225/45-17. Any alarm bells ringing?

Cheers
 

·
Poor Speed Racer
Joined
·
4,432 Posts
Blueberry said:
So, 17x8 Steel Grey Rota G-Force, with Toyo RA-1 225/45-17. Any alarm bells ringing?

Cheers
looks like you are well on your way :) and the odds are you could probably fit a 235-245/40 on there and still be fine clearence wise. I know 245/45 nitto's will rub on pinks and rce plates (under high loads), but other than that you should be fine.

I would also look into the Nitto NT-01's I know they are cheaper than the toyos (if you need a hookup for the nittos let me know) but provide the same if not better grip.
 

·
OT stealth mod
Joined
·
4,261 Posts
Did i miss it? What suspension are you running?

I personally would not suggest buying a track wheel that is narrower than stock....if you are going to "upgrade" then upgrade. Get something at least as wide as stock or wider.

The high offset may have an effect on your suspension....coilovers are thicker than the stock struts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
Blueberry said:
Having seen Mykl's Rota G-Force on his Silver STi, I think it's going to be Steel Grey 17x8s for me with RA-1s.


Do you really consider that to be a high offset? I'm running stock suspension; should I be concerned?


So, 17x8 Steel Grey Rota G-Force, with Toyo RA-1 225/45-17. Any alarm bells ringing?

Cheers
:cool:

The 225 RA-1's will work, but if I were you I'd go with the 235/45's. Perfect match for the wheel performance-wise. If you *really* wanted to, you could probably shoe-horn a 255/40 on it, but there *might* be rubbing issues.



...and the wheels on my car are hyper black, not sure if the color had anything to do with your decision or not.
 

·
I Solve Problems
Joined
·
18,253 Posts
Blueberry said:
Do you really consider that to be a high offset? I'm running stock suspension; should I be concerned?

Cheers
yes +48mm is a "high" offset when someone is running coilovers.

on a stock suspension +48mm is fine you can run a 275 and not have any strut clearance issues (except when they are brand new). Now you may have fender issues with a 275, but you'll be able to run a 225-245 with little to no issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
dailydriversti said:
Did i miss it? What suspension are you running?
Stock suspension.

dailydriversti said:
I personally would not suggest buying a track wheel that is narrower than stock....if you are going to "upgrade" then upgrade. Get something at least as wide as stock or wider.
Good point. I think I've decided on 17x8, which is same as stock.

spazegun2213 said:
I would also look into the Nitto NT-01's I know they are cheaper than the toyos (if you need a hookup for the nittos let me know) but provide the same if not better grip.
I'm looking at Toyo RA-1 235/45/17 for $182 or 235/40/17 for $168 (go figure!). The closest NT-01 I've found is 245/45/17 for $180. Doesn't look like they do a 235. Unless you know otherwise.

Mykl said:
...and the wheels on my car are hyper black, not sure if the color had anything to do with your decision or not.
Just seeing a color darker than silver on a silver STi convinced me. Maybe the Steel Grey has less apparent bling than the Hyper Black?
Has anyone seen the Steel Grey G-Force in the flesh?

Thanks again guys.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top