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Believe me, I understand your concerns completely. I had the same concerns with the WRX. But what I learned is that as long as you are meticulous with the parts you choose and the install of them, without cutting even a single corner, you will be just fine. I "measured 3x and cut once" with everything I did on the WRX and the end result was a flawless 300whp car that never so much as saw a single check engine light, oil consumption problem, or boost issue for 3 years. I sold it last week and it was still running like new.

Definitely weigh everything out as you are, don't rush into anything and in the end you may see that a modded car can be as reliable as a stock car. Even more so when you consider that the factory tune on the STI is pretty damn terrible.
 

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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
I've a listing of things now:

Part/Service (Price)

Cobb AP v3 (650)
Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS (116)
Walbro 255 fuel pump (92)
Nameless Intake (no price yet) EDIT: $299 as of 2/20/2014 - $$$!
Cobb catted DP (595)
Tune - AIG in MD (500)

Total - $1953 EDIT: $1953 + $299 = $2252

The EBCS can be had for cheaper - the other parts' prices seem to be almost set in stone across most vendors. I got all the pricing from rallysportdirect.com and will probably be ordering through them, although I'll be checking for any price drops from time to time. That total price was a bit of a shocker, but I can swallow that figure.

I chose Cobb because it'll bolt to the OEM exhaust (correct me if I'm wrong)...it goes from 3" to stock (2.75"?), right? No adapter needed? I just can't afford a full exhaust right now...maybe next year.

And sc00ter, I think I'm understanding why you mentioned going turboback -- you factor in a TBE the first time you get tuned, so you don't have to worry about more exhaust tuning later...at $500 a tuning session, getting max bang for your buck is probably a good idea.
 

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...

I chose Cobb because it'll bolt to the OEM exhaust (correct me if I'm wrong)...it goes from 3" to stock (2.75"?), right? No adapter needed? I just can't afford a full exhaust right now...maybe next year.

And sc00ter, I think I'm understanding why you mentioned going turboback -- you factor in a TBE the first time you get tuned, so you don't have to worry about more exhaust tuning later...at $500 a tuning session, getting max bang for your buck is probably a good idea.
Exactly, you definitely want to plan ahead to ensure you get everything you can out of the tune. But if you plan to keep the stock cat back for the long haul then just upgrading the DP is going to be fine as well. I'm actually considering keeping the stock cat back this time around to keep the car as quiet as possible. And really, you could upgrade the cat back down the road and no tune adjustments should be needed. But you may want to confirm that with your tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
So, I'm currently conducting research on the parts I want to install before I go to get tuned. One of the parts is a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump.

In my quest of knowledge, I decided to check several import shops for this part. I found this link. It's a $98 part that comes with an install kit. It also has a customer review section on that page. There are several reviews that mention that the factory housing had to be modified a bit for the pump to properly fit. Dunno if I like that, but if I can understand what area of the housing needed grinding, I can fortify myself with that knowledge when the time comes for me to swap out the stock part with the Walbro.

One of the reviews also stated that the install kit was a waste of money and wasn't needed. He's probably right, as I remember doing a direct swap when I bought a Walbro for my Talon back in the day...it was a direct swap and no install kit was needed then, either. This link is the Walbro without the install kit. it also has a linked video (which I'll embed in this post) and a review that states there are YouTube videos that show how to modify/grind the factory housing.


My impression of the video: the process of swapping out the fuel pumps was LONG and INVOLVED! Good grief. I don’t remember the Talon’s swap being that complicated. From my understanding, this is more complicated than when doing pump upgrades on the GDs. The video didn’t show the modding of the housing but did state that IWSTI had a write-up in their How-To section about modifying the housing (using a dremel).

My next steps will be to locate the IWSTI How-to and study up a bit more.

EDIT: IWSTI how-to link is here. Will read it when I've more downtime. Also, was searching for where the pump was, location-wise. I looked in the service manual but it didn't state the location within the fuel pump removal/installation section...found it here, though (note that that's a GD in the picture, but I'm very sure it's similar to the GR/GV's pump location).
 

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Like S1ckWrx said, you might want to look into our DW65c fuel pump. The part number you need would be 9-652-1008. It flows 265lph, is a direct drop-in, ethanol compatible, quiet, and comes with a 3-year warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I'll probably consider the DW65c, but my main beef with the install wasn't due to the housing needing to be modified. After looking at the video, the modification should be pretty simple. But even with a drop-in replacement fuel pump, the process of removal and re-installation looks to be a damned PITA though...in general. The DW65c won't change the fact that it's still going to be a 2 hour process.

I'm just venting. I'm sure I'll be OK once the work is compete (and I'm tuned).
 

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Discussion Starter #88
While I have the Cobb catted DP on my upgrade list, I'm aware that it necks down to 2.5". I initially selected it because I thought it was be a quick and easy part to select (I'm still using the stock catback).

Well, I'm shopping around and saw the CNT Performance catted downpipe. I'm currently studying up to see if this particular part has any negatives, but based on the following (Cygnus Performance marketing), it has some pros compared to the Cobb catted DP:

  1. Greater flow due to larger outlet area
  2. It is a full 3" vs the Cobb's tapered form factor
  3. It will work with a Cobb OTS map.
  4. I can order an adapter that will make the 3" CNT taper down to stock diameter (this would be great, in case I want to upgrade the catback later).
  5. Pricing is much less than the Cobb product (CNT catted is currently $369 vs the catted Cobb's pricing of $595.
  6. It doesn't limit my future modding potential (see #4)
Does anyone have any input on the CNT catted DP?
 

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Check out my journal, I Just installed the CNT dp Valentine's weekend. So far so good.

Auto corrected from my Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk2.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
FUCK.

The money is here, finally, but I'm having an extremely difficult time pulling the trigger on ordering any of the parts, because I keep trying to refine my list to keep costs down and get the most out of the protune. That's not all, though: the recent few "blown engine" threads have spooked the hell out of me.

I've crunched some numbers and created alternative mod lists. My original list (upper left list) seems to be the most rock-solid -- it has everything but the catback. The spreadsheet has more detail than I'm sharing here (I'm trying to keep this short), so take a look at it if you can.

I also had a thought: if I stick to my original list, the car is probably going to be fucking loud...louder than it currently is. I'll be adding a CNT catted DP to a stock midpipe and NP axleback deletes. I also did a product list that has a full exhaust (muffled NP catback mated to a CNT catted DP), but I'd have to skip a protune if I go that route, as the total pricing is $2288...trying to stay as close to $2k as possible. MOAR LOUD is not acceptable, but I'd have to experience it first...maybe I'm wrong.

So, it may be maybe a week or so before I pull the trigger on ordering, but there's a chance I'm not going to order. I'm not going to lie...I don't want to bust the engine, even if I've some money stashed away already. Also, I can keep a stash of funds in case the engine lets go, but I can't mod AND keep a stash of funds without the wife getting upset about it. Another option is to keep this money on the side, in addition to my "popped motor" fund and wait another 6 to 12 months...by then, I'd have a higher mod budget to do things without so much compromising.
 

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Alright brother, have not had the chance to sit down and look over your spreadsheet but I have been thinking about your post damn near all weekend. What if you stick with the original plan and if the thing is too loud, GO to a local muffler shop and have em drop in some small mufflers on the nameless? I mean. You could sell it of and go with another alternative, but just a thought. At the airport on the phone so this is quick, but just a thought.

Auto corrected from my Galaxy S3 via Tapatalk2.
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Alright brother, have not had the chance to sit down and look over your spreadsheet but I have been thinking about your post damn near all weekend. What if you stick with the original plan and if the thing is too loud, GO to a local muffler shop and have em drop in some small mufflers on the nameless? I mean. You could sell it of and go with another alternative, but just a thought. At the airport on the phone so this is quick, but just a thought.
OK. I'm going to just plunge into the icy water and not overthink things anymore.

The AP has been ordered. It should be here on Friday. I'll be ordering the other things this evening as time permits.

I'll stick with the original plan and if the exhaust is too loud, I can always put the stock mufflers back on until I can get NP muffler replacements. I like your solution of selling the deletes for an alternative solution. I gotta learn to start thinking outside of the box.

Thanks for the nudge!

EDIT: All but the EBCS and fuel pump are ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Was perusing the forums since I'd been away for a week or so...catching up. For some reason, I never saw this thread: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-exhaust/265541-downpipe-comparison.html

I started reading it and was trying to commit some of it to memory, when I saw someone post on the CNT catted DP here. I wanted to bookmark it in the journal so that someone whose interested in this particular DP would have some additional input. I'm not sure if I'm going to actually attempt to de-bur the DP if there happens to be metal burs inside, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Re: Unixfool's '11 DGM STI Sedan - Going Stage 2, parts ordered!

Quick question.

Next year around this time, I'll more than likely be getting rid of the stock catback system...I'll more than likely be going Nameless (midpipe and muffler replacements).

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this but I want to ask in case I'm wrong: Will I need to get another protune or will I be fine since the first protune will be with the CNT catted DP?
 

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Re: Unixfool's '11 DGM STI Sedan - Going Stage 2, parts ordered!

Get that AP v3 installed and flash stage 1. You might like that power level so much you forego everything else for now. :lol:

At just Stage 1 my STI feels as fast as my pro tuned '07 WRX with VF48, 3" exhaust, STI TMIC, Walbro 255 fuel pump and Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS felt. In fact, The STI is hitting the same target boost (17.5psi) as the WRX was and it put down 289whp/315ft-lb TQ with that setup at 5200ft elevation. I'm more content with stage 1 than I thought I would be. I plan on sticking with this power level for the next year and using money for suspension/tires instead.

I don't mean to be the guy trying to put a halt to your power modding but Stage 1 on the GR STI is as impressive as Stage 2 was on the GD STI. And if you are really worried about your motor blowing then Stage 1 might be just the ticket for now.
 
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