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Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: This thread topic is purely informational and to answer any questions in regards to the set-up. Please do not ask about pricing and or things related to that. I do not want to get this locked.

Some of you guys have been reading about this from start to finish. It all started with jsavage's 2nd gen DIY thread. He did his set up based upon the Thule rack, while I developed my set up based upon the Yakima rack. (NASIOC - View Single Post - Custom Roof Rack Installation w/Instructions - Second Generation!) This topic specifically deals with the Yakima set up, why you ask?

The 2008+ Subaru Imprezas use the same exact set up (Yakima). The 2008+ OEM Subaru rack is also similar with exception of the screws (this I am not sure on, they could be in fact the same size screws as what I used). So this allows MY01 - MY07 to use the same rack as the newer cars, that is more solid, sleek, and secure.

The old way of modifying q-clips (How To: Custom Installed Yakima Rack - NASIOC) is long gone, and this is the BEST permanent solution in my opinion. You don't damage any paint, they CANNOT be pried off the car like how they were originally on my car :diaf:

I originally started with modifying the original brackets located on the car. Drilling and tapping the thin steel, and using anorexic 10-32 cap screws to secure the Yakima Landing Pads (#11) to my car. They worked for awhile, but they didn't suit me as a "permanent" solution. So what I did was launched up SolidWorks and made a simple bracket that would suit my needs.

Conception:


From there, it launched this thread topic: New product interest thread, Roof Rack related - NASIOC

Then to the prototypes:


Then we get to this thread, where the final iterations are decided on and a solution to the everlasting issue of solidly mounting a roof rack is resolved :)

Here, compare the 2, which one looks more sturdy?



What we have on the left is a mild steel bracket, stamped into shape, with some pressed in studs. The new bracket is made from 303 Stainless Steel, machined from a billet bar stock, drilled/tapped with M6x1.0 threads, and bead blasted. Hardware is 18-8 M6x1.0 x16mm socket head cap screws, and you use the hardware that come with the Yakima Landing Pads. Onto the installation! Next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So, you have to removed the old brackets, and it takes a bit of work, but it's not too bad. Remove the rain gutter strips on the roof to expose the stock bracketry (sorry I didn't take pics of this, but there is a online guide somewhere). You basically have to use a small screwdriver and locate the sliding clips under the strip. Once you locate one, push it forward with the screwdriver to unlock it from the metal tab on the roof. You will see if you stand on the door sill, and look on the side farthest to the door. Put it aside, and move to the interior.

1) Remove the sun visor, and put the screws somewhere safe.


2) Pull away the side pillar


3) Remove the "Oh *****" handles


4) Pop out the lower panel by the seatbelt


5) Pop off seat belt slider cover and loosen slider


6) Pop off top panel by seat belt


7) Pull down headliner to expose "Oh *****" handle bracket (you will have one in the front and one in the rear)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
8) Remove the nuts holding the stock bracket to the car, once they are removed, you can lift up the old bracket and chuck it in the trash!


9) Get a new bracket out and put some included silicone on the bottom of the bracket, covering the holes, being as liberally as you want. Then place over the holes.



10) Place silicone on screws, covering a good amount 360 degrees around the screw.


11) Put the screws in the hole and use the stock nuts to tighten down.


12) Use some masking tape to mark the location of the threaded holes, and put the rain gutter strips on to estimate where to drill. Drill a big enough hole to clear an M6x1.0 screw.

13) Use some threadlocker and mount Yakima Landing Pad onto roof, thread in and grab to check sturdiness.


14) Repeat for all corners! Attach the rest of the Yakima Rack (control towers and cross bars).


Enjoy!!

http://hectordtruong.blogspot.com/
 
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Discussion Starter #4
reserved for updates/questions
 

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Wow. Impressive!





:) :tup: (first)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys!
 

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I ended up using the old school yakima racks/clips and attached it to the rain gutter brackets.

This, however is even cleaner.

Slick.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the support guys.

I ended up using the old school yakima racks/clips and attached it to the rain gutter brackets.

This, however is even cleaner.

Slick.
I used to have this set up too, then I did the drill and tap method. I wasn't 100% happy so I had to do this. For those that don't know, there are other roof rack "solutions" as well but here is the round up, and why they could be inferior:

1) Stock yakima/thule set up which clips to the pillar edge above the window. Metal to metal contact and the feet sit on the paint. Horrible. You can't use window visors, and they sit fairly low.
2) Modified q-clips from 1), they basically now clip into the brackets under your gutter strip instead, but they can be stolen easily with a pry bar. Ive had mine stolen with a bunch of damage.
3) EDM Roof carrier, the most OEM of the systems but is UGLY as poop, LOUD (square bars), and sits super high, with no option for a fairing. Costs about $350ish from the UK as well.
4) Drill and tap stock brackets, this is what I had before these brackets came along, but they are mild steel, thinly stamped metal, and they will rust once you drill and tap them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Compared the original brackets to my new ones, and the old ones were all bent. I thought they were tapped straight on, but maybe the stress of the rack bent them a bit. Another reason why the stock brackets are inferior. I'll take pics of what I am talking about soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A few happy consumers already, wagon one will possibly in the works if I can get enough heads.
 

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Subscribed cuz I had the old-school Yakima "JDM" rack mod and this is simply badas* in comparison. Do want. :]
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Subscribed cuz I had the old-school Yakima "JDM" rack mod and this is simply badas* in comparison. Do want. :]
Hey Grambo, its available now :)
 

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^ I know bud. I saw your link in the sig.

My motor is in pieces right now. Priorities.;)

I'd like to get a load-warrior back on the car after I finish the other 20 mods I have laying around my garage. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^ I know bud. I saw your link in the sig.

My motor is in pieces right now. Priorities.;)

I'd like to get a load-warrior back on the car after I finish the other 20 mods I have laying around my garage. :lol:


I just recently removed mine for the season. Much better gas mileage lol
 

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Man thats clean. Holds a ton of stuff too!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
1 month, and no problems!
 

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I just recently removed mine for the season. Much better gas mileage lol
Cause it sits so high. Check this out.



Old schools + a rola vortex with no mounting hardware needed (towers hold it in place securely). :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cause it sits so high. Check this out.



Old schools + a rola vortex with no mounting hardware needed (towers hold it in place securely). :D
I'm a little concerned about the placement of those feet though, they are no way near the load bearing areas of the car, its all sheet metal there.

Cool idea about putting the crossbars through the basket to hold it though, can't do that with the load warrior.
 
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