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I still am pressing UPS to how the box was cut open the way it was, and why they said the turbo went missing for sometime.

I'm not sure if the inlet is any bigger than a vf48. I considered porting, however I may just leave it as is.

I do have a leak on a manifold and up pipe. Its from a GD chassi however as they seem to be alot more common. There is a few sight differences between the GD style and the 08+ versions, but info is scare on that.
Yes ive been seeing some jdm manifolds on nasioc or the market place but none for the 08+ sti. Interesting enough if you look on some japan parts sites, you might be able to find what you're looking for. You will probably pay a premium for new stuff like this.

 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Yes ive been seeing some jdm manifolds on nasioc or the market place but none for the 08+ sti. Interesting enough if you look on some japan parts sites, you might be able to find what you're looking for. You will probably pay a premium for new stuff like this.

The only benefit to the 08+ is that the exhaust shielding is better, and a few more mounting points. I think the 08+ also clears the the dual avcs better than the GD versions.
 

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Congrats man. That inconel 9-blade turbine wheel looks great!
 

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Cant decide if I want to port it now....
It can't hurt.. it will certainly make attaining 400whp on pump gas a bit easier 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Fixed hahah

It can't hurt.. it will certainly make blowing the motor on pump gas a bit easier 😁
I am not shooting for 400whp the first go around. I want to keep to the same power levels I have now, but just optimised. Make the power curve longer, and below 3k rpm. Once I source the STi Lightweight Flywheel and Clutch I will shoot for the 400whp club.
 

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Fixed hahah

It can't hurt.. it will certainly make blowing the motor on pump gas a bit easier 😁

I am not shooting for 400whp the first go around. I want to keep to the same power levels I have now, but just optimised. Make the power curve longer, and below 3k rpm. Once I source the STi Lightweight Flywheel and Clutch I will shoot for the 400whp club.
You won't shouldn't blow the engine. The 18 RA/19+ STI/S209 shortblock has proven to be more reliable at that power level with the revised pistons. JR is a great tuner and has a lot of experience EJ to know the safe limits on pump gas. Given your dyno numbers on your current setup on Prime's dyno, 400whp with the new turbo and ELH should be feasible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
You won't shouldn't blow the engine. The 18 RA/19+ STI/S209 shortblock has proven to be more reliable at that power level with the revised pistons. JR is a great tuner and has a lot of experience EJ to know the safe limits on pump gas. Given your dyno numbers on your current setup on Prime's dyno, 400whp with the new turbo and ELH should be feasible.
I think you are right. I do have a bit more knock now at 4k rpm. Something like -3.5 to -4.2. Air fuel learn Sometimes hits +20. I think I developed a vacuum leak from the s202 inlet
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
I think you are right. I do have a bit more knock now at 4k rpm. Something like -3.5 to -4.2. Air fuel learn Sometimes hits +20. I think I developed a vacuum leak from the s202 inlet. The group n inlets don't have any other attachment points other than the turbo and intake. It walks off the turbo under high boost situations at time
 

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I think you are right. I do have a bit more knock now at 4k rpm. Something like -3.5 to -4.2. Air fuel learn Sometimes hits +20. I think I developed a vacuum leak from the s202 inlet. The group n inlets don't have any other attachment points other than the turbo and intake. It walks off the turbo under high boost situations at times
You should definitely get that checked out. That's more knock than I'd be comfortable with (especially if it's consistent at WOT). Do you have a wideband installed? The 20%+ AFR learning is concerning since you're approaching the limits of how much fuel the tune can add on top of what's called for (in closed loop). You should definitely check to make sure that your AFRs are still within normal limits with the correction. You're probably still okay at WOT if it's just a leak near the turbo inlet, but running lean + knock isn't good for longevity :)

I've spent a lot of time fine tuning my tune to eliminate knock on the crappy ACN91 fuel that we have here in California. It's also been "fun" trying to tune for the wide variety of temperatures that we have. It's not uncommon for the temperature to be 90-100 during the day and drop to the 50-60 in the evening. I've spent a lot of time dialing in the boost control, ignition timing and fuel economy. Any consistent feedback knock in the same RPM/load zone from -1.4 to -2.8 I've worked to dial out. I still have a bit when the intake temps exceed 100 degrees, but the knock control system works fine for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Been a quiet spring so far with the RA. Just enjoying the hell out of the new power, and feverishly trying to find 2008+ Twin Scroll Headers for the VF58 swap over the winter.

This past weekend I took the new setup for its first track day at Pocono. My buddy in his 425whp STi Hatch came along to try out his setup as well.

Typical NEPA Pocono Autocross is more of a high speed track sprint which I absolutely love compared to the parking lot events. You definitely get your money worth at these events. Lots of high speed sweepers and many slaloms.







Brought along my girlfriend's father and gave him some seat time.





Funny Enough hot lapping the car with 2 drivers on such a high speed course the car did quite well. The only issue I had was the power steering reservoir puked a bit. I do have the level a tad high, but that fluid got hot as hell with all the slaloms. I have the Spec C return cooler, but may need to upgrade to the Group N unit that mounts in the front.

 

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I'm fascinated by what you're doing here. Awesome work!

You have a great parts list, but I'm curious if you could list out your part #s and where you found them in that list? Might be helpful to us all. In general I'm curious if you have a primary source for finding some of the rare non-USDM parts? Mostly japanparts.com? I'm personally looking for the EJ25 Final Edition trunk emblem from Australia but I can't find it anywhere and have no idea what the part # is.

Also curious, is the rear stripe on the RA / S209 actually STI cherry blossom red or is it just the standard red or hot pink vinyl you can commonly get aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Been a quiet year so far with the RA. Been driving it and enjoying the incredible Stage 3 Setup. Still looking for the V10 Twin Scroll Header for the Vf58 I plan to install in the Spring.

But, today this showed up from Japan.











This is the new rear draw stiffener for the Levorg STi and the new chassi. The theory from Subaru is that there are many sheet metal panels that are spot welded together back there that have flex. This draw stiffener preloads these different panels and keeps them from flexing.

The JDM/EDM does not have the rear crash beam like the USDM models do. Our cars have that rear brace for crashes 5mph and below. So I assume that it offers nothing in the way of chassi rigidity. The JDM Type RA-R from 2018 I know for sure didn't have one as well.

I plan to adapt this to the VA chassi. I know of one other person who has this stiffener yet has not taken the bumper off to see what fitment is like. I assume the bolt holes wont line up, but nothing a simple aluminum plate on each side cant fix. I am curious if there is a difference. People who have installed this on their Levorgs state the difference is noticeable when there is a quick change in direction. This holds up to what I experienced with all the other stiffeners on the RA. Should be a fun project
 

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Very cool. Looking forward to seeing how that rear draw stiffener could fit. I, like you, am a major fan of the OEM upgrades offered over in Japan.

Glad you’ve just been enjoying the car! Sometimes it’s hard to step back and do that when in the thick of build plans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Very cool. Looking forward to seeing how that rear draw stiffener could fit. I, like you, am a major fan of the OEM upgrades offered over in Japan.

Glad you’ve just been enjoying the car! Sometimes it’s hard to step back and do that when in the thick of build plans.
I think as the new STi comes out, and it brings in a whole new generation of Subaru enthusiasts a lot of this EJ era OEM+ stuff will be forgotten. Trying my best to build something I can always hop into to remember what the pinnicle of 90's awd boxer turbo technology felt like. Feel like my old man growing up always enjoying his muscle cars and carbs while EFI and Boost became mainstream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
I was convinced that the Levorg STi Draw Stiffener would need some modification to bolt onto the VA chassi. The only other VA owner who has one told me he also thought it would need modification, however he had not had time to test fit it.

So I was able to climb under the car and slip one of the brackets under the bumper and up to the crash beam. To my shock the holes were close. Damn close. I thought, no way....leave it to Subaru. I was convinced it would bolt on.

So, today I set to work.

Bumper Removed. I suggest taking the time to run painters tape along all the edges so nothing gets scratched.







I mocked everything up and it fits OEM! The brackets have two possible mounting locations. Only the outer holes can be used which is what the instructions call for. This can be mounted with or without the rear crash beam. The rear beam is a USDM only piece, and the JDM cars dont have anything back there. So I removed the 18lb beam to see if it made any difference as well.








I also took the time to polish the STI Performance Mufflers



Went for a long spirited drive and here are my impressions.

Does it work? Yes. Subaru, claims this preloads the rear body and it absorbs more road vibrations, cracks, and bumps. They also claim in makes the rear and front of the car move together during quick changes of directions instead of the rear following the front. It does exactly that. Just like the front draw stiffeners, when you turn the wheel it turns instantly. The precision is insane. The ride quality was the biggest surprise. Bumps that used to make you cringe if you hit them were now almost gone.

I thought it was placebo, but Lexus uses these from the factory on their F-Sport models for a more luxury ride quality with their stiffer suspension their customers want. So they do work.

Overall, its not night and day like a swaybar upgrade is. But with most of Subaru's OEM performance parts they are all packaged together to create a setup that is greater than the sum of their parts. Individually they wont wow you, but together it creates a car that gives you confidence.

 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
The Type RA-R Carbon mirrors were always on my list of wants for the RA. It was definitely lower on the list as I lean more towards the performance side of rare parts, but those mirrors are just a JDM flex I had to have.

The price for them new at $800+ always kept me from buying them. When I saw a used set come up for sale on the forums I hit the Paypal button faster than I ever have lol.





Subaru claims that every ounce counted when it came to the RA-R. They were not kidding haha













 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
The final pieces to the twin scroll swap have arrived thanks to good friend Nick who also helped me get my VF58.

He collected literally everything I will need to make this swap 99% OEM. All the gaskets, oil and water lines, header, and downpipe.

The S208 Equal length header is a thing of beauty for an OEM piece. The downpipe is also a lot higher quality than the garbage we get here in the US. Bellmouth, single cat, and the diameter is larger all the way through!






I have decided for now I want to try out the JDM Twin Scroll Downpipe to see what it can make on the Dyno before I go full 3". It will definitely flow better than a USDM piece, but maybe not what a full 3" can obviously. A Stage 1 S209 makes around 345/345. I should be able to beat those numbers with a broader power band for sure.






I decided not to go with the ported P25 Exhaust housing as I didn't want to risk shipping this turbo to California and back and have it lost again. After looking at the OEM gaskets and comparing it to the parts I am now second guessing. There is a lot of material able to be taken off of the match.




I may just get everything running with the 99% OEM setup, and see what it can do. I plan to have Prime Motoring and JR tune the car in the Spring as they absolutely killed it on my current setup.

The next step would be to have Prime install the STi Performance Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel, and while thats being done retune with a 3" Downpipe, Vermont Sports Car Bored Throttle Body, and I am going to send the intake manifold and Intercooler Y pipe to Extrude Hone in PA to port out those pieces as much as possible.
 

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It's such a shame to see Nick having to give up on his build. However, it is also fantastic to see you taking all these wonderful hardware for you build, they could not have gone to a better person than you. Car communities such as this place never cease to amaze me, even if it is not as active these days when compared to 10 or 20 years ago.
 
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