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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone with 04 STi service manual check a wire?

Ok first of all, let me say this... the mod worked fine and did a REALLY good job. So without further ado...

Planning to have a 5 minutes install on my hand I went into my workshop and went at it. I felt like such a genius knowing where everything is and in the locating and such. Removed hose from actuator/compressor. So now I have that T (the t right after the 3/16" mod for those who did it) and then I go to put the MBC in. This is where Im starting to think TXS quality is missing. I have 3 wire ties to hold the hose down... there are 4 connections. The hose isnt even long enough to get ONE side to where they want it mounted (As there was only one hose and it wasnt long enough to get one side to where they said to put it... that and I couldnt even cut it to get the MBC to fit anywhere). So I go... ok no big deal, put the stock pieces back on and head to advanced. They dont have the right hose, but have one like it and get home and find out its not the right size or strength. Go back to AAP and get the right hose (this time I just road with a friend - as I did not want to redo everything again). Get some more hose, hook it all up and vuala, my 5 minutes job is now a 3 hour job. Anyways, I use some blue wire ties I bought along wit hthe new hose and get everything working (i had to mount it right on the a/c bracket on the far left of the intercooler). Now I go out to test and tune.... WOOOO boost comes on SOOOO fast now. 1st / 2nd /3rd 70 in under 5 seconds. So then I start tweaking.... yup you all know what is coming. I eventually get it to .11 MPa (~15.XX psi) and Im trying for about .12MPa (17.2psi). So instead of using the coarse setting I use the fine setting. Did 1 full turn I think and my boost didnt seem to move... at all... so then I say ok... I'll just turn the coarse a little bit. Turn it about 1/2 a turn and vuala. Im running just at .12 MPa (17.2psi)... the problem is , is that Im in 3rd and I dont realize this. Into 4th I go and BAM I dont know what it was but holy #### was it like hitting a wall. I think it was boost cut, because it didnt seem to be spiking at all. It just went up and a little past .12MPa and then it dropped and then it felt like i just tried shifting without giving any gas (a very hard slam / kick in the face). I dont know how else to explain it. I go ok no big deal, I'll just turn it down. Then I look down and wammmo CEL and Cruise light. So now Im going to go check that out on NASIOC or wherever it is and fix it. So in short:

Good: FAST FAST spool up, Tuning of PSI is awsome, easy install if they'd include all the parts needed
Bad: Missing / Doesnt have enough parts to do what it even asks. Hoses are missing, Wire ties/Clamps missing. Really sucks when you pay $1XX for a thing the size of 1/2 a dollar and its missing stuff.
Question: Do you think that I just hit boost cut and that a hose popped off to cause the CEL and blinking Cruise lights?

Thanks!

Robert~
Good:
 

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I would imagine when you hit boost cut, that is what caused the CEL. Do you have a OBD-II tool or access to one? Pull the code and see what caused the CEL. You can also reset the ECU and that should get rid of the CEL. If you need the DTC, you can refer to HERE. I can also e-mail you the PDF file if you wish.

You have to be conservative and careful with the MBC. There are possibility of reliability issues with long term use. To get the proper boost setting, you will have to make runs in all the gears cause the boost is going to vary from gear to gear. When I had the MBC on my car, I set the peak boost in 4th or 5th gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ya I understand... I was excited that I had finally gotten done and wanted to try it out. I reset the ECU, turn the coarse setting down 1/2 a turn and now its perfect. ~1.11 MPA in 4th (~16.X psi). That way by 5-6th it will be ~1.2 and then I wont have to worry about boost cut or anything. Im going to wait for some cash to roll in and then probably grab an EBC such as the Blitz OBD-IC or if the UTEC will do it, then that (Since that will be my main mod - when a price and date is released). Otherwise, it was a GREAT mod. I've never been in a car so fast. The mod is worth every dime. Very smooth and consistant (if you havent figured it out... FAST) boosting. Only complaint (now that Im over the CEL I was freaking out about) is that TurboXS for $129 needs to add some freaking supplies. Extra hoses/clamps/etc would be nice (or at least the right amount). As im sure it wouldnt kill their profits. Anyways. GREAT mod and definitely recommended, but like stiperformance said... take it easy and when you hit close to the ~17 psi (or 1.2MPa) then dont try to get any closer lol... give yourself some play room. Anyways.... Hope this helps

Robert~

and with your setup hummer I couldnt imagine how fast spool up would be (since you have the full TBE). Man... you would like this mod. Everything is so freaking fast and responsive now and it isnt jerky or anything and is really smooth so I love it. GL and let me know what you decide to go with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
stiperformance said:
I would imagine when you hit boost cut, that is what caused the CEL. Do you have a OBD-II tool or access to one? Pull the code and see what caused the CEL. You can also reset the ECU and that should get rid of the CEL. If you need the DTC, you can refer to HERE. I can also e-mail you the PDF file if you wish.
also, sorry to post so much, but if theres a CEL code for running too rich or lean... then would that mean that having a new BOV and such, IF it was running your car rich enough to matter, would throw a CEL? That'd answer a lot of questions with the whole "dont get a BOV cause you'll be running rich ordeal (as I love my BOV and it hasnt caused any problems and doesnt seem to be running rich at all). *shrug* just wonderin. Thanks

Robert~
 

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Re: Diamond audio

I am not sure if running super rich would throw a CEL or not. I believe when a CEL is thrown, the car will run richer than normal. I don't have a EGT gauge to prove it though.

Yeah, the TXS HPBC should come with a longer hose and clamps. I had the same problem with mine, but I had hose laying around that I used. I also managed to slide the factory clamps over the larger hose.
 

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Congrats on the install. I hate mods where you don't have everything that is required{from the manufacturer}. It sounds like you have it in the sweet spot now.

I am not going to put in a mbc. I am going to St. Louis next month for Xede and dyno tune. I beleive the Xede adjusts the boost? I need to read and research a little more

I also have the headers sitting here. I only received one gasket for the manifold. How the hell did I only get one gasket???? My 2 cylinder GEO STi. The other gasket should be here tomorrow. I will put them on Tuesday or Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lol 1 gasket? I guess thats a little worse then not enough hose/clamps. Xede I believe is just a piggy back computer, but it might be able to adjust boost (either way you're running close to ~17 psi anyways I believe). So you should be good. That and your car will be killer with an upgraded ecu. PLEASE take as many notes as you can, Im dyin to hear what an ecu upgrade will do (or piggy back or whatever) good luck!

Robert~

here you go buddy, this should cut your research time down:

XEDE Technical Specifications

1200 possible adjustments on the standard New Age WRX program
0.1% accuracy on MAF and MAP adjustments
0.1degree accuracy on timing adjustments
Accurate reproduction of reluctor type timing signals, not just of triggering edge
Direct plug-in adaptor (no cutting or splicing required)
Fully sealed, rugged, and lightweight housing
Support for hall and reluctor type crank and / or cam timing signals
Support for analog or frequency MAF and MAP / load signals
One additional 10-bit analog input
One auxiliary digital input / output
Internal storage space for up to 12 tuning maps
Built-in boost control <<<< LOOK HERE ;)
Built-in knock signal adjust feature
Self-configurable load axis, input and output variables, adjustment range, and math function for each map
'Map Select' input to change between one of two unique tuning maps
Two high-current Pulse Width Modulation outputs
Remotely installable bi-color status LED

EDIT: http://vishnutuning.com/xede_wrx.htm
that might be of some help too... scroll down and they hvae their own different premade maps you can use (features like valet and such will be useful).
 
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