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FWIW, the AVCS hard line can come out without removing the intake manifold. I saw it mentioned once in this thread, so I attempted it while replacing my turbo this weekend. There's a 10mm bolt under where the intake manifold splits, and this bolt is the only thing holding the AVCS line to the motor. Once I cut the ends off the line, and the bolt was out, I pushed it all the way forward...cut off the part that stuck out, then pulled it off the back side of the motor.

Note: I did this with the turbo off. I'm not sure how easy it would be with the turbo on, and in the way.
 

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FWIW, the AVCS hard line can come out without removing the intake manifold. I saw it mentioned once in this thread, so I attempted it while replacing my turbo this weekend. There's a 10mm bolt under where the intake manifold splits, and this bolt is the only thing holding the AVCS line to the motor. Once I cut the ends off the line, and the bolt was out, I pushed it all the way forward...cut off the part that stuck out, then pulled it off the back side of the motor.

Note: I did this with the turbo off. I'm not sure how easy it would be with the turbo on, and in the way.
At your convenience,could you possibly show said bolt in a picture of like an above view of the I/M?
 

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I apologize for the double post,but I did this and now my car's being really weird.It idles fine,but when I start trying to go,it sounds like it's about to die.
 

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^And that has to do with your AVCS?
I was wondering if there could've been something that someone might've done similar to me when doing this mod.I cut the old AVCS line,replaced it with the needed materials and now this happens.

The line that comes from the back of the block is leaking though,could that possibly be the problem?I e-mailed ANplumbing to let them know about the line too.

Edit:Actually I don't think the leaking line could be the problem,because it was leaking before and it didn't do that.Sorry,didn't think that one all the way through.
 

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This is great just had my line crack.
I did find all the parts at AN Plumbing
the part number for the 12mm banjo fitting was 997645ERL

Total price is coming out to $78.56 pre tax/ shipping

Not sure if any of this was previously mentioned I didn't take the time to read through everything.
 

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I used the AN plumbing premade sections the first time I got rid of the hard line. But after one winter the ends became corroded/rusted and needed to be replaced. I have since replaced them with -4AN lines and fittings I cut to size and after 2 years they still look brand new.

If your car is a daily driver and might see a lot of winter conditions might be a consideration to think about.
 

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A leak could be caused from the "Copper Washers" being over torqued. Copper is soft...it can leak from the washer being "crushed" causing a leak from the top of the banjo bolt.

My technician explained and physically showed me the issue and how it got fixed.
 

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A few weeks ago I stopped at a gas station and noticed blue/white smoke coming out of my hood-scoop. A quick inspection led me to believe it was the copper washer on the banjo-bolt going through the AVCS line and into the back of the block, in fact it was the AVCS line itself. A bit of research revealed that I wasn't the only one who had encountered this problem, but I still had difficulty getting the information and parts I needed for a fix in a timely manner, so when all was said and done, I decided to do this write-up.

Many people have problems with the turbo oil-feed line, as it is very easy to damage while working on or swapping turbos. However, this write-up is for replacement of the entire turbo oil-feed/AVCS line.



This is a pic of the line I'm talking about (without the section that runs under the manifold). The top section is technically the turbo oil-feed line, which mates to the AVCS line at the flare fitting.

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The entire line runs from the top of the turbo (1), down to the back of the block (2), then under the intake manifold and around front to the AVCS unit (3) like so...

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All three connections are banjo fittings/bolts, and all three are different. The turbo banjo-bolt is 10mm/1.5 thread pitch, and the bolt itself is a restrictor, as the hole in it is about the size of a ballpoint pin head (sorry, no pic). The AVCS banjo-bolts are both 12mm/1.25 thread pitch (metric), but slightly different from each other. Here's a closer look at these two bolts...

The bolt on the left goes around front to the AVCS unit, and has no filter, the one on the right goes to the back of the block, and contains a filter.

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Here's a macro of the filter...

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Removal of this filter is at your discretion, I reinstalled mine, and suggest (as Subaru would) you do the same. If you do reinstall the filter, make sure to blow it out before reinstallation to clear any contaminants that may be present.

My suggestion is that you re-use the turbo and block banjo-bolts, along with their respective copper crush-washers, and replace the AVCS banjo-bolt/fitting with the 90° metric fitting/hose in my parts list (64192016), installing a crush-washer between the AVCS unit and the fitting. The reason I used an after-market 90° fitting around front at the AVCS unit instead of the OE banjo-bolt/fitting was simply for ease of fittment.

NOTE: Some people have had sealing problems with using a single crush-washer on the banjo-bolt at the back of the block, requiring an additional washer to get a good seal.



The tools you'll need are:

- Dremel tool, or some sort of cutting device for the AVCS hard-line
- Ratchet w/long and short extension + 10mm, 12mm & 14mm
- 10mm, 17mm & 9/16 wrenches
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Shop towels
- Brakleen

The order of removal is:

- Negative battery terminal
- Air intake (2 10mm bolts)
- Airbox lid & bottom (flathead, 2 12mm bolts)
- Turbo heat-shield (3 10mm bolts)
- Passenger side up-pipe securing bracket (1 14mm nut, 1 14mm bolt)
- Cut AVCS line in front and back
- Front AVCS banjo bolt (1 17mm)
- Turbo banjo bolt (1 14mm)
- Block banjo bolt (1 17mm)

The parts you need are:

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NOTE: Some prefer a 14" line instead of the 16" line I have listed above, either will work, but if you like things nice and tidy, go with the 14".

Once you get everything back in place, pull the coin holder out and look at the fuse chart on the back. Pull the one labeled IGN, mine was a yellow 12, but yours may be different. Crank the car a few times to prime the line and turbo, then replace the fuse. One other thing you should know is that my cruise control light started blinking 2 miles into my test drive, but turning the car off and back on again made it stop. I suspect it has something to do with the MAF being unhooked, but I'm not certain.

NOTE: When I put everything back together I left off the turbo heat-shield, and the up-pipe bracket so that when I took a short drive, I could see if anything was still leaking.

MANY THANKS to jnorth85 and lobelsteve for all the info and putting up with me :).



Some random shots.

The weak silver solder that causes the problem. I haven't torn the line itself apart to see where the problem actually starts...yet.

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The front AVCS line when cut + new fitting/hose.

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The new line installed.

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If you have any questions just ask :).
Can I just drill out the restrictor and remove the filter from the block banjo fitting to get better oil flow to the turbo?
 
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