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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone here play with the dccd just to save some tyre wear? Had a thought that perhaps letting it running on fwd a little or rwd would reduce tyre wear.. Any thoughts?

Need to reset it each time though when I start the car.


Also heard some knocking sound (dccd setting to front bias) and from what I've seen it's normal =D

Just gotten the car 2 days ago, still exploring this 17 year or new toy of mine =)
 

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Making it make noises is not good and will cost more than whole sets of tires . . .
 

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Ummm i dont think thats how the dccd system works. The dccd system doesnt directly effect tire wear. Just like how mheyman said, your going to have alot more problems besides tire wear if your dccd is causing noise. There is alot more science to the complexity of the system besides making the car feel as if its a forward or rear bias lol.

To keep it short and simple:
Full lock should ONLY ever be used in absolute terrible road and driving conditions where you absolulty need to keep the front of the car straight at all times. No turns what so ever should be made while in full lock.

Its recommended to just keep the car in full auto mode under normal road conditions.
 

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The DCCD does not make the car more FWD or more RWD. It's a center differential with an adjustable amount of locking.

Think of it like this... an open diff will send all the power to the path of least resistance. So on a RWD car with an open diff, if one wheel loses traction, then all the power goes to that wheel and you do a one wheel burnout. A locked diff will force both wheels to turn at the same rate always no matter what. Which is great for traction in slippery conditions. If one wheel starts to slip, all the other wheels still continue on exactly the same. But it's not great for dry pavement... if you go around a tight turn, the outside wheel has to go further than the inside wheel. Which makes the inside wheel lock and hop and be generally unhappy.

The center diff in our cars is like that, but between the front and back wheels. If it's locked, then the front and back wheels turn at the same rate always. Great for traction and makes for a really unhappy car on dry pavement. Fully opening the DCCD makes the car kinda act like rwd because the STi's front/rear torque split is rear biased. And the rear of the car is lighter than the front. So usually the rear tires break loose sooner than the front and (like an open diff) the center diff keeps sending power to the wheels that are spinning. But theoretically if you had the front tires on ice and the rears on dry pavement in open mode, you could pretty much sit and do a fat FWD burnout.

As far as what modes to use when... yup, all the modes are there to use and have fun with. But not all modes are good or healthy for the car to use on dry pavement. Play around and see what you like, but that "knocking" binding sound is the diff being really unhappy.

Fun fact: when Bucky Lasek was doing gymkhana type laps sliding a new STi around at Rocky Mountain Subaru Fest a few years ago, a buddy of mine got a ridealong with him. Bucky said he likes to always run the car with the diff fully locked for that kind of stuff because it makes the car more predictable. Not sure if he'd still choose that option if he owned the car he was driving, but still pretty neat.
 

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But besides full lock, aren't those other modes for us to enjoy and have fun with it?
Play with them? No, not on dry pavement. On gravel or snow. There you'll find a significant improvement in traction.

If you are making you car make "bad" noises or any noise you don't know what it is assume it's bad, it probably not good for the car. Any unidentified noise!!!

Example for newbies - why I promote buying new STis over used . . .
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gotcha guys.. Thanks for the tips.. Will be leaving it on auto from now on. Won't be going off tarmac road anytime soon here =)

The noise that I said was normal was the diff lock, I said it was normal because I read that it tends to happen, but that noise freak the heck out of me...

Yea I prefer new over used too, but there's no more blob or eagle eyes brand new =D

Now only one more thing to fix later.. The rotating knocking sound during acceleration from the left rear side of the car, set in auto still hears it.. Hope it won't cost too much..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The one from the back should be axel I guess..
Hope it's not too costly to fix later on.
It only happens during acceleration though.. Off gas its quiet.
So far this dream of mine is not going that smoothly, I guess what it needs is some tlc =)
 

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A GD is worth some effort :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You don't say =D

My first toy car and I guess it'll be a journey to fix it up itself...

Braking also caused the wheel to vibrate, let alone the power steering isn't working, and yesterday during a cold start, it worked and it made noise when turning the wheel.

Oh and the fuel gauge, if only it goes down slower. =)
 

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To keep it short and simple:
Full lock should ONLY ever be used in absolute terrible road and driving conditions where you absolulty need to keep the front of the car straight at all times. No turns what so ever should be made while in full lock.
Stop being a purveyor of false information, and talking to things you dont understand. I can easily huck an STi in full lock down a drit track or around a rainy road course while making many many turns.
What you are suggesting is nonsense and speaks to your lack of understanding of the fundamentals of the car you own.

Full lock locks the F-R bias of the center differential. At slow speeds this can cause popping and grinding. Having a fixed F-R bias pays huge dividends in consistency when attacking a road with a loose surface, a dirt track, a snowy lot, or even an ill advised romp down a snowmobile track ;)

My preferred snow antics setting is full lock to one step down for repeatable shenanigans.

Bro a lot of what you say scares me. No hard throttle in 6th gear ever.

If you do serious speed please at the least make sure your tires, brakes, and suspension are capable. Can't stress this enough.
Ugh, this too. WTH happened to this forum? Where did all the GD Guru's go??

Dont burry the throttle in sixth cruising at 60mph, but even a stock STi can make a mad pull to redline in 6th gear without consequence. If you bogg it and floor it in any gear you are inviting knock and problems.

Again, dont parrot things you read but didnt understand. Im going back to my cave on the sprinter Forums where every other poster isnt a 19y/o kid parading as Ken Block or his mechanic.
 

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Stop being a purveyor of false information, and talking to things you dont understand. I can easily huck an STi in full lock down a drit track or around a rainy road course while making many many turns.
What you are suggesting is nonsense and speaks to your lack of understanding of the fundamentals of the car you own.

Full lock locks the F-R bias of the center differential. At slow speeds this can cause popping and grinding. Having a fixed F-R bias pays huge dividends in consistency when attacking a road with a loose surface, a dirt track, a snowy lot, or even an ill advised romp down a snowmobile track ;)

My preferred snow antics setting is full lock to one step down for repeatable shenanigans.



Ugh, this too. WTH happened to this forum? Where did all the GD Guru's go??

Dont burry the throttle in sixth cruising at 60mph, but even a stock STi can make a mad pull to redline in 6th gear without consequence. If you bogg it and floor it in any gear you are inviting knock and problems.

Again, dont parrot things you read but didnt understand. Im going back to my cave on the sprinter Forums where every other poster isnt a 19y/o kid parading as Ken Block or his mechanic.
Ok pal, my "lack of understanding" LoL. Who even are you btw? Go ahead, keep on ken blocking it, by all means its your car. I personally would not make that kind of recommendation for others. Especially for someone who is asking questions about it meaning they themselves dont understand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wow things are hearing up.. Keep it cool bros =D

Ive shifting up the gears before I reached six.. Doing a slow cruise then only softly but surely giving the throttle a push and then slowly the turbo comes in ard 3k rpm.. And it the speedo went up until 130kmh..81mph.. I had my 5 yr old with me at that time so not doin any crazy...

Anyways this car is new to me, what I've known all these years are all subaru team USA fault, no thanks to that Ken block too with his gymkhana practice =D

So the dccd thingy I've been experimenting with it earlier and those knocking noise came out, so I went on to check at this forum, very thankful to have such a good bunch of folks who take time to help or just mess around =P

Anyways went to a machanic to have the car looked into, engine oil was leaking, so the rocker cover was the cause.. So I'm not going to drive it much for now, he said it was risky and might cause fire eh..

Now how do I sharw a photo here using my phone.. Let me try again and see =D
 
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