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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just this past Thursday I had a performance alignment done at a very reputable place. I had just installed the Prodrive springs on my '05. The results of the alignment were:

Front Left Camber = -1.8 deg
Front Right Camber = -2.0 deg
PDE plates set to ~ +4.6 deg positive caster.

I had asked for all fours to have zero toe, and he made the adjustments. This past weekend, I autocrossed the car, with bad results. The backend was SOOO loose, I was coning alot and even spun out. Thinking it was my skillz (or lack thereof), I asked a national champion driver to take it for a spin. He too had the back end of the car all squirmy, and he also spun out. :tdown: He commented how he drove an STi a few runs before, and it was no where as loose as mine was.

So I was so curious about what the heck is going on, I stumbled upon Nick's DYI camber adjustment thread (string method), and I got the following results:

Front Left Toe: 0
Front Right Toe: 6mm out
Rear Left Toe: 4mm out
Rear Right Toe: 3mm out

Could these settings be the reason why the rear was so loose? Or are these values not enough to make that much of a handling difference? Also, what toe should I be running in the rear, I have heard people say everything (Zero Toe, Some Toe in, Some Toe out) :confused:
 

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3-4mm of toe out is certainly enough to make the rear very umm...responsive. I'd have it realigned if I were you. Or you can adjust the toe yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So today I went back to the place to get it re-aligned. One thing that we found to be the problem is that the mechanic was using Hunter's '04 STi settings. I had told him that the '05 had a 5.1 cm wider wheel base then the front (which is different than the '04), and he called up Hunter. They gave him some values to offset the alignment machine. Got it all aligned, and I test drove it (on normal street driving, nothing extreme). The car didn't seem to pull, so I thought I was all set to go. I then used the string method to measure the rear toe, and this time I found that it was toed in about 3mm on the rear right side! He was baffled... He ended up giving me my money back and told me to go to another shop and use a different machine.

My question is, the string method is universally known to be pseudo-accurate right? (More accurate than being 3 mm off)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
johnlude85 said:
id leave the rear toe at zero. i do alot of alignments (including peoples who are into auto corssing) and alot of people set the rear to zero. the camber is a different story.
johnlude85, I agree.. I had asked for zero all around, but these are the results that netted them trying to make it zero.. :tdown:
 

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STEye said:
johnlude85, I agree.. I had asked for zero all around, but these are the results that netted them trying to make it zero.. :tdown:
i hear ya. you can toe in the front a bit, but put it just inside the parameters of the factory specs so it still stays in the green. you defenately dont want prematuer tire wear. theese tires arent cheap.
 

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STEye said:
johnlude85, I agree.. I had asked for zero all around, but these are the results that netted them trying to make it zero.. :tdown:

I just put my KW Varient 3 on yesterday, and JUST got my alignment done about 2hours ago

Front Left Front Right
-2.0 Camber -2.0
4.7 Caster 4.6
.01 Toe -.01
17.1 SAI 16.9
15.0 Included Angle 15..0


Rear Left Rear Right
-1.5 Camber -1.5
.01 Toe -.01



Now I know you are using a different camber plate in the front. You might have added to much + caster and cannot correct the toe difference. If you add more camber in the front, I bet you would correct the staight line toe. NOw I wouldnt know if you want that much front camber. If you PM I might be able to ask you some questions that could help you.


VAN

*edit just read your caster deg.... forget me. Hmmm I have no idea why they couldnt Zero it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just did the toe check using the string method again, and I get the following results:

Front Left: .5mm toe out
Front Right: 4mm toe in
Front Left Camber: -1.4 deg
Front Right Camber: -1.8 deg

Rear Left: 1mm toe in
Rear Right: 6mm toe in


On the alignment machine, it showed zero toe on all fours. The camber bolts are max negative, and the camber plates are 2 positions away from full negative camber, so the only way he could give it more neg. camber is by putting the PDE plates two more steps to max. Just as a reference, people usually put the PDE plates to 6 steps away from max, and get -2 deg camber for the street, and when setting PDE's to the max, they get -3 deg.

Interestingly, the front left camber WAS -2.0 deg camber the first alignment, now it is -1.4.. !?!? It's also strange that with all these bad settings, the car doesn't really pull!

Something isn't right at all, and I'm going to go to a different alignment shop to see if a different place gets different results.
 

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hum what kinda alignment machine did these shop's use? just find a shop with a good machine. laser would be best. some ppl do it old school with plates. Also doesn't string stretch try wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
They have a 20 year old Hunter.. It has some kinda laser/IR sensors on all four. This is just bizarre, as he has done some subaru's before.

I'm probably just going to bring it to my best friend's work. He's a mechanic at a dealership. Hopefully he can get me squared away. I use fishing line for the string method, as stated in Nick's DYI: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63527
 
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