IW STi Forum banner

1941 - 1958 of 1958 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,941 (Edited)
I got the head gaskets flipped and fired her back up in about 13 man hours. The header wrap soaked up so much oil it smoked me out of the garage. I let it idle for roughly 12 minutes at 2500-3k rpm then shut it off. Not 1 drop hit the ground and I could watch the smoke roll off of the headers. I washed the car twice and poured the soapy water all over the engine to rid it of oil. It did a little bit. I've driven it 8 miles; throughout my neighborhood, to the corner store and back home. Alot of the smoke is gone. I've crawled under it and saw what looked like a thin, clear oil spot on the back corner of the driver side head. I washed the back of the engine and heads to see if it was just run off from the top since I could see a thin trail going up the back of the head. I drove to to the store and home after and checked under the car today and there's a puddle under there now... I rubbed my hand on the back side of the head and didn't feel anything more than a light film so idk. Maybe a coolant leak? My coolant was low this morning so I'll go get a leak tester and check. It's driving me nuts because the water on top of the engine is boiling when I gother back home. I can hear all of the coolant boiling. I topped off the coolant this morning so we'll see.

The car isn't inspected nor registered so tomorrow I'll drive it dirty to get inspected then to get it registered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,942 (Edited)
I ended up pressure testing the coolant system and my radiator was seeping. I got another one locally and went for a test drive. I found the source of the oil leak. It was a minor gap in the sealant for the valve cover.

Here's where the bad news comes in. When I got back from the test drive, I saw smoke from the exhaust. I let it cool down and opened the coolant reservoir and it was bubbling after I started it up and the oil level was high and runny. So, once again, I pulled the engine and took the heads off. I went ahead and replaced the head gaskets again but when I pulled the second head... I saw a gouge in the mating surface where the fire ring is. I had to take it to a local machine shop to fill it and resurface the head.




Got the heads back on and just haven't had ANY motivation to get it back together since I've been waiting to get my title from the CA DMV for 2 weeks now. I don't need to get it inspected but I need the title to get it registered which will come with a 1 year inspection. I did however repaint my engine bay. It's not a perfect match but it sure looks better than it did all scraped up and bare metal since fuel hit the paint and ate it away.



I'm now on assignment to Ft. Riley, KS which is an hour from 2 different regions for autoX and one of those hosting events at Heartland Park which I would absolutely love to join NASA in some HPDE.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,944 (Edited)
Nicely done! Looks a whole lot better now. Shaved the battery tray too?
Yes. The post describing the process is here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4298647-post1935.html

I contacted the lead NASA tech and I need to flip the battery so the negative is by the fender well and add some super thick rubber or plastic between the battery and fender well also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,945
I recently got back from another overseas deployment/rotation. I have created a facebook journal for the car to document the cars life since it easier to post pics and comments.

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti

I uninstalled the twin disk as it just wasn't daily friendly and ordered an ACT sprung 6 puck disk, HD pressure plate and Streetlite flywheel. I checked the lash and found it to be way out of spec so I'm waiting for the 11 buckets I ordered to arrive (only 2 were good but can move the other three to other valves). I also had to get another battery and got an Optima Red Top and battery tray from Billet Proof again. The car should be in perfect running condition and daily driver friendly again this weekend. I had to apply for a lost title since I couldn't find my original so I can finally register it and start driving it 😄

I also made a tool like the Company 23 cam gear tool since I have the Turn in Concepts 17mm cam gear bolts.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
I recently got back from another overseas deployment/rotation. I have created a facebook journal for the car to document the cars life since it easier to post pics and comments.

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti

I uninstalled the twin disk as it just wasn't daily friendly and ordered an ACT sprung 6 puck disk, HD pressure plate and Streetlite flywheel. I checked the lash and found it to be way out of spec so I'm waiting for the 11 buckets I ordered to arrive (only 2 were good but can move the other three to other valves). I also had to get another battery and got an Optima Red Top and battery tray from Billet Proof again. The car should be in perfect running condition and daily driver friendly again this weekend. I had to apply for a lost title since I couldn't find my original so I can finally register it and start driving it 😄

I also made a tool like the Company 23 cam gear tool since I have the Turn in Concepts 17mm cam gear bolts.

I have the ACT 6-puck clutch, do really think the twin disk is worst as a daily?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,947
The car is running and I don't notice any difference between the 6 puck and the full face disk. I don't have any chatter nor marble sounds from the tranny. Engagement is just as smooth as the HDSS kit.

Upon cleaning and further inspection of the twin disk, it looks like the alignment tool didn't have the two disks lined up. The rigid disk (closest to the flywheel) has damaged splines. Weird because I never forced the tranny and engine together. I wonder if that played a factor in the symptoms I had. I'll keep it and replace the disk for when this 6 puck goes out. If nothing else, it'll be good to sell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,949
Got a ton of stuff for xmas. Got a front lip, side skirt extensions and rear spats. I ordered a couple wires to fix my defi gauges, got a turbo blanket, dash cam, ss clutch line and other stuff for the shop. Most of it is installed.

The car has an oil leak on the driver side but I need to get under it with the UV light since I added dye. It also steams from the uppipe near the turbo but everything is dry. I even put coolant dye in and nothing 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ Just threw a couple codes yesterday p0011 an p0021 so I'm going to log the OCV duty cycle and AVCS tonight. 450 miles on the build so not sure why they just popped up.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
How come you dont run the built in EFR BPV? Just curious

Also...what dye did you use? I have an oil leak that I'm not sure is out of the rear main seal, oil pan or rear oil sep plate. I seen a bunch on amazon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,951
How come you dont run the built in EFR BPV? Just curious

Also...what dye did you use? I have an oil leak that I'm not sure is out of the rear main seal, oil pan or rear oil sep plate. I seen a bunch on amazon.
I like the sound of the sport q lol

I used the AutoPro UV dye from autozone. Worked like a champ. Having yellow glasses isnt necessary, just helps the dye pop. You do need a UV light though.




I also made a template for a splitter; 4" from the lip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,952
Through working on cars on the side, I have finally been able to finish and schedule a tune! Cant wait to have her back in full stride!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,688 Posts
Update on status and current changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,954
I've updated my mod list in the first post.

I taught my son and reinstalled the ID1000s since I feel like the ID1700s would be too much for 91 octane.
58272


I drove the car to work today with no smoke or any issues for the first time in almost 5 years!! o_O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,955
Got the car to the tuner aaaaaaand, it spun a fucking bearing in the dyno after they tried 3 methods to fix the boost creep it had. Picking the car up on Monday.

I contacted Tial and they feel the boost control issues stemmed from the new turbo flowing a considerable amount of more air coupled with both my valve and the tested 3 port having too small of fittings (my old one had the upgraded 1/4" fittings). They also highly recommended an alternate way of connecting the ports on the wastegates as I had the top ports vented vs being connected (last 3 tuners preferred this way).
58404

Already ordered new CA625 head studs, boost controller, 1/4" fittings, head gaskets and oil cooler. I'll take the avcs gear and oil pump apart and clean them.

I've already been in contact with IAG so after the engine is torn down for a prediagnosis and clearance check, I'll get it boxed up and shipped them to get remachined and built. Hopefully just needs new bearings and they can save the crank and rod. They now use a new PTW spec so it'll get re-bored .005" over as well.

This is how I had the gates connected (worked before but the previous ebcs had 1/4" fittings):
58405

This is how I'll be connecting them as per Tials recommendation for bigger turbos:
58406
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,019 Posts


I was so hyped when you posted updates earlier this month that the car was running, and then this happened.

Hope you can get it squared away and tuned quickly.

What are you shooting for power and torque wise, and it sounds like on just 91 octane?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,957
Just 91 for now. But... I might be taking it to TX to get tuned. If I do, I might as well get a 93 tune as well. I was guessing 460/440ish as it was going a dynojet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,234 Posts
Yes using both ports on the WG is faster/better - why they are there.
 
1941 - 1958 of 1958 Posts
Top