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That sucks about your bearing.

I had my EWG plumbed like yours, with only 1 fitting being used on the EWG, and the car needed a considerable amount of WGDC to regulate boost.

once I added the 2nd port, the WGDC went down so far that I needed to swap in a smaller spring. I was hitting 30 psi at 4% WGDC where it took 95% to hit 30 psi before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,962 ·
58554

58555

58556


So it looks like it had oil starvation. Guess I used too much sealant on the case halves which fell off and clogged the pickup. The oil pan sealant was intact and looked fine. All the rod bearings looked like they were getting hot. I'll most likely send the pistons and rods back to Manley for inspection.

Already ordered all the seals, gaskets, new 3 port, 1/4" fittings and new 625+ head studs. I'll be getting new valve seals too since it always had bursts of smoke at start up but would go away.

Not sure which route I want to take on the block though:
A) Have the case bored to a .03 PWC vs the .025 its currently at, send the pistons and rods back to manley for inspection and attempt to build it again.
B) Get a new prebuilt OEM sb :/

IAG said the crank, rods and pistons are most likely no good from the oil starvation and worst case is the case is no good too. I guess we will see after inspection.

Good luck with the rebuild; getting the heads decked?

Get in touch with Phatbotti Tuning or JRtuned, they'll do you right.
The heads only have 1100 miles so shouldnt need tk be redecked again. I'll double check, just haven't yet.

Are you still in KS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,963 ·
That sucks about your bearing.

I had my EWG plumbed like yours, with only 1 fitting being used on the EWG, and the car needed a considerable amount of WGDC to regulate boost.

once I added the 2nd port, the WGDC went down so far that I needed to swap in a smaller spring. I was hitting 30 psi at 4% WGDC where it took 95% to hit 30 psi before.
Wow! Didn't realize it made that much of a difference. What size springs are you using to achieve your 30psi now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,965 ·
That's crazy^

I finally got some time to mess with the engine. Got my rods and pistons sent to Manley for inspection, cleaned the OCVs and AVCS gears. I inspected the oil pump and it's toast; debris all in the rotors and the plunger was wedged in the tunnel.

I'm trying to finish a customers car so I can buy a new oil pump and crank but the machine shop sand blasted the customer's cam journals and valve bucket tunnels :mad: Going in a minute to talk to the shop.
 

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Can you send me high res pics of the bearings? I see some bearing tells that are not oil starvation, but not certain with these pics.

That is a lot of silicone in the pickup, but I've seen worse!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,967 ·
Can you send me high res pics of the bearings? I see some bearing tells that are not oil starvation, but not certain with these pics.

That is a lot of silicone in the pickup, but I've seen worse!
Here are pics of the rods before shipping them out. I don't have the bearings anymore.
59132

59133

59134
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,968 ·
Fast forward a year and I have moved back to Ft Hood, TX. I tried taking the block to a couple machine shops and nobody can line hone it. 👎🏼If I can't find a shop in Austin, I'll be taking it to AWDTuning to machine and assemble the block since they won't just do the machining.
 

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P2P does line boring, have you talked to Ryan over there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,971 ·
Here we are almost a year and half later. Bottom end was built by AWDTuning and I assembled the rest. Hot the engine in last night but need to button a few things up.

I'm waiting on an ebcs connector (the EFR ebcs used a different connector and I switched back to a Grimmspeed 3 port), some AN fittings, PTFE fuelbline and an Aeromotive FPR. I also relocated the evap solenoid and routed vacuum and lines. Hopefully this go around will be headache free 🤞🏻
62860
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,973 ·
Got alot of work done as well as some elective work:
-Boost lines are re-done in order to route to top and bottom ewg ports.
-EBCS connector is done and the EBCS is tucked behind the cruise control doohicky on the passenger strut tower.
-Removed the EWG water lines (no good way to route them since the uppipe was built before they came out and each port is near exhaust bits on their way up to the bay or the fram is in the way and frankly, tired of messing with them).
-Found a 45* coupler which allowed me to clock the turbo so that the ic pipe is away from the manifold so I ordered an Aluminati reservoir to squeeze in there and get rid of the reservoir on the strut tower.
-Vacuum lines have all been replaced and rerouted. Bent the hard line from the crank-head equalizer line so the lines face a natural direction and removed the oem hoses.

Ordered an IAG FPR bracket to mount the FPR on the driver strut tower. Out of all the different setups I've seen, the way IAG mounts everything and routes the fuel lines is the best IMO so I'm going ro replicate it. Also found my radiator to be damaged from the move to TX and didn't want to install it so ordered a Koyo.

Some parts came in: PTFE fuel lines, fittings, Aeromotive FPR, Aluminati coolant reservoir and e85 fuel pump came in. Koyo radiator will be here tomorrow. I keep going in circles with the pump setup though. 1x AEM 450 or dual 340s. I had a Walbro 525 but iWire's fuel pump controller kit is out of stock until Aug.
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Once all this goes in, a final smoke test and then fill it with fluids and fingers crossed no leaks upon startup :)

Still on the hunt for body parts. My wife wanted the Zerosports bumper but it seems like they are no more. So, I will probably get Voltex bumper and side skirts as well as a CWII cf hood like I used to have. I wanted a Kaninari reversed scoop hood but my wife has always hated how I got rid of the CWII.
 

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Nice to see the progress.

Don't sweat the EWG water lines. They are more a pain in the ass than anything. Everyone we've setup has eventually leaked. Oddly enough, aside from that, we've never once had a Tial WG problem on a Subaru. The liquid cooling was made specifically for some 911 applications where the manifold primaries wrap around the WG, plus nearly no airflow in the back, and behind and aero diffuser. In comparison any Suby has a bazillion times more engine bay airflow.
 

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Nice to see the progress.

Don't sweat the EWG water lines. They are more a pain in the ass than anything. Everyone we've setup has eventually leaked. Oddly enough, aside from that, we've never once had a Tial WG problem on a Subaru. The liquid cooling was made specifically for some 911 applications where the manifold primaries wrap around the WG, plus nearly no airflow in the back, and behind and aero diffuser. In comparison any Suby has a bazillion times more engine bay airflow.
Don't agree. On the street as a daily, drag racing, or autocross, sure--no issue. In my GV I have the hood scoop blocked off, hood vents, wrapped KB header/up-pipe, and blanketed EWG. Within the first track day I "cooked off" (yes, I know that's not how it works) all of the anodizing, which means we're around 1,000°F+. It's minimal effort and parts needed to plumb up the lines, and long term durability will be greatly improved.

Used to be black :/...have since added some -4 lines--fed off the head and returned to the upper coolant tank.

62900
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,976 ·
I had my lines coming off the back of the coolant crossover and back into the heater core hard line. Either way, the heat sleeve I had over the hoses was already chewed up pretty bad so figured it would only be a matter of time.

Been busy the last couple of days but went to install the Aluminati reservoir only to find out the [oem] passenger side [reservoir] mounting bolt holes are about 1/8"-3/16" closer than the driver side. Since I have a reversed manifold, the reservoir didn't fit. I'll have to cut it and make 1 hole a fork to get the bolt in. Shot Aluminati the suggestion of widening the holes to accomodate both locations.
62906


Good news is because its metal, even 1 bolt would hold it just fine, just sucks when you have to cut up a new part. Also, looks like the re-clocking of the turbo will work too. I can clock it a little more than this pic but the intake was tightened down so its springing it back.
62907


Radiator is running late but will be here tomorrow. I'll probably get it in and only install 1 fan. I don't want to use the slim fan in the Koyo so will have to get new cold side piping made and get another oem fan for the driver side. Never understood why Full Race ran the pipes the way they did and eliminated the 2-speed oem fan. I also dont like how the bov is behind the driver side foglight cover and would like to have it in front of the tb hanging to the left. Gotta show off the bov lol Plus I'm using the vacuum port under the tb anyways.
 

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Within the first track day I "cooked off" (yes, I know that's not how it works) all of the anodizing, which means we're around 1,000°F+. It's minimal effort and parts needed to plumb up the lines, and long term durability will be greatly improved.
The color change is normal, but you know what doesn't put up with 1,000°? The water jacket seals.

The P-cars that run them replace those seals regularly, because they fail regularly. If you're a serious track guy, put them on a maintenance schedule to prevent a DNF. Even with the scoop blocked off, you don't have enough heat to kill the EWG. Or at least not any sooner than the seals going out on you.

Agree or not, keep a close eye. It will start with a tiny bit of coolant crust forming, eventually becoming wet, but due to the heat in the area it won't leave a drop on the floor until it's long gone.
 

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The color change is normal, but you know what doesn't put up with 1,000°? The water jacket seals.

The P-cars that run them replace those seals regularly, because they fail regularly. If you're a serious track guy, put them on a maintenance schedule to prevent a DNF. Even with the scoop blocked off, you don't have enough heat to kill the EWG. Or at least not any sooner than the seals going out on you.

Agree or not, keep a close eye. It will start with a tiny bit of coolant crust forming, eventually becoming wet, but due to the heat in the area it won't leave a drop on the floor until it's long gone.
So by your logic, I am now running coolant through the head, AND it's still getting to 1000°F? Right......
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,980 ·
Decided to get the Walbro 450 e85 pump, the install kit, Motul ATF for the ps fluid.
62911


I've also ordered a spool gun for my mig welder to alter my intercooler piping and a couple 90* couplers. Not sure I wanted to see ugly welds under the hood but need to extend a lower pipe lol I bought a carbide blade to cut the aluminum pipes as I have to cut down the pipe coming off the turbo. It sits too high and even with the underhood pad removed, the hood still hit.

So, Wednesday, the fuel system should be good. Next Monday the gun should arrive so sometime shortly after the air system will be complete. I do however still need a driver side radiator fan.
 
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