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Discussion Starter #1
Last week was just cruising around downtown in my 16' STi and my car stalled out in the road, tossed her into neutral and coasted down the road out of traffic into a neighborhood. Threw codes for only cam sensor 1 and 2. Got her towed home and replaced those PIA sensors only to find out later the belt snapped 馃檮 Anyways, I've been searching through forums and getting ready to have my car towed to a reputable shop and expecting the worst at this point. I'd like some pointers and maybe some ideas on rebuild vs just buying a new shortblock OE vs IAG or a type RA maybe? I just want my car back up and running soon as it's my daily and I also want her to be built a bit tougher so I can still enjoy backroad driving and long cruises, I'm not looking for huge power gains but a little extra wouldn't hurt so any recommendations on IAG vs RA vs ???? Money isn't an issue either I just want her back on the road again soon
 

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If your timing belt actually snapped why isnt it warranty?

If it isn't and you had piston to valve contact you need a longblock, not a shortblock

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If your timing belt actually snapped why isnt it warranty?

If it isn't and you had piston to valve contact you need a longblock, not a shortblock

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Cause i'm at 62k and out of warranty now. Thanks!
 

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Timing belt snapping at 62K? Thats kind of odd, the timing belts are usually good for 100-105K. Did something else fail to cause the belt to snap? Before you go ahead and condem the engine, why not put a new timing belt on and retime the engine. See how it runs first before you go spending big money on a rebuild. If the engine stalled out at low rpm/idle there is a chance that the engine could still be fine. Just because its an interfearance engine doesnt always mean its trashed if something like this happens.

Id say, start small before going big in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Timing belt snapping at 62K? Thats kind of odd, the timing belts are usually good for 100-105K. Did something else fail to cause the belt to snap? Before you go ahead and condem the engine, why not put a new timing belt on and retime the engine. See how it runs first before you go spending big money on a rebuild. If the engine stalled out at low rpm/idle there is a chance that the engine could still be fine. Just because its an interfearance engine doesnt always mean its trashed if something like this happens.

Id say, start small before going big in this case.
I鈥檒l give that a try today fingers crossed would be nice to not have to spend so much if that鈥檚 the case thanks! I only got part of the cover off and saw a clean break in the timing belt so I鈥檓 not sure where and how it broke yet, been busy with work haven鈥檛 had time to get whole cover off and look it over. I was at a pretty slow speed when it happened just accelerating from a light that just turned green and the car backfired (popped) once and stalled out and I tossed it in neutral and coasted it down the street and parked it. Don鈥檛 see any obvious damage anywhere externally so hopefully it鈥檚 just a belt we鈥檒l see.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry guys been really busy out on work trips, So I got the timing belt replaced and spent quite a bit of time making sure everything lined up as it was my first TB, spun the motor a couple times and the lines were pretty spot on except for the drivers side I could not for the life of me get them to be closer than half a tooth off. Had to leave for few days for work and came back and redid the whole thing and tried to get them to line up perfectly but still had issues getting drivers side to be dead on. Did some reading and found some manuals online for the STi timing marks and said it could be half a tooth off so I finally gave in and left it at half tooth off, buttoned it up and started her up. She initially started right up and smelled quite a bit of gas, idk if that's related to the unburnt gas from when it died a few weeks back or what so I shut her down and waited a few, started her back up again and the strong fuel smell went away and let her idle for a few minutes. At first it actually sounded fine but then after a few minutes at idle it started to idle rough while it warmed up at 12-1500 rpm's and had a couple (what sounded like) mini backfires out the exhaust. Shut her off and threw a random misfire code. That's the only code I have repeatedly gotten now since I put the TB back on, could that just be related to it being half a tooth off or something more sinister?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update:

I just finished pulling off timing covers and spun motor by hand a few times marks all line up perfectly spot on- on all sides. If that's the case and the car is random misfiring could this be because of something else or bent valves? The only things that have changed since the TB snapped is, changed TB and also changed both Cam pos sensor 1 and 2 as those were the only codes I originally got after the TB snapped. Could the change in sensors be an issue maybe wiring issue? I still have permanent codes stored for cam 1 and cam 2 position sensors and can't delete them.
 

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compression and leakdown and turning it over with intake removed should be next steps in order to determine whether tear down is necessary.
 

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Update:

I just finished pulling off timing covers and spun motor by hand a few times marks all line up perfectly spot on- on all sides. If that's the case and the car is random misfiring could this be because of something else or bent valves? The only things that have changed since the TB snapped is, changed TB and also changed both Cam pos sensor 1 and 2 as those were the only codes I originally got after the TB snapped. Could the change in sensors be an issue maybe wiring issue? I still have permanent codes stored for cam 1 and cam 2 position sensors and can't delete them.
Ok well atleast you tried the easy thing first. I agree with mheyman below. Now that you have the engine all timed up correctly, perform a compression and leak down test.

Have you replaced the cam postion sensors? If you have permenant faults for those then there could be a problem with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok well atleast you tried the easy thing first. I agree with mheyman below. Now that you have the engine all timed up correctly, perform a compression and leak down test.

Have you replaced the cam postion sensors? If you have permenant faults for those then there could be a problem with them.
Gonna jump into that today, yeah I replaced both cam position sensors cause I originally kept throwing a code for both sensors intermittently over the last few months prior to the belt snapping. They would come and go and randomly disappears for months on end and then come back out of nowhere so replaced both before I realized it was the timing belt that snapped. You think it could be wiring issue?
 

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Gonna jump into that today, yeah I replaced both cam position sensors cause I originally kept throwing a code for both sensors intermittently over the last few months prior to the belt snapping. They would come and go and randomly disappears for months on end and then come back out of nowhere so replaced both before I realized it was the timing belt that snapped. You think it could be wiring issue?
Sure its a possibility but that is something you will have to look into then. Make sure they are in correctly secured and connected. Make sure the wiring isnt damaged in any way.

I still think you should perform a compresssion and leak down just to verify engine health.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sure its a possibility but that is something you will have to look into then. Make sure they are in correctly secured and connected. Make sure the wiring isnt damaged in any way.

I still think you should perform a compresssion and leak down just to verify engine health.
I didn鈥檛 jump into compression and leak down last night I had to go do some things last minute but I did get battery reconnected after I checked the plugs on the cam sensors and cleaned them out and reconnected and shortly after that, sure enough the permanent codes are back. They cleared and then after I turned key back on these came back.

P0341 camshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance (bank 1 or single sensor)

P9346 camshaft pos sensor A circuit range/performance (bank 2)

P0390 camshaft pos sensor B circuit (bank 2)

P0365 camshaft pos sensor B circuit (bank 1)
 

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I didn鈥檛 jump into compression and leak down last night I had to go do some things last minute but I did get battery reconnected after I checked the plugs on the cam sensors and cleaned them out and reconnected and shortly after that, sure enough the permanent codes are back. They cleared and then after I turned key back on these came back.

P0341 camshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance (bank 1 or single sensor)

P9346 camshaft pos sensor A circuit range/performance (bank 2)

P0390 camshaft pos sensor B circuit (bank 2)

P0365 camshaft pos sensor B circuit (bank 1)
I think your going to have to whip out the meter and start checking voltage and resistance. You should also follow the circuit carefully inspect for chafed wiring or damage. Also check the engine grounds.
Do the compression/leakdown test too when you can.
 
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