So after being without a car for a few weeks I figured I would do some documentation on subaru timing/ and timing belts. There is already a how to on how to get to the timing belt this is simply a write up of what to do when you get there.
Note: During a timing belt install you should replace all idlers!
This is what you'll be looking at once you get to the timing belt.
![Image]()
The first thing you want to do is line the crank notch to the notch on the block. I painted these white so you can see.
![Image]()
Do not line the arrow on the the notch on the block(Even so the marks will not line up on the cams).
Do not start removing the timing belt.
Once the notch is lined up to the block make sure that the two notches on the cam gears are lined up on both sides (Marked in red, you should rotate the crank clockwise).
![Image]()
Once these are lined up to each other make sure that the single notches are lined up to the timing cover in the back.
![Image]()
Check this on both sides, once that is done check the notchs on the sides of the timing cover and make sure they're lined up on boths side.
![Image]()
Once that is done you're ready to remove the timing belt. The driver side cams are under pressure so they will spin. I believe the intake is open in one cylinder and the exhaust is open in the other cylinder so there is no chance the valves can hit. Just don't sping both the cams counter-clockwise as there will be contact. To move the driver side cams you want to move the top one clockwise and the bottom one counter clockwise.
To remove the timing belt you want to remove this idler;
![Image]()
Once the belt is off you'll notice that the cam gears have really no resistance, driver side and passenger side together. I recommend replacing all the seals as well. There is away to remove the seals with out damaging anything. I will get to that a bit later.
To remove the cam gears you can wrap the old timing belt around each came gear.
Note: DO NOT WRAP THE BELT AROUND TWO CAMS, CAN CAUSE INTERFERENCE/Bent valves.
![Image]()
Special thanks to Ultimatetool
Koken 10mm Allen Socket
I was able to get all three cams off in about five mintes. The last one (of course I stripped). Drilling these bolts out are a pain in the @ss. I ended up doing this.
![Image]()
There is a chance you can melt the seal but since I was replacing it anyways I decided to weld a bolt on it. I didn't melt my seal at all which is pretty surpising. I really recommend buying this tool and some seal wedges.
Amazon.com: Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller: Automotive
The seals have a rubber coating but are metal underneath.
![Image]()
There are a few options to remove these. You can drill two holes and then use pliers to pull them out. Drill very cautious... let the bit do the work as you don't want it to bust through and damage the camshaft. Or you can use the 15$ tool above which is easy. The other method is to use picks which takes forever and you can damage the housing. Once you replace all four seals you can use a large socket or PVC pipe to hammer them back in. Go very slow you want it even and not crooked!
Update: You need to gap the timing guides to .5mm - 1mm, I set mine to 1mm as the Kevlar timing belts are thicker than the stock ones. A zip tie works really well in actually keeping the correct curve to the cam gear. I did use a cosworth timing guide which you will have to drill out with the kevlar timing belts. They works fine with the stock belts.. this also needs to be gapped to .5mm - 1mm. I gapped my guide in between that 0.7mm" Pictures of the timing guide will be added tomorrow.
Pictures of the timing belt guide in spec;
![Image]()
![Image]()
How do you know your timing belt guide is rubbing?
![Image]()
if you look close you can see it;
![Image]()
This could have been prevented if the clearance was in spec to the product. What you don't want is the guide so high that it won't touch the belt and jump teeth. At high RPMS the belt will make contact with the guide which is fine. Yet you don't want the belt hitting the guide all the time either
Note: During a timing belt install you should replace all idlers!
This is what you'll be looking at once you get to the timing belt.
The first thing you want to do is line the crank notch to the notch on the block. I painted these white so you can see.
Do not line the arrow on the the notch on the block(Even so the marks will not line up on the cams).
Do not start removing the timing belt.
Once the notch is lined up to the block make sure that the two notches on the cam gears are lined up on both sides (Marked in red, you should rotate the crank clockwise).
Once these are lined up to each other make sure that the single notches are lined up to the timing cover in the back.
Check this on both sides, once that is done check the notchs on the sides of the timing cover and make sure they're lined up on boths side.
Once that is done you're ready to remove the timing belt. The driver side cams are under pressure so they will spin. I believe the intake is open in one cylinder and the exhaust is open in the other cylinder so there is no chance the valves can hit. Just don't sping both the cams counter-clockwise as there will be contact. To move the driver side cams you want to move the top one clockwise and the bottom one counter clockwise.
To remove the timing belt you want to remove this idler;
Once the belt is off you'll notice that the cam gears have really no resistance, driver side and passenger side together. I recommend replacing all the seals as well. There is away to remove the seals with out damaging anything. I will get to that a bit later.
To remove the cam gears you can wrap the old timing belt around each came gear.
Note: DO NOT WRAP THE BELT AROUND TWO CAMS, CAN CAUSE INTERFERENCE/Bent valves.
Special thanks to Ultimatetool
Koken 10mm Allen Socket
I was able to get all three cams off in about five mintes. The last one (of course I stripped). Drilling these bolts out are a pain in the @ss. I ended up doing this.
There is a chance you can melt the seal but since I was replacing it anyways I decided to weld a bolt on it. I didn't melt my seal at all which is pretty surpising. I really recommend buying this tool and some seal wedges.
Amazon.com: Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller: Automotive
The seals have a rubber coating but are metal underneath.
There are a few options to remove these. You can drill two holes and then use pliers to pull them out. Drill very cautious... let the bit do the work as you don't want it to bust through and damage the camshaft. Or you can use the 15$ tool above which is easy. The other method is to use picks which takes forever and you can damage the housing. Once you replace all four seals you can use a large socket or PVC pipe to hammer them back in. Go very slow you want it even and not crooked!
Update: You need to gap the timing guides to .5mm - 1mm, I set mine to 1mm as the Kevlar timing belts are thicker than the stock ones. A zip tie works really well in actually keeping the correct curve to the cam gear. I did use a cosworth timing guide which you will have to drill out with the kevlar timing belts. They works fine with the stock belts.. this also needs to be gapped to .5mm - 1mm. I gapped my guide in between that 0.7mm" Pictures of the timing guide will be added tomorrow.
Pictures of the timing belt guide in spec;
How do you know your timing belt guide is rubbing?
if you look close you can see it;
This could have been prevented if the clearance was in spec to the product. What you don't want is the guide so high that it won't touch the belt and jump teeth. At high RPMS the belt will make contact with the guide which is fine. Yet you don't want the belt hitting the guide all the time either
