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yes they are cleaning up the pins and adding some dielectric grease. The pins on mine were coroded right off so they had to replace that cap.
 

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That last sentence in the bulletin about climate control is interesting. My thermometer went out last week (yes, after a touchless car wash) and the result was a climate control system that was MUCH improved. When the thermometer was out, I could actually select a heat output that would not burn my hands in front of the vent! With a recent warm-up in temps here, the thermometer is working again, but now the lowest temp setting on the climate control results in super-hot heat output again.

I think I'll have the dealer check/fix the pin problem, and then I'll probably remove the thermometer probe to allow me actual control of the heat output. Has anyone else with broken thermometers experienced anything similar?
 

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When the outside temp guage fails the auto setting will not work with the climate control. It cant operate without knowing the outside temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Many thanks GT42RR. My dealer said that the service bulletin they received did not have the line about the erratic High Beam usage. Thanks Canada.

They also did not want to believe that their customer figured it out before they did.
 

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Thanks so much for this. I first got my 08 STI in Jan 2008 and had no electrical issues last winter. This winter my battery was always going dead and my neighbor who moves my car for the snow contractor kept telling me that my battery was going dead while I was away on business. I brought the car in to Subie dealer and they just changed my battery for new. I thought my problems were over. Same thing with new battery. My neighbor was stuck recharging it. Now it's all clear. I have the thermometer issue and it's clearly shorting the electical system while I'm away. I'm going back to Subie service with this inhand. thanks guys! :tup:

Here is the info I got from my dealer today.
 

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I performed this bulletin on my car yesterday. After over 2 years of time to become aware of this problem, I would assume dealers would know how to fix it. But at least one, Michael Hohl Subaru, in Carson City, Nevada, doesn't.

I took it in twice for this problem. It couldn't be duplicated, so on Saturday when it acted up while leaving the dealer, I took the car back and let it idle in the service drive so I could demonstrate the problem. They didn't want to look at it and said they would call me back Monday. Today is Thursday and no call. This is why I fix things myself. End of dealer rant.

To access the connector, there are 4 tabs that need to be released so you can lift the main fuse panel. You do not need to remove the bolts securing the fuse box. The connectors are just beneath the fuse panel and inside the fuse box. Removing the battery helped a lot with accessibility. The suspect connector is on the forward side of the fuse box.

The corrosion was very obvious. It was both under and on top of the connector, and I was concerned the pins may have corroded away. After removing the connectors, I found no serious damage. I used CRC electrical cleaner and dielectric grease to remove and prevent the return of corrosion, and now the thermometer and auto setting for the a/c and heater work fine. Its an easy procedure if nothing is damaged.

Thanks for posting this bulletin!
 

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Update to my previous post:

The temperature began fluctuating again shortly after my last post. I took it to a different dealer and they replaced the outside temp sensor. That didn't fix the problem.

This time I used Caig Deoxit to clean treat everything. I opened the connector blocks and cleaned them, then applied a light preservative coating of Caig to protect everything.

For the first week or so the temp still fluctuated erratically and gave fail indications several times. But, its been over a month now with temps from the 20s to the 80s and the problem appears to be gone. Evidently the cleaner had to penetrate the pins or wiring to neutralize the corrosion. Now the thermometer works correctly.
 

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Thermometer not working: displays -22°.

Had this same issue but it affected my high beams. They would slowly engage like my high beams were underpowered. I left the connector unplugged and had the same issue with -22 showing up. My display did black out after a few minutes.







Just in case the location is not clear...









I replaced everything that was green.
 

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Re: Thermometer not working: displays -22�.

CareerCadaver you the real MVP!

I'm going to take a stab at it tomorrow. I'm definitely tired of not having high beams lol I need my LEDs to beam those idiots who drive with their brights on lol. :tup:
 
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