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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've decided to make a build thread as I think I am really invested in my STi! At first I made a "Rebuild" thread (here) as a journal to keep all my progress as I ventured into tackling an engine removal and rebuild and I also wanted it to be some sort of guide for anyone going through what I was going through.

When I first bought the car I was somewhat new to the STi ownership game, making a few mistakes which included buying my STi from a used car dealer not affiliated with Subaru at all, not checking the oil (excitement got the better of me...) and of course, not taking it to a tuner to get it tuned right away... All things I've learned the hard way. What did it cost me? A F*cking spun bearing 3.5 months later... I hated myself, but I had a choice to make to either sell the car at a big loss, spend $8k - $10k on a builder (which I did not have) or tackle to rebuild on my own by buying a shortblock from a professional builder and having the heads redone at a specialist.

As you will see, I have chosen to rebuild her myself. Yes, I've heard all the talk that I should've given the car to a shop for rebuild, I've heard it and it's too late to change anything and I just simply don't care at this point! I've gone too deep already!

So, to begin the build thread:


First day from the dealer:



And here she is 3.5 months from September 2014...





Hours into the night, the engine is off the cradle! What a damned battle it was to get this thing out... Putting it back in proved to be very, very easy.



Mods list:


Installed
On The Way
Thinking about it / Future mods

Electronic stuff:
COBB AP V3
Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS
Defi 52mm Boost Gauge (Have it, not installed)
Defi 52mm Oil Pressure Gauge

Engine:
Built Industries Stage 2 block
- Stock Crank
- King XPG Main and Rod Bearings
- Manley H-Tuff Rods
- Manley Platinum Series Pistons (99.75mm)
- OEM 11mm Oil Pump

Stock Heads / Refreshed by Heads by Drew (Very Reputable Heads Specialist in CO)
- Stock Cams
- Stock Intake Valves
- Stock Exhaust Valves
- 3 Angle Valve Job
- GSC Power Division 75lbs Springs and Ti Retainers
IAG AOS Street Series
Killer B Oil Pick-up
Head work / Port and Polish
GSC Beehive Springs

GSC Stage 2 Cams
GSC Exhaust & Intake Valves


Power Stuff:
Dom 20G-XTR (2.4 inlet, 8cm)
Tsudo Catless Down Pipe
IAG Billet TGV Deletes
3mm Phenolic Spacers
Perrin Inlet
ID1000cc Injectors
DW65c Fuel Pump
Mishimoto Performance Radiator
Agency Power CBE
Cobb Catless Downpipe
Process West TMIC
IAG V2 Fuel Rails



Drivetrain:
Grimmspeed MCB
ACT HDSS Clutch Kit
Torque Solutions Pitch Stop Mount
Group-N Motor Mounts
Kartboy Rear Diff Positive Inserts
Cobb Short Shifter
Perrin Motor Mounts
Perrin Transmission Mount

Suspension:
BC Racing BR Coilovers
BC Racing Front & Rear Camber Plates
Agency Power Rear Trailing Arms
20mm Wheel Spacers
GTSpec Subframe Brace
GTSpec Fender Braces
RCE T2 Coilovers
Whiteline Front & Rear Sway Bars
Kartboy Endlinks





 

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I would personally skip the DW300 pumps and go for dual Walbro 255s or a Walbro 450. Also look into the ID1700s over the 2000s looking at what your current parts list is...you could probably even get away with 1300s but for an extra hundred the 1700s give room.

I would also look into some more suspension stuff to balance the ride out. The RCE T2s are KWs but valved for the STi
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Twin Walbro 255s is what I originally thought of. I would still need the Radium fuel hanger to support the 30r effectively so that works out. I'll switch that out.
 

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Overkill but great for a bigger turbo and E85 in the future.

There is only one Phoenix though :devil:
Those 1700s will play a bit nicer with E85 due to same construction as 1300s...however bigger is 99% of the time better.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oil going in! Yes, I bought into the whole "break-in" oil thing... Call me gullible! I'll have her fired up sometime next week!

 

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Discussion Starter #11
By the way, I've read some people disconnect the Crank Position Sensor when they prime the motor. Then I've heard it's not necessary, what's the consensus here?
 

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If you floor the gas pedal it makes the motor just crank. I removed my fuel pump fuse (under hood fuse box) to ensure it didn't start after my turbo swap. Worked like a charm, I cranked a few times until the oil pressure light went out ( 3#) consistently.
 

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Simply unplug your fuel pump fuse, it should be the top right fuse (IIRC) in the engine bay fuse box. Diagram is on the underside of the fuse box cap :)

Crank it over a few times just to get the pressure up and going, should be about ~10 seconds worth of cranking; do like 3-4 cranks of 3seconds segments so you don't overwork the starter.

Good luck! :tup:
 
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