IW STi Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All!

I am preparing to do my TGV butterfly valve delete and had a question. Once the delete is done, how do you reconnect the tgv motor and sensor so the computer doesn't throw a CEL? Do you just leave the motor and sensor "hanging" from the wiring harness? Or do you still have to leave the shaft going through the valves after the delete so the motor can still actuate the sensor? I read the TGV delete how to, but the pictures are gone so I am still fuzzy on exactly how to do this.

Also, is it even worth doing, or is it much easier to just buy new tgv valves with the delete already done, and the holes sealed? Anyone know how much a set of the pre-deleted valves are?

Thanks!

P.S. I know that new intakes for an STI adds little to no power (correct??) but have heard that a new turbo inlet WILL add about 3-6 hp....I don't plan to upgrade the stock turbo, so will a new inlet do anything for the stock snail?

Thanks again!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
You can do either: remove motors and rod and have a CEL, or reinstall the motors with rods but not have any butterfly plates. With the TGV delete CEL, the car will go into limp mode and not make any power. I would not drive around with that CEL on. Grimmspeed and Engaged Performance offer the service so you wouldn't have to buy a new new TGVs, but you can do either.
Yes, a turbo inlet will add a few hp. It'll also increase spool by 250rpm according to Perrin's back to back dyno tests. It's also a realibility mod since the rubber turbo inlet will become hard over many engine heat cycles and is prone to tearing/leaking, which caused all sorts of problems with unmetered air and even trying to diagnose what's wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Hi All!

I am preparing to do my TGV butterfly valve delete and had a question. Once the delete is done, how do you reconnect the tgv motor and sensor so the computer doesn't throw a CEL? Do you just leave the motor and sensor "hanging" from the wiring harness? Or do you still have to leave the shaft going through the valves after the delete so the motor can still actuate the sensor? I read the TGV delete how to, but the pictures are gone so I am still fuzzy on exactly how to do this.

Also, is it even worth doing, or is it much easier to just buy new tgv valves with the delete already done, and the holes sealed? Anyone know how much a set of the pre-deleted valves are?

Thanks!

P.S. I know that new intakes for an STI adds little to no power (correct??) but have heard that a new turbo inlet WILL add about 3-6 hp....I don't plan to upgrade the stock turbo, so will a new inlet do anything for the stock snail?

Thanks again!
If you are going to do the TGV's yourself you can just take out the rod and then have a local shop weld up the holes. If you would like we do offer TGV's already modified and ready to go! Ours are completely deleted and ported to ensure smooth airflow through the manifold system. :) We usually charge 179.00 for our TGV's.

Thanks
Mike
Benchmark Tuning
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys!

I'd love to avoid a CEL by leaving the shafts in, but is this still leaving quite a restriction in those ports? Can the motor be connected to the shaft and then the sensor outside the ports (externally somewhere) as to not throw a CEL AND to not restrict airflow?

Mike- is it $179 for the whole TGV assembly, or is it $179 for each pair, and so you need two?

Many thanks!

-James
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
Leaving the rods in does still restrict the airflow. Maybe half? Half for the rods and half for porting? The motors are essentially tricked because the ECU tells the motors to rotate, and they do; however, the ECU doesn't know that you removed the butterfly valves. The whole purpose is to reduce emissions when the engine is cold. After the engine reaches operating temperature, the valves stay fully open. Since you are removing the butterfly plates, your cold idle will be effected, regardless of a CEL light. You should get a tune in any event, and a tuner would be able to turn of the CEL should you decide not to reinstall the rods and motors. Your tuner should also be able to email you a basemap so that you can drive to get tuned without the car in limp mode. IMO, it best to do this as an extra right before a tune since you should get tuned afterward. I think you'd just regret reinstalling the motors and rods since you'd get ~half the gain for the same amount of work.
Note: I do not have the TGV deletes so I don't know how much the cold idle is effected - just offering what I know. My use of a half was arbitrary.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,595 Posts
If you do your own deletes and can't disable the codes yourself you can leave the rods, motors and sensors in place but they have to still be installed to function properly. The motor actuates the rod and the sensor is a feedback potentiometer that sends a position signal back to the ECU to verify that it's at the proper angle. If you leave the motors and sensors plugged in with no rod between the two you still end up with a CEL for input high or low.

IMHO if your going through all the work to do the deletes don't do it half way. Do the whole thing and get the codes disabled. You can also do it without having them welded up or buying some from someone else if you use the KSTech weldless kit. It still requires you to do all the porting yourself though.

Results for TGV Deletes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
I offer a rod, sensor, and motor re-installation option with my TGV delete service on here if your interested. I don't believe having the rod re-installed restricts airflow at all as airflow will just divert around it. I've had several customers request this option and it seems to be more for customers that want to retain a stock look and don't want to have someone remove the TGV codes from the ECU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,805 Posts
I offer a rod, sensor, and motor re-installation option with my TGV delete service on here if your interested. I don't believe having the rod re-installed restricts airflow at all as airflow will just divert around it. I've had several customers request this option and it seems to be more for customers that want to retain a stock look and don't want to have someone remove the TGV codes from the ECU.
I understand where you are coming from and hate being the devils advocate but... diverted air= restriction (however small it may be)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Your correct but I would still think that the restriction the rods cause would be very minimal. The main restriction is still being removed and that's the dividing wall. I would even think that turbulence downstream from the rod if any would be a good thing when it comes to fueling. I'm no expert but I am pretty good with Google search :)

flow around a cylinder - Google Search
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,805 Posts
Your correct but I would still think that the restriction the rods cause would be very minimal. The main restriction is still being removed and that's the dividing wall. I would even think that turbulence downstream from the rod if any would be a good thing when it comes to fueling. I'm no expert but I am pretty good with Google search :)

flow around a cylinder - Google Search
Good point! LMAO about google search. Gotta love all the info you can find about the most obscure things. :tup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
haha yea I love Google, even if it's just for reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,174 Posts
If you have a Tactrix cable you can disable the TGV error codes, it takes like 5 minutes.

TGV deletes don't necessarily merit a tune, IMO. They'll flow a tiny bit more air but the difference is about as much as the normal run-to-run variation on a dyno. Do a few pulls before and a few pulls after and if you're not knocking you're good to go. If you are knocking, pull a little timing where the knock happens. Also compare the MAF and load before and after too, that'll give you a rough idea how much extra power and torque you get from the upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Sry to jack this thread(and bring it back from the dead) but im about to install an FP HTA green with 3inch inlet, i have already taken the flappers out of my tgv when i installed my 3inch inlet awhile back, can i just remove the tgv motor now?
if it throws a cels thats no big deal but my question is more along the lines of will the tgvs still be sealed without the motor.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,174 Posts
Removing the motor (and the sensor on the other side, depending on model year) will leave a hole where the shaft went through. I bought a set of 'deleted' TGV housings that have set-screws threaded into the holes. It's probably a good idea to coat the screws with JB weld or similar to make sure they seal up completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Removing the motor (and the sensor on the other side, depending on model year) will leave a hole where the shaft went through. I bought a set of 'deleted' TGV housings that have set-screws threaded into the holes. It's probably a good idea to coat the screws with JB weld or similar to make sure they seal up completely.
thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Ok, I'm in the middle of an engine build and had the shafts removed and welded. I know the CEL's will be generated now but how on the Cobb AP do you permanently delete these codes from appearing. I know how to delete a CEL code but I am talking about keeping them from ever showing up. thanks for the help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,397 Posts
I think:

In Access Tuner, or buy your tuner.

Not sure it cant be done directly, but in access tunerfor sure.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top