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Just put a 15 rack (34110VA121), bushings and brace in my 11 sti hatch (61k miles) that started leaking at the shaft. Was originally off a tooth on reconnecting the shaft but was sure to straighten it up by counting turns before ever turning the key to "ON" to hopefully and maybe prevent any recalibration being needed. Toe was obviously off but pretty close. Drove it to the store a couple of times, and no lights ever came on.

I then took it to an independent shop for an alignment. The traction and hill-assist lights came on when I was leaving, after the alignment. ABS never threw any codes. The two lights would not come back on when restarting the car but would return once the wheels started moving. I took it back to the alignment shop and they reset/recalibrated something, probably the steering angle sensor? They were a little puzzled when I came back trying to explain it to them, but knew what to do when I told him I just replaced the steering rack. They stated that it was not part of their alignment service but went ahead and reset it for me.

For future reference - You most likely have to ask for them to reset the steering when getting an alignment. Doesn't seem like it's something they normally see that needs a reset.

This thread transformed my car. Well worth the ratio difference versus just replacing the $25 oil seals.

Thanks to this community and special thanks to @Noximus

Happy New Year
 

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I know most STI owners swapping to the 2015 rack have had no trouble, but I had an ongoing issue with overly eager VDC for my 2012 STI hatch. For what it's worth, it was under very specific circumstances (30ish MPH, moderately tight corner, especially bad on liftoff oversteer).

I did have all the mechanical issues addressed and had the SAS zeroed/calibrated, to no avail. The intermediate shaft was off a bit initially, so after my first alignment I could turn the wheel slightly further in one direction vs the other and there were significantly more threads on one tie rod end than the other. This was confirmed with SAS readings of 463 to -447 lock to lock. After this was corrected, I still had issues with VDC following SAS zeroing and alignment, so I built a SAS scaler to correct the steering angle sensor back to stock numbers. Note, this is what people mean by "centering" the steering. The rack itself bolts into place, centering the steering just involves having a like number of exposed threads on either side.

The VDC has a little bit of a cushion or margin of error, and I think our cars ride the borderline for that cushion - thus many people have no issues and some of us do. It's a bigger problem on the legacy, forester, etc with 16.5:1 or 18:1 dropping down to 13:1.

All the old posts or how-to threads seem to have dead links etc, so I've created a new how-to thread:


I know many of you don't mind driving around 100% of the time with traction control disabled, but that's not an option for some of the other models, and I personally wanted to have traction control available. I work a lot of hours and sometimes end up with surprise winter weather commuting after long shifts. I don't care how good of a driver you are, if you're fatigued enough there's the potential for a mistake. Plus, if I am going to drive around with traction control perpetually off, I still was going to learn to use arduino and CANBUS to keep from having to hold the button down every time I start the car, so I knew I'd be working on one project or the other.

As a side note regarding SSM etc, I have a ~ $200 code scanner that is able to poll (and reset) the VDC. This is what I used to verify my wheel speed sensors were working fine as well as evaluate the outputs for SAS, G/yaw sensor, etc.

All VDC shenanigans aside, I'm really happy with the rack. I got coilovers at the same time, so there's overlap with that for sure, but it really transformed the handling of the car. No "sports" oriented car should have anything as high as 15:1 and up.
 

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I know most STI owners swapping to the 2015 rack have had no trouble, but I had an ongoing issue with overly eager VDC for my 2012 STI hatch. For what it's worth, it was under very specific circumstances (30ish MPH, moderately tight corner, especially bad on liftoff oversteer).

I did have all the mechanical issues addressed and had the SAS zeroed/calibrated, to no avail. The intermediate shaft was off a bit initially, so after my first alignment I could turn the wheel slightly further in one direction vs the other and there were significantly more threads on one tie rod end than the other. This was confirmed with SAS readings of 463 to -447 lock to lock. After this was corrected, I still had issues with VDC following SAS zeroing and alignment, so I built a SAS scaler to correct the steering angle sensor back to stock numbers. Note, this is what people mean by "centering" the steering. The rack itself bolts into place, centering the steering just involves having a like number of exposed threads on either side.

The VDC has a little bit of a cushion or margin of error, and I think our cars ride the borderline for that cushion - thus many people have no issues and some of us do. It's a bigger problem on the legacy, forester, etc with 16.5:1 or 18:1 dropping down to 13:1.

All the old posts or how-to threads seem to have dead links etc, so I've created a new how-to thread:


I know many of you don't mind driving around 100% of the time with traction control disabled, but that's not an option for some of the other models, and I personally wanted to have traction control available. I work a lot of hours and sometimes end up with surprise winter weather commuting after long shifts. I don't care how good of a driver you are, if you're fatigued enough there's the potential for a mistake. Plus, if I am going to drive around with traction control perpetually off, I still was going to learn to use arduino and CANBUS to keep from having to hold the button down every time I start the car, so I knew I'd be working on one project or the other.

As a side note regarding SSM etc, I have a ~ $200 code scanner that is able to poll (and reset) the VDC. This is what I used to verify my wheel speed sensors were working fine as well as evaluate the outputs for SAS, G/yaw sensor, etc.

All VDC shenanigans aside, I'm really happy with the rack. I got coilovers at the same time, so there's overlap with that for sure, but it really transformed the handling of the car. No "sports" oriented car should have anything as high as 15:1 and up.
Excellent feedback. Thank you very much for posting and letting us all know what you experienced and how you fixed it.

I am in process now replacing all the bushings, installing superpro lca’s and swaybars. Next will be the steering rack and therefore I have been following this thread to learn as much as possible of everyone’s experience.

I fully agree with you that just switching off something that is not working right is not a long term solution. It will drive me crazy if I have to do that every time.
 

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I read most of this thread, but have a question.

I had the steering wheel centered, and removed my old rack. I counted the turns on the tie rod ends on my old rack, and modified the new rack to include the same number of threads. (16 on passenger, 13 on driver)

However, when I read the Tips it was saying to set the tie rod ends to 11-13 threads.

I'm unsure if I should do that since I already counted the number of threads on my old rack.
 

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When I did it, I didn't go by threads. I used a measuring tape on both my new aftermarket tie rods and end links to get them the same length as they were when stock. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, just as close as you can to get you to the alignment shop. They will get it perfect.
 
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