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That brings up a good question, how has everyone been determining the “center” of the rack?


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That brings up a good question, how has everyone been determining the “center” of the rack?


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Via a professional alignment.

Other then that before you can get one, you would need to measure your tie rod lengths and make sure they’re the same, or eyeballing your wheels...
 

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Via a professional alignment.

Other then that before you can get one, you would need to measure your tie rod lengths and make sure they’re the same, or eyeballing your wheels...


Oh well yeah I’ll definitely be getting an alignment. But I’m more wondering how to know the rack is in it’s centered position at the steering shaft. I’ve done some racks on other cars, and they all had a detent or some way to show you the rack was centered. (Not relative to the wheels, but relative to the center of the steering shaft as it relates to the centered position of the steering wheel).

That way when you put the u-joint for the lower shaft onto the steering rack you At least knew that was straight.


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Bleep bloop. It's in - powersteering pump stopped making noise too so that's nice.

Regarding my previous question about centering the rack. I ended up being off a few teeth (about 1/4 rotation). So I had someone hold the wheel while I disconnected the steering shaft, and then center the wheel. Now I have equal turns in both direction (may still be off a tooth)

I have toe-in plates coming today so I plan to set the toe myself, or atleast try. I have a few other things I am doing that will require an alignment so I'm waiting to get that done. Should have an update on the self alignment later today or tomorrow depending on the weather.
 

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So no detent or other way to confirm center, right?
Nope, none that I found unfortunately. (there is a weird pin, but I think that's unrelated to centering).

As far as I can tell there is 1.5 turns to each side from the center. So it was pretty easy to find center once it was on. (Initially from center I had 1-3/4 turn to the right and 1-1/4 to the left) I imagine if I counted the teeth and divided it up I could determine how many teeth it's actually off, but I figured the fine adjustment can be done at the tie rods.

I messed around with the toe plates yesterday, pretty easy to use although I was a little rushed because it was supposed to storm. I think it have it driveable now. I'll revisit them today (as long as it's not raining :( ). I also need to get the subframe girdle back on before I take it out.

I'll probably also set up some strings as well to determine individual wheel toe as a sanity check. Been watching some videos on it this morning and it seems fairly straight forward if you take the time to set it up the right way.
 

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it really is easy to setup alignment...uncle and i did it on a crx years ago using string and a long board with nails in each side. would adjust then back up to end of driveway and back into garage to make sure suspension had settled properly before checking again...steering wheel only ended up being ~3 degrees off, drove straight till i hit the side of a mountain lol
 

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I've tried to read everything. Just for my clarity in that I am understanding everything.

I have a 2005 GD STi. In order to make this all work I would need the following to be done.

1. Purchase 2015 STi steering rack.
2. Enlarge the hole in my subframe to make new steering rack "fit".
3. I would need a different bracket/spacer due to the offset of the new steering rack in order to bolt into the current holes.
4. I would need to finder shorter tie rods (cut the longer 2015 tie rods, or use my existing 05' GD tie rods as long as they are in good condition)

This is what I am getting confused about.
1. Do I need different fittings since the lines are going to be slightly different location/angle. I've read that people bend the stock lines slightly but that needs to be done gently not to cause problems/kinks, or purchase new adapters so that no bending is required?

2. I also read the 05' Steering rack top gear/knuckle is longer than the 15+, so is an adapter needed?

I don't mind taking everything apart. My fear is that I miss something simple which causes a nightmare of an install..lol

This thread is filled with a ton of info and I'm trying to make sure I understand everything 100% before buying everything then finding out, welp crap. Doesn't work because this or that...etc.

Much appreciated!

-Nigel
 

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I've tried to read everything. Just for my clarity in that I am understanding everything.

I have a 2005 GD STi. In order to make this all work I would need the following to be done.

1. Purchase 2015 STi steering rack.
2. Enlarge the hole in my subframe to make new steering rack "fit".
3. I would need a different bracket/spacer due to the offset of the new steering rack in order to bolt into the current holes.
4. I would need to finder shorter tie rods (cut the longer 2015 tie rods, or use my existing 05' GD tie rods as long as they are in good condition)

This is what I am getting confused about.
1. Do I need different fittings since the lines are going to be slightly different location/angle. I've read that people bend the stock lines slightly but that needs to be done gently not to cause problems/kinks, or purchase new adapters so that no bending is required?

2. I also read the 05' Steering rack top gear/knuckle is longer than the 15+, so is an adapter needed?

I don't mind taking everything apart. My fear is that I miss something simple which causes a nightmare of an install..lol

This thread is filled with a ton of info and I'm trying to make sure I understand everything 100% before buying everything then finding out, welp crap. Doesn't work because this or that...etc.

Much appreciated!

-Nigel


This thread is mostly for GR installs. Most of us here aren't fully familiar with the GD work required. If you look on NASIOC, that's where the GD thread research and findings really took place. You'd get better feedback there.
 

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This thread is mostly for GR installs. Most of us here aren't fully familiar with the GD work required. If you look on NASIOC, that's where the GD thread research and findings really took place. You'd get better feedback there.
Appreciate the info! I'll go and post there and see what I get.

This looks excellent honestly so I hope I can make it work.

-Nigel
 

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I just did the 2015+ rack swap into my 2011 STi wagon and just thought I’d share the experience as another data point.

I followed all the gouge on strapping the steering wheel in place to be centered and counted the exposed threads on the tie rods to attempt to get it set up as close to my old rack as possible. It was very straight forward, however I screwed up not getting the rack centered when I connected it. The steering wheel was centered, but the rack was not. I had the wheels off the car and it looked close to center judging from the rotors. When I got the wheels back on and took the car off the jacks it was slightly more apparent. I don’t have any kind of alignment equipment and the miss alignment was subtle enough that I wasn’t sure if the rack was off or if it was just an optical illusion. I took the car out of the driveway and went about 30 feet and the VDC lost its mind and eventually deactivated itself. I immediately pulled the car back into the garage and called it a day.

The next morning I was able to disconnect the steering linkage without taking anything off the car other than the undertray. I loosened the top bolt and slid the u joint up the steering wheel shaft and was able to clear the connection into the rack. To make sure the rack was centered I clamped to pieces of trimming I had laying around to make a long straight edge that I could hold flush to the rear tires and the front tires at the same time. I lined up the tires with the front end jacked up. It was clear there was a bit of toe out, but both front tires had the same amount of toe out and they were otherwise straight and the rack centered. I reattached the steering linkage and took it for another drive. No more VDC/traction control issues. I was able to drive the car to the shop to fine tune the alignment from there. I haven’t driven the car at autocross or the track yet, but pushing it around town a little hasn’t resulted in any traction control issues. It’s only been a couple days but so far I love it. I did have some shudder in the steering a few times at low speed sharp turning (parking), but I’m not sure if that is just all the fluid getting settled in the new system or just the fact it’s a brand new steering rack and I’m not used to so much feed back. I bleed the system carefully and thoroughly, but I guess I could I screwed it up. It seems to have gone away though. I’ll share if anything comes of it.

This was long but hopefully it helps to have another data point of experience.
I had this exact issue and all is well. Installed the rack last couple days taking my time.

Def the steering is way heavier than the GR rack which was WAY TOO LOOSE. Its actually heavy believe it or not like my 2005 Outback XT was and also my daughters 2007 Outback Sedan H6 car.

It is a great mod, quicker steering and no more feeling out of control in the corners cause the other rack was so loose. It would almost bump steer if cornering and hitting a imperfection in the pavement.

Nope, none that I found unfortunately. (there is a weird pin, but I think that's unrelated to centering).

As far as I can tell there is 1.5 turns to each side from the center. So it was pretty easy to find center once it was on. (Initially from center I had 1-3/4 turn to the right and 1-1/4 to the left) I imagine if I counted the teeth and divided it up I could determine how many teeth it's actually off, but I figured the fine adjustment can be done at the tie rods.

I messed around with the toe plates yesterday, pretty easy to use although I was a little rushed because it was supposed to storm. I think it have it driveable now. I'll revisit them today (as long as it's not raining :( ). I also need to get the subframe girdle back on before I take it out.

I'll probably also set up some strings as well to determine individual wheel toe as a sanity check. Been watching some videos on it this morning and it seems fairly straight forward if you take the time to set it up the right way.
Ive installed racks before and this was exactly what I was looking for when I started. The rack comes turned one direction. I couldnt find a center detent or anything. I actually just rotated it and counted the turns to get it as close as I could but after install I was off about 1/4 turn.



Anyway great mod and great thread, and yes I did read it all. ;):lol: Notice I didn't have any questions :D
 

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I just last week upgraded my 2013 STI to the new 2015 rack.....

Before we installed we tried to find the center of the rack and it was difficult because there is no "detent" like other racks I have done. It comes shipped in the box all the way one direction.

So we centered it as best we could, installed the rack and when I first turned it on I of course got the dash lights.

When driving straight it was maybe 1/4 turn off.


So I took it to my buddies shop put it on an alignment rack straightened the wheels up and then disconnected the steering coupler and straightened the steering wheel.

He then completed the alignment.

After the alignment or at the end of the alignment their alignment machine has you plug into the OBDII port and zero the sensor which it did just fine and the lights went out.

After driving it a few days I too hit a couple 90 degree turns at about 35-40 with throttle lifted and the outside wheel would brake.

Still no check lights.

I did the headlight switch trip reset sequence to get the codes and I have a C0071 in ABS/VDC memory.

I am going to take it to the dealer and see if they can clear it and then do what you reported by having them recalibrate with the Subaru Select Monitor.

Maybe just zeroing it at the alignment shop doesn't quite reset it or calibrate it fully.

I will report back.



Also the Factory Service Manual tells you to remove the steering wheel and adjust roll center after installing the rack......

15) Lower the vehicle.
16) Remove the steering wheel. <Ref. to PS-13, REMOVAL, Steering Wheel.>
17) Align the center position of the roll connector. <Ref. to AB-28, ADJUSTMENT, Roll Connector.> 18) Install the steering wheel. <Ref. to PS-13, IN- STALLATION, Steering Wheel.>
19) Connect the battery ground terminal.
20) Pour fluid into the oil tank, and bleed air. <Ref. to PS-51, Power Steering Fluid.>
21) Check for fluid leaks.
22) Check the fluid level in oil tank.

CAUTION:
• Do not rotate the roll connector to more than the specified number of turns. Otherwise, the roll connector internal wire may be broken.
• When determining the end stop, rotate the connector slowly without applying excessive force. Applying excessive force at the end stop may break the internal wire.
1) Check that front wheels are positioned in straight ahead direction.
2) Turn the roll connector pin (A) clockwise until it stops.
3) Turn the roll connector pins (A) approx. 3.25 turns in the counterclockwise direction until “^ ” marks are aligned.
I had this exact issue and all is well. Installed the rack last couple days taking my time.

Def the steering is way heavier than the GR rack which was WAY TOO LOOSE. Its actually heavy believe it or not like my 2005 Outback XT was and also my daughters 2007 Outback Sedan H6 car.

It is a great mod, quicker steering and no more feeling out of control in the corners cause the other rack was so loose. It would almost bump steer if cornering and hitting a imperfection in the pavement.



Ive installed racks before and this was exactly what I was looking for when I started. The rack comes turned one direction. I couldnt find a center detent or anything. I actually just rotated it and counted the turns to get it as close as I could but after install I was off about 1/4 turn.



Anyway great mod and great thread, and yes I did read it all. ;):lol: Notice I didn't have any questions :D
 

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Also this from another thread from a Subaru Mechanic I think.....


"I got a car in yesterday with the described error lights. Scanner pulled a c0071. Data link showed 0° in all positions so I replaced the SAS. Lights went away and sensor was reading correctly. However, when turned all the way right, lights came back. Rechecked installation, reinitialized the zero angle and yaw. Same errors when turned all the way right. Data link showed a 110° deference between lock right and lock left. Installed another sensor and found same readings. Just before i pulled ALL my hair out I raised the vehicle and found the rack and pinion to have been centered incorrectly.
So... My advice and an easy way to check this is center your steering wheel. Verify the wheels are straight at the 0° mark, then turn the wheel all the way left counting the rotations. Center again and go right. Are they the same number of rotations from center to lock both ways? If not check your rack for proper centering (count the visible threads on both ends)
Hopefully this will help at least a few of you"
 

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Well after zeroing out the SAS sensor with the subaru select monitor and not a single code I sill have the issue once in a while.

Im not sure if its the way I am testing it or not.


If I go through a sharp left corner about 35-40 mph with throttle mostly lifted my right front ABS (outside wheel) will kick on. Haven't been able to duplicate it at all with the left front when going into a right turn.

I haven't really felt it on throttle I don't believe....

Other than that it seems to drive fine.



Noximus do you have any input on how you tested yours? I think you spoke about it a bit.



I ordered a VXDiag Subaru Select Monitor which seems to work well from what I have heard. I am going to do so more testing when I get it up and running.
 

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It was tested in an abandoned industrial park doing sharp corner, soft corners, slow or fast corners, and then tested at autocross events multiple times. All tests under the three modes with VCD on/semi/off. Then, it was tested in the winter with the same settings. Never had any issues.

My steering rack is still running perfectly every day with no issues.

The fact that you only have an issue on one side makes me jump to the same conclusion as I've provided previously for others; it's a bad sensor that wasn't an issue before, but now is significantly more noticeable or easier to detect with the smaller ratio.
 

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I'll be honest, I wouldn't ever know if I had issues as I have TC and VCD disabled at all times. But so far rack has been fine.

I am curious to see how the VXDiag works for you though, something I've thought about getting before but just never pulled the trigger.
 
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