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One of you who has this issue is going to need to take the lead and figure it out. There has to be something causing it. I can play on all traction modes without any issues as many others. There’s a huge majority with no issues at all.

I still strongly believe as I’ve mentioned many times before that it’s a bad sensor. SAS, ABS, etc. Something has to be bad some where.

I’ve had a bad MAF that was reading all values within spec when evaluating it individually, but as a whole, it screwed my AF Learning significantly to cause a lot of issues. If I had tempted faith and replaced it 2 years sooner, I would have saved a lot of troubleshooting time and tuning expenses. I’ve had an O2 sensor read correctly when tested, but it still ended up being bad. Anyways, there are more examples I can explain with this car, but you get the picture.
 

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Thanks guys, going to make the big leap in getting that leaking rack replaced along with the poly bushings.

That passenger side bushing, I read that it's a direct fit although it doesn't seem so at first. Any update to this?

I also should replace the PS pump, but I heard that Subaru did some silent revisions for improvement. Is 34430FG040 the latest one?

Thanks
 

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Thanks guys, going to make the big leap in getting that leaking rack replaced along with the poly bushings.

That passenger side bushing, I read that it's a direct fit although it doesn't seem so at first. Any update to this?

I also should replace the PS pump, but I heard that Subaru did some silent revisions for improvement. Is 34430FG040 the latest one?

Thanks
The passenger bushing is a direct fit. It was my misunderstanding. The stock bushing is very soft and flexible, it didn't seem it would fit at first glance when comparing the stock rubber to the poly version, but it fit perfectly.

2019 Subaru STI TYPE RA 2.5L TURBO 6MT Pump-power steering. Oil - 34430FG040 | Subaru Parts Warehouse, Branford CT

34430FG040 is the one used on the 2019 Type RA
 

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There is a fix involving an arduino with canbus io’s and programming to increase the steering angle sense back to stock...

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44302713&postcount=512

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=subaru+arduino+can+steering+wheel+angle&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari
 

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I was finally able to work on my car this week.
Few things I found out:

1. Those fittings for the hard line connection was a pain. Get yourself a set of crowfoot tool and some creativity:lol:

2. I bought the superpro bushings, but the passenger side was a bit too big as indicated on the pic you see on this thread. I was told that this was ok, and the part fits, but the steering rack had play when I torqued down the bolts. I measured the rack body and found that the new one was about 0.75mm smaller in diameter than the old one. This could be the reason for the play. I just used the OEM one(the new and old OE bushing is the same part#), and the play went away. This will have to do for now. Is this the reason why whiteline has two different bushings in their kit?

3. Moving the passenger side bolt that holds the control arm to the cross member will make things easier to get the rack out/in. I also swapped my control arms to the 2011 one, so it was part of the process anyway.

Took the car out for a test drive, and I need to center the steering wheel one notch. But the car felt really responsive, almost like a new car:D The steering felt heavier, due to the increased ratio, but I like the feeling.

PS. I hate those hard line connectors:lol:
 

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Does this solve the potential from future leaking? Meaning is the next gen rack batter built/engineered?


It’s not. The only difference is the quicker gear ratio.

The seals are the same and the overall rack design is the same. It is still susceptible to leaking as the current gen rack.

The big plus is that if you’re replacing the entire rack, the price for the GR/GV rack is the same price as the VA rack when considering a brand new purchase.

There is some speculation that the VA rack comes with better seals but no one has been able to confirm that.
 

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Just wondering where I can get a updated coupon code? The WE-STI for subarusource.com has expired.

In addition it appears the part number 34110VA120 has been replaced with 34110VA121. Will this be an issue?
 

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Just wondering where I can get a updated coupon code? The WE-STI for subarusource.com has expired.

In addition it appears the part number 34110VA120 has been replaced with 34110VA121. Will this be an issue?


I looked into it. No issues at all. VA121 supercedes VA120. It’s possible they may have made a small change to the bushings or seals requiring the part number to increase due to the revision. The overall design and dimensions are the same.
 

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Finally got my rack in. Now I need to find time to install. However I have a few questions. The new rack has a blue line/mark on the input shaft.

Does this have to line up somewhere on the lower universal joint?

When I pull the old rack off will I see the same mark?

Currently the input shaft that is exposed has a little rust and I don't see an existing mark.

I'm just a little worried of not installing the input shaft correctly into the lower universal joint and having the steering a little off. I read whole thread and no one really explains this process in detail. Just mark the old input shaft with lower universal joint before removal.

Thanks
 

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it sounds like the key is to either lock down your steering wheel during replacement or get the vdc re-centered after install to ensure no codes come up...im gna do this in the future (wife put lockdown if its not broke cant upgrade) and have the Subaru software to do this
 

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I read through all 90+ pages of this thread a few weeks ago after my mechanic told me that my stock rack on my 2012 STi hatch is leaking. The car has almost 100K on it, so I thought this would be prime time for the 15+ rack swap.

After reading through the thread it seems like the vast majority of people that did the swap have had no issues. IIRC there was one person that had an issue with the VDC that he was not able to resolve even after repeated troubleshooting attempts. Seems like everyone else was OK.

I'm going to plan on doing this swap later in the summer or fall, just wanted to check and see if anyone else has had any issues that hadn't been brought up previously.

Thanks all
 

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People only come to the forums to report issues when they have some, so that’s why that’s all you see. I can assure you the swap is direct fit no issues on a well maintained vehicle. I know more people in real life who have done this swap without issues in my local City than there are people who have had issues in this thread.

Don’t be afraid to do the swap. Best mod in the world.
 

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I just did the 2015+ rack swap into my 2011 STi wagon and just thought I’d share the experience as another data point.

I followed all the gouge on strapping the steering wheel in place to be centered and counted the exposed threads on the tie rods to attempt to get it set up as close to my old rack as possible. It was very straight forward, however I screwed up not getting the rack centered when I connected it. The steering wheel was centered, but the rack was not. I had the wheels off the car and it looked close to center judging from the rotors. When I got the wheels back on and took the car off the jacks it was slightly more apparent. I don’t have any kind of alignment equipment and the miss alignment was subtle enough that I wasn’t sure if the rack was off or if it was just an optical illusion. I took the car out of the driveway and went about 30 feet and the VDC lost its mind and eventually deactivated itself. I immediately pulled the car back into the garage and called it a day.

The next morning I was able to disconnect the steering linkage without taking anything off the car other than the undertray. I loosened the top bolt and slid the u joint up the steering wheel shaft and was able to clear the connection into the rack. To make sure the rack was centered I clamped to pieces of trimming I had laying around to make a long straight edge that I could hold flush to the rear tires and the front tires at the same time. I lined up the tires with the front end jacked up. It was clear there was a bit of toe out, but both front tires had the same amount of toe out and they were otherwise straight and the rack centered. I reattached the steering linkage and took it for another drive. No more VDC/traction control issues. I was able to drive the car to the shop to fine tune the alignment from there. I haven’t driven the car at autocross or the track yet, but pushing it around town a little hasn’t resulted in any traction control issues. It’s only been a couple days but so far I love it. I did have some shudder in the steering a few times at low speed sharp turning (parking), but I’m not sure if that is just all the fluid getting settled in the new system or just the fact it’s a brand new steering rack and I’m not used to so much feed back. I bleed the system carefully and thoroughly, but I guess I could I screwed it up. It seems to have gone away though. I’ll share if anything comes of it.

This was long but hopefully it helps to have another data point of experience.
 
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