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You know what I am getting a AEM IAT sensor and bung installed on my ride some time this week. It will be post inter cooler so I can tune using SD. I just might do a few logs stock with out a splitter then pick me up a spiliter from SS and find out if it works.

Then we will see if any of their claims hold water......


BTW SS this is something you all should have done from the start. Then provide us with the evidence... Not doing so sounds a little fishy and also lazy....


Remember kids, the burden of proof lies with those making the claim....
 

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The only ways to prove whether this works, would be to put'er in a wind tunnel with a clear hood and watch where the smoke goes, or to install multiple RTD's placed along the top and bottom of the IC and monitor temps at varying conditions.

Having a buddy in the trunk of the car in front of you letting loose a few cans of spray paint might work, too. The more color on more of the intercooler, the better!
 

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The only ways to prove whether this works, would be to put'er in a wind tunnel with a clear hood and watch where the smoke goes, or to install multiple RTD's placed along the top and bottom of the IC and monitor temps at varying conditions.

Having a buddy in the trunk of the car in front of you letting loose a few cans of spray paint might work, too. The more color on more of the intercooler, the better!
What are you smoking? Can I have some?

The OTHER way to prove this works to to see if there is any type of drop in IC temps under WOT throttle from before it is installed.... A very quick before and after comparison will prove beyond a shadow of a doubt. This "mod" only takes a few seconds to install so there should be no time difference for heat up or cool down due to the ambient air temps. If this product does not in fact cool down the post TMIC charge air more than the stock setup then it's only purpose is engine bay dress up. As here is a quick blurb from there web site about what they claim this product does:

http://www.subtle-solutions.com said:
The Intercooler Splitter has specially angled fins that rise into your hood scoop. These fins collect incoming air and disperse it evenly over the entire surface area of your intercooler, dramatically increasing intercooler efficiency. This increase in intercooler efficiency will result in lower intake temperatures, and more power! The improvements seen make this a perfect upgrade, even for a car with a factory intercooler and hood scoop.
Which means I had better see lower TMIC temps after I install this product. I will also take a video and post up the logs once I get around to doing this. Might be about a week or so as I need to install my AEM IAT sensor that I have sitting in a box. Right now I in the middle of a heat war with my engine bay, I just got done wrapping my DP, turbo blanket on the turbo, DEI gold tape all over the TMIC, and I even had the fins of my TMIC coated with CerakoteTM Heat Dissipation Coating. So I really honestly do hope that this helps out with cooling as well.

Also just as an aside to Subtle Solutions, if this product does not work as advertised I will be expecting my money back, no if, and or buts. You have made a claim and I fully expect this product to back those claims up.
 

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To expand on Vermont's post, it should actually be easy to test the efficiency with a few degrees of accuracy.

1) easiest, lowest accuracy:
Measure IATs before/after. As you mentioned install is a cinch, so you can get pretty quick before/afters.

2) medium difficulty and accuracy:
go for a particular run, and immediately pop the hood and use an IR thermometer at a few points on the IC. Repeat the same run and measuring points. Something ideal would be a few laps of a track, or an autocross run.

3) expensive, accurate:
Use a thermographic camera. Especially if you set it on a gopro-type-mount aimed into your hoodscoop while driving. But at the very least, use it as you would do #2. But this is far more "data points" (one full image) and takes less time (so things dont cool, heat, etc)
 

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The only ways to prove whether this works, would be to put'er in a wind tunnel with a clear hood and watch where the smoke goes, or to install multiple RTD's placed along the top and bottom of the IC and monitor temps at varying conditions.

Having a buddy in the trunk of the car in front of you letting loose a few cans of spray paint might work, too. The more color on more of the intercooler, the better!
You could do any number of CFD analysis. That's pretty cheap.
What are you smoking? Can I have some?

The OTHER way to prove this works to to see if there is any type of drop in IC temps under WOT throttle from before it is installed.... A very quick before and after comparison will prove beyond a shadow of a doubt. This "mod" only takes a few seconds to install so there should be no time difference for heat up or cool down due to the ambient air temps. If this product does not in fact cool down the post TMIC charge air more than the stock setup then it's only purpose is engine bay dress up. As here is a quick blurb from there web site about what they claim this product does:



Which means I had better see lower TMIC temps after I install this product. I will also take a video and post up the logs once I get around to doing this. Might be about a week or so as I need to install my AEM IAT sensor that I have sitting in a box. Right now I in the middle of a heat war with my engine bay, I just got done wrapping my DP, turbo blanket on the turbo, DEI gold tape all over the TMIC, and I even had the fins of my TMIC coated with CerakoteTM Heat Dissipation Coating. So I really honestly do hope that this helps out with cooling as well.

Also just as an aside to Subtle Solutions, if this product does not work as advertised I will be expecting my money back, no if, and or buts. You have made a claim and I fully expect this product to back those claims up.
A handful of thermocouples pre-intercooler, mid-intercooler, and post-intercooler with before and after comparisons would do well also.
To expand on Vermont's post, it should actually be easy to test the efficiency with a few degrees of accuracy.

1) easiest, lowest accuracy:
Measure IATs before/after. As you mentioned install is a cinch, so you can get pretty quick before/afters.

2) medium difficulty and accuracy:
go for a particular run, and immediately pop the hood and use an IR thermometer at a few points on the IC. Repeat the same run and measuring points. Something ideal would be a few laps of a track, or an autocross run.

3) expensive, accurate:
Use a thermographic camera. Especially if you set it on a gopro-type-mount aimed into your hoodscoop while driving. But at the very least, use it as you would do #2. But this is far more "data points" (one full image) and takes less time (so things dont cool, heat, etc)
Cameras are neato, and take cool pics, but if you've got 75 large hiding out just waiting to be spent on a full-spectrum IR camera, well, I've got a race team that sure could use some sponsorship! :tup:
 

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:lol: and good luck proving its effectiveness. More luck to you in going after a refund if your results prove it is not effective.
I understand what you're saying, but on the flip side, tons of companies put shit out (I'm not saying this product is shit, but you get my point) making all kinds of hot dog claims, yet when actually put under fire, many, if not most, fail.

Its like the "high performance water pump" that was/is being sold on this forum. Lots of claims that it does this or that, but every piece of evidence that's been offered up is all anecdotal. "Saying" a product does x or y is a looooooooooooong way from actually "doing" x or y.
 

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Update for every one concerned: Dropped off the TMIC to get the bung for the AEM intake air temp sensor welded on along with a bung for my Coolingmist CMGS meth nozzle. What I will be doing is using both the stock IAT sensor at the MAF housing and using the AEM right before the throttle body coupler on the TMIC (if you are looking at the front of the TMIC it will be just a little bit left of the TMIC outlet so it will have post inter cooler air temp but pre-throttle body). The AEM sensor is then going to be wired into the stock harness so I can log with it and the ECU can recognize and use it for my up coming speed density tune.

I then put in an order with Subtle Solutions for my TMIC air splitter. I also sent them an e-mail letting them know what I was planning and why I was planning it. I also explained to them that my wording in my previous post may have been a little abrasive :p and to explain my intentions.

Just to clarify with every one here as well. I am not going out on a witch hunt to put down this company. In all honesty I really do like their products and think they are of great quality, heck I have been looking for a used radiator shroud and alternator cover from them fora while now. The main issue I have is like I posted up before. Claims are being laid out with out back up facts for them. I am going to test this product to find out if it really does work as advertised. If it works I will be keeping this sucker as I am honestly looking forward to having cooler intake air temps.
 

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In for data. I know the Zero/sports splitter was originally created since there wasn't an a factory piece that directed air over the intercooler. Up to I think 2006 the WRX still didn't. I'm wondering if the data provided by Zero/Sports is indeed true. If it is, it might be worth a shot, especially if on a track to keep things cool.
 

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So, did more searching around and found a thread on splitters on NASIOC. A dude who posted in there measured the post IC (TB couopler) temps with a thermocouple with the stock and with the Zero/Sports splitter.

Apparently at 60 mph, the Zero/sports splitter only cooled things down a few degrees C (so, 8F maybe?), but he noticed at lower speeds, like 40 it cooled closer to 12C (20F?). I summize to say that when moving fast enough, the air flows evenly enough over the entire IC, but when at lower speeds, the air does indeed bunch up at the rear. Worth it? Eh, cooling the IC is always good, and for someoone who track it would be worth that extra bit of power/safety margin.

Now, this was all for a GD. It's not directly transferable to the GR/GV, but can help give more insight. My one reservation is how different the scoops are, as the GR/GV has a much wider scoop which should change how the air diffuses when it enters the open volume in the scoop.


TLDR; The zero/sports GD one marginally works better. Testing needed on the Subtle.
 

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Arg! Ima try and get the sensor wired up this weekend to every one who is tracking this thread. I have the spliter, I have the AEM temp sensor, and even have it tapped and installed in the IC next to BOV flange and throttle body connection. I just need to splice in two wires and wrap it up and I will be good to go. Been a combination of busy with school and super lazy when not busy.... Sorry....
 
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