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Discussion Starter #1
SO I have an 07STi that I love so much. I bought some bushings from Turn in Concepts but didn't know they are trash? At Mann Engineering told me their bushing ratings are not accurate at all ie. 65 to 75 to 95 they are inaccurate and worthless according to the Mann Engineering here in CA in the Bay Area. I bought the following for TiC for me 07 STI in hopes of restoring it (its 13 years old so bringing reliability and ride quality or most important before I head into buying suspension and engine upgrades. So what is everyone's take on the TiC kits, are they good, are you satisfied? Have you tired the race or comfort or perhaps both, what is the ride quality?. This shop told me I need to sell these bushings and use super pros, of course, they sell them and if you buy through them know hourly rate from, goes from $200 to $120... Couple other red flags with Mann is that they won't give you an invoice with detailed pricing so you cant shop around was their argument, which as a man of finance and real estate does not bode well or sit well with me another was despite being in the Subaru aftermarket scene for 25 years they still do not have their own tuner, I thought it was strange for a such a professional aftermarket shop but not have an in house tuner So please, Do I need to sell all $500 and buy super pros or will it work fine? Any input is greatly appreciated Subie gang

Unabomber Sexy Rear End from TiC includes they had was
1 x Kartboy Rear Subframe Outrigger Bushings - RACE
1 x TiC Subaru Rear Diff Mount Bushings - RACE
1 x Kartboy Rear Subframe Bolts

Also got the Turn In Concepts 2006-2007 STi Holy Shift kit includes:
1 x Kartboy 6MT front shifter stay bushing
1 x Kartboy Rear Shifter Stay Bushing
1 x TiC 6MT Pivot Bushings
1 x TiC 06+ Subaru Shift Linkage Bushings




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No one has replied so I'll try.

I don't know anything about the TIC parts. I did Perrin on the diff lock and lock down bolts. You will not gain ride quality from these parts. You will gain some steering/handling benefits. At first I thought I made a mistake, as the ride really was harsher, but either they softened up over time or I just got used to them. But I'm glad I did it. I also did the shifter bushings and that was very worthwhile. I think they were Perrin as well.

Just saying if you want a smooth ride, forget the lockdown kit and bushings. If you want better handling then I'd buy the non-race version.
 

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  • as above -
  • TIC is not bad
  • SuperPro might be better but I wouldn't sell the TIC stuff over it. If you are going to buy SuperPro, buy from Geoff at Cygnus Performance. Call him if needed.
* I would not deal with anyone who wouldn't provide pricing or told you the thing you wrote you were told.
 

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Lockdown kits are a bad idea. Those holes in the subframe and unibody are meant for alignment only. Trying to use them to prevent the bushings in the subframe from doing their job will only warp the metal surrounding the hole. If you want to stiffen up the subframe you need to remove it and install stiffer bushings. I went with Group N's. As far as mount bushings go you can use Group N or poly. For anything that cycles Group N will work much better. Poly adds more NVH than a comparable rubber and they require regreasing to prevent binding. I have TiC bushings in a couple places in my car and they work fine. I have the comfort bushings for the rear diff and the shifter linkage replacement bushings for the trunnion joint. The shifter linkage bushings needed some tweaking though. The steel bushings that came with TiC's shifter kit were too big for the poly and fit way too tight. I had some new smaller outside diameter steel bushings made that fit perfectly. The shifter is still nice and crisp after 5 years of driving the car mostly at autocross or time attack events. I wanted to tighten my car up and build a good foundation for my suspension components. I replaced every suspension bushing in the car. Mostly with Group N. The poly mount bushings I used in a few places had near the same durometer rating as the Group N rubber too keep everything consistent.
 

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They are not all similar bushing replacement kits?

They (TIC, SuperPro, and Group-N) sure look like the similar parts.
Yeah, I know the rubber vs polyurethane thing
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No one has replied so I'll try.

I don't know anything about the TIC parts. I did Perrin on the diff lock and lock down bolts. You will not gain ride quality from these parts. You will gain some steering/handling benefits. At first I thought I made a mistake, as the ride really was harsher, but either they softened up over time or I just got used to them. But I'm glad I did it. I also did the shifter bushings and that was very worthwhile. I think they were Perrin as well.

Just saying if you want a smooth ride, forget the lockdown kit and bushings. If you want better handling then I'd buy the non-race version.
Thank you for the response, I really appreciate it. Yea Im pretty sure Im going need to get comfort bushings instead of the race ones, Ill probably just get the Super Pros. Glad to know you noticed a nice worthwhile difference. Thanks again for taking the time to help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
  • as above -
  • TIC is not bad
  • SuperPro might be better but I wouldn't sell the TIC stuff over it. If you are going to buy SuperPro, buy from Geoff at Cygnus Performance. Call him if needed.
* I would not deal with anyone who wouldn't provide pricing or told you the thing you wrote you were told.
Ok yea Im glad Im not the only one that was sus of that situation. Their explanation was too many people get quotes and shop around, haha. I told them i want to see the actual breakdown prices per part, nope only after you pay and we begin work... Crooked as it gets. Thanks for the affirmation and response
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lockdown kits are a bad idea. Those holes in the subframe and unibody are meant for alignment only. Trying to use them to prevent the bushings in the subframe from doing their job will only warp the metal surrounding the hole. If you want to stiffen up the subframe you need to remove it and install stiffer bushings. I went with Group N's. As far as mount bushings go you can use Group N or poly. For anything that cycles Group N will work much better. Poly adds more NVH than a comparable rubber and they require regreasing to prevent binding. I have TiC bushings in a couple places in my car and they work fine. I have the comfort bushings for the rear diff and the shifter linkage replacement bushings for the trunnion joint. The shifter linkage bushings needed some tweaking though. The steel bushings that came with TiC's shifter kit were too big for the poly and fit way too tight. I had some new smaller outside diameter steel bushings made that fit perfectly. The shifter is still nice and crisp after 5 years of driving the car mostly at autocross or time attack events. I wanted to tighten my car up and build a good foundation for my suspension components. I replaced every suspension bushing in the car. Mostly with Group N. The poly mount bushings I used in a few places had near the same durometer rating as the Group N rubber too keep everything consistent.
So this is what I was told and am worried about. That basically the lockdown kits are great and make a major difference, I mean the traction and power translated to the wheels and ground is much more as seen in reviews on youtube but I have read and was told at Mann Engineering not to install as this causes damage to the unibody and subframe. Glad to know you are happy with your group N bushings and mounts, that is what I've been recommended for my applications but I am thinking going IAG street series for longer-lasting and hopefully not too much more NVH and comfort super pros. Curious how long have you been running the group N bushings and mounts for, and idea how long they last? Appreciate all your input
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They are not all similar bushing replacement kits?

They (TIC, SuperPro, and Group-N) sure look like the similar parts.
Yeah, I know the rubber vs polyurethane thing
They are the same but at the tuner, showed me what comfort was on super pros and compared to the TIC the comfort was as hard as the race ones for super pros. Basically super pros have much more varying or accurate ratings on hardness so there is a difference between the different versions which translates into a better car for whatever application whether it is daily or strictly track super pros has a product that actually works as advertised supposedly. While other brands are careless with the difference in ratings some of these other companies compared to super pros im told plus they are apparently life long pretty much and don't need to be ever replaced I was told
 

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See above. I don't believe that any of those we are discussing are that inaccurate or worthless. or that they are so different that one will kill your car while other wont. Sure the harder the more NVH your going to have - and yes the more they will increase peak stresses. Life? So use dependant - and how long will you keep your car?
 

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So this is what I was told and am worried about. That basically the lockdown kits are great and make a major difference, I mean the traction and power translated to the wheels and ground is much more as seen in reviews on youtube but I have read and was told at Mann Engineering not to install as this causes damage to the unibody and subframe. Glad to know you are happy with your group N bushings and mounts, that is what I've been recommended for my applications but I am thinking going IAG street series for longer-lasting and hopefully not too much more NVH and comfort super pros. Curious how long have you been running the group N bushings and mounts for, and idea how long they last? Appreciate all your input
Sorry. Just saw this. I'm not crazy about this new format so I don't come around much anymore. Anyway to answer your question I installed the bushings around 2013. They should last a while. My car is garaged and doesn't get driven much so I expect that will help longevity. If you're worried about NVH rubber beats poly hands down. That said the Group N subframe bushings are flanged. They can be a challenge to press in. In this case I'm not sure NVH will be that bad either way. My buddy has an 05 STI and he told me that car came with metal subframe bushings.

To get the car to feel right when replacing bushings it's important to try and be consistent. I tried to used Group N everywhere I could, but ended up having to use poly in a few spots. In that case you want the durometer ratings to be as close as possible. I believe Group N bushings have a durometer rating of 75 (it's been a while so I could be off a bit) so I tried to match the poly bushings to that.
 

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Sorry. Just saw this. I'm not crazy about this new format so I don't come around much anymore.
Try setting the screen to dark mode.

Featurewise the new SW is vastly better, starting with the ability to attach pics. - and I have to admit it took me a bit to find everything. My only remaining complaint is that I can not always edit post posts - and my content here suffers for it.

I used to write the start find info, other quotes, often from this site, and cut and paste it into the existing post. Now if I can do it in a few minutes I might not bother since I might not be able to complete the post in an hour or two.

Are editing rules posted someplace?
 
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