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Discussion Starter #21
19k on a 2007?! Thought I was low miles (05 with 88k). I’m e85 tuned. Remember, e85 has a shorter shelf life than unleaded. Remember, it absorbs moisture faster. It seems you don’t drive the car a lot, like me with mine. If I let it sit for a while, I drain the fuel and refuel with fresh ethanol.
Thanks, but I live in the desert (just outside of Death Valley, typical humidity is single digits) so moisture should not be a problem here. And I keep my fuel in sealed containers in a shed that is kept just for my fuel. I suppose it could be bad fuel, but I buy my fuel 40 gallons at a time from a place that sells race gas and other high performance fuels, so I'm assuming it's good. Also I always add either Seafoam or Stabil to every 5 gallon container. My testing shows it's always been E85 or above. (as high as E90). (using Quick Fuel Technology test tube kit.)

But I am considering draining and refueling. What is the best method for draining the tank in these cars?
 

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Clearly you are not able to understand the difference between long term vs short term conditions.

The car's state of modification has not changed on 10 years and the tune is the same one run for 10 years. The recent changes in the cars behavior have been dramatic and short term.
Whatever. This is what your wrote "This tune never was perfected. The guy who did it was super busy and I only had 3 days for him to have the car and he was very busy. The tune has had drive-ability issues but nothing like this. The ECU would go psycho from time to time. By that, I mean the car would just die. Sitting at a stop light, car just turns off. Making a turn, it has turned off a couple of times. Sitting in the parking lot idling and it turns off. Starts right back up, no problem. And sometimes the idle will go all over the place. In 10 years I had these weird things happen about 10 times."

and just now "The car's state of modification has not changed on 10 years and the tune is the same one run for 10 years."

I still read this as new issues on top of old issues - but its your car . . . whatever . . .

I intended to write a better reply - by this web site is more cumber some than it used to be, and I didn't find an easy way to get the quotes I wanted.
 

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Clearly you are not able to understand the difference between long term vs short term conditions.

The car's state of modification has not changed on 10 years and the tune is the same one run for 10 years. The recent changes in the cars behavior have been dramatic and short term.

Whatever. This is what your wrote:

"This tune never was perfected. The guy who did it was super busy and I only had 3 days for him to have the car and he was very busy. The tune has had drive-ability issues but nothing like this. The ECU would go psycho from time to time. By that, I mean the car would just die. Sitting at a stop light, car just turns off. Making a turn, it has turned off a couple of times. Sitting in the parking lot idling and it turns off. Starts right back up, no problem. And sometimes the idle will go all over the place. In 10 years I had these weird things happen about 10 times."

and just now "The car's state of modification has not changed on 10 years and the tune is the same one run for 10 years."
I still read this as new issues on top of old issues Why? Because of your original post claimed one issue. Later we learn you were ignoring the ones above. Our earlier posts follow:

Hello,

I have a 2007 Sti with 19K miles . . . .a few months ago the DAM started acting very strange. It constantly takes DAM down to very low numbers. .3, .5, .6, etc.If I reset the ECU it starts back at .812, works it way up to 1.000 for awhile. Then starts dropping badly. Almost always this occurs when starting from a stop or taking very hard turns.
At that time I was already concerned about reseting the ECU to reset DAM without a resolution as to why DAM was dropping.

DAM dropping informs you that your car has a problem You shouldn't be pushing the car at all with low DAM or unknown codes. In fact I'd try not to drive it. Low DAM is a means foor the car to protect itself. Resetting it and pushing the car is hazardous as it prevents that. This is not strange behavior for a car with a problem!!!

Because of oil in the intake ringland, turbo issue or simple PCV problem. Could be that you just drive it that hard and needs an AOS but most people believe it's hard to do on street tires on the street. Your turbo doesn't have many miles on it. so if your usubg good oil and changing it frequently that's less likely. I'm going to guess ringland. Just a guess and I hope not. Certainly compression and leakdown are in order.
After re-reading it, I'll stick by it. But your car may have other issues. It's not uncommon not to be able to trouble shoot complex problems via the internet. Sometimes we can aim capable people to work their way through a problem. You sounded as if you had a chance - even if working through the diagnosis was just the beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
When I said the tune was never perfect, I meant that it had SMALL driveability issues. The issue was the tip in, or going from idle to just a little throttle. In fact the factory ecu/tune had this same problem and Subaru issued an update for it. When I was running 33% E85, this was before Subaru issued the update, the tuner had to figure out what the problem was and update his tune accordingly. When we switched over to 100% e85, we had the same issue and he was trying to get the driveability to be the same as what we had with the 33% E85 setup and what Subaru finally came out with for the factory tune. He told me the car was ready "except for that driveability issue we had before" but it was "probably close enough." I was moving and could not give him more time to tweak it. And we both agreed we'd work on it via email. (that's where the 25% lean/25% rich tunes came from.) It was a small issue. It had NOTHING to do with the type of issues I'm seeing NOW. As for the other thing, the car randomly dying, I have no idea what it is, but it's done it for 10 years and it's done it about ONCE a year. Again, NOTHING like what I'm seeing now with the DAM all over the place. It happens whether I'm moving or driving or idling. But it happens about once a year and does not return again... for another 6, 18, 24, etc months. Again, this is what I was referring to as "not perfect." None of the symptoms I'm seeing with the DAM issue are related to these issues. You are acting like this thing is a basketcase full of issues and I'm an asshole for driving it that way. Nothing could be further from the truth.

As for changing things ... all I have done to the engine in 10 years is remove the panel filter to a cone filter located in the wheel well. It's still going thru the factory box and MAF. I only did this because I live in the desert and wanted to go longer between cleanings of the filter. I just tripled the filter surface area. But it's all going thru the factory box, MAF, turbo inlet plumbing, turbo, TMIC, throttle body, etc. The ONLY change to the tune was the tuner gave me 3 E85 tunes. One in the middle, one 25% lean on the tip in and on 25% richer on the tip on. (I'm just repeating what he told me. He's out of the tuning world and I've lost contact with him, but he was a very reputable tuner and in all other respects the car has been right on the money.) So all I have changed it try the 25% lean, middle and 25% rich tune. I have experimented with the different ones.... but it's all the same tune.

If you note what Joshua posted you'll see the DAM issue is OFF BOOST, CLOSED loop. This is something the ECU is doing. It's not at WOT, so it's not the tuner.

This DAM issue is recent. Like on the last 10 times I've driven the car in a time span of about a month. The standard MO is when you have something out of the ordinary happen, you reset the ECU to see if it returns. That's what I did. Each time I'm trying to find what causes it to happen. Is it my driving style, is it the fuel, is it the weather, is it open loop or closed loop, etc. IOW what can I identify that coincides with the issue.

The only thing that I've been able to do is replicate two conditions: Hard lateral G's cause it to happen. Taking off from a stop can cause it to drop instantly but not every time. And backing up, bumping the parking stone in REVERSE causes it to RESET to 1.000.

So at this point it seems to me to be possible bad electrical connection, bad battery, bad ECU or the ECU is monitoring the brake fluid and adjusting the DAM for low brake fluid. I did refill the brake fluid, but have not had a chance to drive the car since. But as soon as I get it back together I will drive it again to see if that solved the problem.

NOTE: the car does not give a CEL or any other code OTHER than the P0442 which it's been doing for years. 0442 is a small leak detected in the EVAP system. That code is NOT triggered by the car actually running. It's triggered when the car does a test of the EVAP system. Based on my reading of the test, it has 99.9% nothing to do with any of the issues that would case the DAM to be changing like it's been doing the last month.

To recap, I have no CEL related to the DAM changes. The DAM issue comes in closed loop. And it seems to be related to the movement of the vehicle, not really the actual combustion of the engine. This is why I titled the post "Strange behavior for DAM."

I can only hope I have explained things so you understand the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You can see in this log the DAM is at .812 the entire time, no boost, closed loop operation and the feedback knock really ramps up at 4000RPM.

View attachment 58124
Joshua could piston rattling be interpreted as knock by the ECU? I'm wondering if the E85 has washed out the cylinder walls and caused an issue with the piston to wall clearance. I'm just guessing here. In the 19K miles I've done about 4 or 5 oil changes. I've read online that those who run E85 should be changing their oil about 3 times more often. That information is new to me. Is there any remote possibility that the E85 has caused this because of my "standard 5K mile oil changes?" There is a monitor in the ECU for piston slap but I have not been monitoring it because I thought that was limited to older subarus. But thinking about it, I have been going down on the oil viscosity. I used to use Mobile 1 10/40 and 15/40 in the summer because I live in a very high heat area. But I've lately I've been running Castrol 5W/ and then last time 0W/20. Do you think the combination of the super low viscosity oil running with E85 and "normal" oil change schedule could cause piston slap, and now its been cold (for my area) that the ECU is detecting as knock? This issue did just come up the last month and here it's normally 80' and 90' in Oct but in Nov.Dec.Jan we get down around freezing and the daytime temps are usually 40's/50's. This would be easy to test, all I gotta do is change the oil. :)

LMK what you think. I'll probably change the oil anyway and send it into blackstone.
 

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It is normal to run 5 or 10 W40. Normal means almost always. Perhaps a bit thinner would be OK with no e85 due to low mileage. Even your manual suggests 5W-30 at a minimum. Well, it's is the fuel efficient recommended oil for "normal use". But everything and everything except arctic temperatures indicates more frequent changes and thicker oil - up to 10 or 20W-50. Everything and everything includes short trips, harder driving, dusty conditions. Also shortly after SOA began requiring Synthetic oil.

Currently the S209 requires Motul 5W-40, - exactly what so many of us run . . .
 

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Hello,

I have a 2007 Sti with 19K miles. It spends most of it's time in the garage. Starting a few months ago the DAM started acting very strange. It constantly takes DAM down to very low numbers. .3, .5, .6, etc.If I reset the ECU it starts back at .812, works it way up to 1.000 for awhile. Then starts dropping badly. Almost always this occurs when starting from a stop or taking very hard turns. The car is mostly stock except for: Switched over to 100% e85, 1100 injectors, walbro pump, tune of course. home made CAI, and that's it for the engine. There is a lot of oil in the intake/TMIC. I plan to put a AOS on it soon but the car had been running very very well for 10+ years with the setup as described. The vacuum is good on the engine. Blipping throttle will drop down to about 11inch of HG. The only codes are P0442. Which I have had for years. I can't find what the cause of that is. It comes and goes. I have no smell of fuel anywhere. I have overfilled the fuel tank a few times but that was long ago before any of this started. The car does have coilovers on it and I've done the Perrin Diff Lockdown and some other bushings in the rear. It also has an X-brace. However all of these (except for the lockdown kit and bushings) have been on the car for 10 years. The only real mod I've made lately is the lock down kit. It did add to the NVH.

Does anyone have some ideas on what I should be monitoring (Cobb AP) to find what is causing this issue with the DAM?

Thanks.
What else are you monitoring? Perhaps you are too focused on the DAM? Compression, plugs, UOA?
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Okay I got it put back together and took a very short ride. Within a minute the DAM was back to zero and it was running terrible. I'm 99% sure it's the engine. It's got a dead hole (or more). I can hear it in the exhaust. Yes, I know I could do a compression and leak down test, but I know a dead whole when I hear it. I gotta fine a shop to rebuild it. Thanks for all the help.

And still no CEL. :) Only code was cylinder 4 misfire.
 

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That cel code is related to the fuel purge/evap system.
It usually means you have an inlet leak.
Diagnostic info is in your FSM.

Misfires are related to plugs, coilpacks, compression.
The cel is calculated from the crank & cam sensors.
But you can pull the plugs read them, replace if required, swap around coil packs to blind test for coilpack failure, or compression and leak down test it.

Basically if you do some research around the issues, you’ll find you’ll be in a better position to maintain your car’s performance.
 

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Okay I got it put back together and took a very short ride. Within a minute the DAM was back to zero and it was running terrible. I'm 99% sure it's the engine. It's got a dead hole (or more). I can hear it in the exhaust. Yes, I know I could do a compression and leak down test, but I know a dead whole when I hear it. I gotta fine a shop to rebuild it. Thanks for all the help.

And still no CEL. :) Only code was cylinder 4 misfire.
A "dead hole" could just be a plug, coil-pack or injector. Course it might be a valve or piston, No reputable shop would rebuild an engine without knowing it was needed. That means compression and leak down are in order . . . hmmm . . . the guy who first responded wrote that days ago. You do them first cause it confirms or rules out major stuff before you go tinkering trying to determine other causes - though plugs and coil packs are not difficult . . . I always keep a good coil-pack around just for this . . most people don't have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Yes before I would take it to a shop I'd at least do a compression test and leak down. I have the equipment for both. I'll start with cylinder 4 since that's what the code shows. There is nothing more I'd like than a bad coil pack or plug, etc. The misfire code I've had since the car was brand new. It's always had that from time to time and it's always been 100% upon leaving from a dead stop and the cylinder has always been random. That I recall the misfire codes never triggered a CEL so I just got used to the occasional code and reset at needed.

Thanks
 

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A few things to check


First you mention that something happens with evap? Change the purge valve, check hoses.

On my 06 the coil pack connector clips are mostly broken, using mini zipties keeps them solid however when one breaks it'll get a random misfire if the clip backs off a little.

Check your battery, make sure it's bolted to the car solidly and the terminals are solid, the cables are tight. Also check all grounds, clean them, reattach.



Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #33
A few things to check


First you mention that something happens with evap? Change the purge valve, check hoses.

On my 06 the coil pack connector clips are mostly broken, using mini zipties keeps them solid however when one breaks it'll get a random misfire if the clip backs off a little.

Check your battery, make sure it's bolted to the car solidly and the terminals are solid, the cables are tight. Also check all grounds, clean them, reattach.



Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
Thanks for the suggestions. I will check everything.
 

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On my 06 the coil pack connector clips are mostly broken, using mini zipties keeps them solid however when one breaks it'll get a random misfire if the clip backs off a little.
the clips/zip ties keep things fixed in place - and the connections are less likley to move or vibrate and cause momentary poor connections.
 

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Hello,

I have a 2007 Sti with 19K miles.....
... The only codes are P0442. Which I have had for years. I can't find what the cause of that is. It comes and goes. I have no smell of fuel anywhere. I have overfilled the fuel tank a few times but that was long ago before any of this started. ......

Thanks.
regarding code P0442, I had that, it was setting every other tank or so. (And, thanks Subaru, that's a pain on a road trip when you WANT to use the cruise control that any code disables.) It turned out to be the pair of evap system valves that are on top of the tank that you have to drop the rear end and tank to get to. :mad: That was a $1000+ bill I didn't really want. The valves were found to have small cracks. My car gets Cali premium so nowhere near the ethanol count of yours. I haven't heard if these valves last as long in E85 or whether it was just old age and a stiff suspension that caused these to fail.
 
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