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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 2007 Sti with 19K miles. It spends most of it's time in the garage. Starting a few months ago the DAM started acting very strange. It constantly takes DAM down to very low numbers. .3, .5, .6, etc.If I reset the ECU it starts back at .812, works it way up to 1.000 for awhile. Then starts dropping badly. Almost always this occurs when starting from a stop or taking very hard turns. The car is mostly stock except for: Switched over to 100% e85, 1100 injectors, walbro pump, tune of course. home made CAI, and that's it for the engine. There is a lot of oil in the intake/TMIC. I plan to put a AOS on it soon but the car had been running very very well for 10+ years with the setup as described. The vacuum is good on the engine. Blipping throttle will drop down to about 11inch of HG. The only codes are P0442. Which I have had for years. I can't find what the cause of that is. It comes and goes. I have no smell of fuel anywhere. I have overfilled the fuel tank a few times but that was long ago before any of this started. The car does have coilovers on it and I've done the Perrin Diff Lockdown and some other bushings in the rear. It also has an X-brace. However all of these (except for the lockdown kit and bushings) have been on the car for 10 years. The only real mod I've made lately is the lock down kit. It did add to the NVH.

Does anyone have some ideas on what I should be monitoring (Cobb AP) to find what is causing this issue with the DAM?

Thanks.
 

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DAM dropping informs you that your car has a problem You shouldn't be pushing the car at all with low DAM or unknown codes. In fact I'd try not to drive it. Low DAM is a means foor the car to protect itself. Resetting it and pushing the car is hazardous as it prevents that. This is not strange behavior for a car with a problem!!!

Because of oil in the intake ringland, turbo issue or simple PCV problem. Could be that you just drive it that hard and needs an AOS but most people believe it's hard to do on street tires on the street. Your turbo doesn't have many miles on it. so if your usubg good oil and changing it frequently that's less likely. I'm going to guess ringland. Just a guess and I hope not. Certainly compression and leakdown are in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply. Are there any things I could be monitoring/logging on the Cobb AP that would point me in a direction?



Thanks
 

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Well if the car isnt throwing a check engine light or any fault codes this will be hard to pin point. I would start by removing the intercooler and cleaning it out. Fill it up with break clean and empty it out a couple of times. Blow out all the fluid and oil in it. Do this a couple of times to try and get as much oil out as possible. I would also go ahead and replace the pcv valve on the car just due to age. Im one of those guys that is NOT on the AOS wagon.

After cleaning out the TMIC, perform a compression and leak down test to verify engine health. If your results are good, replace the spark plugs while you're there.

While i do agree with the above about not driving the car further, it may be needed to continue driving the code to see how DAM will change after repairs or if the car will throw a code/check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I don't have much time right now, but I'll do it as soon as I can. I have other vehicles I can drive in the mean time.

Thank you.

P.S. Yea, I already bought a new PCV valve, I'll be replacing and retaining it when I put the AOS on. Btw, if I may ask, why are you not in favor of an AOS?
 

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As others have said, the DAM dropping is a sign a significant problem. The ECU is doing this to protect your motor from damage. Watch your knock feedback. We've seen a lot of bad fuel this season causing knock issues. Not sure how wide spread this is..

Take some logs of the conditions that are dropping your DAM and email them to me: [email protected] and I'll review them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
As others have said, the DAM dropping is a sign a significant problem. The ECU is doing this to protect your motor from damage. Watch your knock feedback. We've seen a lot of bad fuel this season causing knock issues. Not sure how wide spread this is..

Take some logs of the conditions that are dropping your DAM and email them to me: [email protected] and I'll review them.
Thanks Joshua, What items would you like to see in the log?
 

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At a minimum I'd suggest these:
A/F Sensor #1 Ratio
Calculated Load
Commanded Fuel Final
Coolant Temperature
Dynamic Advance Multiplier
Engine Speed
Feedback Knock Correction
Fine Knock Learning
Ignition Timing
Intake Temperature Pre-Turbo
Manifold Rel. Pressure
Mass Airflow Voltage
Throttle Position
Wastegate Duty
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
UPDATE: The ABS and DCCD thing was just low fluid. I swear I checked that just a couple months ago.... Feel kinda dumb on that. I'm wondering if the DAM monitors the ABS/DCCD? Driving straight line the DAM is fine. It was only starting from a stop and taking turns. I've got the car torn apart I'll have to wait till I get some time to put it back together to test it out.

UPDATE: the CobbAP did not save the data. I can only guess that I did not give it time to save before I stopped logging and turning off the car. It was a really good log because everything was great for the first 2 miles then upon taking off from a stop sign on an incline it dramatically changed. So I went out and did another. And now something is wrong with one of the diffs. I had a hard time turning and backing up. Like the e brake was on. Made some nasty sounds as well. I think I'm in some trouble here. :-(

I will email you the one log I did get.

Thank you for your help.
 

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I dont think the abs and dccd has anything to do with DAM monitoring by the ECU. If you were low on fluid, im guessing you topped off the master cylinder. As for your turning issue, it sounds like there is some binding going on. Do you have the center diff set to full lock? Try setting the diff to the unlock setting or all the way down on your dccd control.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I dont think the abs and dccd has anything to do with DAM monitoring by the ECU. If you were low on fluid, im guessing you topped off the master cylinder. As for your turning issue, it sounds like there is some binding going on. Do you have the center diff set to full lock? Try setting the diff to the unlock setting or all the way down on your dccd control.
The issue there was once the ABS light came on the next time I drove it the diff was locked. As soon as I topped off the brake fluid the diff when back into auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
You can see in this log the DAM is at .812 the entire time, no boost, closed loop operation and the feedback knock really ramps up at 4000RPM.
I'm color blind so I had my son help me. (It's really hard for me to read these graphs always a problem with me.)

Closed loop means in the O2 sensor. So what about the A/F? If the A/F is right then what is causing the knock? The oil in the TMIC? Or something else?

Is the short answer "the tune?" But that does not make sense to me since this is closed loop. Since this is E85 is there something on the correction factor that is off?


Thanks for the help.
 

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That would make that tough to read!
Closed loop means it is targeting stoich. It's sitting right there too, so A/F is fine. ~31 degrees of timing should be fine there too since you are pulling a little bit of vacuum. Looks like you have a custom tune: Gray_LC_1100_100_v2stm25Rich.ptm ? The map is probably locked but I'd be happy to try and look at it.

How long has this been going on for? Is it possible you have a bad tank of gas?


I'm color blind so I had my son help me. (It's really hard for me to read these graphs always a problem with me.)

Closed loop means in the O2 sensor. So what about the A/F? If the A/F is right then what is causing the knock? The oil in the TMIC? Or something else?

Is the short answer "the tune?" But that does not make sense to me since this is closed loop. Since this is E85 is there something on the correction factor that is off?


Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There is only one place where I can buy e85 and I buy 40 gallons at a time. They sell a lot of race fuel and stuff so I think they have a pretty good turn over of fuel.

It somewhat came all of a sudden. This tune never was perfected. The guy who did it was super busy and I only had 3 days for him to have the car and he was very busy. The tune has had drive-ability issues but nothing like this. The ECU would go psycho from time to time. By that, I mean the car would just die. Sitting at a stop light, car just turns off. Making a turn, it has turned off a couple of times. Sitting in the parking lot idling and it turns off. Starts right back up, no problem. And sometimes the idle will go all over the place. In 10 years I had these weird things happen about 10 times. But the current issues are on a whole nother level. The car has always run very well. Even mileage is quite good for e85 and power is very acceptable for a nearly stock Sti. He gave me 4 tunes. 1 for gas, 3 for E85. He gave me his "best one" and then one 25% lean and one 25% rich. I ran the 25% lean for years w/o any issue. When I switched from the panel filter to a cone in the fender I switched over to the 25% rich. And that's the one I've been running for about a year or two. I mainly did it to be "safe" but the car does seem to have more power with it.

The other issue is the P0442 code which I get quite frequently. About ever other or ever 3rd time I drive the car. I've checked for vacuum leaks, hoses off, cracked etc. The tuner did put in the walbro pump but that was 10+ years ago and the P0442 only cropped up the last year or so. (I only drive the car a little and it can sit for months at a time.)

Yes it's a custom tune. I'll email you.
 

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Early and recent descriptions are not "ideal" ways to run a modded car.
Guessing is not an "ideal" way to tune/run a modded car.

You claim it's been fine for 10 yrs, but your descriptions are those of a car with issues from the start.

Your informing us of the issues while simultaneously telling us it's been fine!. So t's not an issue ? It just doesn't run!!! Getting it running isn't going to fix the other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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Discussion Starter #19
Early and recent descriptions are not "ideal" ways to run a modded car.
Guessing is not an "ideal" way to tune/run a modded car.

You claim it's been fine for 10 yrs, but your descriptions are those of a car with issues from the start.

Your informing us of the issues while simultaneously telling us it's been fine!. So t's not an issue ? It just doesn't run!!! Getting it running isn't going to fix the other issues.
Clearly you are not able to understand the difference between long term vs short term conditions.

The car's state of modification has not changed on 10 years and the tune is the same one run for 10 years. The recent changes in the cars behavior have been dramatic and short term.
 

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19k on a 2007?! Thought I was low miles (05 with 88k). I’m e85 tuned. Remember, e85 has a shorter shelf life than unleaded. Remember, it absorbs moisture faster. It seems you don’t drive the car a lot, like me with mine. If I let it sit for a while, I drain the fuel and refuel with fresh ethanol.
 
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