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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Love the attention to detail with your build. I plan to also send mine out to SoCal for the same treatment yours had. Anything to try and hit that 400whp mark....even though I plan to have power capped around 375/375. I worry the amount of torque that low in the RPM range wont play nice with the bottom end bearings.

Also, I saw SoCal offers porting services for the throttle body and the TMIC aluminum Y piece that mounts to the backside. Figured I would send those along to be ported and also have the Y piece coated to help keep the intake temps down.

Have you looked into Speed Density at all? I am on the fence about it. I know the Spec C's had an extra IAT sensor in the intake manifold that I am told helped make their AVCS tuning more aggressive. Any insight on this?
Thanks man. Like the FA20DIT, the torque should really only become a problem if you tune for too much boost at low RPM and are consistently going WOT in high load situations (eg 5th/6th gear, uphill, etc.) at ~2K RPM or below.

Ceramic coating the y pipe is a great idea to keep the temps down. I was going to pick up a set of ported TGV deletes from SoCal porting, but they're can't sell them anymore due to the EPA cracking down on emission tampering modifications. Some tuners won't even tune TGV deletes now.

Having an IAT sensor monitor post TMIC temps is a great tuning aid. The FA20DIT has both the pre-turbo IAT & manifold (post-TMIC) IAT sensors. The manifold IAT sensor is valuable because it's the air charge temp that the engine is actually ingesting for combustion. For example, say your turbo and TMIC are heat soaked, the intake manifold IAT will clearly reflect this while the pre-turbo IAT will be elevated due to increased under hood temps, but may not show the full extent of the problem. The ECU may undercompensate and not add enough fuel, remove enough timing, etc. which could lead to a knock condition. The intake manifold IAT allows for more accurate tuning since you know the actual air charge temp rather than interpolating it based on the intake IAT and other inputs.

The fundamental function of the ECU (EFI system) is to measure airflow (translating it to engine load) in order to inject the proper amount of fuel for the mass of air entering the engine.

The MAF is a wonderful system because it measures the actual mass of air coming into the engine to determine the load input (g/sec). By directly measuring the mass airflow and knowing the injector flow rate & target AFR, the ECU can simply calculate the necessary injector pulsewidth.

Speed density is more common for high power builds where they exceed the amount of airflow that the MAF sensor can accurately measure. Speed density indirectly calculates the mass airflow using the ideal gas law based on numerous inputs and a VE table. It primarily relies on the MAP & manifold IAT sensors, but calculates the mass airflow based on the engine displacement, number of cylinders, RPM, air density, air pressure, air temperature, etc.

COBB's software allows for " Hybrid Mode" which uses both MAF and Speed Density with dynamic logic that switches between the two under the proper conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Nick, what are you going to do now that Cali is checking ECU tunes? I really wanted to see your build with all the OEM parts.
I honestly don't know.. I've lost some sleep at night thinking about it.

I had planned to upgrade the fuel system and run E85/flex fuel, but I've given up on that idea because I don't want to have to swap back to the stock injectors, etc..

I can run the VF58 twin scroll setup on the stock injectors & stock tune for smog time, but I will be severely limited on top-end power running the stock injectors. However, I'll still get the improved responsiveness and low/mid-range.

Overall, I'm just not sure. It's a lot of money for this setup to be limited and worry about California's ever growing restrictions. I've been contemplating on selling the setup and keeping the powertrain stock.. but I've invested so much time and money into obtaining this setup as it was my dream build for an OEM+ STI. I don't know how the next gen STI FA24DIT will turn out.. but it has a lot of potential depending on what they do. With an ethanol sensor & stock fuel system, I think it will be capable of 350-400whp.

I have a feeling that California is going to continue pushing for EVs, probably raising fuel prices, registration fees/taxes, smog, etc. higher & higher on gasoline powered cars.
 

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That is a hard one once you commit past just a stage 1, 1+ tune into the depths of more mods/power. That right now is also a big one for me moving to bigger injectors and fuel pump for E85. You can no longer go back to stock tune without the headache of reverting everything back to stock. I wish Subaru had Direct Injected plus port fueled the EJ and most of our fueling issues (up to a certain point) would have been solved. I get the FA solved that, but bummer for the STI.

I did not buy the car expecting a 10 second quarter car with just a tune. Frankly I just wanted a fun car to drive without always spinning the rear tires (aka a10 mustang) on shifts. Unless your deal is competing against other cars/drivers this newest STI with just a tune/map is still pretty fun driver. JMO.

Good luck with your build. I was about to buy your fuel stuff for sale. lol. ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I did not buy the car expecting a 10 second quarter car with just a tune. Frankly I just wanted a fun car to drive without always spinning the rear tires (aka a10 mustang) on shifts. Unless your deal is competing against other cars/drivers this newest STI with just a tune/map is still pretty fun driver. JMO.
Totally agree. This gen STI is one of the last mechanical/tactile feeling cars in terms of the drivetrain, rod-linkage shifter, hydraulic power steering, etc. It's certainly not the fastest.. or even close to it, but it's a fun and engaging car to drive. I do wish that I had more twist roads in my area to thoroughly enjoy it. I do hope that COBB pursues a CARB certification for an upgrade package with larger injectors down the road. They told me they are working on getting a CARB certified stage 2 package together. All we have currently is a Stage 1+ CARB legal setup good for ~300whp +/-.

Meanwhile, the Mustang has the option for a CARB legal supercharger that puts out 750+ HP :( Sure, it's a silly amount of practically useless power, but at least they can still modify. The new 480 HP Mach 1 with the tremec transmission from the GT350 is appealing with its ~7,500 RPM redline.. except that when you add the handling package & recaro seats it's a ~$60k car. Also, by the time you shift from 2nd to 3rd (at redline), you're at breaking the speed limit speeds.. 3rd gear will take you over 100mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
Maybe just leave it stock, and enjoy it.

You don't have much options tbh. Or move from California.

It's only going to get worse.
True, that's likely what I'll do. Would just have to find a buyer for my VF58 twin scroll conversion kit if I go that route.

We love the outdoors in California though. Mainly, my wife is a nurse and California pays better than any other state. She makes ~2.5x what she made on the east coast.
 

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California cost of living eats up a lot of that higher pay though. You could get into any of the newer top 1000cc sportbikes for 15-18k if outright speed is your game. Really no need to modify those. I think the STI would get boring on highway non-twistie stuff imo. Need to fit the car to your locale and financial abilities in the end. Anywho, best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
California cost of living eats up a lot of that higher pay though. You could get into any of the newer top 1000cc sportbikes for 15-18k if outright speed is your game. Really no need to modify those. I think the STI would get boring on highway non-twistie stuff imo. Need to fit the car to your locale and financial abilities in the end. Anywho, best of luck.
Agreed on the bike. I'm considering getting back into riding as it's been ~10 years or so since my last bike. I sold it before we moved to California. I may just leave the STI stock-ish and buy a bike for some additional fun. I'll start smaller though, it's been too long for me to jump straight on a 1L sport bike :D

I really do enjoy driving the STI and it's great when I get to go on some twisty roads. I'm not into huge power, but prefer something more nimble, responsive and engaging. If I didn't have a need for a backseat right now, I'd probably have went for a ND2 Miata.. or maybe a used Lotus Elise/Exige or S2000. I do miss my S2000, but they've skyrocketed in price along with the Lotus. A CARB-legal supercharged ND2 Miata would be a nice toy.
 
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Agreed on the bike. I'm considering getting back into riding as it's been ~10 years or so since my last bike. I sold it before we moved to California. I may just leave the STI stock-ish and buy a bike for some additional fun. I'll start smaller though, it's been too long for me to jump straight on a 1L sport bike :D

I really do enjoy driving the STI and it's great when I get to go on some twisty roads. I'm not into huge power, but prefer something more nimble, responsive and engaging. If I didn't have a need for a backseat right now, I'd probably have went for a ND2 Miata.. or maybe a used Lotus Elise/Exige or S2000. I do miss my S2000, but they've skyrocketed in price along with the Lotus. A CARB-legal supercharged ND2 Miata would be a nice toy.
Nice! Lot’s of options. I did my sportbike gig (4 of them) in my 20’s-30’s. Just recently picked up a restored 400cc two stroke motocross bike to blow my hair back through the neighborhood. Wheelie city. lol. YamahaSHO has a built turbo S2000 he might sell you. ;)
 

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True, that's likely what I'll do. Would just have to find a buyer for my VF58 twin scroll conversion kit if I go that route.

We love the outdoors in California though. Mainly, my wife is a nurse and California pays better than any other state. She makes ~2.5x what she made on the east coast.
Not sure what line of work YOU are in, but I'm in Charlotte, NC, and can't find anything that pays substantially more in IT - especially when considering the cost of living difference. Most of the experience-appropriate jobs I've seen in California (20+ years IT infra engineer with cloud experience) pay substantially less than I make here in NC. It's also right on the border of South Carolina, which has no vehicle inspections of any kind - for better or worse! Just playing devil's advocate. :)

If you did decide to sell your conversion kit, I'm looking for a VF58 setup now (just picked up my 6th STI, a new 2021), and have cash ready to go. I'm not sure how much you've got into it, but I could guess - and definitely isn't a pittance! If you decide not to move forward with it, I'd love to take the project off of your hands, so we can see what this thing can do. :)

For reference, I'm a big OEM+ guy, like you. I have the JDM STI mirrors, which I bought new before I knew they were being discontinued, just finally found the start button with illuminated 'STI' logo, JDM horns, and a number of other little things... Currently deciding whether to go suspension or power first, with all of the S-car chassis stiffening bits in my cart, and deciding which springs and struts to go with - or to just go for the Ohlins R&T.

So, two best-case scenarios - move here, make what you do in Cali with half the cost of living (or less), or sell your stuff to me, fly out once it's done and tuned, and drive the thing! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Not sure what line of work YOU are in, but I'm in Charlotte, NC, and can't find anything that pays substantially more in IT - especially when considering the cost of living difference. Most of the experience-appropriate jobs I've seen in California (20+ years IT infra engineer with cloud experience) pay substantially less than I make here in NC. It's also right on the border of South Carolina, which has no vehicle inspections of any kind - for better or worse! Just playing devil's advocate. :)

If you did decide to sell your conversion kit, I'm looking for a VF58 setup now (just picked up my 6th STI, a new 2021), and have cash ready to go. I'm not sure how much you've got into it, but I could guess - and definitely isn't a pittance! If you decide not to move forward with it, I'd love to take the project off of your hands, so we can see what this thing can do. :)

For reference, I'm a big OEM+ guy, like you. I have the JDM STI mirrors, which I bought new before I knew they were being discontinued, just finally found the start button with illuminated 'STI' logo, JDM horns, and a number of other little things... Currently deciding whether to go suspension or power first, with all of the S-car chassis stiffening bits in my cart, and deciding which springs and struts to go with - or to just go for the Ohlins R&T.

So, two best-case scenarios - move here, make what you do in Cali with half the cost of living (or less), or sell your stuff to me, fly out once it's done and tuned, and drive the thing! :)
Small world! I grew up in the Lake Norman area (outside of Mooresville), went to UNC Chapel Hill & worked at Duke University before moving to Cali. I work in IT too.. my salary is pretty comparable to what I would make in NC (low 6 figures).. but obviously the cost of living is much lower there. However, my wife would go from $90/hr to ~$35/hr as an Cardiac Surgery ICU CCRN.

Honestly, I still haven't decided what I'm going to do. I spent so much time researching the parts required and sourcing them from Japan.. and then there's the actual money I've invested 😂. It took me over a year to just source a VF58, they're nearly impossible to find. I will definitely keep you in mind. If I sell, I want it to go to a good home, someone like you that truly appreciates rare JDM OEM+ parts.

With the OEM VF58 turbo, rebuild & upgrades by ASEL, porting & ceramic coating by SoCal Porting, OEM S208 header & downpipe/frontpipe, misc brackets, coolant hoses, oil lines, nuts/bolts, fittings, etc... I have at least $5k invested. Most Subaru enthusiasts that aren't addicted to OEM parts would consider this is insane and say that you could buy a COBB 20G or Blouch DOM 1.5 XTR for so much cheaper.

For struts/springs, I've been debating on either the S208 Bilstein DampMatic II struts & STI pink springs or the Ohlins. The Ohlins aren't OEM, but they're nearly the same price and will ride/perform better. The only downside to the Ohlins (as with all coilovers) is that they will need to be rebuilt eventually. Both options will offer improved performance and ride quality. I just feel that the Ohlins are the better option in both performance & value. The S-series stiffening bits are definitely a must have!
 
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Small world! I grew up in the Lake Norman area (outside of Mooresville), went to UNC Chapel Hill & worked at Duke University before moving to Cali. I work in IT too.. my salary is pretty comparable to what I would make in NC (low 6 figures).. but obviously the cost of living is much lower there. However, my wife would go from $90/hr to ~$35/hr as an Cardiac Surgery ICU CCRN.

Honestly, I still haven't decided what I'm going to do. I spent so much time researching the parts required and sourcing them from Japan.. and then there's the actual money I've invested 😂. It took me over a year to just source a VF58, they're nearly impossible to find. I will definitely keep you in mind. If I sell, I want it to go to a good home, someone like you that truly appreciates rare JDM OEM+ parts.

With the OEM VF58 turbo, rebuild & upgrades by ASEL, porting & ceramic coating by SoCal Porting, OEM S208 header & downpipe/frontpipe, misc brackets, coolant hoses, oil lines, nuts/bolts, fittings, etc... I have at least $5k invested. Most Subaru enthusiasts that aren't addicted to OEM parts would consider this is insane and say that you could buy a COBB 20G or Blouch DOM 1.5 XTR for so much cheaper.

For struts/springs, I've been debating on either the S208 Bilstein DampMatic II struts & STI pink springs or the Ohlins. The Ohlins aren't OEM, but they're nearly the same price and will ride/perform better. The only downside to the Ohlins (as with all coilovers) is that they will need to be rebuilt eventually. Both options will offer improved performance and ride quality. I just feel that the Ohlins are the better option in both performance & value. The S-series stiffening bits are definitely a must have!
Hah - yeah, small world! That's definitely a huge difference for your wife! I'm lucky, my wife is also in IT, and makes about the same as me, so there's little to no drive to leave the area, other than disdain for the people here. haha

You and I really are on the same page with all of this. I've debated the same struts and springs, but figured that's one place where it just doesn't make enough sense to go OEM, when considering the cost. It's still a possibility, but definitely leaning towards the Ohlins.

As for your investment - I'm honestly surprised it's that little, of course not knowing how much it cost you to have ASEL and SoCal Porting do all of that work. You couldn't do a low-end EFR setup for that much, if you include a decent header! If I don't end up going JDM TS, I'll probably do the new VF48 High Flow, with a Killerb header. It will probably be a bit before I start picking up parts, so you've got a while to decide - but I'm ready to go if you do decide to sell!

I see this world of modified cars changing VERY rapidly, and I don't like it. Don't get me wrong - I completely understand WHY, and I'm not necessarily opposed (though I'd be less opposed if I felt it would have a genuine impact, vs. other efforts), but it's what I've enjoyed doing for my entire life, so it's going to be really hard for me to move on from it. I can't imagine how much harder it must be for you guys in California right now. I actually decided back in June to order this STI, because I figured it would be the last chance I had to get a proper, raw STI... That, and my wife loved hers, but made the decision to trade it for an X3 M out of necessity, as she's going to need to start doing some light (~3000lbs-ish) towing for her hobbies soon, so she pushed me to get another one.
 

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Honestly, I still haven't decided what I'm going to do. I spent so much time researching the parts required and sourcing them from Japan.. and then there's the actual money I've invested 😂. It took me over a year to just source a VF58, they're nearly impossible to find. I will definitely keep you in mind. If I sell, I want it to go to a good home, someone like you that truly appreciates rare JDM OEM+ parts.

With the OEM VF58 turbo, rebuild & upgrades by ASEL, porting & ceramic coating by SoCal Porting, OEM S208 header & downpipe/frontpipe, misc brackets, coolant hoses, oil lines, nuts/bolts, fittings, etc... I have at least $5k invested. Most Subaru enthusiasts that aren't addicted to OEM parts would consider this is insane and say that you could buy a COBB 20G or Blouch DOM 1.5 XTR for so much cheaper.

For struts/springs, I've been debating on either the S208 Bilstein DampMatic II struts & STI pink springs or the Ohlins. The Ohlins aren't OEM, but they're nearly the same price and will ride/perform better. The only downside to the Ohlins (as with all coilovers) is that they will need to be rebuilt eventually. Both options will offer improved performance and ride quality. I just feel that the Ohlins are the better option in both performance & value. The S-series stiffening bits are definitely a must have!

Nick, have you thought about the JDM S4 Bilstein Coilovers. They made 250 sets of them, and the ones STi had made were tuned and setup by their factory race team driver. I know where a set is actually. The never tried the DampMatic II, however the S209 setup is good, very good on the street and in the mountains. However, on a track it definitely leaves performance on the table. For a do it all setup that feels like stock, can carve mountains, and be an upgrade on a track it cant be beat.

Also, my search for a 08+ Twin Scroll Header continues thats not a hunk of crap. Its the only thing keeping my swap from being complete. If you do decide to sell your setup....you have a buyer with cash for the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Nick, have you thought about the JDM S4 Bilstein Coilovers. They made 250 sets of them, and the ones STi had made were tuned and setup by their factory race team driver. I know where a set is actually. The never tried the DampMatic II, however the S209 setup is good, very good on the street and in the mountains. However, on a track it definitely leaves performance on the table. For a do it all setup that feels like stock, can carve mountains, and be an upgrade on a track it cant be beat.
I actually tried to buy a set of those but missed out. I think if I do go with Bilsteins (whether Dampmatic or S4), I think buying a used set is where the value/performance is. I've seen a few Japanese reviews of the Dampmatics on the S208 and they were all very impressed with the balance of performance and comfort over bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Isn't the Damptronic an active shock absorber?
Yes, the DampMatic technology is used on the front shocks. It is a "mechanically controlled shock absorber adjustment system that guarantees a perfect harmony between performance and driving comfort".

Quote:
As the cooperation with Bilstein had proven highly successful on a previous special edition of the WRX, the German firm also equips the new STI S207 with a customized product package. The basic layout comes from the Bilstein B6 portfolio which consists of components that eclipse the ability of the original spare parts.

The individual features of the "suspension composition" are rather special. The DampMatic II technology implemented on the front axle has a mechanically controlled shock absorber adjustment to ensure perfect harmony between performance and driving comfort. Increasing body movement triggers an automatic increase of the required damping forces, which ensures maximum driving stability in combination with the passive Bilstein rear axle shock absorbers. A unique and mandatory feature of Bilstein components is that these shock absorbers also had to go through the renowned in-house test drive. The requirements of the race track were essential aspects for the involved engineers, who developed the individual setup of this super-fast Subaru. Consequently, the new WRX STI S207 provides driving pleasure without limits.

Quote:
The DampMatic System is based on a floating piston which opens or shuts a bypass to the main piston, depending on amplitude size. This function is independent of damper piston position and purely passive, i.e. controlled only by the flow and pressure conditions in the damper. It's a self-adjusting damping system that Bilstein combined with the B6 base dampers and STI's tuning. On rougher roads they will ride softer, and on smoother streets they will stiffen up. So you get a great high performance strut when you need it, and a decent comfortable ride when you need it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Took the car out for out for a joy ride today. I hadn't tested the 0-60 & 1/4 mile with the my final tune yet so I gave it a go. Dragy results:

0-60 mph (no rollout): 4.35 sec
0-60 mph (1-ft rollout): 4.12 sec

1/8 mile: 8.16 @ 83.89 mph
1/4 mile: 12.95 @ 103.37 mph

0-10 mph: 0.45s
0-20 mph: 0.91s
0-30 mph: 1.40s
0-40 mph: 2.45s
0-50 mph: 3.26s
0-60 mph: 4.35s

I'm happy with the results considering my car is mechanically stock, just my custom "stage 1" tune. I wish we had 93 octane here in California instead of ACN91 so that I could have squeezed a bit more out. The ET & trap speed match pretty closely with my dyno # of ~300 whp.

Will upload the dragy screenshots when I get a chance.
 
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Nick,

I think those numbers are great for a mechanically stock STI. I would say perfect for a street car. I'm glad your posting this data because I have a hard time relating how changes to a stock platform relates to a real world driving experience. For example, "My STI put down 330 WHP and 350lbs of TQ", I can't relate that to anything but other peoples dyno numbers, but I can relate changes to 0-60 times.

I'd love to see one of these big box automotive media outlets or even a vendor (like Cobb) take a stock STI and run it against a modified STI at the different "stages" and capture the type of data your capturing.
 
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