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Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Awesome build man! how do you like the 14k/13k springs? I have been using 10/9 for a while and seems to work well, same Feal 441s but on an 05. I will be out in there around the end of September. After I find a place to live I can't wait to get back to some autocross. How is the STU competition out there?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

I don't have the coils on quite yet, that's on the schedule for next week.

Before you come out, or when you get here, look me up. I'm a property manager and could probably get you in a nice place!

All my pulls have been done in 3rd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

8-19-2016
Fabricator got back to me with some fun stuff today!

A little side note, Wednesday while very casually mocking up my AWIC I noticed that it was about 3/4" too large, took out the sharpie and started marking things up and took that over to the fabricator as well.

I now have:

- AWIC which fits!
- Mounting plate for Res, Pump, and Battery in the spare tire location made out of 1/4" aluminum for rigidity. I'm going to attempt to only use one bolt in the center to hold all this down, and hoping the resulting pressure on the edges keeps everything tight.


Layout of the spare tire well currently:


I'm really close to the edge here:


Pump mounts directly to the base from underneath in this location:


Battery and hold down that was fabbed:



Designed this so I can still put a trunk liner down on top of it to retain the usage of my trunk! the level says I know how to read a tape which is great!:


I'm going to cut out a circle for the res cap, should look pretty cool hangin out in the middle of the trunk floor. The cap is nice, thick aluminum so I'm not worried about it getting damaged, and it will make access to the res easy:


This was about 12.5" wide when we started, the throttle body side was cut down slightly to gain the first 3/4" and then the pipe connection was shortened another 3/4" leaving just enough room to correctly clamp with a t-bolt clamp:



Some other measurements because it might be useful to someone, this thing fits with no problems now, it's actually a lot more narrow than a stock intercooler:






My challenge is going to be clocking the turbo correctly to clear the strut tower for minimal bends in the charge pipe, but I think I have a way.

This weekend I hope to get this system all buttoned up, so more updates to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Picked up the raw bottom plate and battery hold down yesterday, spent a few hours laying out everything and drilling. Also tapped the 1/4" base plate for the battery tie down screws, I did this so I didn't have to remove the whole plate to remove the battery. Using a M6 1.0 tap I figure 1/4" of thread should be enough with the force spread out over two bolts per side.

How everything sits in the spare tire compartment:


Better lighting here:


Battery hold down is super solid, the Shorai battery comes with some neoprene foam with a sticker back which I used to pad all the contact areas, provides a tight but soft fit:


Fittings and hardline to pump from res:


Going to be running bulkhead fittings through the side of the spare tire compartment and then run water lines under the car. I couldn't find a good path for the 3/4" ID lines to run inside the car, should make for a nice clean install too. Planning to run them down the drivers side frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Today was a bust, constant rain. My kingdom for a garage!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Spent the evening getting the AWIC all situated.

- Cut up some leftover FMIC piping to make a connector from the turbo to AWIC, dropped that off at the welder

- test fit the heat exchanger, actually fits really well with the bumper beam back in. I'm going to eventually make a frame to mount it to that will attach to the back of the bumper beam. However, because I'm pressed on time now, I will be trying to attach it directly to the bumper beam or with some very simple bracketry.

Test Fit:


Clearance:


Bumper clearance is good, need to trim a tad though:


Plumbing side clearance leaves something to be desired, I might have to take a small bit out of the bumper beam so the hose doesn't end up rubbing on anything:
 

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Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

I like what you're doing! Thanks for sharing :)

Why aren't you keeping the small battery in the engine bay?
Less extra wire.

I was thinking about relocating my new 1.7kg Battery in the trunk but decided it's not worth the extra work of routing cables through the whole car just to have 1.7kg less on the front.
I'm saving ~16kg over the stock Battery anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

I like what you're doing! Thanks for sharing :)

Why aren't you keeping the small battery in the engine bay?
Less extra wire.

I was thinking about relocating my new 1.7kg Battery in the trunk but decided it's not worth the extra work of routing cables through the whole car just to have 1.7kg less on the front.
I'm saving ~16kg over the stock Battery anyway.
Thank you! I'm just having fun finally being able to dig into this, been thinking about the process for years! Also, hopefully can help others build what they dream of. I'm learning a ton too which is fun. I didn't document my last build years ago and regret it, it's all about the journey not the destination you know :)

Why am I relocating the battery.... Well, I figure if I'm going to do something I want to do it once. My mindset with the car is to achieve the goal of a competitive Street Modified Subaru, which itself is quite a challenge. I figure if I can spend a little more time or money to create a beneficial situation I'm going to do it. Even though the battery only weighs 6lbs, that's 6lbs I can use to help better distribute weight in the car. Besides, it was really easy. I've done the relocation a few times already and there was no guesswork for me. Even the slightly extra weight of the cables (4ga) help distribute weight better. If you won't be racing the car, I doubt it would make a noticeable difference.

The other reason I would prefer the battery in the trunk is because I have two high draw components back there, the water pump for the AWIC system and my fuel pump. Both are run on relays, and hard wired, but I would like to keep the runs as short as possible from the battery to those two components.

Besides, it fits and looks really slick in the spare tire well :cool:

Also, I'm actually running a 4ga ground all the way up to the front of the car. I know I can just use the body to ground the battery in the trunk which I will be doing as well, but I have had many issues with grounds on Subaru's, and it's easy, cheap insurance. I will also be running a simple grounding kit in the engine bay for this reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i in Paradise // SM Class Build EFR 6758

Today couldn't have been much more productive. Really happy about that as I want a day to shake down systems before Race 3 this Sunday.

Welder got my turbo to AWIC connection back to me, it's not perfect and eventually I will take proper measurements and have a perfect piece made (probably out of pie cuts since the compound angle is really tight). This certainly works for now though.



I fabbed up a much more simple and equally as strong bracket system for the heat exchanger. Once I put some supports on the bottom of it, it will be rock solid. As it is, I can't move it at all and it would probably be fine, but there are threaded holes on the bottom of the radiator support and I might as well use them for something. I might someday end up building the frame I was thinking about but for now this will do. Made fully out of aluminum with stainless hardware (lots of salt in the air out here and mild metal just doesn't cut it).





Bulkhead fittings for the spare tire well thruholes came in yesterday so I got that area all setup first before I ran lines under the car. Step-bits are awesome and everyone should have one, all I gotta say. The routing looks kind of funky but my goal was to avoid kinks and keep everything contained within the spare tire well. I believe I accomplished my goal.


Three bulkhead fittings, -12 AN Feed, -12 AN Return, -10AN drain.




Under the car, the drain is the fitting without a hose on it, I didn't see a need to attach one unless I'm missing something.



Routed under the rear axle, between the T-Bar and the body, and then up and over the T-Bar, then down along the drivers side of the car.




Stainless steel hose clamps, and self tapping screws here to hold the hoses against the body.



Fittings for the heat exchanger would have came in contact with a small tab on the bumper beam, so that had to go. (shiny area on the beam). Fits like a glove now.




Everything is plumbed, and the hood closes, success!



I had to run an errand at this point, and by the time I got back it was dark. I have a headlamp though so that didn't stop me working, but it did stop me taking pictures.

- Ran 4ga + and - wire from engine bay to trunk for battery relocation

- Ran signal wires from center console to trunk for AWIC pump switch relay + loom

- Zip tie cable organized wires leading into the spare tire well, I will take pics of this tomorrow. Saw this on lifehacker once and it is just awesome, I would suggest googling it if you don't know what I'm talking about.

- Reinstalled door sill trim and B-pillar trim

- Filled reservoir and primed the AWIC system. I'm thinking there MUST be some air trapped in the AWIC since it's the highest point in the system, I need to figure out a way to burp it so I make sure I'm getting the whole core cooled evenly for best efficiency. Also noticed the water pump is loud, but I don't think I will be able to hear it over the screams of passengers so were all good.


Tomorrow will be all about buttoning up the wiring, and some driving while monitoring intake temps via my AP since I don't have the coin right now to drop on sensors. I do want to set them up someday though.

- Inline 100a breaker on battery + wire to engine bay
- Wire AWIC pump relay
- Wire Switch in center console
- Loom on everything in the trunk
- Affix battery charger to something in the trunk for ease of access
- Do one charge cycle on battery
- Remove battery up front and connect trunk battery
- Pray
- Drive if prayer worked

If those get done in a decent span of time I will also get the car RECON, Safety, and Registered tomorrow. I REALLY need to get this done so I can do suspension work and fix my alignment, it's just all wrong for the way the car is setup but I can't change it until I get the car legal.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

So..... more rain. Worked on and off Friday afternoon, got some small stuff done but today was more productive. Still rainy but I could devote the whole day.

Here was my list:
- Inline 100a breaker on battery + wire to engine bay Done!
- Wire AWIC pump relay Done!
- Wire Switch in center console Done!
- Loom on everything in the trunk Done!
- Affix battery charger to something in the trunk for ease of access Not done, will do Monday
- Do one charge cycle on battery Sunday Night
- Remove battery up front and connect trunk battery Done!
- Pray Done!
- Drive if prayer worked Initial fail, 100amp breaker was tripped.

Doesn't look terribly pretty, but here is the setup in the trunk. After taking this picture the main breaker was moved to the side of the battery because when the trunk floor was put in, sometimes it would inadvertently trip the breaker making for not fun times.


Trimed hole in trunk floor for easy access, probably going to remake the trunk floor with something a little more robust. I recall my wagon trunk floor having a support bar in it, I'm going to try and source one of them.


Carpet in:


My initial impressions are that the AWIC keeps intake temps more consistent overall. While the car was warming up I thought my IAT sensor was broken because the temp didn't move at all. Once I started driving I could see very minimal movement on the AP, but not the large swings like I would see with the FMIC.

The response is absolutely more crisp. I mash the pedal and there is no delay whatsoever, which will make tomorrows race much more fun I think. Also, I think the turbo is building boost faster than the motor can ingest it right now as I blew off the charge pipe twice during spoolup, I really cranked it on there and re-clocked the turbo to get out a small kink, and I don't think it's going to happen again... but, there was certainly some spool gained. We will see at the end of September, PDX tuning is coming out here and I will retune with the new AWIC, and a few other bits, on a slightly more aggressive tune.

When I blew off the charge pipe I noticed that there was some oil in the intake, my Crawford (yuck) AOS had no home since the pitchstop area was now taken and I had left it at around 60 degrees, obviously big mistake. I did some ziptie mechanic stuff and now it sits relatively straight, I guess we will see how long the zipties last directly above the turbo. Sometime in the future I will pick up a IAG AOS and mount it on the strut tower, possibly before the tune.

I'm also not happy with how things are organized around the turbo, when I take everything apart to wrap the headers, up, and dp, I'm going to re-organize that area. It's just too cramped.

Lastly, I think my next area of focus in the motor department is going to be venting the hood. It gets very warm in there, and some good venting would go a long way is alleviating that. Singular motorsports louvers will be the ticket I think.

Next week's list will be:

- Get the car legal on Monday
- Start swapping suspension and bushings
- Swap driveshaft
- Get a real alignment
- Shakedown driving
- Probably disconnect the rear sway bar, we will see.
- Fine tune the coils as much as I can without a course
- Wrap Headers, up, and dp, turbo blanket
- Order hood louvers
- Start planning for flares
 

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Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

Coming along great man! Is it difficult getting parts out there? I know shipping is way more expensive that the mainland. Also when does the AX season start and end? I think I said before ill be there end of September, car should be there in October.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

Coming along great man! Is it difficult getting parts out there? I know shipping is way more expensive that the mainland. Also when does the AX season start and end? I think I said before ill be there end of September, car should be there in October.
Getting most parts is easy, if you want to order something large like seats though that's a different story, be prepared to pay the shipping or make alternate arrangements.

Our first race was in July, and our last is in April, so you will come right in the middle! Depending when you get the car in October you might even be able to make run offs if you make every race.


Car performed really well today, after the suspension goes on I should be right at the front of the pack in SM. I think today I was either 2nd or 3rd in my class, a big jump from 5th last race, so we're getting somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

In the midst of two hurricanes I have managed to squeeze in a few hours to work on the car...

Having done all of these suspension mods once REALLY helped things move quickly. I will try and give pointers for a few of the trouble areas that I always encounter.

Passengers side complete. Whiteline roll center kit, whiteline front control arm rear caster adding offset bushing, and front control arm front bushing all pressed in and installed. I actually guessed how the caster adding offset bushing in the rear was supposed to sit, I wasn't so lucky with the drivers side and had to take that back to the machine shop and have it re-pressed into the correct position. I had all these bushings pressed in probably a year ago and didn't have a car to mock it up on at the time. Having a jack handy to bring up one side of the suspension to equalize tension on the endlinks is always handy:



Tackling the rear trailing arms and lateral links was something I really wasn't looking forward to. Last time I did this area I ended up scrapping the entire rear knuckle due to the 8" long bolt becoming completely frozen. This time, I prepped all the bolts for two days with penetrating oil, and went right in with my 345 ft-lbs electric impact. Those bolts didn't stand a chance. I guess not having suffered through 10 years of Utah winters, salt, and sand, like my wagon helped a bit too.

Blew through most of the hardware around the knuckle easily enough after my pre-soaking. Getting to the inner lateral links hardware was a different story. However, I remembered that if I jacked up the knuckle ( or if it was detached simply held up the axle ) I could get my breaker bar in there. In no time I had the passengers side ready to go. MSI trailing arms with heim joint front bushings, and SPC lateral links ( had truhart before with no problems, and these are a much higher quality from what I can tell ), all installed. Also, the bracket that is supplied with the lateral links allows me to rotate it horizontally so I can align my rear sway parallel with the lateral links after adjusting my endlink to compensate. I believe this will allow me much more control over how the rear loads in corners, and if I adjust everything correctly I can possibly avoid having to disconnect my rear bar to combat inner wheel lift in corners. Time will tell:


Very small bummer about the MSI trailing arms is that there are no provisions to attach the ABS sensor or parking brake, but I have some easy solutions for those which I will get to once everything is installed:


Of course once I got on a roll it started raining, and it was quickly getting dark. I'm going to attempt to finish up the drivers side lateral links in the morning and get the car back on it's wheels before hurricane Lester hits, just in case I need to move it for some reason. Either way, it's looking like my weekend is going to be completely shot for working on the car thanks to Lester, but we will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

With the custom core, -AN fittings, hose, and the setup in the trunk I would say around $2k all said and done including shipping. It's definitely not the most cost effective charge air cooling you can do. If I went with a Frozenboost core it would have knocked a good $700 off the total though, I just don't think those units are big enough to do much cooling at high rpm.
 

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Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

Just went on to frozenboost's website, I could get a majority of the components for about $500. It almost seems too good to be true when aftermarket TMICs are $600-1000 easily! I may pull the trigger on the AWIC set up. The Florida heat is just brutal lol

Overall, how do you like it the AWIC? Is it worth the complexity?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

For a DD? No way. I would go FMIC or TMIC all the way.

This whole build is min/max for a set of rules in the class I compete in, if I could run a FMIC I probably would, but I can't. A TMIC heatsoaks too much in between runs, and I can control the temperature of the water with ice if I need to with the AWIC.

I could have probably saved $400 in fittings and hose by going with cheaper stuff, but I would be constantly worrying if it was leaking, that's just me. Also, the pump wasn't cheap, but is a very quality piece. Fast, Quality, Cheap, you can only pick 2 when it comes to modding.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Re: Sti Swapped 2.5i // SM Class Build EFR 6758 - Getting Closer...

I got a good 6 hours in today and finished up just about everything I had slated for this next race.

Accomplished:
- Drivers side lateral links
- Attachment for ABS sensor's
- Swapped in the Feal 441 coilovers
- Removed the rear seatbelts
- Swapped in my DSS CF Driveshaft
- Transmission carrier bushings ( not the trans mount, the bushings in the carrier )
- Installed a replica lip I had laying around from a good friend, actually really like the look of it =)

Drivers side lateral links installed, I had some sears points so I picked up some large sized closed ended wrenches ( all I had previously were gear wrenches ) so get some better torque on the bolts, definitely did the trick:


Attachment for ABS Sensors, zip ties ftw!



Coils going in, super easy install. Drivers Rear, Drivers Front, Pass Rear, Pass Front:







Driveshaft going in. The bolts that come with the driveshaft are M10 I believe, and I had to drill out the rear diff axle holes. Took it really slowly and did it in two steps with slightly larger bits each time, ezpz. Can use all the stock covers and shields with it too, nice piece:



Trans carrier bushings were fast and easy. Jack up the trans, unbolt everything, replace bushings, reinstall.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Got everything cleaned up and went for a short drive to feel if I had missed anything. Of course theres always something....

#1- During left turns I get a clicking from the right side of the car, it's almost surely the rear axle I think. It sounds as if it coincides with the rotation of the tire, not the driveshaft, so I will take a look in the morning. I made sure to set the lateral links to the stock lengths before I installed them, however, combined with the 2" correction of the MSI trailing arms it might have pulled the knuckle out just far enough to be a problem.

#2- Also, as I was on my way back home, the car took a giant crap on itself and went into limp mode. Threw two CEL's: P0122, P0222 (Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A/B Circut Low Input) seems like this won't be too difficult to solve, I guess starting at the pedal switch and working back from there would be the best way. I reset my codes and started the car right back up with no problems, still going to investigate.



Aside from those two things, it's like a night and day difference. The car feels like it's on rails, and even with it's surely craptastic alignment right now turn in is good. I didn't really get on it because of issue #1, but once I get that looked at tomorrow I will take it for a good drive and try and break things. Overall, very happy with how everything sounds and feels. Also super stoked to be just about done with the mechanical and suspension bits on the car. Now I can focus on some minor interior bits, and planning out the Karlton flares and my wheel/tire setup.

Coming up next will be:
Interior
- 330mm Steering Wheel
- Sparco Evo2 Driver/Passenger seats w/ Buddy Club Sliders
- Moving around some gauges, possibly a multi-gauge to take the place of the Defi's
- Harness Bar
- Solid mounting the AP and a mount for my phone for Harry's Lap Timer

Exterior
- Karlton Flare's
- Need panel adhesive
- Need Wheels / Tires for fitment Enkei RPF1 18x10.5, Federal FZ-201 (if some things come through, possible sponsor) or Hoosier A7 315/30/18
 
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