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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i am new to this site and i am looking for some advise on my first wrx sti purchase...
If i have 5k less the mrsp CASH in hand (about 26k)and a 1992 accord which is the best dealer to go to to get a sti will all the options and just give them 26k plus the accord as a trade in.
I called some dealers thinking me having straight cash would give me an upper hand but most of them didn't seem to care.
They quoted me 31500-31900 for a black sti without any options added
Can any one reccommend a dealer that would possible take 27k with an accord as a final total (tax, reg, doc fee ect)
 

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As far as the dealer is concerned a straight cash deal is both good and bad.
Its good because the deal has much less chance of falling through.
Its bad because, the dealer can't make any finance $$$ on you. And also they can't look at your credit application to figure out how many $$$ to squeze out of you.
 

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Don't ask them what they'll do for you. Tell them that you have the cash in hand, the car, and that you want an STi with certain specifications for a certain price, with the right amount on your trade, all tax/title/bullshit covered. Maybe even spec it with an extended warranty. You don't have to tell them that you have cash in hand, because the price set on the car is somewhat disjoint from the financing/leasing/purchase options.

Spell it out for them, fax/email the offer to all of the dealers in the area with each and every dealer seeing the other dealers that you have on your list, and watch the wolves fight. Anything above invoice (the Accord has to be worth at least $1.5k-$2.5k, right?) will find a taker. When we bought my wife's Si on a whim, the dealer said "$19.5k, and that's the lowest I can go." I said "$16.8k or we're done talking." It took him a few minutes, but we drove out of there with the Si below invoice (at $16.8k).

The Subaru dealer here in Madison handed me a price of $31.1k when I was just looking. I responded by telling him that there was no way that I was going to pay over invoice for the car. He told me that he might be able to work something out, so don't rule him out. Just set your limit and don't haggle after setting what you believe to be a reasonable price. You'll do fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
got a question:
Is the invoice price for a base sti what the dealer paid for it =$29+K
and the msrp the amount they are selling for =$31+k ?????
chaboud, i plan to fax every dealer my final price and see what response i get back ie $31k (w. most options)
ps. I HAVE GOTTEN A $32200 DEAL SO FAR FOR ONE WITH ALL ThE OPTIONS.
what do you think of this deal?
 

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Where to get Sti Pink lowering springs?

Invoice is what the dealer pays for a car without incentives (they also have to pay the delivery charge). MSRP is the Suggested Retail Price (generally passing along the delivery charge). To note, with delivery, invoice on an STi is $29,130 and retail is $31,545 (according to Kelly's Blue Book). The PEP (dimming mirror and security), CF trim, wheel locks, and a boost gauge bump invoice by roughly $700 and MSRP by roughly $1100. The sweetest deal that you could expect on a well-optioned STi would be just about $30k before TTL, and you should have no trouble getting your total at or below $31k before TTL. You'll also want to push to avoid getting the shaft on your trade-in. If they're giving you a loaded car for $32200 after TTL, that's a very good deal.

With a buyer willing to pay MSRP, dealers stand to make a fair bit of money, but the STi isn't selling so well that they can gouge people for elevated prices. Take a look at the sticky dealers selling for Invoice thread: http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=4444.
 

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you'll always get a better deal in person than on phone or e-mail. What they tell you in those cases is just the starting point. Be ready to buy and they'll be more willing to negotiate. Also be prepared for a couple hours of negotiation so get your rest, do your research and know what you want.

I actually wasn't ready to buy when I went it to the dealer, but they said they didn't care, if I signed the contract I could bring in the money within the next week and they'd be cool with that... I had the money, just had to move it to my checking account, so I took their offer and paid the next week. I got 30,4 with turbo gauge, dimming mirror, security and arm rest in Evanston, IL. I knew what I wanted, but it took me a while to decide to actually take the deal and the more i hesitated, the more willing they were to go a little bit lower.

It's been two months since then so bargaining should be a little easier. In your case I wouldn't pay more than 30 flat for the same options as me. But don't forget to calculate tax... which could raise the final price an additional $1-2k.

Here's my story: http://asiandisco.basementproductions.net/sti/how_to_buy_an_sti.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the info filbert,
I will be going in with about 90-95% cash in hand so i intend to talk some shit to these dealers. i have a trade in but i am going to leave it behind because i know they are going to try and low ball me with that. I am trying to get a black one with gold rims with pretty much identical options.
Should i throw the $30 grand on the table and tell them what i want ???
OR should i start a little lower like 29,740 and search for loose change to make it to $30k (showing my desperation to get the car)
let me know
Thanks for all the input
I am just trying to make the right investment and not get shaft
 

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Dont even tell them you've got the money.

Just set a price you're willing to pay and tell them you're not going to be using their financing.....

Then tell them to put it in writing and lay the cash on the table.
 

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yeah, keep the money info until later when things start getting serious. personally, i would start at 29 flat. see if they'll bite. to be honest, i was expecting to pay 31. When I told the dealer 30, i expected them to say "that's crazy" but instead they said "I think that's possible" on the first round of negotiations! 29 is a little on the daring side, but that will say that you know what invoice is and what the going market price is headed towards, but it's not so low they'll think you're stupid. So start with 29 and be willing to work your way up. But don't go over 30.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am getting a blk and gold one with all the options and 24miles for $30.5K
What do you think filbert?
What do you think every one?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I haven't been to any dealers yet just talking to them on the phone.
as soon as i got below 31k a lot of the started dropping out of the race. So right now i have a potential 2 sticking between 31-30.5 k.
They are all 3-5 hrs away thats why i haven't been to any of these dealers yet...Should i make stick to 30.5 and make d/payment of make a trip to one dealer with some serious cash and try make them drop the price more...
The only problem is i am afraid to make such a trip only to be turned down ...
what do you think.
1. make d/payment on 30.5k
2. go to dealer and try to drop price more
3. fly out of town IL to NY to get one without options for $29.2k
let me know
Thanks for all the input
 

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i would do #2. go there and be ready to buy, but ask for 30. They won't deal as much if you're not there in person b/c they don't know if you're just wasting their time or not. it's rare that you'll be turned down. Possible but rare. After all, a good dealer WANTS your business. I actually threatened to go to another dealer and pay more just b/c i wanted a black STi, not blue, so they got me a lower interest rate and gave me the boost gauge "at cost" Just don't start yelling at them and calling them slimey and worst case scenario you'll just have to go for the 30.5 cost.
 

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Does your temperature control always stay on?

sometimes less respectible dealers will tell you anything over the phone just to get you in to their dealership.... once there they start adding in protective undercoatings, blinker fluid, etc to the "negotiated" price... especially if you've driven 3 to 5 hours to get there...

I suggest to you two things, negotiate with a sales MANAGER via fax until you get them to agree to a final price. have them write it up and fax it back to you. then drive there. be sure and deal only and directly with a sales manager, they aren't working for a commission. an internet sales manager is a good choice.

if you're ready to buy and they have the car you want on the lot and you don't jerk them around you will be able to buy it for close to invoice, including options. (a few hundred dollars close).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the input guys it really helped me in closing my deal.
I was able to put down a $1000 on blk and gld one with all the additional options, 20mls on it.
The deal was made with an internet sales manager at Jack Miller in (KC) at $30.4 flat
I will have to title tax and license it in my state (IL).
I will be picking it up in about a week.
Thanks again (I will alo have pics soon)
 
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