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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed my STANCE coilovers from www.stancesus.com last month and now I'm finally writing my review. When I was looking for coilovers, a couple of my friends with 240s had them and told me about them and how much better they were than their old coilovers (Tein HEs, Tein FLEXes, Silk Roads, HKS Hipermax IIs, Megan Racing). STANCE apparently has a growing reputation in the drift scene.

I was a bit hesitant with other coilovers because my car is my daily driver so I didn't want to have a kidney-busting ride. When I first went on their website, they didn't have anything for the 05+ STis, and for the WRX coilovers, they had a 6k/4k spring rate so I wasn't very interested. Then I checked again last month and they had something out for the 05+ STis with a 8k/6k spring rate. But, because they were new, I figured I'd be one of the first STi owners with the coilovers which was a bit of a risk on my part. However, they had everything I wanted: inverted monotube, 15-way damping adjustability, upper camber plates. A buddy of mine got me a good deal through STANCE because I'd basically become their "test mule".

When I opened the box, the first thing I noticed was the beefiness of the coilovers. Brackets were nice and thick and the shock body was huge! The shocks have a 52mm valving diameter which is HUGE even in comparison to DMS50s which has a 50mm valving and it's used to rally! The installation however had a few hiccups. While installing the fronts the paint on the mounting brackets was a little thick so it had to be pushed out a little with a pry bar to make it work.

The dampers were set at 7 and the car would get a bit floaty over big bumps and still bounce over the small ones and got me a bit nauseous (there's massive construction going on the main street I live off of). Then the next day I went over to NTB, I got an alignment done (I forget the exact height numbers, but the front are as low as you can go without hitting the CV boot and the rear is about a half inch lower, -2 camber front, -1.5 camber rear, 0 toe all around) and dialed down the dampers to 5 all the way around. With the dampers set at 5, I immediately noticed a difference the damping. The car was no longer twitchy over bumps and to my surprise, the car actually rode BETTER THAN STOCK! I figured I liked them at 5 for the street and anything lower would probably lead to the overdamped bobblehead effect the stock suspension has. Then came the fun part.

I noticed under hard cornering, 1: that body roll was greatly reduced 2: the front pushes much, much less 3: the rear rotates very well. I figure with some sway bars and endlinks it will only improve 1-3. So in short, I absolutely love my STANCEs and as of now, it's my single favorite mod and I want to go a hardcore suspension/braking route now rather than increasing power. And it's also great because I can adjust the damping and increase it for the occasional track days, then dial it down for the street and actually have a comfortable ride. Also, about the rear perches not clearing stock wheels, I met a guy the other day at Touge Factory buying some for his WRX, I'll try to see if he was able to make it work with his stock wheels.
 

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From what you are describing, it sounds like you have the ride height set way too low. If you were to raise them up to around 14"F, 13.5"R (center hub to fender edge) your ride quality and handling would improve dramatically. And you are definitely right about swaybars, they would be a great mod to complement the coilovers.

-Dan
 

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that was the hardest review to read.

please include some paragraph spacing.

also please measure your ride height from center of the wheel to the fender.

if you're "tucking" tire you are indeed too low, Unless you're running a ball joint extender and tie rod extender.
 

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GTWORX.com said:
And you are definitely right about swaybars, they would be a great mod to complement the coilovers.

-Dan
what would be an ideal swaybar configuration for someone with coilovers?

big front and a smaller say 22mm rear?
 

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A balanced swaybar setup will work well for all around duties (up to about 24-26mm in the rear anyway, you can go bigger in front), make sure you get adjustable units so you can tweak balance to your liking.

I want to see some pics of the Stance coilovers!
 

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drees said:
A balanced swaybar setup will work well for all around duties, make sure you get adjustable units so you can tweak balance to your liking.
hmm, rear sway bars are a bandaid to combat soft springs, with stiffer springs don't they become less neccessary?
 

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true I didn't state which springs i'd be running but isn't it assumed that coilovers increase the overall spring rates?

either way, your input is appreciated. :D
 

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hmm, rear sway bars are a bandaid to combat soft springs, with stiffer springs don't they become less neccessary?
I certainly wouldn't call swaybars a bandaid, more like a supplement. I have found that even with spring rates as high as 7k/5k, the 29mm front and 24mm rear bars work very well, and I'm STILL not breaking street tires loose too easily. Unless you are running insanely high spring rates, swaybars are one of the most important suspension mods you can do. I would go with at least 24mm front and rear, although you might like something a bit bigger up front.

-Dan
 

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Going OT:

I'll be running KW V3's (revised ones), with 26mm f/ and 20-24mm r/ whiteline bars.

I was thinking of doing the softest setting on the rear. (only time I really drive the car hard is Autox w/ 275/40 R-comps)

any opinion?

thanks for the pointers :D
 

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By the sound of your review they still have some bugs to work out. I dont think most people would be very satisfied with having to bend things and use spacers to make them fit properly. I know I wouldnt.
 

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Dos531 said:
By the sound of your review they still have some bugs to work out. I dont think most people would be very satisfied with having to bend things and use spacers to make them fit properly. I know I wouldnt.
Agreed, the spacers made me cringe. Until I hear another review that fixed everything, I would not even consider them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sorry guys, I added paragraph spaces. I measured and the ride height is set at 26"s all the way around from the ground to the fender. If the ride height was raised about two inches or so, the rear perches would clear, but I'm a ricer so I left it dropped x_X. The front bracket wouldn't slip on not because there wasn't enough clearance, the paint on the coilover was just a little too thick. Here is a pic of the STANCEs from their website.



Pics of the car





 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I plan on raising the ride height before winter or after I get new wheels (I'm thinking 18x9s), whichever comes first... at least until I get ball joint extenders ;X What size sway bars would you recommend for an 8k/6k spring rate? I'm trying to get the shock dyno graph, I was told I can safely up the spring rate to 11k/9k on the STANCEs.
 

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Can you remeasure from the center of the hub to fender lip? Ground to fender lip is pretty inaccurate.

They sure look beefy, and yes you sure have it low. :) Looks good!

BTW, I wouldn't tie the brake lines to the strut where you have done so, you can already see how the threads on the strut housing are starting to wear on the lines. At least cover the lines with some hose where they come into contact with the struts. Did the struts not include any way to secure the brake lines?
 

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EarlQHan said:
I plan on raising the ride height before winter or after I get new wheels (I'm thinking 18x9s), whichever comes first... at least until I get ball joint extenders ;X What size sway bars would you recommend for an 8k/6k spring rate? I'm trying to get the shock dyno graph, I was told I can safely up the spring rate to 11k/9k on the STANCEs.
what ball joint extenders are you looking at getting?

hopefully not the zerosports ones.

also you'll need to do some fender mods or raise it up to fit the 18x9s unless you're gonna run a 235 tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The fronts have brackets for the brake lines, the rears do not. Now that you mention it, I will get some sheet metal and fab something up to place between the thread and the brake line.
 

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BTW, I wouldn't tie the brake lines to the strut where you have done so, you can already see how the threads on the strut housing are starting to wear on the lines. At least cover the lines with some hose where they come into contact with the struts. Did the struts not include any way to secure the brake lines?
Good point, I didn't even notice that...your brake line needs to be mounted properly, zip-tieing it to the coilover body is bad news. I can't believe they didn't come with brackets in the rear, what were they thinking?
 
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