Sorry Mods maybe this should have gone in the newbie forum instead of here.
Stage 2 vs Dealer
Ok so I've been trolling around and searching through these forums but have not been able to find a conclusive answer to my burning question.
So I've learned that doing a downpipe requires a stage 2 tune at the minimum. With the cobb ap you can revert back to your stock tune (arguments whether it leaves the infamous 2MB aside). I've also learned that the down pipe does not run properly with the stock tune.
Soooo, I am going to get an AP regardless, I would like to do a stage 2, but, do those that have stage 2's replace the downpipe every time you have to go to the dealer?
So I've learned that doing a downpipe requires a stage 2 tune at the minimum. With the cobb ap you can revert back to your stock tune (arguments whether it leaves the infamous 2MB aside). I've also learned that the down pipe does not run properly with the stock tune.
Soooo, I am going to get an AP regardless, I would like to do a stage 2, but, do those that have stage 2's replace the downpipe every time you have to go to the dealer?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
If it was engine warranty issue maybe.
Yeah so basically if you are going to bring your car to be looked at by your dealer, unless they are very "mod friendly" *most are not* its probably a good idea to put your car back to stock, specifically in situations where you are having some malfunction and are looking for warrantee work lol. I mean many people argue that it takes away the mechanics insight on to what caused the problem, but if your cheap, and don't want to end up taking full responsibility for a cylinder failure.... You see where this is going
Ok but do they not take note if this if I go in for an oil change or misc recall or something?
Gotcha. Thanks. Comment a min ago was to the post before yours. I've been used to taking my Honda to the dealer for basically everything before this car. I live in a city apartment so doing oil changes and that kind of things is a little less desirable on the street or in the alley.Yeah so basically if you are going to bring your car to be looked at by your dealer, unless they are very "mod friendly" *most are not* its probably a good idea to put your car back to stock, specifically in situations where you are having some malfunction and are looking for warrantee work lol. I mean many people argue that it takes away the mechanics insight on to what caused the problem, but if your cheap, and don't want to end up taking full responsibility for a cylinder failure.... You see where this is going
When it comes down to it I think I've already made my mind up. I can borrow a buddies driveway once ever few months for regular maintenance and such.
They probably wont make note of it if they're doing an oil change. why bother? yeah it's a shiney piece of metal that's noticeable but i doubt the tech sittin' there's gonna go all Narc on you.
secondly, there are other things they'll look at if they want to deny you warranty. things like if there's any marks on the DP nuts and whatnot.
Best to either NOT do the DP, or do the DP and pony up if warranty gets denied. Changing in and out that DP every few months is a pain, especially to get it to look stock. stupid subaru upper/lower heatshields.
secondly, there are other things they'll look at if they want to deny you warranty. things like if there's any marks on the DP nuts and whatnot.
Best to either NOT do the DP, or do the DP and pony up if warranty gets denied. Changing in and out that DP every few months is a pain, especially to get it to look stock. stupid subaru upper/lower heatshields.
don't mod if your worried about warranty work. i'm stage 2 as well and my dealer is semi MOD friendly....
i've had to flash back to stock twice and they know i'm modded.
1st time: ECU update dealing w/ the thermostat. i explain to them that they CAN NOT drive my car / go into Boost at all because i'm protuned w/ a Cobb AP.
2nd time: TPMS reprogram....
I got the advice straight from Cobb to go ahead and uninstall the AP for any services / updates dealing the ECU because it has overwrite protection and may cause the dealer to waste time trying to diagnose something that is NOT a problem....
again, go big or stay home... pulling a down pipe on / off is just asking for trouble... i.e. strip a nut, break a bolt... it's also a huge PITA. even if I had a lift, i wouldn't. LOL.
i've had to flash back to stock twice and they know i'm modded.
1st time: ECU update dealing w/ the thermostat. i explain to them that they CAN NOT drive my car / go into Boost at all because i'm protuned w/ a Cobb AP.
2nd time: TPMS reprogram....
I got the advice straight from Cobb to go ahead and uninstall the AP for any services / updates dealing the ECU because it has overwrite protection and may cause the dealer to waste time trying to diagnose something that is NOT a problem....
again, go big or stay home... pulling a down pipe on / off is just asking for trouble... i.e. strip a nut, break a bolt... it's also a huge PITA. even if I had a lift, i wouldn't. LOL.
Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to start with just the AP see how that treats me and go from there. I imagine I will probably do the downpipe eventually.
I installed the DP myself. Lots of PB Blast and a breaker bar for sure. It felt like i was gonna snap a boltThanks for the advice. I think I am going to start with just the AP see how that treats me and go from there. I imagine I will probably do the downpipe eventually.
i kinda dinged up one of the bolts as well :/the DP will get u to spool a little earlier, and a protune + MBC gave me a nice responsive car. love it.
Wow that much of a PITA to do it yourself? Results sound amazing but your making me consider just taking it somewhere to do a DP and protune all at once.
I keep reading about fuel pumps and injectors as well. I've got a few leads on some local tuners that seem decent. I can see my plans to keep things simple are fading away quickly. Guess I kinda expected that!
its a PITA first time around, especially if you dont have the right tools. I think if you search around the most common issue folks have are seized bolts. For me it was getting those undone... and there's also like a bazillion nuts at hard to reach places for Subaru's janky heatshield.
But once you do it the first time, then it should be a lot quicker and easier the 2nd go around, especially if you CYA and put some antiseize stuff on the bolts.
My tuner recommended me a manual boost controller, fuel pump and fuel line mod. He said i didnt need injectors for my basic stage 2 with TBE. Going larger turbo or better gas or tossing anymore mods on that will up the IDC would require new injectors. I've been told even stock fuel pump was fine, but my tuner recommended it so i just went ahead with it.
you can definitely keep it simple:
buy Cobb AP, DP, MBC/EBCS, and anything else (intake/CBE/etc) and take em to the tuner to install and then protune. doneeeeeeeeeee.
But once you do it the first time, then it should be a lot quicker and easier the 2nd go around, especially if you CYA and put some antiseize stuff on the bolts.
My tuner recommended me a manual boost controller, fuel pump and fuel line mod. He said i didnt need injectors for my basic stage 2 with TBE. Going larger turbo or better gas or tossing anymore mods on that will up the IDC would require new injectors. I've been told even stock fuel pump was fine, but my tuner recommended it so i just went ahead with it.
you can definitely keep it simple:
buy Cobb AP, DP, MBC/EBCS, and anything else (intake/CBE/etc) and take em to the tuner to install and then protune. doneeeeeeeeeee.
this ^its a PITA first time around, especially if you dont have the right tools. I think if you search around the most common issue folks have are seized bolts. For me it was getting those undone... and there's also like a bazillion nuts at hard to reach places for Subaru's janky heatshield.
.
:lol:
i wrastled w/ mine for like 5 hours.... :lol: my 6 point sockets are 3/8" drive but you need a cheater / breaker bar to break those bolts off w/ a 3/8 drive ratchet.
i'm a heard headed dude so quitting was NOT an option. the heat shield... yes!
i did mine on ramps so you can imagine how cramped it was. but it was worth it. i took my time, took lots of breaks and made sure to go OCD and NOT break a bolt or strip something.. anti-seize is a must.
OP - stage 1 is a huge improvement... it gets rid of the "sputter" w/ the factory tune (3rd gear in a WOT)
stage 2 is even better! i'm happy w/ mine as is, i would like a little bit more power but i don't want to affect long term reliability.
Breaker bar is a MUST! I cheated. i luckily had a 2 foot steel pipe i used with my ratchet.this ^
:lol:
i wrastled w/ mine for like 5 hours.... :lol: my 6 point sockets are 3/8" drive but you need a cheater / breaker bar to break those bolts off w/ a 3/8 drive ratchet.
i'm a heard headed dude so quitting was NOT an option. the heat shield... yes!
i did mine on ramps so you can imagine how cramped it was. but it was worth it. i took my time, took lots of breaks and made sure to go OCD and NOT break a bolt or strip something.. anti-seize is a must.
OP - stage 1 is a huge improvement... it gets rid of the "sputter" w/ the factory tune (3rd gear in a WOT)
stage 2 is even better! i'm happy w/ mine as is, i would like a little bit more power but i don't want to affect long term reliability.
Wow. Thanks for the info. Honestly I was thinking I'd just take my ratchet set to it.
Adron, if it were me I'd just get a stage 1 protune. Do the fuel line stumble mod first and you should be set to go. Get a catback if you need more noise.
Uninstall AP before any dealer work. You might get lucky and they never know you flashed your car.
Uninstall AP before any dealer work. You might get lucky and they never know you flashed your car.
The dealer thing is honestly extremely variable and as time goes by dealers are less and less mod friendly.Soooo, I am going to get an AP regardless, I would like to do a stage 2, but, do those that have stage 2's replace the downpipe every time you have to go to the dealer?
If you want to mod, you should get a tuner because a good tuner will not only give you good, professional tunes, but they will be able to assist you in doing various things in your power and handling goals. Actually a reputable tuner is probably the most important mod related decision you will ever make because it can mean the difference between a happy mod experience and a not happy mod experience with stuff that you DIY and break.
Also beware OTS tunes. Stage 1 can definitely knock and cause problems. Stage 2 all the more so.
A lot of people think stage 2 is a lot of power, but the stock downpipe is big enough that adding a downpipe will not net you a whole lot of extra power, especially if you stage 1 protune. You get a little sooner turbo spool and a nicer powerband.
But for what it's worth, a protune is cheaper than an AP, gives you more, better power and is safer to boot.
Find a tuner, you'll be glad you did.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
IW STi Forum
A forum community dedicated to Subaru Impreza and STI owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine builds, exhaust, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
