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SOLD my 2011 Built Sti, wanted to share my story for those considering heavy modding.

8881 Views 43 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  wwrx
:D Had to start with the smiley face because I have ZERO regrets about driving a 420awhp as a daily driver for a couple years. I just wanted to share my path and help others make better decisions than I did to help save you some money, stress, and be on your way to more :D without :(. Purchased my 2011 black Subaru Sti hatch in December of 2010. For starters I'm 38 with three kids and I just wanted a fun car that could "do it all." The Subaru quickly proved it could replace my Toyota 4runner for all the bikes I haul around, alternate car for hauling our family, occasional track days (owning the sti made me get into the track, which I was not prior to owning), and driving in all conditions around the country. I had never modified a car in my life outside of putting some cool decals on my 1993 Acura Integra GR, ha. I'd been around a lot of gearhead stuff growing up as a motorcycle racer, etc. so the idea of having a "midlife crisis" toy was perfect and fun. I got consumed with reading thread after thread on the forums and started to learn who the big names were as far as vendors go so I started calling around to upgrade my Sti beyond the Cobb Stage 1 I was using. I drove to Cobb Plano Texas (800+ miles one way) for a 20gxt turbo swap and supporting mods for e85, since e85 is readily available around Louisville KY. Cobb did a great job installing the parts and the car felt very fast at 375/375 e85 awhp. I was able to switch the car back to 93 easily with the Cobb AP etc., MISTAKE #1: NO BUILT ENGINE but what I wasn't ready for was my ringland failure just 59 days after leaving Cobb. The stock block as most of us know is just not reliable in these modified GR cars with above 370 awhp. I'd highly suggest going built engine if you plan on doing anything above 350awp (mustang dyno) on these cars. Yes, there are success stories out there of guys stock blocks performing miracles, but the conservative trend would be to just spend the extra money and do it right the first time. I had Topspeed SS1 block put in my car, EL headers, AOS, and many other cooling modifications done to the car. I did just about everything but remove the AC from my car to help this car run cool and delivering fuel properly, be reliable, etc.
MISTAKE #2: Going through 4 fuel pumps...... the e85 I was using ate up 2 walbro's and 2 Aeromotives before I ended up with the modified Fuel Pump Assembly using a Walbro 485 (true e85 pump). I ran e85 4 tanks out of 5 in the summer and I ran 93 through the winter. I used 0w/50 eneos oil OR motul 5w40 8100 excess oil and did 1500 mile oil changes religiously for 2 years. Yes that was expensive but the right way to do this according to Topspeed, who was my right hand through owning this car. Great team of people there. Despite I was still going through fuel pumps every 4-5 months and was stranded on the highway once on a road trip. Not fun.
MISTAKE #3: using this car at the TRACK. Why? Well, even with all of my cooling modifications, etc. this car would get to a very scary Coolant Temp of 240+ after 15 minutes on the track and I'd just have to get off. So, every session I'd have to worry about the engine failing again. ( I was even running a low boost map on the track). If you get into track racing just get a less expensive track car like a Miata that can go all day. Eventually you'll migrate up to an S2000, Corvette, maybe even an EVO (oh no I said EVO on this forum- haha. Evo's just have a better track record for reliability as far as boosted track cars go). I wish my Subaru would have been a reliable track car with all the money I spent on it, but it just wasn't. It sure was quick though!


My car eventually started to run RICH and I had compression test done, full vacuum test, and comprehensive look at the tunes, Wideband gauge sensors replaced, etc. Nothing could explain the RICH condition. The funniest part is that the car felt much better running RICH than it did running at 14.7 cruising etc. The Once "little blip at 2900 rpms" was gone when the car was running rich. The Walbro 485 is way overkill but it ran perfect A/F ratios for 6 months prior to the car starting to run rich. The car just ran RICH out of the blue, no single incident pointed to it starting to run Rich. The car checked out 100% fine and my local shop, Topspeed, etc. just told me not to worry about it and it's fine. The car never even threw a code and felt great so I just moved on.

So, why did I sell the car? I was not even selling it? A guy drove my car and made an offer and I thought to myself hmmmmm this car has 53000 miles on it and it's heavily modified (over $20k in mods) so I saw it as a "get out of jail offer." I decided to sell the car now and get a track car and a quieter DD since I drive a lot and am on the phone a lot doing business in the car. It just made sense to sell it now. So, if you start to modify your car lay out a budget first and do it right the first time around. I thought I was doing it right, but I made too many trips adding parts to the car when I should have just done it all in 1 or 2 trips instead of (1 to CObb and 3 to Topspeed). I spent a lot extra in labor than I should have. I did all the easy stuff myself...exhaust, gauges, wrapping headers/DP, etc. Go built engine if you crave power or have the power bug, without a built engine you will always want more and it will come at the cost of spending more later. My Topspeed SS1 proved reliable. Well, until I got a call yesterday that the new owner has thrown a check engine code?? I can't control someone else driving the car. Potentially not letting the car warm up properly? Found out it's VERY IMPORTANT to let your car warm up until you rip her! Hopefully it's just a random "at idle" code that is nothing. See, I don't even own the car anymore and I'm still worrying about it. ha!

Everyone out there enjoy your STi's, they are very functional, fun, fast cars. I'll always be in an AWD or 4 wheel drive car or SUV! If you have any questions or have any input fire away! It was good being part of this community too, lots of good peeps here! Enjoy the cool weather this fall as those turbos will be spoolin up grins nicely! ;)
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thanks for sharing! so what are your two cars going to be to replace the STi?
E85 is definitely good for power but at the cost of eating through certain fuel pumps and also high cylinder pressures which compounds the stress of a big turbo on a stock motor. How did your datalogs look with the big turbo before you blew the stock motor?
E85 is definitely good for power but at the cost of eating through certain fuel pumps and also high cylinder pressures which compounds the stress of a big turbo on a stock motor. How did your datalogs look with the big turbo before you blew the stock motor?
My logs were clean for the first 40 days after the turbo swap, then from about day 41 to 59 the car started to idle quite rough ( at cold start rev up to 2600 then back down, for about 2 minutes on/ off until it settle down to idle). Once the car threw a code my logs represented an actual real misfire and Cobb confirmed it to be bad. Compression and leakdown confirmed #4 was done and #2 not so great either. My ringlands on #4 were destroyed. I had the car shipped off immediately after this occurred since the code would not clear for a 25 minute drive. Once the engine was built I had great logs, zero knock, and never threw a code.
thanks for sharing! so what are your two cars going to be to replace the STi?
I got an Audi S4 white with black optics package 6sp. manual for the DD and a low mileage '99 Mazda Miata with roll bar, seat etc. Track prepped. It's a blast on the track. Hilarious to drive Miata on the street because it feels like molasses, because it is! 9.5 inch wide tires on a Miata looks aggressive since it's almost the full width of the car! I think my wife likes the Miata a lot more than our mini van so it went from track car to grocery getter pretty quickly . Not sure how that happened! :eek: Both fun cars to drive in completely different ways.

The Suby was wicked quick and I miss that kick in the pants. I'll be back in an STI type car at some point!
These cars simply aren't built for serious tracking. The engine isn't stout enough and it takes money just to get these cars to handle as well as say a stock EVO. These cars shine in the role of daily drivers and occasional track use and there's no shame in that.
These cars simply aren't built for serious tracking. The engine isn't stout enough and it takes money just to get these cars to handle as well as say a stock EVO. These cars shine in the role of daily drivers and occasional track use and there's no shame in that.
No doubt. I wish I had kept it stage 1 with sway bars and the nice wheels and called it a day.
It would have been a perfect DD. I just went too nuts! Like I said though No Regrets for the smiles!!
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No doubt. I wish I had kept it stage 1 with sway bars and the nice wheels and called it a day.
It would have been a perfect DD. I just went too nuts! Like I said though No Regrets for the smiles!!
Great post and thank you for sharing. ...These cars rock at stage one. I am also a mid age STi owner currently at Stage 1 all stock. Purchased my WRB STi Limited from a doctor in Richmond Virginia last April of 2013 and have considered going stage 2 but after reading your post and weighing the pros and cons I will call it a day and just enjoy it as a dd stage 1.
These cars simply aren't built for serious tracking.
Almost non of the cars from factory (like 99.5% including EVO) are built for serious tracking except Z06, GT3 and etc. but they have their share of faults too.

I see fast STI track drivers going with _stock_ engine powers and they are fast, scary fast.

Most people don't realize that once they go beyond factory engine specs they need to properly re-design the whole engine bay to make their STIs track safe. I think most of modded STI are not good for track use. That's one of the reasons I don't want to go with bigger turbo.

If I'd get a new STI I probably will just do a safe _protuned_ Stage1 with stock(ish) boost levels (15-16psi) and invest the rest into suspension for DD/occasional track use (i.e. once a month).

I recently had to go through a partial rebuild of my built motor (there was no mechanical failure!) because E85 left a huge amount of deposits in both heads... I was running E85 100% of time (street and track/AutoX). Not doing that anymore.
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Almost non of the cars from factory (like 99.5% including EVO) are built for serious tracking except Z06, GT3 and etc. but they have their share of faults too.
Well yes but there are a cars with stouter engines that handle better stock. EVO doesn't make as good of a DD because the suspension is firmer but the advantage of that shows up on the track and the 4B11 at least has 4-bolt main and Mahle forged pistons. Of course some other parts may break but out of the box it's a better car for the track.
Agree 110% with your post. I have seen plenty stock Sti's doing great at the track with only some handling upgrades (sways, tires mostly). I realize the sti isn't a track car or made to be like just about every factory car, as far as real track cars go. Heck, I even saw a GT3 blow a motor my last trip out. Track driving is what it is and combustion is what it is, anything can happen. Enjoy your ride!:tup:








Almost non of the cars from factory (like 99.5% including EVO) are built for serious tracking except Z06, GT3 and etc. but they have their share of faults too.

I see fast STI track drivers going with _stock_ engine powers and they are fast, scary fast.

Most people don't realize that once they go beyond factory engine specs they need to properly re-design the whole engine bay to make their STIs track safe. I think most of modded STI are not good for track use. That's one of the reasons I don't want to go with bigger turbo.

If I'd get a new STI I probably will just do a safe _protuned_ Stage1 with stock(ish) boost levels (15-16psi) and invest the rest into suspension for DD/occasional track use (i.e. once a month).

I recently had to go through a partial rebuild of my built motor (there was no mechanical failure!) because E85 left a huge amount of deposits in both heads... I was running E85 100% of time (street and track/AutoX). Not doing that anymore.
Great post and thank you for sharing. ...These cars rock at stage one. I am also a mid age STi owner currently at Stage 1 all stock. Purchased my WRB STi Limited from a doctor in Richmond Virginia last April of 2013 and have considered going stage 2 but after reading your post and weighing the pros and cons I will call it a day and just enjoy it as a dd stage 1.
Glad I could share! Power-wise stage 2 gets you less gain than Stage 1 did. Stage 1 was awesome, i'll never forget after I flashed to stage 1, that feeling was night and day. It was like the car wanted to lift off the ground! These are awesome cars. I'd keep your ability to flash back to stock (even though the counter will show the ECU has been altered- about zero to none you will have any issues with dealership). You'll own your car potentially a lot longer than i did! :D I just had to get out when the offer was right. Enjoy !
Considering going stage 2, but I dont want to lose the stock reliability. Even if I added new fuel system dp,headers,intake, and all that, then I would worry about the internals! And im not crazy about running an AP at this time because im not quite sure how to use it.
How might have you dealt with cooling issues on the track?
Considering going stage 2, but I dont want to lose the stock reliability. Even if I added new fuel system dp,headers,intake, and all that, then I would worry about the internals! And im not crazy about running an AP at this time because im not quite sure how to use it.

Shouldn't worry about using an AP, really it couldn't be easier. Our cars have enough engine issues that logging even in stock form makes sense and absolutely makes sense once out of warranty. I recently caught a bad MAF logging (05 GD) that's was causing A/F problems that I might not have noticed in time otherwise.
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Re: Re: SOLD my 2011 Built Sti, wanted to share my story for those considering heavy

I see fast STI track drivers going with _stock_ engine powers and they are fast, scary fast.
I compete in the stock class for time attack and I agree with this. It's funny, but many times stock class STI's run a faster lap time than modded ones. My hypothesis is that stock class drivers focus more on technique to go fast while modded drivers rely more on mods. That's just a general observation and not the universal truth. In any case, my STI has proven to be reliable with lots of tracking i can't complain.

OP: thanks for sharing I enjoyed your post.

sent from my Galaxy S3
How might have you dealt with cooling issues on the track?
I did Koyo Radiator, eL headers coated and wrapped, larger TMIC fully heat taped ( didn't want to lose front crash bar installing FMIC), wrapped DP, isolated my Cold Air Intake to near ambient temps, turbo blanket, e85 and low boost map
She just ran hot with all that power.
Re: SOLD my 2011 Built Sti, wanted to share my story for those considering heavy

I compete in the stock class for time attack and I agree with this. It's funny, but many times stock class STI's run a faster lap time than modded ones. My hypothesis is that stock class drivers focus more on technique to go fast while modded drivers rely more on mods. That's just a general observation and not the universal truth. In any case, my STI has proven to be reliable with lots of tracking i can't complain.

OP: thanks for sharing I enjoyed your post.

sent from my Galaxy S3
Thanks. Yep, more focusing on the driving is more fun anyway. Especially when the car still runs! Ha!
Agree 110% with your post
Thank you for sharing, threelete!

I wish I could keep my car closer to stock and really focus more on my driving skills. But when the mod bug hits... it hits :) I actually was quite happy even with 100% stock car but then I read all the horror stories about stock tune and got an AP just to make it safer, not more powerful. And then here it goes... :)

Unfortunately I'm not the first one and not the last one. We will see more stories here that will be pretty much all the same: 1. Want more reliable power. 2. Putting all these modds on (I've read here on forum that they are all great and safe). 3. My motor goes boom. 4. Damn Subaru with unreliable motors. :)

Not defending weak EJ257 pistons and stock tune but there is another side of this story (as always...). My motor was actually just fine after OTS Cobb Stage1 tune. Problems started when I went with Protuned Stage2. Maybe the tune was a bit more agressive than it should... Or maybe my driving style. Could be a combo of both. But it happened. On a positive side - I've got some experience and got it with a car that's reletivly cheap to fix... What if I had a Porsche and decided to play with a motor? Would I do it again if I get another new STI? I just don't know. :)

BTW, what cars combo you ended up with?

Again, thanks for sharing!
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Re: SOLD my 2011 Built Sti, wanted to share my story for those considering heavy

I compete in the stock class for time attack and I agree with this. It's funny, but many times stock class STI's run a faster lap time than modded ones. My hypothesis is that stock class drivers focus more on technique to go fast while modded drivers rely more on mods. That's just a general observation and not the universal truth. In any case, my STI has proven to be reliable with lots of tracking i can't complain.

OP: thanks for sharing I enjoyed your post.

sent from my Galaxy S3
I just had my first Autocross a week ago since the car went through a partial rebuilt this summer. I was running 91oct first time since my motor got built last year (was running 100% of time on E85). It could be all mental but I think that my car was more balanced to my suspension setup running 91oct. It was a bit easier to drive at the limit. E85 produced to much low-mid torque for my suspension/tires.

My current setup is EL Headers, CAI, stock TMIC, stock VF48 turbo, ID1000 injectors, Cobb catted DP and stock CBE, Oil cooler with thermostat, catch can, Koyo radiator. DEFI gauges.

on E85 car was making 430ft-lb of torque on Mustang calibrated dyno. With 91oct it's "just" 320-330 ft-lb, which is still a lot!

Suspension: GTWorx Bilsteins, RCE Black springs, WL swaybars, bushing inserts, WL fixed camber offset plates and etc...

And with all these goodies I must say that there is a SCCA guy running stock STI (well, he has a front sway bar) that runs almost as quick or maybe even quicker... :)
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