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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

def take a sit with a Hans to confirm the holes aren't too low for your shoulders. If you can't use a harness the seat is no good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,302 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

Ill probably have to head out to Racer Parts Wholesale and test it all out there to make it easy. I was leanign towards Sabelt or OMP anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,303 · (Edited)
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

06/23/12 - Build 2 Day 37

I got a few things done yesterday on the car. First up was the GS MC brace. This is a pretty simple installation especially with nothing in the engine bay. It took a total of maybe 10 minutes.

Here is the brace:





Here it is installed:





After that I worked on the ventilation system. The system pulls air from the hole in the cowl where the stock system pulls from. I retained the front outer vents and the defrost vents. The inner vent spots are being used for other things. The goal here was to get some outside air into the car and also have some air flow over the windshield to help prevent fogging.

Here are the components used:



First I worked on the inlet duct, I had to trim the duct to fit the hole, then some mesh was put over the duct and a filter added to keep dust and other crap out:













Once that was done I worked on the duct that attaches under the dash. This was difficult because there is noting really to bolt to and I wanted a good seal so I wasn't just blowing air under the dash but actually into the vents. Here is a pic of what I was attaching the duct to:



The first thing to do was to modify the duct by heating and reshaping it to better match the shape of the ducts in the dash:





Since the duct shape was not perfect and there were parts that would have let air just flow into the dash area and not into he vents, I had to make an aluminum plate that matched the shape of the ducts. The plate was sealed to the ducts with foam and then the duct was sealed to the plate. By doing this I could prevent air from just blowing into the cavity under the dash. The whole assembly was bolted to the defrost duct where there is actually material to bolt to. The outer ducts were sealed with some silicone. Don't mind the duct tape, it was there holding things until the silicone sealant dried.



For those questioning how well this works, here is a little video of the drivers side duct with the blower on. I would compare it to about 3/4 of full on the stock HVAC unit, I was impressed with the flow. I have no doubt it will do exactly what I intended it to do.


The last step in this will be to wire up the blower and get the hose in but that will happen when the dash is back in hopefully this week sometime.

Here are some pics of the fuel line routing that I said I would take. The only change I am making to this is that I am going to switch the bulkheads at the firewall to the AC block off on the passenger side, currently they are in the heater core block off. This will give me a bit better clearance for the ventilation duct. Don't mind the mess in the car lol.















The AC block off where these will end up is in the right of that last picture above the black wire loom.

Today, I have been working on the wiring diagram. The amount of wiring that I am adding has grown since I started so that box for the relays and breakers I posted a few updates ago is going to change a bit. I need to run a relay for the A-1000 which will be switched off of the stock pump controller. The in tank pump will use the stock wiring since its job is pretty simple and 65C should flow plenty without molesting the wiring at this time. Wiring it this way will allow the A-1000 to prime the same way the the stock pump does stock. I also need to run a relay for the ventilation blower, this will be switched manually. I need another relay for a different pump which will also be manually switched and then an override switch for the rad fans so that I can use them when I need them for cooling some things other than the radiator specifically. So in total there will be 4 dash switches and I needed to draw it up and order a bit more wiring to do it. Once I actually do the wiring I will post the diagram to help anyone who is interesting in doing any of these changes.

On that same note, if anyone here has already rewired a fuel pump off of the stock controller (08+) and could confirm the wires that were tapped for the relay switch that would be helpful. I am 99% sure I have the right ones but I can not test them with the current state of the car, it just goes to test mode. So if anyone could confirm what I think with the color of the wires you used or a simple picture that would be awesome!

In other news, Nameless has their test car so they are starting work this week on my parts. I have been working on some calculations today to throw their way for one of the designs so hopefully I will be able to post more information and pictures on those things sooner than later.

The engine build will happen when there is time at TiC to do so, we have everything to get it together but no time.

Ill post more this week when I have time to get more work in.
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

"On that same note, if anyone here has already rewired a fuel pump off of the stock controller (08+) and could confirm the wires that were tapped for the relay switch that would be helpful. I am 99% sure I have the right ones but I can not test them with the current state of the car, it just goes to test mode. So if anyone could confirm what I think with the color of the wires you used or a simple picture that would be awesome!"


im still trying to do this for you.... sorry been buried at work.... you should have a plan B in case i cant get there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,305 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

no problem, my plan B is to wire it how I believe it should be based on the wiring diagram in the manual and if it doesn't work how i want it to I will redo it when I can actually test the voltages.
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

Nice progress!
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway





Pat ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Bill Nye actually holds a degree in Mechanical Engineering. Just like Pat ;)
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

Smitty...solid master brace install write up...It's so easy.

Step 1: remove engine and all other crap
Step 2: install mc brace
Step 3: Smitty post on all mc brace threads about how easy it was...laughing at those who install it with an engine still in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,311 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

ya IDK why people complain about it being hard to fit in there or it being hard to get to the bolts, I think GS needs to revise their directions. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,313 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

07/05/12 - Engine Build Update

With the day off work today we decide it was a good time to get the engine assembly started since all of the problems have been worked out and all components were here.

As part of my sponsorship with TiC we are building the engine at the shop. As always the guys there have been extremely helpful to me in sharing their experiences building these engines and actually letting me lend a hand with the build. Obviously they have been around the block a few times with these and getting tips on what clearances and setups have worked on their race car as well as customer's cars is invaluable to me on this build and future builds down the road. It is a great learning experience for someone assembling their first Subaru engine.

So the goal today was to get the short block assembled. We already knew that the new block was within spec as I posted a while ago. Shout out to Paul's Automotive Engineering in Cincinnati for getting the hone right this time unlike Benson Racing. We had already set the ring gaps a few weeks ago when we measured the bores and checked the PTW clearances. All that was left to do was sort out the bearing clearances and get it assembled.

If you have been following you know that I have gone with a stock STI crank, Manley TT Rods, Manley 9.8:1 CR pistons, ACL bearings, a stock oil pump, ARP case bolts and the entire Killer B setup for the oil system. Modifications to the block include the sleeves, AN Fittings for the breather system and some mild porting of the oil passages.

There isn't much else to say here so I will just step through the pictures. I wont get too in depth here so feel free to ask any questions about the process.

Obviously the first step was to get the main bearings in and check the clearances there. Here are the ACL bearings in the case halves:



Once they were in, the crank journals are measured and then the bearings are measured. As with any good build you should get a build sheet like the one shown here. The sheet will show you all of the measurements taken during the assembly process.



Once the bearing clearances were checked and within the spec we wanted, we could move on. Typically we would have put the TQ plate on and measured the PTW clearances and set the ring gaps. That was already done a few weeks ago but here is a couple pics of the ring gaping.





With that done and everything within spec the case could be split so that final assembly could happen when the time came. One thing to note here for anyone thinking about doing this for the first time, be sure to keep everything in order and labeled. Label the piston so that it goes back in the same bore and label the ring packs that go with each piston and be sure to fill out the build sheet so that you have something to look back on down the road. Once we split the case we made sure to clean everything very well. Even if your machinist says they hot tank the block you MUST clean it. Every oil passage needs to be cleaned, you would be surprised what comes out. Also important is to clean the cutting fluid out of the bores. In this case the sleeves like to flash rust so this is why we waited to clean it until right before final assembly and made sure to oil down the cylinder immediately after cleaning it. IF your rag comes out of the bore clean then your know you are done.

The next step was to check the rod bearing clearances. This is a similar process as the main bearings. Measure the journal on the crank then measure the bearing in the rod. Again, label everything so that you know where it goes and you know your clearances are as measured and fill out the build sheet. Once the clearances are within spec they can be assembled on the crank.





With everything clean and the crank and rods assembled, the assembly can be dropped into the case. Be sure to place all your gaskets and your RTV. Once those are in place the second half of the case and be put on and the case bolts torqued.





With the case bolts torqued it is time to instal the pistons. Obviously with the design of the engine the wrist pins must be slid in through the side of the case with the case fully assembled. First one of the wrist pin clips is put on the piston. A ring compressor is used and the piston is installed into the bore. The wrist pin hole in the piston must then be aligned with the hole in the rod as well as the hole in the case. The pin then slides in and the second clip is installed. the process it repeated for all of the pistons.







With that completed, the oil galley and wrist pin plugs can be put in. Make sure that thread sealant is used on these. The rear main seal is also installed. With all that complete the oil pump can go on. Be sure to use some lock tite on these and RTV on the mating surface then torque the pump down.





With that done we moved onto the Killer B stuff. The baffle used two of the stock baffle bolts and then two that are supplied with the kit. Since I am using the Killer B oil pan, the spacers are used on the pickup tube. The tube installation is very straight forward and all hardware is supplied. The last step is to install the pan using the supplied bolts and RTV on the mating surface.











With that done it was wrapped up to stay clean and await the heads. That's about it for a quick and dirty short block assembly procedure. I am more than happy to talk about any details people want to know, just ask.

Hopefully we can get to the heads soon and get this engine finished and ready to go in the car.
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

lookin good!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,315 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

lookin good!!
Getting there. The car should be ready to have it dropped in by this weekend. Then all I will need is the parts from nameless and to finish the heads. I also have not heard from the AEM guy reciently which isnt a good sign but I dont think I will necessarily wait on that or let that hold me up. I can stick with the AP if I need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,316 · (Edited)

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

I'm in already!! #2 on the list "and FL" :lol:
 

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Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

i counted at least 40 claimed by the shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,320 ·
Re: Smitty's 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Track Build Underway

i counted at least 40 claimed by the shops.
People need to spread the word so that I can have a Dyno 10 minutes away :devil:
 
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