[Valenz]

So as some of you know my car is experiencing rod knock and I will have to replace the short block. I was trying to do as much research as I could and got a couple of quotes.

The best one I received was for a IAG stage 2.5 closed deck.
Labor: 3,807.50
Parts: 6,276.08
Tax: 869.70
Total: 10,953.28

Labor is 140.00 a hour & this will also include 2 oil changes all fluids and a new Flex tune.
Oil cool,timing belt, water pump being replaced etc.

Does this price look average to some of you that have priced this type of work before?
I was quoted 9600.00 for just a IAG stage 2 with installation.

Also, I will be covered by a 2 year or 25k miles warranty because they are a certified installer for IAG.

 

[raisingAnarchy]

Looks like a pretty great price to me, unless you're not giving enough details. Are they reusing the turbo? What about clutch work? Oil pump?

I'd also find out what they plan to do about the heads. Will they be cleaned out and will they ensure the mating surfaces of the old, used heads will match the brand new shortblock?

That's a good warranty too since IAG themselves only off 1 yr/12k miles on shortblocks that are professionally installed. Also, this price is nearly identical to a shortblock replacement at the dealer, so I'd say you're coming out way ahead.

Also, you must have big plans if you're going with an IAG stage 2.5 :tup:

 

[Valenz]

Looks like a pretty great price to me, unless you're not giving enough details. Are they reusing the turbo? What about clutch work? Oil pump?

I'd also find out what they plan to do about the heads. Will they be cleaned out and will they ensure the mating surfaces of the old, used heads will match the brand new shortblock?

That's a good warranty too since IAG themselves only off 1 yr/12k miles on shortblocks that are professionally installed. Also, this price is nearly identical to a shortblock replacement at the dealer, so I'd say you're coming out way ahead.

Also, you must have big plans if you're going with an IAG stage 2.5 :tup:

Thanks, I figured if I am already spending 10k might as well get the 2.5 over the 2 to give me some room for a build next year.

The quote included Clean, Deck, Pressure test heads.

Also new oil cooler, pump pan strainer. Complete gasket kit with Je pro seal headgasket and Wrist pin / Cover Seals.

I also went out to EFI for a quote but think it's going to be a little far to have the car towed.

Sorry, no clutch or turbo work included in that quote.

 

[raisingAnarchy]

Thanks, I figured if I am already spending 10k might as well get the 2.5 over the 2 to give me some room for a build next year.

The quote included Clean, Deck, Pressure test heads.

Also new oil cooler, pump pan strainer. Complete gasket kit with Je pro seal headgasket and Wrist pin / Cover Seals.

I also went out to EFI for a quote but think it's going to be a little far to have the car towed.

Sorry, no clutch or turbo work included in that quote.

Well hopefully they at least inspect/clean the turbo. The turbo bearings share the engine sump oil so there could be fragments from your bearing failure that made its way into the turbo. Same reason to replace the oil cooler and oil pump.

 

[VA STI]

Well hopefully they at least inspect/clean the turbo. The turbo bearings share the engine sump oil so there could be fragments from your bearing failure that made its way into the turbo. Same reason to replace the oil cooler and oil pump.

There's no way to clean the oil cooler so if they are re-using it OP should be asking questions. I wouldn't risk the turbo either. You can rebuild an oil pump though.

 

[Leemanfor]

yeah OP you need them to replace

short block
oil pump
oil cooler
oil pickup
AVCS solenoids and gears
oil pan
turbo
all AVCS lines
oil feed

basically anywhere the oil has touched, it needs to be cleaned or replaced.

do not let them try to clean the oil cooler. any shop that does that, and charges 10 grand for this, id steer clear

 

[VA STI]

Does the IAG block come with a different oil pick up? I'd recommend going with a Killer B one if it doesn't. Oil pans can be cleaned but new ones are like $60 so you might be better just buying one. AVCS can be cleaned but it is a bitch and some people eat the $600 to replace them. They cannot re-used without being cleaned. Oil lines are easy to clean and relatively short on these cars.

OP all these things need to be done or else your new engine has the chance of getting rod knock again.

 

[Valenz]

Does the IAG block come with a different oil pick up? I'd recommend going with a Killer B one if it doesn't. Oil pans can be cleaned but new ones are like $60 so you might be better just buying one. AVCS can be cleaned but it is a bitch and some people eat the $600 to replace them. They cannot re-used without being cleaned. Oil lines are easy to clean and relatively short on these cars.

OP all these things need to be done or else your new engine has the chance of getting rod knock again.

Yes, it comes with a IAG oil pickup. Just going to throw on a 20g and header and go with a stage 2 block on Flex. I accepted the quote 10k

 

[Valenz]

Well shes on her way :tup:

They received the car engine is ordered and it will be about 2-3 weeks.

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[mheyman]

Yes, it comes with a IAG oil pickup. Just going to throw on a 20g and header and go with a stage 2 block on Flex. I accepted the quote 10k

you have a pump and injectors?

$140/hr for labor is a bit high. But it's more important to use a shop that can and will do the work properly - and great about the warranty.

Best of luck . . . .

 

[Valenz]

you have a pump and injectors?

$140/hr for labor is a bit high. But it's more important to use a shop that can and will do the work properly - and great about the warranty.

Best of luck . . . .

Thanks and yes, running a AEM Pump and Cobb 1050 injectors with Delicious tuning flex fuel kit. I am very happy about the warranty, it seems IAG only put it into effect last month. But I must follow the break in oil changes.

*Permissible Break-In Oils: Motul Break-In Oil (Preferred), Royal Purple Break-In, Brad Penn Break-In.
• Run Conventional 5w30 fluid and OEM or Purolator Pureone filter for first 50 miles, as outlined above.
• Change oil to break-in oil at 50 miles (as highlighted above), and replace oil filter and crush washer.*
• Change oil with break-in oil at 500 miles on your new engine, and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• Change oil with break-in oil at 1500 miles and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• Finally, change oil at 3000 to Motul 5w40 Synthetic and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• From this point forward, use Motul 5w40 Synthetic and change oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles.
• Make a habit of always checking your fluids every few hundred miles. Built engines can consume oil, though
most IAG street-clearance engines should use less than 1 quart of oil per 3000 mile oil change after break-in. If
your oil consumption deviates, please let us know.

 

[FlashCompany]

$140/hr is disrespectfully high.

I paid half of that but I got a deal, you shouldn’t be paying a penny over $100/hr for quality experienced labor. (And I wouldn’t even pay that much)

 

[Xtremsiege2]

$140/hr is disrespectfully high.

I paid half of that but I got a deal, you shouldn’t be paying a penny over $100/hr for quality experienced labor. (And I wouldn’t even pay that much)

Its not Florida its Long Island where everything is expensive. $140 is pretty damn high, thats dealership pricing but you get what you pay for around here.

 

[mheyman]

I don't know of a great shop under $100.
As another reference point IAG still says $110/r on their web site.
Ill add if i get a chance.

Basic Labor Rates:
$
EFI Logics (CT) 125
IAG (MD) 110

 

[uschearak]

I don't know of a great shop under $100.
As another reference point IAG still says $110/r on their web site.
Ill add if i get a chance.

Our shop rate is $95/hour but we're in Texas.

 

[Valenz]

So I stopped by the shop today to drop off something and was asked if I'd like to do the clutch. The recommended the ACT Extreme street and flywheel, I figured I might as well while the car is still apart, I'll save on labor costs and my current stock clutch has 40 miles on it. I figure I can have them increase the TQ after break in.

I'm looking at a total now of 11.6k when all is said and done. Just a heads up to anyone else in this situation and looking for a guesstimate. I plan on keeping the car now and I will look for a daily and keep this one for weekend/ summer trips and future track use. It's very expensive to own and modify a Subaru. I am at around 17k with the engine and modifications/tunes so far. I bought the car for 30k.

According to the shop the car could be ready as early as tomorrow afternoon or Monday.

Edit: I just wanted to say that the shop I went with was thousands cheaper then the 3 other quotes I received.

 

[raisingAnarchy]

So I stopped by the shop today to drop off something and was asked if I'd like to do the clutch. The recommended the ACT Extreme street and flywheel, I figured I might as well while the car is still apart, I'll save on labor costs and my current stock clutch has 40 miles on it. I figure I can have them increase the TQ after break in.

I'm looking at a total now of 11.6k when all is said and done. Just a heads up to anyone else in this situation and looking for a guesstimate. I plan on keeping the car now and I will look for a daily and keep this one for weekend/ summer trips and future track use. It's very expensive to own and modify a Subaru. I am at around 17k with the engine and modifications/tunes so far. I bought the car for 30k.

According to the shop the car could be ready as early as tomorrow afternoon or Monday.

Edit: I just wanted to say that the shop I went with was thousands cheaper then the 3 other quotes I received.

Is it actually cheaper to mod other cars to the same extent as what you've done with the Subaru?

 

[Leemanfor]

Thank you for reminding me why I do all my own work

If I had to pay someone to do mods, I would never do them.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Damn, I don't have that much into modding my car, and that includes suspension, brakes, gauges, etc. I did the cheapest, effective motor build I could... A new shirt block with drop-in pistons and head studs.

Hope it all stays together for you.

 

[Noximus]

Damn, I don't have that much into modding my car, and that includes suspension, brakes, gauges, etc. I did the cheapest, effective motor build I could... A new shirt block with drop-in pistons and head studs.

Hope it all stays together for you.

You never paid for labor ! I couldn't do the motor rebuild myself, but I did everything else on my car and sometimes with help, and I saved sooo much money. The car wouldn't be where it is now if I had paid to get everything done.